Craig, i got the louvers today abs they look great. What is the preferred technique to evenly bend each vane?
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Craig, i got the louvers today abs they look great. What is the preferred technique to evenly bend each vane?
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
I usually try and use my middle finger on the bottom of the vane and then my thumb on the top and push to rotate it. If the frame starts to flex too much put one side in a vice. If the other end flexes too much while in a vice clamp a small piece of wood to it then bend the vanes.
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Definitely. I'll be there Monday through weds. Likely wearing a Zero dB shirt. Just listen for the obnoxious sounding Fmods and I shouldn't be too far away.
I placed an order for the fender top louvers. Turn around is typically 1.5 weeks. I'll make a thread when they're ready. I made two sets and Chad message me this weekend so I sent him the other pair. Guess he's sticking around after all.
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Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Ok...no zooming in on these not pretty looking welds. I repurposed the FFR seat mounting brackets and made some harness mounting tabs. Two mount on the outside of the sheet metal with a hole through the cockpit aluminum to fit the bolt. A short spacer will make sure the belt doesn't rub. The other two mount outside of the tunnel aluminum but a hole will need to be made to access the bolt head.
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Awesome! I need to copy that idea.
OOOPS, I zoomed my mistake :-)
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
That's about where I welded mine too. I made mine out of 3/16 steel stock.
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
I would rather have a strong weld than a good looking one any day of the week. JMO.
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I am glad I did a search for rivnuts and it took me to this build thread. I was thinking about my future build and was thinking why isn't anyone using rivnuts for all the panels that could be removed for better access to other assemblies. I do not think needed on the firewalls?
Mechie3. If you were to do it all over again would you go to the extra work of using counter sunk rivnuts in the frame ? Also wondering if you used any rubber or foam stripping etc to seal the removable panels when installed but still easily removable. No silicone sealant for me on anything removable!!
I drilled and tapped the thicker tubes 10-32 vs rivnuts, but everything is removable, I've had to put the body on and off multiple times
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
The front firewall and much of the cockpit aluminum can be riveted in place as it doesn't need to be removed. The rear firewall and the body makes sense to be easily removable if for no other reason than to be able to inspect things (such as all those hoses that run inside the body). For the center tunnel I cut it apart (Dan's idea) and am making a separate top that bolts in. The sides are riveted in. Countersunk rivnuts would be useful in some places but not totally necessary. I'm using low profile 10-32 rivnuts that don't have much height anyways.
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Lee, I did it in 2013..
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Yeah... I'm slow, I know. When anyone asks how my build is going all I can say is "If you want to build a car fast, don't buy a house". My wife wants an epoxy floor in the garage... and 818 is still up on jackstands!
Craig actually has an earlier kit than I do, but he has better excuses for not getting on the road yet: a young child and making all those cool ZDM parts for us!
My kit's early too, health issues, life in general and my latest venture a 10KW solar panel install. I installed it with friends, bought the materials myself and trailered them 2 hrs home and saved $11,000 on the local solar installer's quote, even when he was offering a 10% discount! Just finished the wiring today, total time 49 man hours. Will be online as soon as the power company can install the double meter system for net metering. Final cost less than $2 a watt installed.
I'm getting closer, my engine has some gremlins to debug and the second body install is ongoing. Add that to Craig's parts! I may never really finish! I've started fixing jell coat voids etc in hopes of a no paint build. What a PITA
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Been a busy day. Months and months of work came to a point at a design review today. Made it through pretty well. 4 hour meeting cut down to 2. Awwww Yiss!
Anyways....here's what I've been working on for Chad since Sunday. I made the mistake of teaching my intern to run the CNC and now all he wants to do is make parts for work related projects. Makes it harder to make non work related stuff during lunch.
Being held up from underneath:
All these photos have it sitting on top so I could step back a little:
Wider view. It'll have one on both sides. I had only finished one side by last night.
Last edited by Mechie3; 07-23-2015 at 03:23 PM.
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Now that is cool and should be pretty effective!
Yeah awesome! Let's start a group buy!
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
My favorite piece you have developed... Now finish your car!!!
818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207
very cool!
I keep thinking that the coupe will need something like this to get the hot out.
__________________________________________________ _____________
That man is no fool, who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose__________________________________________________ _____________
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
As long as coupe is moving.the duct on roof should help A lot. Plus the ducts in the rear quarter glass. Overall, when the coupe is moving, it should be very well cooled. Not to mention the more streamline air vectors should probably help side vents and some lower rear bumper vents like Chad is putting in should move air better.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
It seem drawing hot engine compartment air up would be counter productive for air cooled ICs???
Sorry, this is getting off topic. ....Craig the new louvers look great. can't wait to see both of them mounted.
Fred's, unless you have a sealed duct (Hoses or full ducts like a Porsche 911 sealed off on inlets and sealed on top of intercooler) these vents would vent all of your incoming air before it got to the tmic. These would cross over the top of the FFR stock setup and all incoming air just goes right out.
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It is going to be very hot in there. If I were to go coupe I would put the intercooler up near the roof scoop, and have airflow go through a vent above the rear glass. I would box it off from engine heat and have fans suck the heat out the engine bay to limit heat soak. This should work. The tmic in stock location will heat up and inmo won't work. Remember it is direct air pressure to ic we need to achieve with limited heat soak. The wrx factory setup with stock boost and timing barely works right with thousands of hours of testing.
818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207
__________________________________________________ _____________
That man is no fool, who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose__________________________________________________ _____________
Hi Mechie, My post wasn't really a question, but a caution to air to air intercooler guys. As you probably read in several of my posts, I have completely isolated the input air side of my stock intercooler from the engine compartment. In my case, if your louvers were reversed and actually "scooped" air into my car that would help get more cold air through the intercooler. I suspect however that the area above the humps is a low pressure area and your louvers will function as you intend them to, to remove hot air from the engine compartment in general.
fred
Got some work done this weekend. Splitting some time between 818 and F500.
Welded in the last mount for the harness and got all of them primed. Will be painting them tonight. The Ebrake cover still fits, so that's good.
Made a partial rear firewall. The lower section was already covered before putting in the motor. This covers just the middle. The idea was that the left and right side sections are needed for routing hoses, wires, etc. The middle isn't used (andthe top of the middle is covered by the large thick firewall) and this prevents hoses and wires from vibrating and getting caught in the alternator belt. I need to make it thicker. it was .040" material, what I had on hand. It will pop too much. Maybe make it from .0625 or .09. I'll probably mount my ECU on it as well.
Finally finished cutting out the other hole in my hood for my larger louvers and got the trunk cutout as well (no pics).
Updated my front hinge to the latest design. Now I can put all my front sheetmetal back together.
We'll see how progress goes. Need to paint the harness mounts and then I can put 1/2 the body back on, take a pic, and send it all off to register the car (no inspection ). Have a two day autocross this weekend and took apart the front suspension on the F500 to do some work. Needs new ball joints, rubber pucks, turning down the rotors, already changed the clutch belt and need some carb work too. Next week I'm gone for ANSYS training so that'll slow stuff down.
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I like your floor harness mounts and will be copying :-) Also, I use ANSYS regularly in case you have any questions feel free to shoot me an email.
I used ANSYS back in college before it was a solidworks plugin. It's funny, I took the STR/Explicit training, but not the base training. ha!
Almost forgot, I made a front AWIC core mount template yesterday and a template for mounting the AWIC pump as well.
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Great work as always! I really like the rear hump louvers, and IMO they look better mounted on top.
Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
818 SRX - #91
Arrived 01/02/2014
First Start 10/31/2016
First Drive 05/22/2017
Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818
True, natural exit.
The option I prefer for now is what Porsche does, an air sensor in the engine bay and when it goes over a certain temp, it triggers fans to run and get the hot air out, on an after-run.
In fact, I have a plan for after-run cooling, using some VW stuff and maybe Porsche. I fear heat soak a LOT, so I'll go overkill on that.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Made the bracket for the bosch pump last night. It's just a simple piece that uses two of the frozenboost pump mounts (simple sheet metal bracket, rubber isolators, and Tbolt clamp) and allows them to hang off the side of the frame rail so I can get the best positioning for the hoses.
Humble cardboard beginnings:
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Very nice! I hope you make this part available to us.