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Senior Member
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Nice catch "E"....I'll file it with my mental notes.....now, if I could just remember where I keep them. HMMMM...da Bat
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Senior Member
Glad you solved the problem. Beats smoking..lol
It almost looks like the spring end could have stood to be bent over just slightly more to begin with. That would probably give the needed clearance to prevent it catching on the caliper's rougher surface. The spring itself must not have had the gumption needed to pull itself free.
FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010
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Senior Member
This will come in handy as the parking brake is moving up on my to-do list...
FFR #8833 289 FIA 3-link
1965 289, TKO600 from Forte's Parts Connection
Body and Paint by Mike's Auto Restoration
Picked up 3/5/2016, First start 4/22/2017, MA legal 7/11/2018
Build Thread
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...FIA-build-8833
"Insanity is contagious" - Joseph Heller
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
AC Bill
Glad you solved the problem. Beats smoking..lol
It almost looks like the spring end could have stood to be bent over just slightly more to begin with. That would probably give the needed clearance to prevent it catching on the caliper's rougher surface. The spring itself must not have had the gumption needed to pull itself free.
I'm not completely convinced that the spring was catching but it seems to be the only explanation. Once I let the Parking brake off, it would return about 80% and then with a slight touch of the screwdriver or pliers, it would release fully. The springs could be one of those things the chinese just don't finish off completely.
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I put in a second spring around the brake cable. It is between the caliper and the lever activating the parking brake. You really cannot tell it is there when using the parking brake. The brake fully releases with the help of the extra spring. I got the idea from EdwardB. I can add a picture if anyone needs to see it.
Doug
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Senior Member
I have also noticed that the cable w/ it's plastic(?) coating is a dang tight fit in the cable sleeve. Much tighter than I would prefer. On a completely different caliper I had to do the same as Bobby Doug. A compression spring around the cable.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Bobby Doug
I put in a second spring around the brake cable. It is between the caliper and the lever activating the parking brake. You really cannot tell it is there when using the parking brake. The brake fully releases with the help of the extra spring. I got the idea from EdwardB. I can add a picture if anyone needs to see it.
Doug
please add it if you can. There should be no need for this as the right one works fine. I should know as I have two right ones as they send me one by accident. I've spent hours trying to fix it so it works as designed but am ready to see what you've done. Thanks.
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Member
Originally Posted by
Bobby Doug
I put in a second spring around the brake cable. It is between the caliper and the lever activating the parking brake. You really cannot tell it is there when using the parking brake. The brake fully releases with the help of the extra spring. I got the idea from EdwardB. I can add a picture if anyone needs to see it.
Doug
I had the same problem a couple of years ago with my Wilwoods and did the same as "Bobby Doug".
ExtraHelperSpring.jpg
Here is the spring specs and part# I used: 3-1/4" length, 7/16" O.D., .062 wire gauge (Hillman part #40)
Trevor
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
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Well Used Member
Originally Posted by
Bobby Doug
I put in a second spring around the brake cable. It is between the caliper and the lever activating the parking brake. You really cannot tell it is there when using the parking brake. The brake fully releases with the help of the extra spring. I got the idea from EdwardB. I can add a picture if anyone needs to see it.
Doug
I did the same thing. (If Edwardb wasn't here, I just don't know how I would make it.)
IMG_0648 small.jpg
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Senior Member
Thank you Everyone! With 2200 miles on 8442 I've noticed excessive brake dust on Drivers rear wheel. My Brother Ron found this link from Eric last night. Going out to put it on the lift to take a look and source the Compression helper springs
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PLATNUM Supporting Member
Mine is doing the same thing. I need to take a closer look.
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sticky caliper
Originally Posted by
ehansen007
I noticed that my drivers rear brake was sticking a while back. It seemed to drag a bit since the day I built it. One day it was so bad it was steering the car and smoking. Being from California, I'm not a big fan of smoking.
I thought it was the piston getting locked. But it only happened after I had the ebrake on. FFR sent me a new caliper and I put it on. Same problem. After testing everything including the cable, lever, etc, it appears that the spring end was getting hung up on the caliper. Or, the actuator lever needed some alignment. The tolerance was very tight. I just used a screwdriver to pry it down a bit and it releases perfectly now. I wouldn't normally mention it but since it did the same thing on two new calipers I'd figure it's important. Might be a batch of them that have this problem. I've notified FFR.
