I don't think the broken A/C adjuster is the problem. I think I broke it after the track session when I tried to adjust the belt tighter but forgot to loosen the lock nut on the arm. It's a plastic and doesn't withstand much of that.
Bob, I can assure you it doesn't need to spin faster. Here's why: On Chad and my systems we use the stock crank pulley (5.5"). The pump pulley is 4", so we are already running the pump at 137% faster than crank. I thought "Eureka!" In all the literature the pump is supposed to run at 50% of crank, more than 5,000 rpm causes cavititation. Every image you see on the pump manufacturers websites show the crank pulley half the size of the pump pulley.
Well it turns out that doesn't apply to scavenge only systems, only pressure systems. The scavenge only can be spun at super high speeds and it's ok. I got that straight from John, the owner of Aviaid pumps. He says he's sold lots of pumps to Phil for the Element systems and never seen our problem.
So if anything the pump could possibly use a larger pulley to slow it down. A 6" would slow it down to 95% crank speed.
I went back and pulled a bunch of logs pre and post dry sump, which also is pre and post new shortblock/oem oil pump. I only have one log with the new shortblock and the wet sump:
The ORANGE lines are RPM, the BLUE lines are Oil Pressure, the Red Line is Oil Temperature.
Chronologically
May 2014, Wet Sump, 20 minute race in Spokane. Oil never goes over 186 degrees, oil pressure is flat 60-90 psi:
Sept 2014, wet sump, 3 laps in a 60 minute enduro at The Ridge. Each line is one of three laps:
June 2015, New Shortblock, New Oil Pump, Wet Sump. The first indication that my oil pressures are too high. After a warm up I hit the track and the oil pressures are too high for warm oil. Session cut short when vacuum line comes off EWG:
July 2015, DYNO session, New Dry Sump. Oil pressure is too high but oil temps don't climb because WOT is so short before long idle sessions during tuning:
And finally the track test as in the above post, but this one has RPM on it. Long warm up, normal oil pressures, but as soon as I hit the track with hot oil the pressures go too high and and the temps start climbing:
The problem with high oil pressures: Not only can it blow out seals and other damage, but the Subaru OEM Oil Pump Bypass opens at 95 PSI. That causes the same sample of oil to spin around and around in the pump, which according to John at Aviaid (who sent me down this course of investigation) that heats the crap out of the oil:
Conclusion: For some reason I'm having excessive oil pressures, causing the bypass to open, causing the oil to heat up. The oil is probably also cavitating because it keeps getting spun around and around in the pump.
Solution: New OEM Pump? Does it matter if I use a 10, 11, or 12 mm pump? Should I try an OEM pump modified for "high volume" or will that make it worse? I need your help!
The other solution is to add a pressure stage to the pump, which also means a new crank pulley and crank pulley mandrel and other bits like a remote oil filter.....and more $$$.