Andrew & Tamra's 818SR EM Autox Hybrid Destroked Long-Rod Build

[D Clary]

exhaust and trunk 003.JPGI epoxied an aluminum rod to the inside lip of the trunk to hold the shape.

[David]

Congrats you two! Awesome to see a husband and wife team building a car to autocross... Mary and I autocrossed our FFR for over a decade and it was an incredible experience to race a car built with your own hands. Best of luck, looking forward to following your build!

David

[Hindsight]

I can't remember if you solved your fuel filler neck issue but having just installed mine today, I took some pics for you so you can compare yours to mine. Mine appears that it will align just fine:

[Tamra]

Thanks Hindsight. Andrew was able to bend a brake line clip out of the way, and we can now force it to line up without too much pressure. It's still not great. Perhaps we didn't get the filler neck into the hose as much, maybe we changed the angle slightly when we put the pads under the fuel tank (squeak reduction), or perhaps the design changed a little (because yours looks waaaay better, although the tubing looks the same). Either way, it will be fine for inspection, and then we'll swap to the front fuel cell.

[Hindsight]

Glad you got it sorted. Did you put pads under the tank because there WAS squeaking, or because you figured there might be? I was on the fence about it and am hoping I get away without it.

[Tamra]

Only because we figured it might squeak (when we wiggled it by hand it was squeaky). Plus it is a pain to remove, so we didn't want to have to go back and touch it again. So much for that though... since we are going to get rid of the tank entirely lol.

[Tamra]

Body panel fitting is coming along. When we put the headlights in the buckets, nothing fit anymore.

We used a heat gun and changed the shape of the plastic buckets a bit to get the headlights to sit further down. That took awhile, but we got them fairly good. Still have some gaps along the edges, but we'll likely fill them with rubber strip or silicone. I'm thinking Bobncincy's method would have been easier to start with in hindsight, but we got it anyhow.


We also had to do some fairly severe trimming to the bumper. Even if our AWIC wouldn't have been there, it still would have required fitting. If you look in the manual, although they don't mention it, their bumper is trimmed too.



Another thing not mentioned, but pictured in the manual, is that they trimmed the fender tabs to fit over the headlights a little better. We did the same and it did help.


We are pretty happy with the fitment. Wish the bumper would sit a little bit more flush, but it's pretty good as is.



We will have to space up the fenders near the windshield to meet the hood. It's almost like the hood needs to sit 3 or 4" past the bumper (buck teeth anyone?). However, with spacing the fenders up to meet the hood, it looks pretty good, and they still (barely) reach the side sails.

Also, our headlight support is currently sitting on top of the tabs (the flange part of the bumper is lifting it up 1/2"), so we will have to trim the tabs (hopefully that doesn't mess up the alignment too much, but if it does we'll space it up too). We will also have to add an aluminum bar to attach the front of the bumper to, as it does not reach the radiator support (similar to everyone else's build thread we've read through).

The front end has not been fun, but we are getting ready to start fastening things permanently this week.

[Hindsight]

Looking nice, and that's a great idea on using a heat gun on the headlight buckets! I will have to try that if I make it that far in my build

I see some duct tape sealing off your AWIC exchanger to your radiator. Let me know if you come up with a more permanent solution because I keep wondering what I'm going to use there. There was a thread awhile back where someone mentioned EPP foam from McMaster.

[Tamra]

Looking nice, and that's a great idea on using a heat gun on the headlight buckets! I will have to try that if I make it that far in my build

I see some duct tape sealing off your AWIC exchanger to your radiator. Let me know if you come up with a more permanent solution because I keep wondering what I'm going to use there. There was a thread awhile back where someone mentioned EPP foam from McMaster.

IF you get that point? I have no doubt that you will

haha yes, we do have duct tape currently. It's effective, but not permanent. Our #1 priority right now is getting it to the DMV to get registered, so we'll worry about permanent air ducting afterward. I think Andrew has some ideas...

