Visit our community sponsor
Dad, sorry about the problems with your engine. I'm sure you luck will turn around, sounds like plenty of people are willing to help out, and certainly if you were in My neighborhood I'd be doing the same.
I've used this https://www.summitracing.com/oh/sear...e-block-filler to prevent leaks on an 0.060 over 289 with a leaky sleeve. It never leaked again and it's supposed to strengthen the block. regardless, it saved me a little money, since I had already bought the pistons and machine work for that overbore.
Anyway, I built a SBF 331 for my F5 which needed slight clearancing using H beam rods in an early 302 block, YMMV on the clearancing of blocks.
Now days with the prolific use of stroker kits, rod clearance always needs to be checked, which requires one extra step to mockup the assembly before final cleaning and assembly.
Good luck!
Scott
The new block (Dart SHP) came in earlier this week so now I waiting on my new roller cam and push rod set up to come in.
https://youtu.be/IGYtX-3p7xk
Since I'm spending money, I may as well upgrade and make a few more ponies.
Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-20-2017 at 10:47 AM.
"Since I'm spending money, I may as well upgrade and make a few more ponies."
That sentence resonates with all us overachiever hot rodder types. That might even be the tag line for my build or maybe "if more is good much more has to be better".
Rock on GDG, the car is looking' great!
"Money can't buy happiness.
But,....it can buy horsepower,....and that's pretty much the same thing!"
Words relayed to me by an old sage gearhead.
If it's worth doing, it's worth over-doing.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Hey Gang,
Our Beloved U.P.S. Man Showed Up With The Rest Of My Parts!
That means we pull everything apart this weekend.
Then it is off to the machine shop.
Steve
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
Try Flickr for pictures. It took me a few tries but now I can take a cell phone pic and have it on here in about 4 minutes. I also understand that this forum's picture uploading process works pretty well. I use Flickr because this isn't the only forum I post on and it can be used anywhere.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
Hope This Sucker Comes Out As Easy As It Went In!
Engine Installation:
https://youtu.be/3f1Q4aS5SG4
Last Documented Drive:
https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA
What She Looks Like Today:
https://youtu.be/IGYtX-3p7xk
Wish Me Luck Gents, This Wrench Swinging Banker Is Going To Need It!
Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-29-2017 at 07:28 AM.
Hey Gang,
My pals Donny, Dave & Marius dropped by to keep me from boogering up any more fingers so without any drama, we pulled the engine and transmission today.
https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k
Marius got his first ride in a Factory Five and now wants to build either a 33 Hot Rod or 35 Truck.
Steve
Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-04-2017 at 05:26 PM.
I knew he would be hooked if he got in one!
Mk4 #8340, 351w/427, 3-link, Wilwood 4 piston rear brakes, 3.27 gear, TKO600, delivered June 18th, 2014
That looks way more convenient than an engine hoist. Best of luck getting this thing together Steve!!
I do find it easier than using a regular engine hoist.
Also, I plan to install an overhead I-Beam with traveler like my brother has so that the car does not have to move when pulling an engine.
Just know that most homes are NOT designed to pull engines from the garage ceiling.
The thought of pulling the engine and tranny out with the body on and freshly painted makes me nauseous. I hope you have a one time fix and a good outcome with that chevy engine. I am 19 years older than you and would need lots of "friends" to help me with that kind of task.
Last edited by mcwho; 11-06-2017 at 12:06 PM.
Baghdad Bob
Complete Kit Delivered July 2010, serial @ 7287, Whitby Power Brakes, Whitby Tonneau, Power Steering w HEIDTS PS Valve, Hydralic clutch, 15" Wheels, BFG Tires, 331 stroker w Quick Fuel 650, RPM Heads, Air Gap Intake. IRS w 3.27, TKO-600. FFMETAL Firewall Forward, FFMETAL Dropped Battery Box in Trunk, Enlarged Passenger footbox, Breeze Cubby storage, Breeze Seat Brackets, Herbs Door Panels. Ford ruby red 12 coats.
Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount
Hey Gang,
The new Dart SHP block is getting punched to 4.030" on Friday!
After some consideration, we are probably going with a proper road racing style oil pan designed for the SHP block.
The fancy pan is from Milodon, part number 31506.
http://www.milodon.com/2012-Milodon-...Oil%20Pans.pdf
I can't see cutting corners, since I want to carve corners, and oil is life's blood for all engines so it's time to pony up the money.
The factor to spend the extra cash was related to an earlier thread about oil pans so what the heck, let's get a better pan.
Besides, I've had a taste of 1/2 throttle Go-Kart Tire Spin and my old daily driver just can't cut the mustard like the MK-4.
https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA
Steve
Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-07-2017 at 07:37 PM.
I've had a taste of 1/2 throttle Go-Kart Tire Spin and my old daily driver just can't cut the mustard like the MK-4.
Made me laugh. The first thing I did once my chassis was assembled and at the go-cart stage is set the line lock and burn down the shop with tire smoke until my wife came out to ask me "how old are you?".
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
The Naz Man,
Being young at heart to me means that you can burn rubber at any age.
My street in front of my house wears many black racing stripes and all are welcome to leave their mark.
Da Road Racer,
You've got me thinking about adding an oil accumulator since I'm running a sandwich adapter for my oil temp gauges.