I had the same problem on my Roadster.I called FFR and they said they never herd of this problem. I thought the pads needed to wear in a bit. I will check the alignment and the spring. Thanks
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Senior Member
Well they are hearing about it now! Seems like more than a few people are seeing it and I haven't even posted it on FFcars yet. My second replacement caliper is doing the same thing and it's not the spring catching so I tried to lube it by taking the spring off (do not do this as it took me a while to get it back on) and greasing the shaft to see if the action would be smoother. It wasn't. I just ended up disconnecting that caliper. FFR agrees we should not have to put an extra spring on this to make it work. It appears that the shaft of the lever is just hanging up inside the housing. The right side is super responsive and the left should release as well. I think it's a bad chinese casting that's the problem.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
boat737
I did the same thing. (If Edwardb wasn't here, I just don't know how I would make it.)
IMG_0648 small.jpg
Wow and those are totally different calipers! I wonder if this isn't just a leverage thing where it gets augured in there and binds.
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Reviving an old thread.
My passenger side caliber has always stuck on but would release with a good push of the brake pedal, you could hear it click off and the car would roll.
Yesterday I had the parking brake pulled very tight to hold the drivetrain/engine from turning so I could remove and install the crank bolt for my harmonic balancer.
Anyway, after I was done, drivers side caliber was stuck on. Wouldn’t release. Ended up having to take the wheel off and give it a good pry with a screwdriver before it popped open.
Anyone find a fix for this problem?
My fix so far has been to rarely use it, I just park with the transmission in gear, but it would be nice to have everything work as intended.
2017 FFR MK4 9026, 3 Link, 15" FFR halibrands, cooper cobra tires, '88 302/5.0, GT40 Y303 heads, Performer RPM intake Manifold, Holley 650 DP Carb, Pertronix distributor, T5Z spec built transmission, 3.73 rear end. Ordered Nov 2016, picked up at FFR Feb 2017, first start July 2017, Legal on the road May 2018, still in Gelcoat.
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I guess I should be more clear when asking for a fix. Does adding the helper spring fix it 100%?
2017 FFR MK4 9026, 3 Link, 15" FFR halibrands, cooper cobra tires, '88 302/5.0, GT40 Y303 heads, Performer RPM intake Manifold, Holley 650 DP Carb, Pertronix distributor, T5Z spec built transmission, 3.73 rear end. Ordered Nov 2016, picked up at FFR Feb 2017, first start July 2017, Legal on the road May 2018, still in Gelcoat.
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Originally Posted by
Murd
I guess I should be more clear when asking for a fix. Does adding the helper spring fix it 100%?
Did with mine. I used a piano spring. Post #128 on my build thread. I also linked to spring I used.
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Senior Member
Count me in on this problem, my right rear Wilwood brake drags. I suspected it was the parking brake but didn’t get a chance to look into it before sending it off to paint. Glad to hear the spring is a good workaround.
Bradley
Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.
The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.
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Originally Posted by
GTBradley
Count me in on this problem, my right rear Wilwood brake drags. I suspected it was the parking brake but didn’t get a chance to look into it before sending it off to paint. Glad to hear the spring is a good workaround.
These are the mustang brakes, not sure if it’s applicable to the wilwood brakes as well?
2017 FFR MK4 9026, 3 Link, 15" FFR halibrands, cooper cobra tires, '88 302/5.0, GT40 Y303 heads, Performer RPM intake Manifold, Holley 650 DP Carb, Pertronix distributor, T5Z spec built transmission, 3.73 rear end. Ordered Nov 2016, picked up at FFR Feb 2017, first start July 2017, Legal on the road May 2018, still in Gelcoat.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Murd
These are the mustang brakes, not sure if it’s applicable to the wilwood brakes as well?
I hope so, Trevor (TMScrogins) from above seems to have had this fix work on the Willwoods.
Bradley
Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.
The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.
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Senior Member
I am reviving this thread again as I just had this happen to me. I will be putting in the piano spring as well. But figured it was relevant enough to bring back.
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The problem is the Factory Five cables. Throw them away and get the ones from Wilwood!
Mk4 Complete kit with IRS, IRS brakes, Power Steering, 302 mounts, 302 headers, TKO, 2 Rollbars, Leather seats,
vintage gauges, polished stainless sidepipes, front and rear sway bars, all cutouts.
Blueprint Engines 347 stroker; Tremec TKO 600; 3.55 IRS, 17" Bullitt wheels: 9" front 10.5" rear.
Delivered Nov. 6, 2018. First start Aug. 11, 2019. First Go-Cart Feb. 21, 2020.
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Senior Member
I’m having the same issue and I’m not using the brake cables from F5. Left side is the issue and it does not always release. I try to avoid using them. I plan on grinding the existing spring tops flatter so they don’t catch on the housing.
Mark4 - 331 Stroker - Fitech 600 -TKO600 - Moser 3.55