Need a little help with the rear spindle installation

[TX-Lou]

Ok. So we are new to this and have come across something that we just weren't sure on. I couldn't find any detail for this in the manual, any addendum that I had or in the forums. Any help would be greatly appreciated. First, here is a picture of the left rear (driver's side) spindle/knuckle from overhead (with labels).



The labels are as follows:

A: The original rear lower link from the donor (that has the swar bar connection point)
B: The other original rear lower link with the slight bend in it.
C: The rear lower control arm from the donor
D: The 15" assembled FFR lateral link (thin tube)
E: The 6" assembled FFR upper lateral link
F: The 12" assembled FFR lower lateral link (thicker tube)
G: The optional FFR adjustable rear lower control arm

At this point we are confused on where some of things go and what replaces what. I think we are good on C, D and E. But as for the rest, here are my questions.

First, what does the optional FFR adjustable rear lower control arm (G) replace in the regular setup? I thought it replaced A in this picture so that is where I have it.

Second, I've seen pictures in the manuals that show the setup done with F where it is, and I've seen it with B where F is. What is even more confusing is that we got 4 sets of F in our kit so if we do use them where I have them in the picture there would be two left over. Which way should we be doing this? Right now it doesn't look right because when we put the long OEM bolt through G, the knuckle and then F, there aren't enough threads to tighten that bolt and no spacers were mentioned. There were 4 long gold bolts that came in the kit that look to be about the right length but they are too thick in diameter to go through the arms or knuckle.

Here is another picture from the side if that helps.



Thanks in advance,

- Lou

[Hindsight]

The optional adjustable rear lower control arm replaces the non-adjustable lower rear control arm. Yes it replaces A. The purpose of it is to have (much) better control of your rear toe which is a very critical adjustment in these cars.

B should go where you have F. As far as those swedged tubes with rod-ends on each side of them, you only need two per side in the rear for a total of four. One is "E" in your pic, the other is "D" in your pic which goes from the firewall to the top of the knuckle and allows you to adjust the angle of the spindle which is very important.

Sure is quiet in here this weekend. I think it's just you and me out in the garage

[TX-Lou]

Thanks Hindsight!

That leaves me with the question of why did we get 4 sets of F? We went to the Build School and I don't remember using the tubes with the rod-ends anywhere else.

- Lou

[Hindsight]

I think it was a mistake on FFR's part.

[C.Plavan]

The donor piece "A" looks majorly bent. I do not recall seeing anyone else's bent like that. Mine were straight, but I built with all new parts. Unless it off a different car.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The donor piece "A" looks majorly bent. I do not recall seeing anyone else's bent like that. Mine were straight, but I built with all new parts. Unless it off a different car.

All four of my lateral link (A&B) were bent on both my donors.
Coparts uses a fork truck to pick up the cars from the rear. Bends them every time.

Lou
I thought FFR had an option to get swaged tube type lateral links.
Did you possibly order that option?
Bob

[TX-Lou]

Bob,

That never occurred to me because the bends in both sets are dead on the same. You can put both A's next to each other and both B's next to each other and the bends are identical and in the exact same places. It really looks like they are supposed to be that way. We did get our donor from Copart and it was hauled out of the yard on a massive fork lift truck. That guy must have had the car perfectly centered on the lift.

I don't recall ordering the swedged tube lateral links. But I think I can explain that. When we got the kit it was missing the Adjustable Lateral Links (G) that we ordered. We added that to the list of stuff missing and FFR sent them out to us. I bet they accidentally sent the swedged tube links instead of the Adjustable Lateral Links with the original kit order. That would explain why we got a set of 4 included separately in Box 10.

I'll go ahead and use two of the swedged tubes instead of the B's since both B's are bent. I just need to find/make the right spacers to get it to work.

Thanks,
- Lou

All four of my lateral link (A&B) were bent on both my donors.
Coparts uses a fork truck to pick up the cars from the rear. Bends them every time.

Lou
I thought FFR had an option to get swaged tube type lateral links.
Did you possibly order that option?
Bob

[67 Car Guy]

I have a similar situation.

I have ALL adjustable control arms, and the manual is no help. It says to preset the lengths to 10 1/8" for the lateral links and 18" for the (rear) forward links, but it doesn't give any reference points. I ASSumed it meant C-C but if you set them 18" C-C the rod ends are almost out of the tubes. So I'm starting with them end-end at those dimensions. But that will eventually fall out of the alignment process. My real problem right now are the lower rear control arms (forward and rearward) that are attached to the spindle with that LONG 14mm bolt that goes through both links and the two bosses in the spindle. I assume they should be adjusted to the same length but what's a good starting length? Seems like each one could easily go in or out an inch, which would move my rear wheels in or out. I expect to do a little bit of adjusting to eventually put my tires as far out as I can while still clearing my fenders. But right now without having tires, wheels or final-mounted body, I've got too many variables. Can anyone suggest a good C-C starting point for the rear lower control arms? How long is a fixed length factory arm (C-C)?

[67 Car Guy]

UPDATE: I got a standard fixed link, it's 16 3/16" Center to center.