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Been a while since I updated this. I've been gone quite a bit, but have been able to make some progress over the holidays.
I was able to get Wayne's AWIC installed and operational:
I was going to try and make the OEM center console work, but I just couldn't make it line up with the FFR center console that attaches to the dash. I think it can be done, I just didn't have the time/patience to mess with it any further:
So I decided to just go with the old FFR center console, which I modified so it doesn't jut out so far into the passenger foot well. I got everything mounted and ended carpeting everything. I had leftover carpet so I decided to carpet the center console as well. It turned out ok. Not show quality, but good enough for a track car:
Today I spent some time working on the racing harness mounting. For the mounts, I used some 90 deg brackets I got from Jegs. I also bolted the shoulder harness to the frame. I know wrapping is better, but I figured this would be a good compromise vs trying to figure out how to cut through 2 firewalls. I'm pretty happy with the results, just want to check with you guys to make sure it's correct and safe:
Thanks!
In your initial post you said you wanted "a somewhat street able car." The five-point harness may be illegal because many, if not most, are not DOT certified. Look at the harness label and it will likely state "for off road use only" and/or "not DOT approved for passenger car use".
I know that if you don't have roll-over protection (which all 818's do have) you should not use a racing harness. You may need to find some approved belts for inspection purposes. There is also the issue that if you were to be in a serious crash, an untrained person might not know how to release a racing harness. I think there is a law/requirement that the release button be red.
I may not have all this right since this is a kit car and it seems kit cars are in a different category in some states. If you care, I think you should see what your state requires to pass inspection. Perhaps others, like Wayne Presley or FFR know the whole story.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
I think the only harness that is DOT marked are the Schroth ASM 4 pt harnesses. There's also a requirement for push button release. Cam lock release are not legal for the street. That said, I'm running 6 pt cam lock release because Indiana has no inspections so we can get away with things others can't.
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Each state has different requirements on types of belts. For production cars the push button must be red, and the belts must pass certain crash testing requirements. In the kit car low production side things change a bit. For example in RI my inspector was happy with the harnesses and my car is emissions exempt. I do not need a cat or exhaust but guns state might be different so he should contact inspection and ask the right people.
818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207
Ct. requires original type (labeled) street belts. I have installed my Subie belts for inspection, will change to 6 point camlock later.
I have the same harness and will be registering with it. Erik used the same in his electric 818 and it's tagged in CA... but as mentioned every state is different.
I'm also interested in the trade-off between bolting and wrapping at the frame tube for the shoulder mounts. Like Guns, I'd prefer not to cut the firewall to wrap and use the proper hardware I have for a bolt on attachment. Any opinioms?
Really nice interior!
How did you finish underneath the dash, under the cluster?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Thanks for the inputs guys. Luckily, there are no inspections in SC so I should be ok.
wleehendrick, I'm no expert, but everything else is bolted in, so my thought process is that the harnesses shouldn't really be any different.
Frank, not sure exactly what you're asking, but didn't really do anything under the cluster. As you can see, there are still some visible wires that I may try and hide a bit better.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
I'll just use this opportunity to ask a related question: Isn't it weakening the frame significantly to drill upwards of half-inch diameter holes in it? I started this thread "Hazards of weakening the frame by drilling holes?" in the 818R Discussions area to discuss it and not muck up GUNS thread any more.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
I'm pretty sure you need to fit a spacer inside the tube so the bolt is supported and not "squeezing" the hollow tube. There's a name for it, but it eludes me.
Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
818 SRX - #91
Arrived 01/02/2014
First Start 10/31/2016
First Drive 05/22/2017
Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818
Man, it's been a while since I've updated this. I've been working a lot and just had my first kid, so I've been a bit busy.
With that being said, I have been able to get some work done on the 818. I installed the under battery and under seat aluminum a well as some of the front splash guards. I'm saving the nose aluminum and rear fender wells for when the body is back on to see how it's all suppose to fit. The under seat aluminum was a little difficult due to all of the bolt heads for the seat brackets and harness mounts. It turned out ok, but looks a little but like swiss cheese. Oh well, good enough. I coated these parts in 3M underbody spray, which is awesome but doesn't last very long.
The car now back off the lift and I started re-mounting the body, hopefully for the last time! I'm hoping that it all goes back on pretty easy since I already pre-fit it. We'll see!
Been working on the car when I have time. I started getting the body back on and for the most part it's lining up like it did the first time I fit it, but it still requires some adjustment. Like my above post said, I was waiting to get the body back on before I did much more with the splash guards, which I think is a good call. Above is the most I'd do with the body off, the rest you need the body on to see how it all lines up. I got the front passenger side done today and it turned out pretty good. I have the old front tray aluminum that I'm not sure is going to work. I'll see if the splitter will be enough or not.
