What are you guys running for your upper radiator hose setup? I plan on using the hose provided by factory five and the filler T. What i'm not sure about is what water neck and how to get it to the supplied hose. Thanks for any help.
Visit our community sponsor
What are you guys running for your upper radiator hose setup? I plan on using the hose provided by factory five and the filler T. What i'm not sure about is what water neck and how to get it to the supplied hose. Thanks for any help.
I used one like this from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...view/make/ford. It came in polished aluminum. There are some nice setups out there with a filler incorporated into the water neck. They might make it easier to get the air out of the system. Here is a picture of my setup as you described.
Last edited by Norm B; 02-08-2017 at 11:21 AM.
Billet water neck / thermostat housing feeding a vintage Ford degas tank. Hoses are a combination of the various sizes and shapes cut from larger hoses sourced from the local NAPA. Also includes a home-made aluminum connector tube in the center of the long run from the degas tank to the radiator to add support to the hoses.
Later,
Chris
"There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
Mk3.1 #7074
I went with Cobra Earls.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Here is an option. IMHO looks a bit nicer than using the corrugated stainless setup.
This is what I actually ended up with. A bit more complicated.
You can use a Fox Mustang water neck. For under 10 bucks you can get Autozone part number 814884 with an additional tapped port which makes a great place for your cooling fan switch or temperature gauge sender.
Some guys will tell you that the rubber hoses blow off of the corrugated tubing. You can keep that from happening by simply adding three or four 1/4" long stainless steel oval head sheet metal screws around the perimeter to create sort of a bead at the end of the corrugated hose
Once the coupler is slipped over and the clamp (plain ol' garden variety screw type) there's no way it's gonna' come off. Speaking of the couplers---silicone the hose bushing/adapter thingies to the inside of the couplers when you use them.
With all that said, those Breeze tubes sure are a thing of beauty!
Jeff
I can't believe I am posting after Jeff K., (please forgive me), but instead of the screws in the corrugated hose, I used stainless steel rivets. A little smaller, but the same idea.
And as for the couplers, wish I would have done the silicone thing. They are very temperamental. I sure don't want to over tighten them, but one or two just can't seem to not want to drip ever so slightly.
Last edited by boat737; 02-08-2017 at 06:18 PM.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
I used Cobra Earls also. My output comes out in the opposite as Boats does. I am running a Ron Davis Radiator so the hose goes through the inner fender. This has changed now as I got rid of the braided line and am now running a Stainless tube with rubber hose connectors to the housing and the Radiator.
I used the FFR supplied filler "T" with rubber radiator hoses sourced from my local Oreilly's Auto Parts store. I bent the corrugated stainless hose to match the bends I needed, then took the bent pieces to Oreilly's and found the rubber hose that matched. I then made a support strut from .090" aluminum strap for the filler "T", bolted to the rhs head.
IMG_20160111_161353702_HDRr.jpgIMG_20160111_161447460_HDRr.jpgIMG_20160826_120759278r.jpg
I used the Breeze setup on mine:
FFR #8833 289 FIA 3-link
1965 289, TKO600 from Forte's Parts Connection
Body and Paint by Mike's Auto Restoration
Picked up 3/5/2016, First start 4/22/2017, MA legal 7/11/2018
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...FIA-build-8833
"Insanity is contagious" - Joseph Heller
What about the stock Ford one that came on your engine? They work perfectly fine. using a step down hose to the T. You can buy one at most any parts store, and just cut it to length. I think the T is 1-1/4", the OEM outlet is 1-1/2", but measure first, as it's been awhile since I had to worry about that part of the build.
I got it figured out. I purchased a radiator hose with a tight "u" bend in it. I cut that in order to make my 90. I'm going to run it along the passenger square tube up to the radiator and mount the overflow tank to the front x in the frame. This way I can put my coil on the f panel and keep everything nice and neat. I should have a picture this afternoon.
Kirkham CNC surge Tank with various part store hoses and stainless tube.P0001456.jpg