I've got an extra port that could be used to link in a 1 quart accumulator which could be a nice add on so: What-Cha-Think?
Papa Dave
When we set the engine we took great care to make sure that neither the pan nor the transmission hung below the frame rails.
Now I just need to find the perfect pan, so a little more homework is needed before I pull that trigger.
Dart strongly recommends running a standard volume & pressure SBC (Mellings-55) pump, but I'm already running a BBC (Mellings-77).
They said that their "Bottom Up Primary Oiling" is more efficient that the standard SBC "Top Down / Camshaft First" layout.
Hummmmmmm!
Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-08-2017 at 08:53 AM.
Steve, I was thinking the same thing about that extra port on my sandwich adapter but thinking it would be good to have a 12VDC N/C valve that would keep oil under pressure captured in the accumulator when you shutoff the ignition switch. That will act as a pre-oiler when you turn the switch back on to start the car and as a normal reserve when the engine is running like they were designed for. If you add an accumulator, let us know how it works out.
As NAZ says, go for the accumulator!
Even with dry sump it always bothered me that the engine still starts starved of oil. I lusted after an electric oil pump so I could prime the engine first, but the pressurized accumulator idea sounds cool.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Hey Gents,
Check out this pan and tell me what you think:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-31502
It's a Circle Track "Claimer" pan that looks like a oil stock pan.
It is designed for the Dart SHP Block, clears my Crank & H-beam Rods, seems to have good baffling, is shallow enough to be above the frame rails, plus holds 5 quarts of Erral, 6 PH-5 truck filter.
Steve
NOTE: "Erral" is how some fellows that live up in the North think we Southern Gentlemen pronounce "Oil"
Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-08-2017 at 09:18 PM.
Never put a circle track pan on a road race car.
Never put a "claimer pan" on an engine that's not subject to being claimed.
JMHO
i know you are trying to do an oil pan for your chevy but I am in the same boat on my ford. I am now trying to find a baffled pan so I dont have to concern myself anymore with the stock pickup and stock pan. I am trying to figure and justifly the cost and modifications so that I can get my engine together and on the dyno. I am now thinking I am going with the kevko pans as they are affordable and a true road race pan.
F5R9196 Hand built 347 475hp EFI | T5Z | LSD 3.73 3-link | Power Steering | Power Brakes | Vintage Air | 315/35ZR17 & 275/40ZR17 NT555
HAGERTY. DRIVERS CLUB | Texas Cobra Club
https://www.summitracing.com/search?...rd=CTR-15-250T
Here's the one I'm using. Yep, they're proud of em -- just look at that price. But well made with baffling and trap doors to keep the oil around the pickup. Made for stroker motors like the 383 SBC, my sandwich oil cooler adapter fits and it's roughly the same depth as a stock pan (does not hang below my frame and the stock dipstick works). The extra capacity comes from the side wings. Made for carving corners not cutting costs but another option to look at if concerned about oil starvation when taking those highway on ramps at warp speed.
The big issue for me is the SHP block has a right hand dipstic and two piece rear seal so pan options are reduced.
Then there's the clearance issues where my pan cannot exceed 8" in depth, but most go a tad lower.
This one is a tad shallower, plus has an extended windage tray plus a slosh baffle below it like their stock replacement pan.
While a Milodon stock preplacement pan will work, the baffling is limited.
I'll check out Kevko to see what options they may have for a Dart SHP SBC.
They've got one that works with the two piece seal.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-15-244m
Looks like another viable option for sure.
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
Mike,
The Milodon 31502 doesn't have a side kick outs since it is intended for Hobby racers.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/31502/10002/-1
I will be using a center style pick up, not the one that sets back in the right rear of the pan.
Thanks!
Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-09-2017 at 08:03 AM.
We pulled the engine apart today so we are heading to the Machine Shop tomorrow morning.
The Chevy Cobra Is No More, But Will Be Resurrected As The Dark Side Dart Cobra Soon!
Heck, I'm thinking about putting Vintage Mopar DART emblems on the side of the car or maybe the 383 Four Barrel fender emblems from the same era.
Might be a perfect fit where the Powered By Ford Emblems are supposed to go above the louvers so these alternate emblems might just work since both will be true.
Dart Emblem
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3505419
383 Four Barrell Emblem
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oer-2579804
Hummmmmmm?
Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-09-2017 at 04:48 PM.
I like the idea of some alternate emblems.
Check out billet badges.com They can custom make you any fender badge with whatever unique combination you want on it.
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
First you upset the Ford gods with one “those” engines in the Cobra. Now, you want to upset the Mopar gods by using their emblems to identify one of “those” engines. You must have balls the size of watermelons. You are really wanting to play with Karma once you get your car on the road. More power to you.��
Last edited by Bobby Doug; 11-09-2017 at 06:34 PM. Reason: Fix text
Doug
FFR 7995
347 SBF Prestige Mototsports, Moser 8.8 (3.31) 3 Link, TKO 600, Nitto 555s, 17" Halibrands, PS, AC, Heat, Color Redfire Pearl, with Wimbledon White Stripes
Very clever badging Steve. Now adding custom engraved valve covers to that combo embossed with "Cobra Killer" would really stoke the flames.