Here's how I recommend installing the front splash guards. With the bumper installed, loosely clamp the aluminum pieces where they fit the best:
Disconnect swaybar link and drill:
I covered mine in a 3M rubberized underbody spray. This stuff is nice, but expensive and doesn't go very far.. Either way, here is the final result:
I'll add some bulb seal to finish it off.
Additionally I was able to install my rear deck lid. Once installed I discovered that the hood pins provided are too tall and don't provide the required "resistance" to keep it closed. I ordered these from Jegs that are a little bit shorter and should be perfect.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Allstar+Perfor...18507/10002/-1
The original:
The ones from Jegs:
So the other thing...the car started running like crap. I don't know what happened, but all of sudden I'm getting misfires on all cylinders. My gut instinct is that the gas from the first start went bad, because nothing has changed since then. It was about 4 gallons that I ran mostly dry and I have since put another 5 in with 2 bottles of injector cleaner to see if it clears. Nothing. I haven't pulled the plugs yet, but I'm wondering if it was bad gas if it potentially fouled the plugs? Any other things to look for?
Check your battery voltage when running. Should be a little above 14 volts.
Bob
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
As usual, I've been working on the car when I can.
I got the rear splash guards mounted. The only questions I have is at the rear, there's a portion that flanges out and interferes w/ the tires. I feel like I should just trim this, but don't want to if it's meant for something else that I haven't gotten to yet.
Is this the correct way for the dash to meet the windshield frame or does the dash go above the frame?
I'm digging this look, I might just leave it like this
The dash goes above the frame. It kind of wedges in between the glass and frame.
Larry
you have the inner fenders on the wrong side the edge should go back and bolt to the bumper
You put the piece that wraps the wheel on the wrong side. Just bend the triangle piece sticking out 180 degrees and attach it to the rear clip
guns fender.jpg
P1120095.JPG
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Looking good
818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207
Finally got some time to get some work done on the car. I had the door panels upholstered locally and I'm pretty happy how they turned out. They were a bit of a PITA to fit since the vinyl and padding through some of my initial fitments off, but I was able to make it work:
I also took it for a drive for the first time with the body on. It didn't catch on fire and nothing fell off, so I'm calling it a success. With that said, it's still missing pretty bad and I think I need to bed in my brake beds better. Also, my front right tire is rubbing the splash guard. I think the engine missing issue is a simple ignition issue, but who knows.
Moving forward, I need to find someone to install the windshield (harder than I anticipated). Fix the drivability issues and get it registered! After that I need to get the exhaust fabricated and work on fine tuning the body work. Part of the body stuff includes installing the "carbon fiber" aero pieces. I'm one of the luck few who bought the 1st gen pieces. My god they are terrible! I'm hoping it will look better installed, but I almost don't want to put these on the car. Here's my splitter:
^ That last pic literally has a piece of plastic or something embedded in it. WTF?
Don't install it. Ask for new ones.
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I would include the pictures and several of them at that. Those are ridiculous for the money you paid.
Glad to see you back.
I shipped my back for a refund shortly after they arrived. I bought the side skirts and diffuser again when they had them listed in the clearance section for $100 per skirts and diffuser. They arrived worse than the ones i shipped back.
It was for the first rendition. I heard they have outsources the new carbon fiber parts which do indeed appear to be much better in quality.
I got new side skirts (gen 2) when I sent pics of all the bubbles in it. I also got a new diffuser (gen 1) because mine had a 1/4" strip going across of a non woven section. I didn't focus on gen 2 is better so I want it but rather the gen 1 parts are defective even by gen 1 standards.
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This reminds me of the infamous fly embedded into the fiberglass on a Ducati fuel tank.
My splitter, diffuser, and side skirts all looked that bad. When I pre-ordered my kit they claimed they were pure carbon fiber. I inquired about replacements and was told tough luck.
My spoiler is riveted on and has seen sustained 130-140 MPH. I plan to take mine off for paint. If I were mounting it permanently I would add some type of adhesive.
Looking good Guns, get that garage cleaned up!
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Well I heard back from FFR and they basically told me to pound sand. Their response was to paint the underside to fix the transparency and to wet sand the bubbles away. I wouldn't be upset if the quality was decent, but these things are just awful and FFR should be ashamed that they took money from people for this product. I guess I'll try and make the best out of them.
Yea, I can't wait to get this thing to a point where I can focus some time on cleaning up the garage. I just have so much stuff that I'm not sure what to do with yet. I have a lot of aluminum that I'm not sure I need, but don't want to get rid of yet.
I'm guessing I shouldn't post pics of my garage then. Looks like a few cars blew up.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
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If you paint the bottom it does help.
Nolan
65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032
818 s (with r windscreen ) 350 rwhp. Registered and street legal (SOLD)
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress