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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Senior Member
I'm a little confused by your pictures. I see the notches carved into the frame mounts. Really hoping that's not related to this issue. Those notches shouldn't be required. At least not for the DART SHP block or the Energy Suspension motor mounts. My response to you previously was based on actual experience with my #7750 Mk4 Roadster build. I also had a DART SHP stroked to 347 and ran into the interference with the Energy Suspension motor mounts and the added webs on the DART SHP block. I contacted my engine builder (Fordstrokers in the Chicago area, very well known and respected) suggesting I trim the DART SHP block. He said "no way" and to put notches in the Energy Suspension mounts to clear. Said it was an easy fix. It's a small notch and in no way compromises the strength of the mount. That's what I did and the build was completed. Just finished it's third driving season, now with a different owner. All good. Great running engine BTW. I looked through my build pictures hoping to show how I notched the mounts, but couldn't find any.
As you found with your research, this is a common problem. Also as you found, not everyone fixes it the same way. Cut an $1800 block or $100 motor mounts. Easy choice IMO, especially since it's an effective fix. Lots of guys use solid mounts, but that's a whole other discussion. I certainly wouldn't for this reason alone. Just not necessary.
Last edited by edwardb; 11-20-2017 at 10:50 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
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This problem is like a two edged sword. You can take some strength out of a big part or some out of a small part but either way there are some consequences. I would try to slot the holes in the mount so neither part gets a spanking. It will change the center distance between the mounts slightly but not reduce the strength. Some small pattern washers or a beveled edge on standard ones may be required to fit under the heads of the bolts because the slot will move the heads closer to the bend radius in the mounts.
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Not a waxer
I'm with Paul---don't cheese up the block. Yes, the mounts are shown on the proper sides.
Jeff
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Thanks for the input guys. I'm not planning on and haven't altered the block at all. I'm in contact with Forte. I'll try to send photos which make it more obvious.
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Senior Member
Exact issue when installing another forum member's DART block; notched the mounts and it went right in...
Chris
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Engine Mounts Notched
I notched the engine mounts.
Had to get a little aggessive with this one. Good thing its grade 8 steel.
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Senior Member
Nicely done! Adapt & overcome...
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More Trunk Mod Mock up
I had a few hours to work on my trunk mod mock up today. I think I finally see how I'm going to complete this...
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That's pretty slick. It never would have occurred to me to mount a battery on its side.
-Steve
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Thanks Steve,
I copied it from 2bking's build. Of course, so far I have fallen short of the original but I think it'll work
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Mark Eaton
Thanks Steve,
I copied it from 2bking's build. Of course, so far I have fallen short of the original but I think it'll work
That's cool, I did the FF Metal battery box mod - that looks easier...
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Mark Eaton
Here are my newly mounted and custom fitted motor mounts!
...If i see a newby like myself talking about using a DART SHP I am definitely going to give him the heads up on the engine mount issue.
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Hi Mark,
I have the same DART block from Mike Forte. Was excited about your progress, not anymore after seeing the mounts issue LOL!
My engine is still sitting on shipping mounts, so I am not sure if I truly have this issue. Will keep you posted.
Thanks,
Martin
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Martin,
Goodluck! I'll follow your thread. It will be interesting to see if you have the same problem.
Mark
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Senior Member
Hi Mark,
You inspired me with your trunk mod. I was thinking about doing something with the trunk area. After seeing your pictures I figured I can do that as well.
I like the battery on its side as well.
One tiny problem was that I didn't have a welding machine. So I searched Amazon and bought one for $99 bucks! For this small project it is a perfect fit.
Last time I welded was back in the high school, but I am sure with some practice it will come back.
Thanks,
Martin
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Senior Member
Mark,
I like your drop trunk modifications and might do the same. I don't have my tank on hand yet, but was wondering if you had looked ahead enough to make sure there would be no interference from the gas tank. I'm assuming not from what I've seen elsewhere but just wanted to check in in case you had looked into that. Great job and you are moving fast on the project!!!
Rob
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Thanks Rob,
I don't think that there is going to be any interference with the trunk. I have installed the tank several times to check but I have't yet completely set up the tank. I'm currently painting the panels and will post of mock up with the fuel tank in place to illustrate. The access panel at the bottom of the drop part of the trunk is a little off and not exactly directly over the sending unit access port but I don't think it will be a problem.
Mark
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12-08-2017, 12:30 AM
#100
Originally Posted by
broku518
Hi Mark,
You inspired me with your trunk mod. I was thinking about doing something with the trunk area. After seeing your pictures I figured I can do that as well.
