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Engine startup with new 1050cc injectors
Engine startup with previous known 550cc EV14s
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Went at the track this morning.
1h45mins of driving and tuning. Needed to stop cuz I had fuel starvation when accelerating in corners. My tank was pretty empty too.
On the bad things, my RPM needle broke off in half, I need to glue the 2 pieces back together (was already broken for years and I can't find a VR6 replacement part for these) and my Meziere 20GPM WP136S AWIC pump seized up on 1st start up. I wonder if it's cuz I'm using 100% water at the moment (since 1 year) until I pass inspection and then use coolant like I did use for many years before and never had a problem. I hope I can un-seize it, otherwise it's another USD$220 that'll go on the car.
The car was running much better than last time on May 27th. Nothing broke, moved, worn out, exploded, unbolted, leaked, got cut-off, etc.
That handling though is amazing. I did several quick and hard left-rights (like auto-cross) and I could feel the tires working. This chassis is not flexing at all and I didn't feel any roll.
I can't get the brakes to bed in yet, they don't seem to brake very hard, I can brake much faster with my Subaru. Or maybe having the proportional valve fully closed on the front brakes makes them work less than expected.
And the engine sound... well every 500rpm passed 2.5k it gets more and more amazing. And passed 4k off boost or not full boost is incredible. Sounded super smooth like a V12 or something. The lower the RPM the more burp-burp-burp of every cylinder firing you can hear but passed 4k it's so quick it makes the sound constant and amazing.
I think there is plenty of torque off boost at low RPMs. I believe this car can be driven with nice fun downtown, off boost, and if I require more power I let it rev. I just reached 0.6bar (8.7psi) today cuz I limited my EBC for that and I felt some violent power already. I just cannot, really cannot, imagine how violent it would be when pushing 18psi. If the engine doesn't explode then, I'll be the 1st one surprised.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Congrats on a good run and everything working so well. Get a Bosch AWIC pump. Quiet, lots flow and cheap at Frozen Boost.com
Good job frank
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
This FFR tank (1st gen) is really crap. Anyway.
I un-seized my pump! I can't believe I did that, I'm sure 99% of people (the 1% are probably on this forum loll) would have bought a new 220 bucks pump.
2017-07-27 12.37.09_1.jpg2017-07-27 12.37.19_1.jpg2017-07-27 12.37.50_1.jpg
You see the pink top section on 1st pic? That rotates inside the 2 magnets on the 3rd pix. Those magnets are pushed onto the pink stator or something by 2 springs, one of which you see on pic #3. It took me hours to reinstall this!! Without special tools, it's super hard to push the magnets back in while dropping the top cap onto the stem and pump. You don't have enough clearance between the cap and top of pump cover to keep the magnets pushed while you push the cap on. I had to use some sticky tape and had to left it in. But it worked!
only when connected directly to the batt. My button doesn't work, so I suspect one of the 2 fuses blew up. If it's the worst one, it'll take me about 25h to replace due to cascading effects (need to remove console, seats, under seat cover, e-brake cover and drill a 1/4-20 SS bolt to remove the e-brake cover cuz I stripped the bolt's head when bolting the cover on a while back and was hoping never to remove it DOOOOOH!!!!!!). I'll try to find my way around differently!!!! I've got no time for a 25h fix job! Got to put the body on, take pictures for DMV and pass inspection.
Here's a better view of my rear bumper with tail lights on. I now think it looks pretty cool!
2017-07-27 09.46.22_1.jpg
Last edited by Frank818; 07-27-2017 at 07:32 PM.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
The bumper turned out real nice, can't wait to see the whole car wrapped!
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Completely fixed the seized up pump. I'm amazed I unseized a pump! Come on, before the 818 I would have NEVER been able to do such a thing and would have paid 220 to buy a new one.
Here's a video of it working again.
This fix made me realize why Meziere's is making quite some noise. It's not the pump, it's the cup at the bottom, the bowl in which water goes through and has the inlet and outlet. As soon as put that bowl back on, it made more noise. I guess the sound resonates inside.
