Anyone know the part numbers of the pedals to use?
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Anyone know the part numbers of the pedals to use?
wilwood 2 pedal firewall attach (340-11295)
And
wilwood remote brake bias adjuster (340-4990)
Is what I used. You can also source form FFR.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
If it's the same as the GTM there's a set on the other forum for sale.
Wilwoods are nice, but not needed. I'm running the stock pedals on mine without any issues while racing.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
For me the Wilwood or Tilton pedal assembly offer a few advantages:
Lighter, when using aftermarket calipers fine tune the master size and brake bias adjustment with the balance bar.
Just my opinion.
We are using over hung, reverse mount, not fire wall mount as the tube frame is stronger than the firewall. It's also easy to adjust and plumb the balance bar. IMG_0535.JPG
Way lighter, but some welding required. undo the lines, pull 4 bolts and the complete assemble comes out the top, which is great for changing master sizes.
We are using over hung, reverse mount, not fire wall mount as the tube frame is stronger than the firewall. It's also easy to adjust and plumb the balance bar. IMG_0535.JPG
Way lighter, but some welding required. undo the lines, pull 4 bolts and the complete assemble comes out the top, which is great for changing master sizes.
I am using the Tilton floor mount TIL-72-604 with TIL 72-750 and 812 cylinders. A note of caution though. It is very tight for a 5-10 foot person without a lot of work. My install is very custom. For a standard front suspension you would be several inches father back.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
I ordered this OBP reverse master cylinder pedal set last week.
OBP007PRC.jpg
I like the feel of floor mounted pedals. With the pivot near your heel there isn't as much sliding between your foot and the pedal.
The front cylinder setup solves the MC clearance issue. A heel plate covers the MCs and lines.
Scargo,
Your LCAs are looking good. Have you figured out the pick up points for the UCA yet?
Last edited by DanielsDM; 01-18-2016 at 01:50 PM.
818R Build date 10/31/15
It is, in essence, where they are in this post. To have the mounting plate (which accepts adjustable slugs) square it is perhaps a quarter inch proud of the frame in the front and recessed into the frame in the rear. I believe I can share the geometry I created in http://www.vsusp.com/ if anyone wants it. I am using a few of the FFR provided upper arm pieces but have gone to a Howe racing ball-joint.
Again, if I've left out something that someone is interested in let me know. I hope to resume work on it in a week. Currently I am trying to get my STi track car out of the garage. Tranny work has held me up.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
TE 72-608
Tilton Dual Pedal Assy, 5 - 6.2 Ratio, Overhung Mt, Aluminum
Thanks for the info. When are you going to get it on track? Still planning to make it to the 25 Hour this year?
818R Build date 10/31/15
We are testing next weekend at Portland, then a sept 13th for an 8hr test at the Ridge. We are still planning to do the 8 hr Portland enduro as a test for the 25hr this year.