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This guy gives the best advice, right?Originally Posted by insurance guy
I painted a black edge around the headlight lens cover. I was going to paint the inside of the cover but worried that they would pop off if the paint comes away from the plastic. I now worry that the paint will scratch and look bad. Any thoughts?
I am happy with the new attachment of the strut hinge. I used rivnut instead as the screws into the fiberglass failed. I continue to thank all the people that share their ideas an help, it makes this build easier and I meet new friends.IMG_1522.JPGIMG_1523.JPGIMG_1524.JPGIMG_1525.JPGIMG_1526.JPGIMG_1527.JPGIMG_1528.JPGIMG_1529.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Thought - You did remember to lightly sand the plastic before you painted it, right? If this paint scratches, how would anyone see it if it did not go through to the clear plastic? If it did, why not do a light touch up?
arghhh
I guess I will be repainting those soon enough
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Hi did you cut the door where the latch is so it does not hit the striker?
I don't understand where you mean
can you send photo
the kit had a pattern for the latch and I used that.
I had to trim a little metal as per the instructions , I used a step drill bit and file
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
thanks to mikeb75 for the pics, a little cutting and my windows are exactly they way I want them. Only thing I am looking for is a rubber reveal for the other side of the window that would really finish off the edge.
I am still playing around with drivers door lock.IMG_1530.JPGIMG_1531.JPGIMG_1532.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
I really dislike the way the front hood closes and needs to be stiffer. I will attempt to resolve the issue. I purchased a 5' 1 inch fiberglass angle from Mcmaster Carr. Every 2" I cut a slit on one side. now the angle is able to take a shape. I covered my fender with duct tape and clamped the fiberglass to the edge where the hood lays. What I am trying to do is have the shape of the fenders and fiber glassing that angle to stiffen the hood. After clamping I cut 1" pieces of fiber mat and epoxied to the made slits to hold the shape. After curing I removed the angle and did the other side of the angle. IMG_1536.JPGIMG_1537.JPGIMG_1538.JPGIMG_1539.JPGIMG_1540.JPGIMG_1541.JPGIMG_1542.JPGI am waiting for this to cure.
More to come
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Cool idea to get the shape of the hood curve off of the fender. I've had hood stiffening on my to-do list for some time and have just never gotten around to it. Let us know how it works out.
after the angle cured I used epoxy resin and fiberglass to secure it to the hood. I still have to do the other side but I cannot believe how much more rigid the hood has become. Test fitting it on the car. It fits much better as the hood conforms to the fender shape perfectly.
I will have more pics when other side is completeIMG_1543.JPGIMG_1544.JPGIMG_1545.JPGIMG_1546.JPGIMG_1547.JPGIMG_1549.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
image.jpeg
used a cylindrical grinder bit on drill. Finished with hand files
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Did you finish your door like me
same way
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Ok but mine rubs on the strike and I have more than paint stick thick and I file down the screw of the strike
Now I understand what you are asking.
I cut the fiberglass door skin until it no longer hit the striker
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Does it still look good?.
finished attaching the fiberglass angle to the hood. I am quite please with how much more solid the hood feels. It also conforms better to the shape of the fenders. What was looking like a huge amount of cutting to get the hood to sit neat in the space has become a minor sanding job. If your hood is not the way you like consider adding formed stiffners. It was a very easy fix.
I purchased a new steering wheel and hub that allows me to remove the steering wheel. So much easier to get in and out of the car.
Used structural adhesive to attach aluminum angle to the inside of the doors. I want an easy way to remove the panels to adjust electric window.
IMG_1575.JPGIMG_1577.JPGIMG_1578.JPGIMG_1579.JPGIMG_1580.JPGIMG_1581.JPGIMG_1584.JPGIMG_1585.JPGcutting the edge off the door panels was a little tricky but using table saw and going very slow worked out.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Holy clamps, Batman!! I need to up my clamp-game. Nice work on the hood!
I built a cedar strip canoe so I have boxes of clamps of all sizes. makes it easy to do most jobs.
I am having issues aligning my passenger side window. The driver side is almost perfect. Upon closer inspection I see the electric window unit on passenger side is much different than the drives side. There seems to be missing clips that hold the window base. This seems to cause the window to constantly move. Send email to Factory Five for help.
I need to replace that unit and finish the doors.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
no one sees it with door closed
I keep the door closed
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
I wanted to be able to remove the inner door panels easily to adjust the electric window and I wanted a better edge. Using a table saw I removed the bottom and side edge of the inner door liner. I used acetate adhesive to attach aluminum angles to the door fiberglass as a support for door lines. a rubber edge was put around the door inner liner. I used Velcro to attach the door liner but I think I will drill and tap holes in the aluminum angles to provide a stronger pressured attachment. I am very happy with the result. The door mechanism needs tweaking so the ability to take the liner off allows me to skip the adjustment and actually us the car. One of my electric window units was missing clips to keep the window in place. No wonder I was unable to get the adjustment.IMG_1594.JPGIMG_1595.JPGIMG_1596.JPGIMG_1597.JPGIMG_1598.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
having issues getting the electric windows and door locks to work and look good.
I found a set of electric door looks and now will change the locks over to electric. Looks like slight modifications but is doable. The manual door locks were just not working right. I hope electric will be better.
I purchased the Docooler electric controller and will try to install that.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
^^ You can never have too many clamps! I used to hear that on a woodworking show, but it also applies to the garage.
I can see a cedar strip interior coming......
Harley
Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
First Start Jan 18, 2015
First Drive Feb 14, 2015
What do you think? I can do the inner door skins and center console.
Here is Canoe that I built
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quhOjs2rdwc
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
I think the mystery of the clamp is solved.
That canoe turned out great!
converting to electric door locks was real easy and glad I did
it is so much easier than trying to get that manual key mechanism to work properly
Took the unfinished car to local car show
no one had any idea what it was
IMG_1634.JPGIMG_1641.JPGIMG_1642.JPGIMG_1643.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Alan, I'm glad the electric locks gave you no trouble. Be sure to make some sort of manual unlock in case of a dead battery.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
True! Trust him! He's not saying this for nothing!
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
can you share a pic or how you set that up? I am interested on how it looks by the wheel well
thanks
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Alan, here's how I ran a cable from the latch unlock lever forward to the left front wheel well for the manual unlock.
Manual unlock at latch.jpg
Manual unlock at wheel well.jpg
(it's a secret unlock so don't tell anybody.)
Last edited by AZPete; 08-30-2017 at 12:50 PM. Reason: added photo
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
its been a while since my last post. I have really not touched the car. I started doing the body work for paint but is BODY WORK , ugh.
I have obtained a SMART ELECTRIC and will attempt to do a transplant. Take the entire electrical drive, battery pack, heat, a/c and transplant it into the 818.
I will have to remove all body panels and have them painted while the transplant is taking place.
I have no idea what issues I will face , I am not even sure if it will work.
It will produce plenty of parts.
I will try to video this entire experience and post it online.
more to follow
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Hey insurance guy. I am still interested in the old front end if it is available. I am sorry I haven’t been in contact you know Life and trying to fix the previous owners mistakes have gotten in the way.
Brett
I understand
front end still waiting for you
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
The Smart was delivered yesterday
Cant wait to start deconstructing the both vehicles.
Anyone needing Motor, transmission and other combustible engine parts let me know.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
I just cannot find the time or enthusiasm anylonger.
I am looking to sell my 818C
I will take 12,000 for everything
I upgraded front end and installed hardtop
I still have original front and parts for convertible.
I am in Belmar NJ
its a steal at this price
car is registered and licensed and drivable.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Oh no, Alan! I've been learning some things from you. What happened to the Smart car? Did you do a transplant? Your selling price is certainly a great deal for someone, but I'm sorry you are leaving us.
Pete
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
I wish I knew more about electrical engineering. The smart documentation is minimal and breaking the cam codes is currently beyond my ability. I mounted electric components on bench and continue to try to get it working. I have no room to keep 818 in garage. I started body work, but really find that really dull and painful work. I am busy welding furniture and looking for other projects. I would never drive the car when complete and would rather take the funds and purchase a Tormach 1100 CNC machine.
I enjoy the builds. I did the same thing with the 2 boats and paddleboard I built. Completed and sold them.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Is the gasoline motor and transmission still in the car and is it still streetable or is some reassembly needed after the electric venture?
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