I have solidified my custom VW cluster brackets, they made the cluster vibrate too much. I just need to glue the 2 pieces of my RPM needle back together and I reinstall the dash.
I have started installing under car panels then I follow with body panels. Couple of days and it should form a COMPLETE car for the 1st time. Of course in "inspection" mode, as there will be many changes right after inspection BEFORE I 1st test drive it on the streets.
Last edited by Frank818; 07-28-2017 at 07:15 PM.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Frank, I remember that you initially had your 818 wired so you could start it from your smart phone, but then re-wired it with a start key for the QC inspection. Reading about the new Tesla Model 3, I see that there is no start key or button because it is started (turned on) from a smart phone app. Tesla has copied you!! How will your inspection guys handle the Model3?
It's good to see you are doing so well with the wrap and I look forward to whole-car pics. And, congrats on the pump repair. Learning new stuff is part of the fun for many of us, along with the thrill of success.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Tnx Pete.
I did install a physical start-stop button following yet another non-written DMV rule. It's too late the hole is made and all is functioning. Although I admit the button is cool and will not work if I don't press some other buttons that are exclusively on a touchscreen, so I am not losing my security feature here.
I read the Motor Trend's review of the red Tesla 3 but didn't see anything about how it starts.
http://www.motortrend.com/cars/tesla...-drive-review/
What's the article you're referring to?
To answer your question, when there are changes promoted by manufacturers usually the DMV is forced to adapt. There are no "international manufacturers'" car that I'm aware of that are legal elsewhere in Canada but not in QC, so I guess here all the stuff is done by Canada Transport and they pass over the new rules and trends to the Provinces.
Very curious to understand how the engine "turns on" on the 3!
Last edited by Frank818; 08-12-2017 at 06:54 PM.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
While Pete is looking for his lost article loll, this is the quick strengthening I did on the VW cluster custom brackets. I did it on one side, not sure it's necessary to do on the other but I might.
2017-07-30 06.40.13_1.jpg
I put heat insulation on the engine covers. The EZcool bits, I'm not sure they'll hold up. I used Super77 glue but standing as on the pix, after a few hours some areas started to peel off slightly. I solidified with aluminum tape but still. Hopefully it won't peel off while driving.
2017-07-30 06.50.43_1.jpg2017-07-30 08.13.17_1.jpg
It takes time to put the panels together. For example the diffuser was somehow slightly off in some holes and it took me 2h to fix holes. Then when trying to bolt through the rear dumper (and diffuser at same time) it didn't align again. Must fix that tomorrow. Obviously after a full installation is done once, everything together in its final locations, it's easier for the next times but now is the time I don't have time, I wanted to be at the police station by Tuesday to check for stolen parts (takes about 3h!), but I can't.
When you are perfectionist, in these builds there's always something that doesn't work and costs you a lot of time. The build sort of never ends.
Last edited by Frank818; 08-12-2017 at 06:55 PM.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
What have you guys done to protect the fiberglass in the FRONT wheel arches? The top section is unprotected.
Not sure I've seen any solution other than rocker panel paint (undercoating), which doesn't last on aluminum (I've tried 3 kinds), I have no reason to think it would "protect" the fiberglass from chipping or cracking when hit by rocks.
The EZCool stuff? That stuff will get destroyed as soon as a rock hits it, I can cut the 1st thin foil layer with just the end of a measuring tape, so...
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Frank, here's a description of the Tesla 3 start via phone app:
https://techcrunch.com/2017/07/28/yo...mobilenavtrend
Yoga mat is the answer to your second question. On my FFR roadster I got star-shaped cracks in the paint on the top of the front fenders even though I had applied several coats of undercoating. I solved the problem by gluing closed-cell foam to the underside of the front fenders with silicon sealant. Worked beautifully for years. On my 818 I have done the same, but I found that a cheaper and better closed-cell foam is 1/4" yoga mat.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Damn, yoga mat, that simple? Missed that on your thread. Bought one at local Canadian Tire shop (not sure your USA equivalent) and will install tomorrow. If it can last 2 years in a 125F every day weather for 365 days, then it should last for 6 months in a 77F weather. lolll
That article is pretty clear, very interesting!