I like the battery on its side as well.
One tiny problem was that I didn't have a welding machine. So I searched Amazon and bought one for $99 bucks! For this small project it is a perfect fit.
Last time I welded was back in the high school, but I am sure with some practice it will come back.
Thanks,
Martin
That's great Martin. I'll look forward to watching your trunk mod.
Mark
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12-08-2017, 09:20 AM
#101
Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Love Your Trunk Mods & Battery Location!
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12-11-2017, 01:32 AM
#102
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12-11-2017, 01:57 AM
#103
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12-11-2017, 06:55 AM
#104
Senior Member
I didn't use any sort of adhesive on the vent either. 3500 miles so far and no issues. (Of course now I will be checking it again today! haha)
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
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12-11-2017, 07:11 AM
#105
Not a waxer
Originally Posted by
Mark Eaton
I must admit that I am puzzled why something that looks like it should be a closed system would need a vent.
Because as the fluid heats up it expands and the air in the housing must be allowed to exit freely (then return when it cools).
Jeff
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12-13-2017, 12:08 AM
#106
Brandon #9196
I must admit that I am puzzled why something that looks like it should be a closed system would need a vent. Also, I didn't use any sort of adhesive to secure the cheap plastic tube part to the metal nipple. Not sure what to put on there to keep it from popping off and opening my closed system (differential). I'll have to remember to crawl under the car every now and then and check on it.
I will add if you don't vent the case the air will expand as the gears warm up and will force oil out your seals. When it cools you then have a vacuum in the case again messing with your seals and possibly injesting water or dirt over time. It allows the case to regulate pressure as Jeff said already.
I envy the guys that can afford the full kit especially with the irs. I have to hunt things down and get creative with my budget.
Great work mark.
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12-15-2017, 03:39 PM
#107
Senior Member
[QUOTE=Mark Eaton;302213]I took a couple days off and my brother came to town to help with the build. We assembled the engine,tranny, headers in prep for initial install. I went ahead and put on the PS cat and side pipes because I couldn't help myself. Here is my brother with the assembly thus far...
Hi Mark.
Question about the tko600 and bellhousing join. I am prepping to do that soon. Someone suggested that I should dial indicate the bellhousing first. So I called M.Forte to check with him if this was done. He said no, but mentioned that quicktime bellhousing is very well made, thus isn't really needed.
So here I am, thinking what is the right thing to do. Check OR not. It also involved clutch removal. I have no idea how to do that. Plus, don't even have the tools.
Looking at your build, have you done this part?
Thanks,
Martin
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12-18-2017, 09:26 PM
#108
Martin,
So I guess you have your answer from the other thread. I am ordering a dial indicator with magnetic base, clutch alignment tool and a crank turning nut from Summit. We have the same engine, therefore I think the Proform parts 67441 turning nut is what you need and the ACT Clutch Alignment Tools ATFC10. At least I think this is correct. I was ambivalent to remove the clutch but have decided to go ahead and remove it. I mean, what the hell...
I need to get the torque specifications from Forte. I'll let you know what they are when i get them.
I'll post photos for fun, of course!
Mark
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12-21-2017, 09:59 PM
#109
Senior Member
Hi Mark,
I put the engine on the lift today and checked the mounts. Yep, same problem. Easy fix, just like yours.
Thanks,
Martin
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12-24-2017, 02:26 AM
#110
[QUOTE=broku518;305289]
Originally Posted by
Mark Eaton
Just FYI Mark. That exhaust pipe you have attached to the right side of the engine actually goes on the left side. The tab that points up currently should be on the bottom inside of the pipe facing the center of the car, and the flat opening surface of the end of the pipe should point pretty much straight sideways. I suspect you already knew this, but just in case. . .
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12-25-2017, 01:08 PM
#111
Thanks Kevin,
Yeah, Kleiner already pointed that out to me. I had just hooked it up for fun. You know, I prefer to put everything together wrong the first time then redo it. I learn more that way...
And speaking of side pipes I was reading your thread about the side pipes. That sounded frustrating with the welder totally miscalculating his time. I'm thinking about buying some of those flow masters and welding them on myself. That way I can screw it up myself and not rely on the geniuses at the welding shop.
I will probably wait and see how loud they are for me, though. I am the only parent I know who has to turn down the rock music in the car because it is too loud for my teenager!
