Anybody have them installed yet? Tips and tricks?
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Anybody have them installed yet? Tips and tricks?
Waiting for lenses before I install mine.
Lenses are BOed.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
I wouldn't bother waiting as those can be installed after everything else.
Ya I know that they can be installed afterward but its so pointless for me to install the headlights and not drive the care because of lenses. Im not risking a rock taking out my projectors. I might just install them with screws and save the silicone seal for when the lenses go one for final install after paint.
Thoughts on how well paint is going to stick to the plexi lenses? Trying to decide if I get the trim painted professionally or do some vinyl.
Have people actually gotten this stuff yet? I got my C kit in November and still no glass or lights...
I have received everything for my C kit except for rear hatch glass, handle mounts, and lens. But I just got the glass last week.
The lenses are held in place with 3m double side paint. I think it will be fine or you could use some buytl glue. I think it will hold up fine just prep the surfaces and make sure everything is clean prior to application.
I'm more concerned with paint sticking to the lens, not the lens to car.
There are the aluminum trim rings remember so even if you get paint to stick to the lense it would be covered. If the paint is fully cured prior to install I don't think paint transfer is a concern.
I didn't anticipate a trim ring to go around the outside of the lense. I thought that was painted on.
My reading of the instructions is that there is an optional step where you can paint the inside contact area "If desired mask off the top of the lenses so that there is a boarder showing the same with or 1/8 inch more than the flange on the fender and paint the lens boarder. This will cover the adhesive, tape and bucket screws.". IMHO the best way to do this is with epoxy paint and a steady hand. If the paint does not have a strong adhesion to the plastic, it could come loos at the worst possible time and leave its mark on the body.
I guess that's paint. My bad thought it was aluminum trim rings didn't read the manual since I don't have lenses yet to finish the install. You could get creative and use vinyl wrap to do this. Just need to be careful.
Here is a good instructional video on how to install something similar, but most of what is shown applies.
http://boatworkstoday.com/archives/1735
I'm not a fan of having to paint the new headlights. Seems very non serviceable and potential for poor cosmetic fit and finish.
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I used Krylon Fusion paint on another project and it worked out great! That stuff sticks to milk jugs!
FFR 5136 Started as a donor...donor guages, engine, trans,etc. Now...TFS street intake,stage 1 cam, GT40p's,24# injectors and 80mm MAF,70mm TB,Z-spec t-5, and PSE Halibrand wrapped with Nitto 555 G2’s. My ever evolving dream car!!
*Opens amazon app and 1-click purchases vhb tape*
Shut up and take my money.
Now if I could get a one click factory five BOP going we would be in business.
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Got my headlamps test fitted. Much easier setup the old lights. I am going to use 1/8" rivets to hold together instead of bolts provided to pull gaps closed.
I bought those same leds. I'd like to see how you're wiring them for a tidy solution, especially given your employer
Is the double sided tape strong enough to hold the buckets to the body? Both rivets and screws would require that the lens be removed in order to replace burned out LEDs. The tape and perhaps additional Silicon would make the task easier, assuming the fenders are made to be removable. The headlight buckets do not look to weigh very much and neither do the small LEDs. Would the "Halo Projector Headlights" weigh too much to make this possible? Is there another way to attach the buckets from the back?
Fireblade, how did you get rid of the seams on the fenders?
Metros, what LEDs? Fireblade doesn't show pix of them.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ed-light/1494/
Check these out
A lot of work... but i started with some masking tape and put that on both sides on the seams. Next I sanded down the seam first with a dremel then blocked out the rest. After I just blocked the remainder of the seam after my initial trim down with no tape on the fenders. Metro you gave my leds out away but its alright. I would rivet or bolt the buckets to the fender that way it is secure I wouldn't trust silicone and tape only. The projector puts a significant amount of stress on the buckets and does weight a decent amount.
Has any one tried to use a cabinet scraper to take the seams down?
Took me about a good weekend to get the fenders to where they are at. It's just very time consuming and boring work. Nothing to difficult to do.
If you know how to use a cabinet scraper you can save yourself a lot of time and effort over sanding. In addition, you make a lot less of a mess. The cabinet scraper produces thin shavings rather than dust. Also, I hope that if you are sanding fiberglass, that you use a respirator.
If you rivet the buckets and you need to remove the buckets later you have to drill all the time, more serviceable with bolts but bolts make a bigger hole and it looks like the inner border is not very large, seems to fit anyway.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
If you drill out the rivets, how do you keep from not drilling into the lens? If you remove the lens and then drill out the rivets, how do you clean the silicone and tape off the lens?
No matter what you do you have to remove the lenses unless you want exposed screws. Personally not my taste I'm going to paint and bolt the buckets in place. To remove the silicone and tape residue you could simply rub it off with your hands and use goo gone or some other adhesive remover.
If you use bolts, what kind of access do you have once the front end is together and should you rivnut the aluminum panels?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Is it possible to use studs in the fender pointing down and slip the bucket on from underneath and attach with some nuts? The glass-in studs may be too big but you may be able to trim them down enough to fit and glue in. Or may the weld in studs are low profile enough to glue in from the top. There's also the PEM studs (press in) but I doubt the fiberglass is thick enough for those to work. I can't remember the name of the glue that I'm thinking of. The stuff that a number of people on here have used to glue hood hinges to roadster hoods as such. The trick of coarse is lining up all the studs so that the bucket can go on easy. If it works, you wouldn't have to remove the cover to get to your fastener. The cover could be put on over top of the stud bases and no one would ever know they're there. Just a thought.
I don' think you can press pems into fiberglass, but you could probably get a wide base version and glue it in. I think you're thinking of 3M panel bond.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
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www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
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Almost forgot, my new front end is showing up Monday and the Harley/Vman style rear bumper showed up Wednesday.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
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I had a thought this morning.
I have a daytona prototype front end (splitter and bumper/hood) in my garage. They have female threaded receptacles bonded into the fiberglass and then screws going through lense into these receptacles. For all intents and purposes they're like 8-32 rivnuts in fiberglass. The lenses then have a painted stripe around them and they use black scerws. From a distance they're not visible but up close they are. If you're going for a "because racecar" look these would work well. Rivet the bucket to the body and then insert small pems into the fender and bolt on the lense.
For those wanting a more oem look you could make some strips with pem studs pressed into them. These would fit on top of the lip in the fender and be bonded (or riveted) to the fender. The studs stick down into the car so the buckets can be bolted on with nuts and alternatively removed. The headlight lenses would get bonded in place permanently and the outside painted to hide the strips underneath.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports