The package i ordered came from the same Junk yard and included:
complete engine
transmission
clutch
pedals
all chassis and engine wiring and most sensors
ABS
all fuse boxes
steering cluster
gas tank and pumps
instrument cluster
center cluster with start switch
key fob antennas and fobs
ECU WITH PATS delete.
and all sorts of little modules
All of these parts came on a pallet with the headers and cats and engine cradle. I also bought the complete IRS from this car.
Yesterday I got it all connected together and was able to make it run on the pallet!
Talk about cool! A modern engine with all the controls RUNNING ON THE PALLET!
My plan is to start removing components and wires to simplify the harness and essentially save the 1500$ for the controls pack.
I plan to ditch the fuse panel in favor of a condensed one.
Im also looking into MAYBE using the ABS down the road and the inside heating and cooling controls. MAYBE.
Has anyone done this?
I have looked all over the internet to all sorts of forums. I never see ANYONE go this route.
I am pretty good with my meter/oscilloscope and have a little electronics background. I also have a close friend that is an electrical engineer whom wants to help.
As of now I have run into my first problem,
The fuel pump only runs when I first hit the clutch switch after the engine runs for 20 seconds it runs out of fuel and stalls.
If anyone knows what i should look for here let me know
I bought the ford factory wiring diagrams. that should help considerably.
I don't have any experience setting up the Coyote with all the OE parts that you've obtained. I don't recall any build threads attempting it either. With aftermarket PCM's, yes. But not with one from a donor. But three comments anyway FWIW:
If you don't have one already, get an ODB scan tool. Guaranteed throughout the process you're going to throw some DTC's. Might even be something there now to help troubleshoot the shutdown situation you're having. I'd recommend you get one that has the ability to stream data. They don't cost much more and it would probably be useful at some point to see exactly what data is streaming out of the various sensors.
Related to that, one of the major differences between the Coyote DD installation and the crate version is the fuel supply. Mustangs and F150's use a returnless setup. The crate version uses a return style system. If you don't change anything, including the PCM program, you'll need to use the returnless setup. Meaning (likely) the tank, pump, electronics, etc. This link explains the difference if you don't know already. https://www.americanmuscle.com/retur...explained.html.
Finally, your donor setup uses four O2 sensors. Two each on each side. One before and one after the cats. The crate version only uses two. One in each header, and typically cats aren't installed. Even if they were, there would only be the two O2 sensors. You'll either need to change the PCM program or use all four sensors. I suspect the system would throw codes or even go into a limp or power down mode if the rear sensors aren't installed.
My guess is you're going to earn your $1500.
Last edited by edwardb; 11-22-2017 at 06:50 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
My plan is to start removing components and wires to simplify the harness and essentially save the 1500$ for the controls pack.
I plan to ditch the fuse panel in favor of a condensed one.
Im also looking into MAYBE using the ABS down the road and the inside heating and cooling controls. MAYBE.
Has anyone done this?
.
I've done it with a 2011.
Here's the before: IMG_0484.jpg
Don't know much about the coyote engine electronics however the fuel pump (FP) in my other car works like this.
As soon as you get in the car and turn the key to position 2 (not start) the FP will run for 2 seconds and then shut off if you don't start the engine. Turning the key to start powers the FP again. Once the engine is running the DME (German for Digital Motor Electronics...computer) looks at the flywheel sensor, if it doesn't see the FW turning the power to the FP is killed.
Just cam across this thread.
We have done two, but with aftermarket ECU's
We build our own chassis wiring harnesses and ditch the FFR harness. Why you ask. So that we can have modern control interfaces, push button controls, etc.20
Not sure that the work we have done would help you with your wiring issue, however, If you are going to use the Ford MT82 transmission (I'm assuming this is out of a Mustang) the shifter is too far back by about a foot. We have developed a shift mechanism that bolt on and puts the shift in the correct location.
MT82 shifter - $895
Includes:
• FormaCars Billet top mount shifter assy
• FormaCars Billet reverse lockout collar
• FormaCars Mark IV or Coupe rear transmission mount
• FormaCars Mark IV or Coupe tunnel sheet metal for MT82
• FormaCars Shift boot for MT82
• FormaCars Billet shift boot trim for MT82
You’ll need from your donor transmission:
• Shifter lever
• White reverse lockout sleeve, spring & screw
• Shift knob (or aftermarket Mustang shift knob)
We don't have this on our website yet...about a month away.
It's always a choice between two things: Do I have more time than money... or more money than time? LOL. I chose the latter... whether or not it was true!
Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2022 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
@madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com
If you want to see the real magic and frustration, take a gander into the 818 build forums. Over there, using the full OEM controls and dieting the harness is a mainstream approach.