Cool pictures.
Hope this is enough for you. I'm assuming these are all ran in series? Any downsides to having that length of oil lines? (Other than weight of course) Will it affect oil pressures?
Visit our community sponsor
Cool pictures.
Hope this is enough for you. I'm assuming these are all ran in series? Any downsides to having that length of oil lines? (Other than weight of course) Will it affect oil pressures?
__________________________________________________ _____________
That man is no fool, who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose__________________________________________________ _____________
What thermostat are you planning on running now? Just a std 160 or something fancier?
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Just a 154 degree Mishimoto Racing one. I'm not expecting miracles as no one should when replacing a thermostat, but it will help the engine oil heat exchanger for a bit :/ . Better than the 172 degree one. I would not put a lower T-stat in a street car, but a race car with constant revving, and higher temps wont hurt (not stop and go).
I also found out my primary fan #1 fuse was blown when I filled the coolant system (I hotwired the second fan to help with IC HE). That would explain the creeping coolant temps last practice, I thought it was the 105 degree ambient outside temp.... Thats fixed. I used the Airlift coolant filling vacuum tool. I'm very impressed with it. It worked awesome on a fully drained coolant system.
I also uncapped the passenger side radiator port (and took bolt out since I tapped it earlier) and ran a 5/16th hose back to the degas tank. It's pretty easy to do when you have an R with a cage, it's a straight shot. I tee'd it in with a 5/16th, 3 port adapter to Wayne's coolant mod hose, then to the degas tank. This is the first time I am confident there are no air pockets in the system. The Airlift, Wayne's mod, and the new hose run from radiator made the burping process much less of a chore without any surprises.
Both front oil coolers are ducted and working well. No leaks. We will find out Friday if this was a waste of time or not.
One thing else I'm going to need to do is drill some vent holes on the top of the passenger door. The oil lines that I have running through them need some ventilation, it gets hot in that enclosed door space.
Last edited by C.Plavan; 07-08-2015 at 09:27 AM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Looks great. I hope everything goes well this Friday. Good luck.
I cant wait to hear the results. Stoked you found the blown fan fuse.
All the best!
__________________________________________________ _____________
That man is no fool, who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose__________________________________________________ _____________
T-minus 20 min- a nice 80 degrees today.
http://imgur.com/G43YTRl
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
looks great.
May your lap and oil temps be low.
just got a turboner from that picture.
be cool.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Ditto be cool.
Don't know if it's Comic-Con being in town or what but the first thing I thought of when I saw the umbrella in the car was what is Dark Helmet doing in the car? :rolleyes
__________________________________________________ _____________
That man is no fool, who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose__________________________________________________ _____________
Alright fella's. I think I'm done with this car. I like racing better that wrenching. Same issues. I'll sell it complete, or as a roller. Make reasonable offers. Stress reasonable. The car handles like a dream- I was passing Porsche cup cars again.
The Good Ole' reliable Porsche is coming out of retirement.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Oh crap. That really sucks like hell. So sorry about that. Hopefully she goes in other good hands.
Which Porsche is coming out of retirement? Would be nice seeing a GT3 RS 4.0.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Oh man, this doesn't seem real! You've done everything imaginable. (over kill some would say) From what you've put in the car you would think you'd have problems getting to temperature.
Any new video?
30 minutes to reach the danger zone is much longer than before, right? Some have argued it's the location of the temp sensor. But changing the amount of time it took to reach the danger zone would prove that sensor location isn't dictating temp readings. I guess that's only with everything else being equal (ambient temp).
After second thought, I think it's worth pursuing investigation. I would not let go, I would not accept being beaten by one car problem I can't find/fix.
Let's try thinking out of the box, I have a few ideas, some may be costly, but if they are winners, I personally would do it. But it's up to you of course, it's your car. It's just that I think it's worth it, you've put so much time on it, everything runs fine and it's a blast to drive, it's just that one thing to fix.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP
FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ
FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ
FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's
FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"
US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)
I'm still baffled that you have these problems while quite a few tracked subarus don't. Sorry to bear of your troubles.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
Did he ever change the sensor?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Sensor is fine guys. Repeat: sensor is fine. It's something else.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
This is what I was thinking.
The track Subarus here in Aotearoa don't have that much real estate in the oil cooling department. it has to be something else.
Please don't throw in the towel on this car. surely its worth getting it sorted after all that work.
Great to hear that it handles like a beast.