[TrickyPete]

I tried the heat gun and quickly stopped before I got too carried away. It melts it quick and me being a noob with a heat gun would have completely ruined them if I didn't stop. Haha

[Tamra]

We attached the fenders to the side sails with rivnuts, bolted the headlights to the bumper/buckets, bolted the bumper/headlights to the frame, bolted on the hood pin brackets, and bolted the fenders to the outside edge of the bumper. Things are going together nicely (with some effort)!

So far we've had to trim around the eyelids of the fenders, where they were hitting the top of the headlight (and the bottom of the headlights will need some silicone fill to smooth out the inconsistent gaps). We have also smoothed out the roughness between the fender and the outer bumper connection to get an even connection point, trimmed the flanges very aggressively on the fender/bumper near the tire, and trimmed the flanges on the fenders near the windshield frame, and a little bit near the point of the hood to get them to look the same on both sides.

Next up are riveting the fenders to the hood pin brackets, bolting the fenders to the bumper (point near radiator), fenders to frame near the windshield, the front of the nose to the radiator frame (picked up some L bracket aluminum we're going to use), and then the hood. Then the front end will be done! After registration, we will be cleaning up the rough edges a bit, and later doing a wrap, but for now we're doing our best to ignore them.

Here are a few photos. Let us know if you see anything to be concerned about, or have any recommendations.

[Tamra]

Also, a huge thank you to Metros for sending us a Walbro fuel pump!!!

[RM1SepEx]

Tamra, your fenders are sitting very high at the front edge where they meet the nose piece, your headlight buckets are too high in the front. I need to clean up the interfane area, I added gel coat and will sand and polish it to match the nose...

P1120507 - Copy.JPG

[Tamra]

The fenders aren't bolted down yet, that's just where they sit naturally over the rubber trim on the headlights. With slight pressure they sit relatively flush (not perfect, but hey, it is a race car. Our goal is for it to not look like a kit car, but we also don't need it to look like a show car either).

I played with the headlights a bit and this was where they sat best with the best compromise of headlight gaps and fender/bumper/hood meetup. It is a big challenge.

Your car is looking fantastic, btw!!

[Mechie3]

My only recommendation is to use some 10-32 rivnuts and screws to hold things in place instead of having to drill out rivets all the time. My fenders/front bumper have been on and off so many times all ready.

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks for the compliments Tamra, like Craig everything has been on and off so many times, I riv nut or tap the frame everywhere that I can... I use 10-24 riv nuts and tap 10-32 in the frame since the walls are thin

right now I'm frustrated, my engine has developed a knock and my John Deere tractor wont start, solenoid not kicking in and its UNDER the freaking Onan twin engine. The damn lawn needs to be mowed yesterday... Picking up a parts mower to have an extra deck tomorrow AM. Looks like the snow blower is coming off the other tractor.

I can't keep up!

[Tamra]

Your engine developed a knock?!?!?!?!?!? What happened?? I hope it's nothing major... but that doesn't sound good.

Good advice on the rivnuts. We'll make sure to do that on the lower part of the bumper and in as many places as we can, especially since we're planning on taking off the body right after inspection to do our fuel tank...

Also, I spoke with the DMV today to get some more information on our soon approaching inspection. Thankfully the CT DMV does not require an appointment, so it's just pressure on us to get there soon.

A few things we will need to add:

• We will need a red reflector on the sides of the rear (stick on is fine, must be red).
• We need a bumper on both ends of the car. The bumper can be bolted on, and needs to extend to within 6 inches of the sides of the car (that could be a challenge in the front). It needs to be between 16-22" off the ground. It should be able to survive a 2.5-5mph impact (they'd better not plan on testing that one!).
• They will need to see the serial numbers for both the transmission and the engine... whoops, painted over the transmission sticker. We'll have to figure that one out. The engine is engraved.
• We have it in writing (email) that our KPH dash will pass. Hopefully that will hold true.
• The guy said not having FMVSS 209 certified seat belts is one of the top reasons he has to fail cars. We purchased our $$ Schroth ones specifically for this reason.

Hopefully we have been checking the list thoroughly enough. The inspection department sounded nice and they're excited to see the 818. The guy looked up photos online while we were on the phone, and he went over things he could see that our car would need (red reflectors for example). Hopefully we will be prepared enough and pass the first try.