I am now up to the last door, the rear is done apart from engine covers. Not sure I'll finish the front tomorrow as I have to fit the driver's door and install the yoga mat in the fenders.
Yes the diffuser is installed along with belly pan, all with those NICE black countersunk 1/4-20 ALLSTARS bolts from Amazon.
2017-07-31 06.41.02_1.jpg
So far when I look at the rear and side panels from the rear, 3/4 view and side view, it looks so.... so... nah I'll wait until I'm done to show you.
However I'm not sure if my wrap will last more than a couple of drives. It peeled off in a very few (2) gel coat areas and doesn't seem to stick very hard in the fiberglass areas. I added some sticky aluminum tape in those areas to make it last longer. Maybe I just didn't press enough on the film in the gel coat areas, which I did today so I'll see.
Last edited by Frank818; 07-31-2017 at 07:28 PM.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Ya, it will not stick to waxed gel coat (not that you waxed it, it's a type) nor will it stick to waxed resin unless you sand it, then clean it with a pre-paint degreaser and wax remover. Use a fresh piece of sand paper each time as well.
Crap that explains. Too late then. I'll live with the fixes I did and will see next winter. However I did sand before but not used degreaser. Hopefully the caulking will stick better to hold the yoga mat inside the front fenders.
The gelcoat was de-waxed and heavily sanded, should stick well there.
The small areas where it peeled on the outside of the panels were where I had overlaps, so the film not sticking on itself. I seem to have fix it as well, maybe I didn't apply enough heat/pressure at post-installation.
The wrap is very fragile! You drop a screwdriver and it will cut the wrap. This is fixable with paint and clearcoat but not with wrap. Also my left side striker was rubbing SLIGHTLY on the door panel and it cut the wrap. I needed to dremel the striker.
Cannot imagine how bad it will chip on the bottom front side of the side sails, rocks being thrown off by the wheel. Thinking of a mud flap but only this winter, no time before.
I did however apply another layer of insulation for the hot coolant lines and also used the great countersunk bolts on the bumper-to-fenders, works awesome.
2017-08-01 07.41.26_1.jpg2017-08-01 08.20.45_1.jpg
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
" . . . 2 years in a 125F every day weather for 365 days . . ."
Ouch, Frank, you just killed a big chunk of our tourism business. From October thru June we get flooded with waves of people from Canada and other frozen lands, who enjoy sunny days in the 70's, aka the 20's in the C scale. After what the QC DMV is putting you through, you deserve a trip here next winter. Leave your mukluks and mittens at home because the only ice here is in margaritas.
Full-car photos yet?
Last edited by AZPete; 08-01-2017 at 11:01 PM.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
This is how Mr Arizona's yoga looks like:
2017-08-02 07.10.41_1.jpg
On my build I needed EXACTY a 24"x68" mat. I mean "exactly" as in 1mm more or less would not fit.
I'm not sure I put enough silicone sealant to stick it to the fglass, hopefully I did cuz it's kinda late now! I'll know tomorrow. I put some weights inside the fender to press the mat on the flgass. If it works, I'll waste time buying another tube of sealant and will glue the driver's side.
No full car pix yet man, the driver's door took me a LOT of time to align. Since everything is wrapped, I can't mod the panels now. There is still a hard push required on the driver's door to open it, but it closes super well. The pass's door opens by itself by just pulling the handle. I'm pissed, why I have to push hard on the driver's door? Oh well... I'll waste (not spend) another few hours tomorrow trying to find a better angle on the striker or trim it more somewhere, so far both didn't help much.
Once both fenders are glued with super Yoga mats, I'm fitting the front end. I guess by Sunday all should be fitted. It's always VERY LONG to adjust details, that is really killing.
I can already tell the the 2/3s backwards look AWESOME. Opening and closing both doors with inner finished panels on is a great feeling. The car looks very race right now, with the extended diffuser and the black inserts on blue. That really really stands out.
Last edited by Frank818; 08-02-2017 at 07:35 PM.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Some shots of the inner rear driver's side. Pretty crowded.
2017-08-03 13.38.06_1.jpg2017-08-03 13.38.17_1.jpg2017-08-03 13.38.27_1.jpg2017-08-03 13.38.42_1.jpg
There is a problem with ZeroDB's deck lid louver. It's too heavy. It pushes down the fiberglass between both humps so when I open up the lid, the angle of again ZeroDB's hinges rub slightly on the engine cover in the middle where the louver is. I failed to find an adjustment for that. I'll live with it.
Craig, might want to take a look into that. As well as in your front hood hinges, they have the same issue, they make the hood rub on the top of the new nose insert, even after heavily trimming the hood. I had to space out the nose insert which kinda changes the look a little a bit and creates an air opening between the fenders and nose insert.
If you ever fix both of these issues, I'm a buyer for upgrades.
Last edited by Frank818; 08-03-2017 at 07:45 PM.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
3169.5h later....
10h45mins without drinking nor eating today...
Car is ready for inspection.
Not fully completed "to my taste" as there are a few adjustments I need to perform, I don't like how it ended up. But won't fail at inspection for that.
Funny, cuz exactly 1 year ago on Aug 5th, it was my 40th birthday and after rushing a full day fixing the damn custom shift linkage I was able to go-kart the car for the 1st time ever. What were the odds, on my 40th birthday.
Now, on my 41st birthday, the car is completed for the 1st time ever (couldn't drive cuz was still wet outside). What are the odds? And what are the odds 2 years in a row for the first 2 major milestones??
That means on Aug 5th 2018 my car will be registered for the 1st time. How ****ing disappointing. lolll
Many holes weren't correctly aligned on my final "put together". Had to waste days re-drilling holes, enlarging them, and all that with plenty of panels on so less clearance to work with. Now that the wrap is on, there isn't much I can change on the body!
Speaking of which, my driver's door hits the very bottom of the fender at full opening. Damn it!!! It wasn't before! I shaved off the fender for clearance long ago. Now with the wrap, I'm screwed... Only option is to create some kind of black highlight for that area using black wrap. I could shave off more the fender and use black wrap to create a visual style. At the moment I put some C style rubber trim, but it moves when the door hits it.
I'm very disappointed, my driver's door is hard to unlatch (need to push) and it hits the fender. The passenger's door opens by itself when unlatching and has plenty of clearance. Why oh why the driver's side? 3200h and it comes to that?
Some other adjustments like my guess-what driver's side quick-latch on the hood. The angle is wrong and it's hard to use.
The hood also rubs VERY slightly on the guess-what-again driver's side fender's lip and on the nose insert (suing Craig's ZeroDB hinges). Nothing to **** up my wrap but I need to be careful. I raised the hood on the driver's side and it helped but still rubbing. If the guy at inspection plays with the hood opening/closing it, it could scratch the wrap if he doesn't do it the way I found to do it best. I'll have to tell him that piece is very fragile.
A few other things like that. All can probably be fixed in time but I won't now, I want my plate first, I want it so bad, sooo bad... you've got no idea.
Beware guys, installing the splitter and under rad panel when you have the lower opening of the new nose blocked off like me, is a real pain!!!! There is only ONE sequence of installation to follow and you will scratch your arms and hands on CF and fiberglass (if you are alone to do that it's a PAIN). You will sweat and swear. You also need a good 6-pack in order to lift your upper body off the ground for a certain time while you are laying under the car, trying to reach the most fwd bolts. A true intense workout. Made me hit my head countless number of times on the ****ing steering tie-rod ends!
I hope never to remove these elements, but I know I will.
Same thing on the rear splash guards, I used bolts and nuts at the bottom. But the front ones (bolts/nuts) are super hard to bolt when you work alone. Someone with a 1mm bigger arm than mine wouldn't make it. And I ain't got one of those big arms to start with. Should use rivnuts!! This is a TIP.
How does the car look? Well... I'm waiting to go outside to take pix, cuz those pix will go to the DMV as well, but for now I tell ya that the rear diffuser (3" or 3.75? out) and front splitter (3.5" out from bottom of nose) change COMPLETELY the look of the car!!
IT'S A REAL KILLA!!!!!!!
My front bumper color pattern makes the car look really special and my lighting makes it look very angry.
The blue/black is KILLA!
Can't wait to upload pix.
In the meantime, here's the bolt pattern of my splitter, if anyone is trying to find out how to fix it in place in a solid way.
2017-08-05 12.32.37_1.jpg
Last edited by Frank818; 08-12-2017 at 06:57 PM.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Happy birthday frank
Tnx Ben!
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Holding breath in anticipation! Happy belated birthday, and despite the details not being absolutely perfect you have accomplished something tremendous. I hope you take time to feel the satisfaction you are due.
(... ok, its been enough time -pics!! )
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Happy Birthday, Frank!! You've accomplished so much that you deserve a drink or three to celebrate both 41 and a KILLA 818!!
Well, okay, I'll have a couple of drinks, also.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
I also thought that! However this morning when I was about to get it out for pix when I clipped on my s/w it intermittently triggered my horn. An old problem coming back, tabarnak. I thought I'd fixed it.
There are 3 ways to shut that screaming kid off: remove the front splash guards and unplug the plug on the horn; remove the dash and unplug the fuse; unclip my s/w.
None are clever! And a total no-go for inspection of course.
But just about now I think I fixed the problem. It was some dielectric grease that I put on the connectors (2x half a sphere gold connectors) of the hub and adapter. I suspect the grease was connecting all connectors together in a bad connection, making it intermittent.
I also fixed 2-3 other things while I was still working on the car and installed my side mirrors that I somehow forgot! loll Boy oh boy the car looks aggressive and sporty when fully complete, with that color pattern and mostly with the front splitter and rear diffuser. That splitter changes everything.
If tomorrow is not rainy, I guess it should all work, now!
Pete, yes I did, but too much of it, so today I felt a bit sick. loll
Last edited by Frank818; 08-06-2017 at 07:57 PM.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Damn, car is not ready yet.
1- Left wheel STILL rubs on inner splash guard, I have to space out another steering travel restrictor, I think I'll be at 15mm! Fixable though.
2- My horn is STILL intermittently triggered when the s/w is clipped on. Even if I disconnect the wires INSIDE the s/w it triggers the horn! Wow... I had to put an electric tape on the gold connectors inside the NRG adapter and that fixed it. But I won't pass inspection. Maybe the problem is inside the NRG adapter? I can't recall how wires are connected there. But who knows how long it'll take me to fix...
3- The EZ-Cool heat insulation I glued in place underneath the panels will not stick there long. They almost unstick already including some portions of the aluminum foil tape I used. Maybe I should stick the insulation with silicon sealant?
I can confirm that Craig's (ZeroDB) hump louvers are working awesome. Hot heat escapes in vast quantity through both louvers even without the use of my fan located right under the right side louver. Put you hand over one and it's quite hot after running at idle.
2017-08-07 10.25.33_1.jpg2017-08-07 10.25.40_1.jpg2017-08-07 10.25.50_1.jpg2017-08-07 10.26.12_1.jpg2017-08-07 10.26.31_1.jpg2017-08-07 10.26.52_1.jpg2017-08-07 10.27.07_1.jpg2017-08-07 10.27.17_1.jpg2017-08-07 10.27.34_1.jpg2017-08-07 10.27.45_1.jpg
I am now sending 64 pictures and 6 documents to my DMV. That is on top of the previous pix sent since last Feb.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Looks fantastic! Hope you get it registered before the fist snow. When is that, two weeks from now?
Fixed with 21mm of travel restrictors!!
The higher the suspension the closer to the splash guard the tire gets. Since I needed to raise the suspension to its MAX in order to pass the 15" min height for the front side markers, it makes it rub more. And also cuz my coolant tube touches slightly on the alu sheet so it pushes it a little bit outside, that doesn't help either. Not sure how to fix that yet as the tube is clamped with 2 C clamps using rivnuts on the frame. Can't move really.