__________________________________________________ _____________
That man is no fool, who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose__________________________________________________ _____________
IMHO, you need more data. Temp before and after each cooler. If the cooler efficiencies are within proper range, there's something wrong with the engine... Either clearances, or you need to play around with oil viscosity. Don't give up.
818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
Delivered: 18 November 2013
Go Karted: 29 December 2013
Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
Finished: NEVER!
341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM
__________________________________________________ _____________
That man is no fool, who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose__________________________________________________ _____________
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
The motor came from AJW. They never called me back when I asked about bearings ect. I'm guessing the bearings are stock for a 2013 sti block. Oil pump is stock. forged pistons, rods.
I think it is ECU related. It ran fine with the oil temp a 220 for 30 min, then if feels like there is a "timer" on the motor, after a certain amount of time, it starts to lose power and the oil temp starts climbing. This time it started loosing power, the oil temp was still fine for a bit unlike before, then I let off and started cruising to come in, and the oil temp started rising. Could be fuel getting warm too.
I'm just tired of throwing money at this car. I have other things I want to do/build. I'm still not sold on the safety of an open top car either (especially the R is stock form). I'm thinking $25k as a roller complete with everything without the engine. I'll include everything else- iWire harness for 2006 wrx, Legacy GT trans with LSD (Modena)) Element tuning Dry sump, fire system, Fuel Safe fuel cell, AWIC, 2 complete sets of Team Dynamic racing wheels (one with brand new never used Hoosier A7's) and all the other "new" stuff since my car was a non donor build. All you need to do is throw your engine in. If you want the complete car with motor $29K (Tial External Wastegate, Blouch DOM 1.5.). Comes with NASA ST2 logbook and 2015 Annual Tech sticker.
I also have an extra Legacy GT trans for a spare.
Last edited by C.Plavan; 07-11-2015 at 09:38 AM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
FFR should pick this up and put their team behind it. It would be a great place for them to start from.
I understand your frustration and need to move on. I'm sorry to see you in this pickle.
The only thing I can think of is to move the oil tank to the front of the car, away from the engine bay.
I cancelled my R order and year ago but your car is tempting and it's not that far away for me to drive down with my trailer. Unfortunately I bought a California 2008 Spec B that was someone else's 3 year headache, and now it's my headache. Once the Spec B is fixed and sold I will consider taking on this problem child if you still have it.
BTW, I used to race with Zack, the Corvette you match times with. He's a great guy. He co-drove my Legacy in an enduro with me last year. Please tell him Gator says hello!
Don't hate on Corvettes, the ones that race don't wear gold chains and pinkie rings!
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
Hi Chad,
I know you are getting lot of advice, so I will make this short.
Is it possible the scavenge pump is not keeping up, allowing oil to build up in the block?
The crankshaft turning in a pool of oil would fell like a big power loss.
This would also take all that lost power and super heat the oil in the block. Like a water-brake dyno.
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 07-11-2015 at 11:20 AM.
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
I think air mixed into a froth causes a loss of oil pressure which should be obvious before it gets too hot.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
Metalmaker, Bob, Tamra, what oil viscosity are you running in your engines?
Chad did you ever try a XX-30 oil?
If you oil temp is going up and you water temp is constant or going down (like when you backed off to go in the pits) the heat is coming from something in your oil's path, or the oil itself is causing the problem, plain and simple. Did you ever open the engine to inspect for premature wear in any bearings?
XX-50 oil has ~twice the viscosity of XX-30 at very high temps. This isn't always a good thing. In tight tolerance bearings you can get shearing with higher viscosity. Higher temps lead to tighter tolerances.
Shearing -> Loss of lubrication -> Heat -> Even tighter tolerances -> More shearing.
Last edited by dirty kurty; 07-11-2015 at 05:11 PM. Reason: I have terrible spelling.
I'm running Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5w-40. Recommended by my Tuner ( https://turninconcepts.com/ )
I don't run nearly as hard as Chad. The hardest I have done so far is 12 autocross runs in a 1 hour period.
Bob
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Sorry things didn't work out Chad. I kind of had my doubts at the third oil cooler. I track and autocross my turbo Mustang and I can tell you there is a lot more abuse on the open track, If you have watched Chad's videos he is close to 7k all the time. Most of my time is at Sonoma where you are only at full throttle about half the time. Autcross is short bursts with a long wait. The point is that Chad is stressing everything to the max. (including Chad). I think on one hand you are right Chad, you may not need to sell it, but you need to step away from it. Race the Porsche and enjoy the rest of the Summer. Maybe some of us will catch up to you and solve some of these problems. Thanks for your effort. Is crowd funding still an option?