Andrew has to work a lot this weekend on a big project at work... so I'm going solo. Heading to the garage now. Hope I don't mess anything up!

[Tamra]

Can someone help me with this please?

It seems like the manual shows that there should be a tab on our rear bumper to attach the hood pin through, but we don't have anything like that. I didn't see anything in the manual revisions about it. How does the rear deck lid hood pin attach?

[RM1SepEx]

I was just at fellow builder TrickyPete's and his is missing the tab too. I made my own out of 1/8 aluminum stock and mounted them to the side panels vs. the rear clip.

The reflectors should be in your kit, red rectangles IIRC

[Scargo]

I think FFR destroyed all the tabs trying to make that photo of someone using an auger bit on fiberglass. Just a hunch. I don't have tabs. I am no help...

[Tamra]

Thanks so much, Dan and Glyn (mostly LOL @ Glyn, you have a point). We'll make a bracket.

Today I got the front end fully buttoned down, with the exception of the hood (wanted to wait on hood pins until Andrew could help), the side sails are riveted (we will rivnut them the next time they come off), and the rear bumper is fully bolted on as well. I did have to file the engine cover around the roll bar to make it fit better, and a friend came over and helped cut the L bracket to space the front bumper from the radiator frame. We used rivnuts to attach the bumper to the L-bracket, and bolted the L-bracket to the frame. Our friend Tim also came over and helped me out for part of the afternoon, and when Andrew got home around 7, we all went out and stuffed ourselves with good sushi.

Andrew is back for working on it tomorrow. I'm pretty proud of myself for A) not messing anything up and B) actually accomplishing stuff on my own last night and today. I'm also glad we had friends that came over to help me out this afternoon. Progress + good friends + good sushi = great day.

[Tamra]

Time lapse of body panels!

[Tamra]

Front end body panels are done!



Took a little trimming on the windshield side of the hood edges to get them to lie flat. The windshield is ~33.5" from the roll bar at the center point.


Our offset overhead light makes the gaps on left vs right look different from the shadow, but they are actually pretty even on both sides.


We're not quite as happy with the fitment of the driver side fender/hood/bumper. The fender needs to be clearanced a little more on the top of the eyelid, where it's touching the headlight, and preventing the fender from getting quite as close to the hood as we'd like. When the panels come back off for the fuel tank we'll do that. It's more noticeable in person. In the meantime, this is our "B" graded side.


This is the side we are happier with.


The hood is relatively flush, and we haven't clearanced it yet for the button head screws on the fenders, so they're holding it up a touch. We're going to shave it down a bit and notch near the bolts so it will sit even more flush.


Front shot:



Items left before taking the trip to the DMV:

• Create and bolt in front and rear bumpers, 16-22" off the ground, going to within 6" of either side of the car, capable of (looking like) they can withstand 2-5mph impact.
• Wire in headlights/horns
• Windshield wipers (will space up hood so we don't have to cut)
• Attach rear decklid
• Attach rear engine cover
• Rear wiring for tail lights/reverse lights
• Shift exhaust away from tail lights, and reweld exit. Also swap bullet muffler with catalytic converter.
• Assemble and attach doors & mirrors
• Create custom center console
• E-brake
• New tires

[flynntuna]

Can someone help me with this please?

It seems like the manual shows that there should be a tab on our rear bumper to attach the hood pin through, but we don't have anything like that. I didn't see anything in the manual revisions about it. How does the rear deck lid hood pin attach?

This is what Wayne did on his build. Pg 24 on his build.

[Buzz Skyline]

You're better off without the tab. It's flimsy and now that I followed the manual's directions, I wish I had just gone with Wayne's approach to begin with.

BTW, you must be about to start on the doors. Ditch the manual and follow Wayne's instructions, especially the parts about mounting the striker support and the door stops. Don't ask me why I know.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ht=wayne+doors

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Front end body panels are done!


