Can anyone recommend where I can get stainless or chrome QJ's? Preferably stainless.
I got a quote for chroming mine and its crazy $$$!
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Can anyone recommend where I can get stainless or chrome QJ's? Preferably stainless.
I got a quote for chroming mine and its crazy $$$!
Finally started my build the beginning July. 2015!
I'm afraid I don't have an answer for you but I also was thinking of chrome for my quick jacks. Just out of curiosity what was your crazy $$$$ quote?
MK4 delivered 2/24/2017. Complete kit #9023,IRS, Power Steering, Leather, heater, 17" wheels, sway bar ft & rr, tremec 600 and Gordon Levy Racing SBF 427. First start and go kart 8/19/2017. Graduated 1/15/2018
MK4 #9230 complete kit delivered 1/27/2018. IRS, PS, leather, Tremic 600, SBF 427. Graduation 10/15/2018
MK3 #5253 donor bought unfinished. SBF 331, T5 Trans.
********** has them on there site.http://www.**********accessories.com/c-43-bumpers.aspx
I have them on my car. The mounting holes will have to be enlarged from 3/8 to 7/16 to fit
the mounting bolts, but that is easy to do.
Mack
I received a quote locally for 65$ each if that helps...I have decided to go with the stainless from finish line.
Polished SS
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15
Chrome prices are going to vary depending on where you are located---I've had sets of 4 done for $150. I've also used the SS from ********** on a couple of cars. As noted the holes need to be drilled and also be aware that the fronts and rears are different. If you don't realize this you might wind up with one front and one rear on the same end and then when you back away from the car you'll look at it and go "HUH???" (not that I've ever done that....)
Jeff
**********.
Kyle
Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, Painted Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes on 03/15/2017. Sold in 08/2018 and totally regret it.
SS from **********. X2 from Jeff K.
I opened up the holes using my drill press, but be aware (or beware) that that stainless is pretty hard. Chipped the drill bit, but worse, managed to mar the surface on two of them. So I had them re-done by the polisher. Good as new.
As mentioned, they are slightly different in height. In these pics, I'm pretty sure I've got the fronts on the rear and visa versa. Since the front bolts are slightly higher on the body, I'm thinking that the taller ones go on the front. All that said, the shorter ones look just a bit better and better proportioned. The taller ones look pretty long, but that illusion may change when I swap them, and that will happen when the body comes off the next time.
In addition, I also used the beefier SS tubing with them, and shortened them from the FFR length. (See my post #15 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...nt-frame-rails )
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Boat737, whats the best way to shorten the SS tubes? I bought the beefier ones with the rubber grommets to match, but they are too long. I wonder if you can buy a blade that can go in the miter/chop saw, so I can keep the cuts square.
Finally started my build the beginning July. 2015!
Shorts jacks typically go on the front and long ones to the rear. I say mount them whichever way looks best to you.
With regards to drilling stainless. Use plenty of cutting oil and use several different size bits to work up to your final size. Heat is not your friend when drilling stainless.
Last edited by CDXXVII; 04-08-2017 at 10:45 AM.
I used a band saw. A cheap one, but did the job fine. It's a cheaper China made piece that can self feed or stand upright and hand feed with a little table attached. I expect if you use some sort of hand tool, squaring the ends would be necessary, probably with a bench disk sander, or bench grinder or equivalent.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread