Nice video. Looks like you were just up the street from me.
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Nice video. Looks like you were just up the street from me.
FFR 7123 tilt front, Levy 5link/wilwoods/LCA's, webers.
SL-C, LS3 525, Mendeola SDR5,
I have discovered that the camel hump SBC heads are holding me back. We are debating buying new Aluminum Heads or going on to the LS
Local Car Show 12/16/2016
Last edited by wrp; 01-15-2017 at 03:29 PM.
Minding my own business today out trying to get the car tuned and came upon a DPS Trooper. As I approached he started to pull onto the road. Even though I was being good I felt a pang of oh ****...Cool guy pulls up beside me and gives me a big thumbs up.
So WRP I paused one of your videos and saw where you were Cruising. You are very close to me. I live in West Frisco not to far from Lebanon and Teel. I just put in my order for the stage 1 Kit for the Hot Rod. It should get here in about another month and a half. I honestly have not seen a FF Hot Rod up close and in person and would love to be able to check out your car some day. Maybe get an idea or two and some pointers.
The Plano GTG you have videos of... What days and time do they normally meet up? I used to show up at one of the GTGs that met at the Walmart parking lot on Coit and just north of George Bush. I was in a white 76 or 89 Corvette and it was great until the Ricers and Motorcycles screwed it up. The ricers ended up getting the polices attention because they kept going on onto GB and racing. Wal-Mart finally had enough of it when a bike rode a wheelie from the back of the lot all the way to the front door and ended it with an endo.
When we first started meeting there Wal-Mart said it was Ok and even when the police showed up, they just got out of their cars and would check out the cars and talk to us.
Tim Sapp
Frisco, TX
Look up Renegade Unleashed on Facebook. That is the page for the meet. It is every other Friday night for the winter. The next one will be the 27th. There is also a meet in McKinney off 75 at LaMadeline every Saturday morning 8010 am. Lots of old school there may steel body 32-40 cars. Of course Kellers on Saturday nights when the weather gets better, usually starts in April, you can never tell though. Cars and coffee the 1st Saturday every month at the BMW place at Parker and the North South Tollway I think Cars and Coffee Plano will get you to their web site. Every 1st Saturday afternoon there is the monthly muscle car show in Plano starts around 3-34 pm and goes to 8 pm. I will pm you my phone number, you are welcome to come over and see the car whenever you have time.
McKinney Texas every Saturday GTG 8-10 am. At La Madelines,NW corner of US 75 and Eldorado Parkway
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Sometimes I have a bad hesitation in the lower gears. In this case the car fell on it's face in 1st then nearly jumped off the road when the secondaries kicked in after the 1-2 shift. Getting closer to an LS every day
No sir. that motor was putting down well over 1500 to the wheels through and unlocked convertor, TH400, and Ford 9 inch rear. We are going to shoot fro something between 600 and 1000. We will start out NA around 450 and work up from there
Last edited by wrp; 01-24-2017 at 08:14 PM.
New Direction
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Interesting look at the engine idling using the iPad Thermal Imaging Camera. Looking for leaks and sparks
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Have to say that I finally got the Holley Carb and the MSD Ignition sorted out. Car runs superbly now. Last dynamometer pull was 275/325. I suspect some pretty good gains when I get it back out.
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Last edited by wrp; 02-16-2017 at 09:46 AM.
Got back on the dyne today. Jetted up the Holley and played with the tim ing. picked up 15 more rear wheel horsepower. She's at 288/323 right now.
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Last edited by wrp; 02-18-2017 at 01:07 AM.
Also, fitted some ProStar 15 inch wheels to the car.
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WRP,
What was the issue with the Holley? Mine has given me a bit of trouble being reliable with the electronic choke, and those fuel injection systems just keep looking better and better for my SBC.
Here is a start. Don't regard me as 100% doctrinal, this is just my observations. So there were a number of problems, let me see if I can list them, not to confuse you but to list the rabbits I chased down various holes.
- The rotor cap and distributor cap were bad and I thought it was the carburator only that was the problem. Jerked a lot of things around before I found this.
- The plug wires had been against the headers and were shorting out
- The spark plugs were badly fouled
- The gasket between the carb and the intake was torn completely through
- Some guys helping me hooked the PCV to the back port which is not for the PCV introducing a lot of unnecessary crud into the wrong places
- The car was not timed correctly with a good intial baseline and fully advanced setting.
- The float bowl settings were to high spilling raw fuel into other subsystems
- The power valve that came with the carb wasn't marked and apparently had been broken by a backfire
- The accelerator pump was not properly adjusted leaving first a lag between the accelerator and the pump lever
- The Black accelerator pump cam seems to have been wrong, I am curren tly using the orange cam
- The Black Secondary spring seems to have been wrong, I am using the brown spring
- A holley Tech told me to adjust the four corner adjustment screws 1/4 turn at a time until the lean backfire went away. I had them out to 15 one half turns. Discovered the float problem and backed them back to 3 one half turns. A big reason for the rich condition.
- I changed the float needles and have been playing with float levels, higher than midpoint and it pukes fuel out your air bleeds
- I put a one inch spacer under the carburator to lift it off the hot manifold.
- I hooked the PCV to the right port in the front
- once I had a fairly lean idle, 13.1 AFR, my WOT went to 17 so i up jetted from .68 to .72 on the primaries and from .73 to .78 on the secondaries.
- I have closed off the transition slots on the primaries almost completely with just a small square showing and opened up a little on the secondary transition slot.
- My final timing is set at 15 degrees initial advancing to 36 degrees at 2500 rpm mechanically.
So here are my thoughts on the approach
- Don't start jetting. Any internet video that suggest drilling, filing, plugging or otherwise modifying the carb is bogus, do not watch it
- Do not touch the carburator until you have gone through and verified your ignition and are satisfied it is timed and advances to the points you want.
- That means testing plug wires, plugs, and fuel filters. Not looking at them, but testing them.
- Do get a vacum gauge and or an AFR bung with sensor and reader, ala LM1. Learn how to get the gauge hooked up and get a feel how the carb responds to adjustments to the four corner screws. Ensure your power valve is at least 1/2 of your vacum measured by the gauge. I have 15 PSI max vacuum so my power valve is 7.5
- Measure the intake vacuum and adjust the four corner idle adjustment screws. 3 one half turns is maximum lean. Anythin more than about 6 turns oput from seated is too much. These screws only affect idle and some of transition. If you have a lean idle or transition backfire either they or the transition slots are the problem.
- Take the carburetor off and inspect gaskets and so forth. The transition slots are critical, they cannot be open too far or too little. They will affect other adjustments on the carb.
- Make sure the fuel levels are adjusted in the float bowls, I reommend the lower edge of the sight window. I changed the needles
- ensure your accelerator pump is adjusted correctly, .015 at WOT
- consider tying off secondaries to work out idle, transition, and other systems. You get the primaries right the secondaries are much easier.
- Once you get a good Idle AFR, measure the WOT AFR and that will tell you whether you need to go richer or leaner with your jets.
Hot Rod Magazine recently had an article about a 350 with the same problems except it was using EFI. It would be a shame to spend the money and not fix the problem. I argue there is a problem if it backfires, misfires, or performs slowly. The pig won't smell any better in a silk purse. Once you get it right, put the EFI on and then you got something. Just an Opinion.
Last edited by wrp; 02-19-2017 at 02:46 PM.
Tried the Zoomies. Loved them, loved the sound, loved the look. Couldn't abide the scraping on speed bumps and my own driveway. Changed them back
Swapped back from the Zoomies to the custom exhaust. Got tired of dragging speed bumps and my driveway
So I bought the recommended headers for the SBC. Those headers had round ports. I didn't really stop to look at my SBC camel hump heads which have square ports. The gasket sent with the headers had round ports to match the headers. Problem is when I bolted everything on the car without really looking close, the round port header tubes were covering some portion of the exhaust port in the head. Inevitably this lead to exhaust leaks. Tonight I put some square port gaskets on the heads and headers. I sanded the header and head ports down flat to ensure a good seat and bolted the headers back up. If it did't fix the leak it nearly has. I am still dealing with the round peg in a square hole problem. I would appreciate any advice. should I look for headers with square ports on the flange?
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Last edited by wrp; 03-05-2017 at 11:03 PM.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
I am still trying to figure this one out. Hung around to see if I could get some exciting crash videos but they stayed lucky. Had Cataract Surgery and wearing the face shield to keep wind off eyes.