I want to run the rectangle singles vs. round....thought I have seen some body shaping to pull this off. The round ones just look a little out of proportion on the rear...thanks
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I want to run the rectangle singles vs. round....thought I have seen some body shaping to pull this off. The round ones just look a little out of proportion on the rear...thanks
It takes bodywork and if you intend to combine the function of 4 lamps into 2 some wiring mods. I know this sounds like a smart azz answer but "How difficult?" depends on the experience of the person doing it.
Jeff
I did mine The short version is I built up the underside with vinylester resin and mat. Then made some 1/4" aluminum templates the shape of the lights and screw them in place. Sand and shape until it looks the way you want it. You will have to modify the wiring to work with one bulb or LED. Lots of threads on how to do that. If you are capable of doing the bodywork then this is not hard.
Bob
Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Holley HP ECU, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 4.10 gears, A/C, PS, PB Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017
I saw someone shaping the area to match the light. No worries about the smart part, for the most part folks here are helpful, but yes azz's as well. Im running a russ francis harness. closing on the end for paint and not happy with the fat round lamps, just dont look proportional , thank you Jeff
Not too bad - check out that section in my bodywork thread that I sent you via PM. For anyone else interested, here's the link... http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...chris+bodywork
Key to getting it right is what was said above about building up the area from below with additional fiberglass, then grinding away material top and bottom on the exterior. I made a couple of metal templates that I bolted to the pads, then shaped the body around those and when done, the rubber gasket for the rectangular lights fit perfectly.
Here are some pics of the process....
First step - adding fiberglass above and below pad area on inside of the body -
Templates in place on stock pads -
Initial grinding with template in place -
Not a lot of filler needed to make the final fit look good -
Finished -
Later,
Chris
"There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
Mk3.1 #7074
This is great info. Part of my build plan is the rectangular tail lights. I just need to learn how to work with glass, starting at a negative isn't going to help.
Jim
Jim - working with fiberglass is actually really easy. Just make sure that the resin you use is vinylester, not polyester, so that it matches what FFR uses. I had never done fiberglass work, but all of my modifications have held up great over the past three years on the road (and four years under sealer and paint). Make sure you get good quality glass cloth, some chopped mat, and maybe a little "flox" (powdered glass), along with the right resin and some MEK (the catalyst that makes the resin "kick") and you're all set. Depending on temperature and humidity, you'll have to add more or less MEK, but it's a very small amount in any case and you can get some of the graduated mixing cups that will help you make sure you are using the right concentration. Color and heat of the cup will tell you if you have the mix right or wrong, too.
I actually enjoyed the bodywork phase the most - even though it was all new - as it was sort of artistic and I became very comfortable once I realized that you pretty much can't ruin the fiberglass so bad that it can't be repaired.
Later,
Chris
"There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
Mk3.1 #7074