Front shot:



Items left before taking the trip to the DMV:

• Create and bolt in front and rear bumpers, 16-22" off the ground, going to within 6" of either side of the car, capable of (looking like) they can withstand 2-5mph impact.
• Wire in headlights/horns
• Windshield wipers (will space up hood so we don't have to cut)
• Attach rear decklid
• Attach rear engine cover
• Rear wiring for tail lights/reverse lights
• Shift exhaust away from tail lights, and reweld exit. Also swap bullet muffler with catalytic converter.
• Assemble and attach doors & mirrors
• Create custom center console
• E-brake
• New tires

Great job Andrew and Tamra,
Michael and I have a very comparable list.
Bob

[Scargo]

The bodywork is looking quite nice! I's some kinda fun, dirty work, isn't it? Any pokes from the FG?
When I fitted the front-end I took off about a quarter inch from the downturned lip that runs down each side of the hood. I attached a guide on the jig saw and trimmed it to sit flush with the fenders. Have you done that or considered it?

[Tamra]

Thanks for the photos and links Flynntuna and Buzz Skyline!

Bob, we'll race you ;p

Glyn, yes, that is exactly what we plan on doing. The lip isn't even notched for the button head screws yet, so it's sitting a little higher than it will be. It won't change the hood pins though, so we're not stressed about it.

[C.Plavan]

I found it better to not follow the manual at all when it came to the body. The manual paints a "Perfect world".

[Frank818]

I found it better to not follow the manual at all when it came to the body.

At all times for me.

Tamra, what are you using when you trim panels? Sand paper?

[Tamra]

A flat edge file, a round file, and an angle grinder. We also have an air body saw (don't get the HF one) and a jig saw. We also used a step drill for the hood pins and the radiused corners (drills MUCH cleaner with less damage to the gel coat).

[Frank818]

Tnx for that. So I guess I work things out with my Dremel, I have everything to cut as well.

Dremel-8200-Cordless-Rotary-Tool.jpg

[Scargo]

This is the sweetest tool you will ever come across for cutting the fiberglass. It's almost like wielding a laser gun that slices through the body.
Ingersoll Rand 529 Low Vibration Reciprocating Air Saw. This and a good 24 tooth blade.

41i0fmrSzZL.jpg

[Martin]

Tnx for that. So I guess I work things out with my Dremel, I have everything to cut as well.

Dremel-8200-Cordless-Rotary-Tool.jpg

One thing that struck me when Mark Dougherty came over to the UK to help out, he said the 240v dremels in the UK were a more useful than the ones in the US. I'd never thought about it, but my dremel does get some abuse and it seems to come through ok even on the long tough jobs. He said the US dremels wouldn't have done half the job the 240v did.

Martin

[Hindsight]

This is the sweetest tool you will ever come across for cutting the fiberglass. It's almost like wielding a laser gun that slices through the body.
Ingersoll Rand 529 Low Vibration Reciprocating Air Saw. This and a good 24 tooth blade.

41i0fmrSzZL.jpg

Great, thanks. Another tool to add to my wish list

[K3LAG]

Great, thanks. Another tool to add to my wish list

I bought one a couple of months ago. One of the coolest tools for this project I've bought. Well worth the investment.

Larry

[Tamra]

We are all loaded up for Wicked Big Meet! Anyone else coming out tomorrow?

Despite borrowing Glyn's super nice race car trailer, we had quite the time of getting it loaded up. Our front bumper is about 3.75" off the ground right now... maybe we should raise that up. There was no way we were loading up forwards, and even by backing on we had maybe 1/2" before the front bumper would have scraped.



We screwed a lot of boards together:


For the record, S2000 car covers are nearly a perfect fit:



A few things we finished up the last few days. Mixed the FFR console with a custom top piece that Andrew made, since our shifter was relocated.


Installed the gas filler, permanently:



Good night all and hope to see some 818 builders/owners tomorrow!

[Scargo]

Should have thought to give you my extension ramps. I have same issue with the STi. See ya there!

[Tamra]

Do they fit in your car??? Can you bring them with you? lol

Although we won't have them for getting Bug off the trailer this morning, we'd love to have them for the next two times!!

[Hindsight]

The event sounds like fun. If you have time, I'd love to see some event pics!