Just curious, - How far did you get before you installed engine and trans? I'm planning on putting in the blueprint 347 EFI with TKO 600. I'm not using the quick time bell housing, blueprint has an aluminum bell housing.
Mike
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Just curious, - How far did you get before you installed engine and trans? I'm planning on putting in the blueprint 347 EFI with TKO 600. I'm not using the quick time bell housing, blueprint has an aluminum bell housing.
Mike
I put mine in once all engine bay aluminum was done, steering was in, and fuel and brake lines/booster installed. Then you know how much space you have to work with for other things.
You will likely get different opinions. However I didn't fit tranny until I was sure it could stay in for good. As it happens I did have to remove it to do some driver footwell mods. (recommended mod!)
Finally started my build the beginning July. 2015!
I installed my drive line after I completed the entire chassis; however, the first thing I did was make sure it fit in the bare chassis.
https://youtu.be/3f1Q4aS5SG4
If you jack up the back of the car and put the rear up on roller dollies you can install it pretty darn quick. 15-20 minutes from soup to nuts.
Good Luck!
Same as chopthebass. If I'd known where to route my electrical harness, I'd have done some of that as well.
I recommend test fitting the transmission along with your engine, so that you don't have to move your fuel pressure regulator from what looked like a good place on your firewall because of interference with the bell housing.
Finally, when you test fit your engine/transmission assembly, measure how long your battery cables and other power wiring needs to be. If you've got more than three wires to connect to your starter solenoid, you're going to have to install a power post; I put mine on the right side engine mount. Although I didn't install one, the same applies to your battery cutoff switch. It's WAY easier to install that stuff with the engine out of your way.
John
Last edited by phileas_fogg; 08-06-2017 at 07:17 PM.
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
I waited till all the brake, fuel lines, and a lot of electrical was done. Only had the aluminum in firewall forward. Easier to install engine/trans that way. All the front and rear suspension was in too.
JRL16
Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.
I installed the engine and tranny at the same time. I had done as much as I could, suspension, brake and fuel lines, electrical, heater, fuel tank, all aluminum panels drilled, and many installed. I was able to do all that while frame was up on sawhorses, which made it much easier. I knew the sawhorses couldn't take the weight of the engine/tranny, so I left it till quite late in the build.
I used two engine hoists to lift the frame off the sawhorses, and set it on the ground.
I install them after the chassis and aluminum is complete and all the plumbing and wiring is in.
Jeff
I have had the engine in and out a few times to test fit and check things. Mostly did it by my self it doesn't take to long
I am building my roadster in the order described in the Book, and have not done any of the steps out of order. It has worked for me. I completed my rolling chassis months ago, and had driven it around the neighborhood as a go cart a few times. The body doors hood trunk and windshield are pretty much in place.
Putting the frame up on saw horses, what a great idea.
Joel
For my SBF builds, I didn't put the engine in until everything else was done. Sheet metal, wiring, fuel and brake lines, etc. But then I didn't have the engines on hand until well into the build. So kind of no choice. Your 347 is a pretty easy fit, so no big obstacles to worry about. If it makes you feel better, and especially for a first time build, if you have the engine it's really easy to drop it into place with no sheet metal and you can see where best to fit everything else. But not necessary IMO.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Heres a video of one of a past customer (French canadian) - Giles Bastien installing our 427w engine / 5 speed
https://youtu.be/sDg3-hqxo-c
If your looking for an engine / tranny combo look up Engine Factory. We have special pricing for FFR Customers.
http://www.fordcobraengines.com/prod...reted-5-speed/
Engine_trans4a.jpg
Last edited by Engine Factory; 03-10-2017 at 09:34 AM.