15mins. That's what it took me. Turns out the wires inside the s/w were connected the wrong way, the - was connected to the + and vice-versa. That also explains the different horn sound I used to have. Now the sound is back to normal, a nice "horny" sound (do you get the joke? loll) and it doesn't turn on intermittently.
Tnx!
Hopefully no snow in 2 weeks, I'll get crazy!!! lolll
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Frank, it is absolutely KILLA, as you promised! I really like how you've followed the blue theme throughout, like the steering wheel, velour interior, blue NACA ducts, the steering wheel hub and even the blue Ricaro logo on the seat backs (how'd you do dat?). It looks aggressive with the splitter, spoiler and louvered vents. I'm sure once you are out in public, guys will be asking "what make is it?" and never guess it is a kit. You make us proud!
Frank, when you get time, I'd like to know where you got the sun visor and the E-brake boot.
Congrats!!!
Pete
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Wow! (actually speechless).
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Tnx guys. I told ya it'd look special, I was speechless for hours as well when I first saw the car fully completed.
Pete, it was part of my design to follow through on the dual colors, you are correct. Some parts were much harder to find.
As for the Recaros, well they are OEM from my Corrado!!! lolll
I wanted to change their color and have the blue and black as well, but I admit the grey with light green and blue stitching is more than cool enough for me at the moment. Electrical and heated seats. Not that heated seats is useful for you but it is for me in spring and autumn!
SUNVISOR
Got off of ebay http://www.ebay.ca/itm/-/121685613528?
It'll say the item has ended but you got a bunch listed on the page.
EBOOT
HA!!!! You'll laugh... that's FFR's old shifter's boot!! I painted it with vinyl paint and used it for the ebrake, but it's a bit too big and you have to be creative as to how you organize the too much leather at the front which causes the notch on the ebrake to squeeze the leather. I fixed it, it works well.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
That turned out beautiful, I'm loving the blue
You make us proud! Félicitation
Tnx guys.
Those looking for a solution to launch the 818 with maximum traction, why don't you "simply" implement this?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
The Microsquirt ecm has launch control standard but not planning on using it.
Frank, I missed this yesterday but wanted to congratulate you on a job well done! The car came out amazing and was worth the wait! Hope you are able to get it licensed soon.
Wonderful and amazing job! Congratulations!
Tnx again guys.
Today was very very very special. 1st day in years I was not working on the car. I am organizing the next steps for inspections.
1- Get an official weight certificate (Wed 10ham)
2- Get the parts certified by the police, that nothing has been stolen (Wed afternoon if it goes like what they told me, which is the cop comes to my home and checks my invoices)
3- Go to inspection and fail. I mean pass.
I received, very late this afternoon, my pre-approval from the DMV AS SEEN ON THE PIX HERE!! Which means a the front splitter, a quick disconnect s/w (though it has a security button, which is a question he just asked today) and everything else I can't remember that would be rejected. For the DMV, I am good to go for inspection.
The DMV also told me to watch my front ball joints, as they don't work under compression anymore. He knows about that!!!! Since this design has been approved by FFR, my DMV accepted it, but just warned me.
Whose DMV knows that much about the 818?? None, apart QC's. Now guys, just with this, I think you can picture how deep into a hand-crafted car QC's DMV is...
If the cop thing works out fine tomorrow, then I only need to pass inspection and it's over.
There is one thing I'd like to tell you, after seeing the Eagle Eyes and China LED Strips working outside on a cloudy day, I can tell you do not use these as your lights! These amber Chinese lights are almost imperceptible outside, even on a cloudy day, just imagine when sunny. They are too small and/or not powerful enough. You should either use no lights and no turn signals at all, or get yourself some real powerful lights. But plz don't use those Eagle Eyes and LED strips lights thinking they work just like any normal DRLs and TSs. You will not be seen with those.
Last edited by Frank818; 08-12-2017 at 06:59 PM.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021