Mark
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12-26-2017, 11:27 PM
#112
Originally Posted by
Mark Eaton
Thanks Kevin,
Yeah, Kleiner already pointed that out to me. I had just hooked it up for fun. You know, I prefer to put everything together wrong the first time then redo it. I learn more that way...
And speaking of side pipes I was reading your thread about the side pipes. That sounded frustrating with the welder totally miscalculating his time. I'm thinking about buying some of those flow masters and welding them on myself. That way I can screw it up myself and not rely on the geniuses at the welding shop.
I will probably wait and see how loud they are for me, though. I am the only parent I know who has to turn down the rock music in the car because it is too loud for my teenager!
Mark
I should have known that there was nothing I would notice that Kleiner wouldn't have already seen!! Glad he caught it. It's nice to know that you are following in the established tradition of "screw up once, do the same job twice". Don't feel like you are alone in that methodology!
I am really growing to like the Flowmasters sound, and the look is growing on me. The best part may be the significant temperature protection. With your kids around your car, that could be a real deciding factor. The temperature reduction is very significant over the stock FFR pipes. I wish I had thought to measure the working temperature of the FFR's before I had them chopped up. I don't know the exact difference, but I can touch the Flowmasters much longer than I ever could the FFR's. I don't TIG weld, so I couldn't do it myself. If you decide to do it yourself, talk to 2BKing. I had a very nice email from him after my original post about the frustrations of having them built. It is his opinion (and I think I concur) that while they dramatically underestimated their time, the work they did was solid and the time was not excessive for someone that had not done these pipes before. Apparently the angles of the welds are slightly different from right to left. 2BKing has made some sort of a jig to get these angles correct. The shop that did my pipes did not have that advantage.
I have to turn down the music too, but only because my bride tells me to. She says I am going deaf. When I can hear her, I tell her she is wrong! Rock on, Doc!
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12-27-2017, 12:14 PM
#113
Rock On, Kevin!
When the time comes I will definitely PM 2BKing, that guy is a wealth of good information.
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12-28-2017, 09:27 PM
#114
Hi Mark,
I am new to the Forum, but have been following the build threads should I find the amazing space you have to work with, and be blessed with the talent that many others have to make the parts fit and run.
I noticed from reading another thread that the top bolts on your outboard upper control arms were assembled with the bolt side down. Someone commented cleverly that if the nut comes loose, the bolt falls out. I am sure that you have caught that upon final torqueing of the bolts, but thought to mention it anyway. No disrespect intended, have enjoyed the build so far. Best of luck with the car.
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12-28-2017, 10:08 PM
#115
Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Hey Mark,
I really think that shorty headers & cats up front will knock the noise down enough so that it won't be overbearingly loud.
Just my "Chevy Opinion" so good luck and be careful and keep an eye on your hands while working on your beast.
Steve
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12-28-2017, 11:32 PM
#116
I have a secondary location in Medford and can help with any parts you might need . Would love to stop by and see the build
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12-30-2017, 01:44 PM
#117
Originally Posted by
GoDadGo
Hey Mark,
I really think that shorty headers & cats up front will knock the noise down enough so that it won't be overbearingly loud.
Just my "Chevy Opinion" so good luck and be careful and keep an eye on your hands while working on your beast.
Steve
Thanks Steve,
I'm sure you are right, and don't worry I always wear gloves and protective eyewear. And no beer until the work is done
BTW, I was watching one of your Youtube vids, I really like that quick release steering wheel . What is the brand?
Mark
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12-30-2017, 01:44 PM
#118
Originally Posted by
jwd
I have a secondary location in Medford and can help with any parts you might need . Would love to stop by and see the build
Definetely come by. I'll send you a PM
Mark
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12-30-2017, 01:45 PM
#119
Originally Posted by
SerpantFL
Hi Mark,
I am new to the Forum, but have been following the build threads should I find the amazing space you have to work with, and be blessed with the talent that many others have to make the parts fit and run.
I noticed from reading another thread that the top bolts on your outboard upper control arms were assembled with the bolt side down. Someone commented cleverly that if the nut comes loose, the bolt falls out. I am sure that you have caught that upon final torqueing of the bolts, but thought to mention it anyway. No disrespect intended, have enjoyed the build so far. Best of luck with the car.
Thanks for the tip
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01-03-2018, 11:34 AM
#120
Senior Member
Thanks for the pics and details on the engine mounts with the Dart block. I've got the same block, and I'm glad I saw your write-up.
Build looks great!
Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.