Originally Posted by
edwardb
Thanks for the shout out regarding my build thread. Some thoughts to add to those already made. A lot depends on what's going to happen down the road. I assume once you're done driving it in gel coat you will have a pro do the final body work and paint? And they will do it body off? If so, I wouldn't get crazy doing a lot of trimming if you aren't comfortable with it. The body will go on the chassis pretty much as is. You can trim the doors, hood, and trunk lid just enough to get them to fit. Even if a gap is too tight and something is rubbing, doesn't hurt too much if before paint.
Even though I've done my own body trim and panel fit three times now, it still takes me a long time. Days actually. Pros do the same thing in a matter of hours. And in most cases, they would prefer us beginners not do the work. They will all tell you they've had multiple examples of it being worse afterwards. Easy to take material off. Not so easy to put it back on. Same thing with applying product to the body. I would be careful about that unless you're planning to paint it. At the very least, check first. Using HSRF to bond parts, repair something, etc. is typically OK. Likely they would use the same thing. But I personally wouldn't apply any Rage or other body filler if you're not going to paint it yourself. Even if a shop will agree to paint after you've put product on the body, they may limit their warranty coverage.
I wouldn't get crazy with the tools required for the rough body work. With just a couple tools and pretty rough grit paper, I find the vinylester bodies really easy to work with. As an old woodworker, it's like about the softest wood you would work with. Sanding drums with 80 grit paper in a hand drill cut just about everything very quickly. Same thing with a belt sander and 80 grit paper. But be real careful. Takes off a lot of material very quickly. I use a Dremel with their small sanding drums for the small stuff. Also works very quickly. I don't try to put a straight edge on anything first. I draw lines with a Sharpie and work to the lines with whatever power or hand tool that's appropriate. Just take a little at a time. For long straight edges, after a power tool, I put a piece of 80 grit on a long sanding bar and get it straight by hand. With the right grit and sharp paper it's surprisingly easy. You will go through a lot of sandpaper doing these bodies. Resin fills paper very quickly. When it stops cutting, replace it. IMO many don't fully take this into account, and keep sanding with basically worn out or filled paper.
Exhaust cutouts are a challenge for many builds it seems. Lots of threads on the subject. Yes, it's something you need to get sorted out. If your engine needs to be tweaked, that's discussed a lot. I loosen the big nut on the engine mounts, put a floor jack under the low header, apply upward pressure with the floor jack, and re-tighten the nuts. It doesn't take much movement to change the header and subsequent pipe locations. In the end, it's possible they won't be exactly the same on both sides. Get it the best you can, and if within reason, will never be seen. Also realize the cutouts are intentionally undersized (for J-pipes) and with 4-into-4's, do require some cutting. Go really slow using the pipes to check as you go. You'll find the actual cut-outs are below and behind what you can see of the headers through the opening. Due to the curve of the pipes.
Finally, regarding body position. If the rear door body lip is fitting next to the door latches, and your wheel wells are centered on the wheels, I wouldn't be doing anything else very extreme. On my just completed build, I didn't have to trim any aluminum to get mine in that position. Including the rear trunk sides or bottom trunk lip. But I also understand many find it quite normal to trim both. Do what is necessary, but I would really be cautious about taking too much. A little at a time, fitting as you go. Maybe it's just me, but I have the body on and off multiple times getting everything fitted the way I want. For the dash lip, I haven't found too much trimming is necessary there other than to get it straight and clean. For the rear cockpit lip, it also needs to be straightened, but likely will need to have some trimmed off to get it over the rear cockpit wall once it's carpeted. Especially in the area of the seat belt exits. Not a lot of flex there.
Hope this helps and good luck.
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). You mentioned body contact with the Breeze hood hinge...is the front of the body mounted at the quick jack/bumper tubes yet? If not do that before you get too involved with making clearance for the hinge or with fitting and gapping the hood. Step A before Step B before Step C and so on... 
