QuickTime Bell won't fit on dowel pins...

[aarvig]

Hey guys, I wanted to run a situation by you and get your opinions...
I installed my flywheel today hoping to dial indicate the bell housing but I ran into a snag when installing the bell onto the block.
First of all, I have a brand new DART based 427w. It was built by Smeding Performance in TX. I also have a TKO 600 with a Quick Time bell housing that was purchased new through MDL Driveline in Idaho.
The bell housing lines up and will fit about 1/16" to 1/8" down onto the dowel pins but then it will get stuck and no amount of pushing will get it on. I called MDL who immediately contacted Quicktime. They were told that based on manufacturing techniques it is highly unlikely that the bell is the problem.
I pulled the bell off, rotated it and tried to just get one side to go onto a dowel pin at a time...same problem, could not get the bell housing hole to slide onto the dowel pin more than 1/16-1/8".
Obviously, I have a dowel pin or a bellhousing hole problem. I find it highly unlikely that the bell is the problem since the dowel pins were probably hammered into the block.
My question...how the heck should I handle this?

[CDXXVII]

I had to clean out the holes for the dowel pins in my QuickTime bellhousing. I used a 1/2" reaming bit.

Good video to watch.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NJJGaEnkQ1g

[NAZ]

Good to see you are doing the right thing by aligning your bellhousing to the crank. And once you get the runout you can order the proper offset dowel pins to align the bellhousing. Also, great video CDXXVII -- after watching I've crossed this engine builder off my list. As a former machinist it made me cringe to watch these guys work. Yes, you may have to open up the dowel pin holes but using a carbide burr on a die grinder by hand is not the best way to fit a precision assembly. aarvig, I suggest you measure the dowels (they're probably oversize by .0005 or so as they should be a press fit in the block) and measure the alignment holes in the bellhousing. If it is an interference fit then open up the alignment holes with a reamer or at least a reaming bit as CDXXVII did. I'd not go more than .001" oversize. Using a reamer you'll get a round hole not elliptical like I'm sure the Engine Factory gets by using an aggressive burr by hand. While relieving the starter bore with a burr is probably not as critical; using an abrasive flapper wheel would have given them more control (but then that would take longer wouldn't it?).

[R Thomas]

Watched the video 427 referenced great general info and spot on for the problem aarvig is having.

[aarvig]

Thanks for the replies so far guys. I watched the video and thought it was great info as well. I must admit, I was a bit concerned about the grinding out of the bellhousing holes...is that really an acceptable practice? I mic'd the holes and the dowels. The holes are definitely smaller than the dowels. Not by much, but definitely smaller.

[CDXXVII]

In my case I believe that it's best to use a proper reaming bit. Might be overkill but I wanted to be sure not to oval the hole. There really is not a lot of material that needs to be removed.

Thanks for the replies so far guys. I watched the video and thought it was great info as well. I must admit, I was a bit concerned about the grinding out of the bellhousing holes...is that really an acceptable practice? I mic'd the holes and the dowels. The holes are definitely smaller than the dowels. Not by much, but definitely smaller.

[GFX2043mtu]

Same here. The pins are a tight fit and any paint can causes issues. Clean the holes only enough to remove the paint. The overall fit should be tight and you may need to draw it down with the bolts. Just make sure you draw it down evenly and that it doesn't bind. You should need to use very light effort on the Allen wrench to get it set.

[aarvig]

Here's the update guys. I am certain the problem is NOT with the dowel pins. They measure .4998 and .5000 respectively, which is within tolerance. The holes in the bell housing measure .4980 on both sides. I am thinking the bellhousing is the issue. I put a call into Modern Driveline in Idaho, who provided the parts. I gotta say, this is a real class act crew. He immediately got on the phone with Quick-time they both decided to send me a new bell housing. He personally checked the holes in the new bell with a pin set and verified they will take a .5000 pin set. He put the bell in the mail today. AWESOME service.
On the flip side, while that video was interesting to see it scared the bejeezers out of me to see him grinding on the flywheel ID and the bell housing dowel holes. It also scared the bejeezers out of Bruce at Modern Drive line. Needless to say, that video made its way to Quick Time today and is being reviewed by them. Admittedly, the video is older and likely not relevant considering Quicktime's massive tooling upgrade but to anyone who watches it...do not ream any precision parts with a hand held grinder. Definitely do not grind a flywheel...they are balanced. Definitely do not grind a bell housing, they are supposed to be precision fit.
I'll keep you guys posted on what transpires...

[Engine Factory]

Good to see you are doing the right thing by aligning your bellhousing to the crank. And once you get the runout you can order the proper offset dowel pins to align the bellhousing. Also, great video CDXXVII -- after watching I've crossed this engine builder off my list. As a former machinist it made me cringe to watch these guys work. Yes, you may have to open up the dowel pin holes but using a carbide burr on a die grinder by hand is not the best way to fit a precision assembly. aarvig, I suggest you measure the dowels (they're probably oversize by .0005 or so as they should be a press fit in the block) and measure the alignment holes in the bellhousing. If it is an interference fit then open up the alignment holes with a reamer or at least a reaming bit as CDXXVII did. I'd not go more than .001" oversize. Using a reamer you'll get a round hole not elliptical like I'm sure the Engine Factory gets by using an aggressive burr by hand. While relieving the starter bore with a burr is probably not as critical; using an abrasive flapper wheel would have given them more control (but then that would take longer wouldn't it?).

We've found the Quicktime bellhousings to be pretty consistent from the hundreds that we've done over the years.
We've worked with Quicktime directly to improve their housings and tolerances back in the day, well before they were bought out by Mr. Gasket and now Holley. Haphazardly drilling the alignment pin holes is not something we partake in or recommend , using a flapwheel to remove the excess paint and maintain the concentricy of the hole is the objective.