Fabbed a hood brace for front. Needed because of big hole i cut for scoop.DPP_33_----000111.JPGDPP_33_----000112.JPGDPP_33_----000113.JPGDPP_33_----000114.JPG
You have to take your time to get it to not hit other parts, it only goes one place!
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Fabbed a hood brace for front. Needed because of big hole i cut for scoop.DPP_33_----000111.JPGDPP_33_----000112.JPGDPP_33_----000113.JPGDPP_33_----000114.JPG
You have to take your time to get it to not hit other parts, it only goes one place!
Does the prop rod fit with that brace?
Have not done the prop rod, but will make something work.
Been working on a bracket for front fenders and lights will be on fenders.DPP_33_-----000111.JPGDPP_33_-----000112.JPGDPP_33_-----000113.JPGDPP_33_-----000114.JPGDPP_33_-----000115.JPG
Will remove radiator to remove and finish bracket.
The fender will be sandwiched between brackets.
Finished the front tender brace.DPP_33_------000111.JPGDPP_33_------000112.JPG
Your garage looks like mine, but, I know where everything is, and if someone moves it.
Any flat service just likes things on it!
The front fenders and brace are all bolted together and work good!DPP_33_-------000112.JPGDPP_33_-------000113.JPG
With all the parts in front of engine had to change the oil line holder and lower water hose(i don't like the ffr water line)DPP_33_-------000111.JPG
I marked and fit body parts but when i bolted in the fender brace and hard bolted fenders it changed some of the fit(every time the radiator is off it changes some, it seems
hard to get back in same place) sooo working on fitting hood - not bad but slow!
Last edited by 1932; 03-11-2018 at 12:54 PM.
Son holding headlight to see where to place them.DPP_33_-------3000111.JPGDPP_33_-------3000112.JPGDPP_33_-------3000113.JPGDPP_33_-------3000115.JPG
OK i love the look!
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Not FFR. The headlights are stock 33 from Bob Drake.
I ordered wheels and tires so after they come in i can work on mounting headlights then bumper brackets, more fun!
I did the same after hearing from several folks that they were cheaply built. I just found, and bought, the head lights I want at the Goodguys show this weekend. They are not the big 9" headlights but were a great price. The buckets I got have LED driving\parking lights and the head light has LED turn signals built into them. I will post pictures on my build thread once they come in. They had to ship the gauges I bought so I had them ship everything so I would not have to carry them around.
Just noticed your build and that you are using a Coyote with the CJ intake...LOL I thought I was the only one? My company makes the intake for Ford so if you ever have an questions / issues, let me know. Anyway, I very interested in updating my headlights. I just finished my build and its the only thing I really unhappy with. I attempted to make the stock FFR pieces look better by powder coating and adding so ornaments, but they stay tight because the buckets are so flimsy. Anyway nice job, love the hood scoop! P.S. you may have issues with the coolant expansion tank if you are not using the Mustang system with the check valve. I making a custom tank now and will share details if you're interested?
Autorama.JPGwiper position.JPG
I am still looking for a place for the overflow tank!
May need to make one to fit.
Her is what I did with the hood prop given the CJ hood scoop. Added a rubber grommet and snapped it into the hood brace.
hood prop with scoop.JPG Hood prop.JPG
Thanks, i have used up almost all room!
That is a seriously awesome solution
My hood did not fit good in back (worked on before) so i made it bolt down in back.Used cut outs from the dash, bent to fit hoodDPP_33_-------33000111.JPGDPP_33_-------33000116.JPGDPP_33_-------33000117.JPGDPP_33_-------33000115.JPGDPP_33_-------33000113.JPGDPP_33_-------33000114.JPG Hood is good now! Will make some handles to go with marker-turn lights.
Doors are back on and work, will work on putting water fall in. Have to fit around roll cage.
Worked on waterfall to make fit and working on four inch aluminum to go over top of waterfall and cab fiberglass to permanently hold top.DPP_33_-------333000111.JPGDPP_33_-------333000112.JPGDPP_33_-------333000113.JPGDPP_33_-------333000114.JPGDPP_33_-------333000115.JPGDPP_33_-------333000117.JPGDPP_33_-------333000116.JPG
The aluminum will mach dash, I think the hot rod needs a little ruff old time look! We will see!
Got the aluminum trem in , will pull and do some polishing. working on the parts to go around the roll cage, same aluminum.DPP_33_-------333-000113.JPGDPP_33_-------333-000114.JPGDPP_33_-------333-000116.JPG
Body work to fix some work i did before.DPP_33_-------333-000111.JPGDPP_33_-------333-000112.JPG
Paint colors - fenders & running boards and everything above stile line ford Bold Yellow 2, sides will be Mitsubishi Plasma purple Effect . Stile line will be Silver.
One stage urethane for inside and base & clear coat outside.
Been working on top i think it is close. I have had problems with this running board-to short and did not mate with fender. Will see next week if i cut the boards and rear fenders. get wheels and tires .DPP_33_-------333-000113.JPGDPP_33_-------333--000115.JPGDPP_33_-------333--000113.JPGDPP_33_-------333--000114.JPG
Work on doors and matching running boardsIMG_7909.JPGIMG_7911.JPGIMG_7913.JPGIMG_7916.JPGIMG_7918.JPGIMG_7921.JPGIMG_7924.JPGIMG_7925.JPGIMG_7926.JPGIMG_7927.JPG
Hey Tom, just curious, how far off was the running board? Just the one side?
The DS was ok but PS was over one inch short, and did not like fender to board fit. So i smoothed out both sides. Not FFR. Get wheels & tires on 9th, will see if more cutting is in order!
Did not like how the front fender and running board came together so i ground filler out and made it straight looking down the side.IMG_7928.JPGIMG_7929.JPGIMG_7930.JPGIMG_7931.JPG
New wheels & tires!
Worked on fiting trunk lid. For all that have yet to do trunk lid (1) Put hinges on BEFORE body (2) work sides so lid fits in but not gaped, then work on top to get lid to fit with body sides, take your time mine fit good!IMG_7933.JPGIMG_7934.JPGIMG_7935.JPG
I wanted the stock trunk handle-locking-. To make it work took Three spacers dam close to the right length - for any spacing- and a piece of square tubing with the inside rounded and put in with short strand filler to make the lock work.IMG_7939.JPGIMG_7940.JPGIMG_7942.JPGIMG_7945.JPGIMG_7948.JPG
Will make the catch later.
Built the other part of trunk latch. wielded base to the 1 inch square tube then made the latch part out of rock crusher wiper, it is rubbery plastic, did not want metal to metal.IMG_7949.JPGIMG_7952.JPGIMG_7953.JPG
Ok all good!
First time for wheels on.
Cut the boards and rear fenders, want them just outside of tire, so i think i need to do the alignmentIMG_7954.JPGIMG_7955.JPGIMG_7956.JPGIMG_7958.JPGIMG_7960.JPGIMG_7962.JPGIMG_7965.JPGIMG_7966.JPG
Looks like need to lower back..
If I could suggest a trick for the split fender in the back, I would suggest feathering each cut edge, then you take a piece of arborite that is at least a couple inches wider than the split on each side, cut it as long as the split, wax the arborite only with a de-molding wax, lay it over the finished side of the split, attach to the top of the fender so its very secure (if using screws predrill the arborite and not the fiberglass and use round head screws, these can be quickly patched after), remove the fender, flip it over, paint in some Gelcoat (if you have some if not a nice wet first layer of fiberglass) on the arborite up to the edge of the existing fiberglass, let the Gelcoat set, then laminate it together with a few layers of mat starting with no overlap on the first layer only (1 oz. mat) and then adding an inch of overlap on subsequent layers (suggest 1 oz. mat, then 6 oz. cloth, 1oz. mat, 6 oz. cloth minimum, I would add another layer of mat and cloth). Since the fender is basically flat this will save a lot of time in aligning and finishing work and will give you the strongest connection between the two. Have fun!!
I kind of did what AJT is saying. I made the hidden inside part more structural and squeezed the glass with a sandwich of 2 waxed pieces of leftover paneling. I could only do a practical bend of 50% of the fender so I did the top first for gravity assistance and I had long reach welding clamps on it to get the inside overlaps clamped. Almost identical approach to Tom's except I cut a curve at the front and narrowed my running boards.
I didn't have gelcoat, but that would have been nice.
Caution: My Fender width with 345's matches the inside of my aluminum trailer...oops...ship in a bottle syndrome. But, I am set up to swap between the original rears and the extra wide dually option so if I trailer it I can put the old set back on.
Working on the alignment IMG_7969.JPGIMG_7971.JPGIMG_7973.JPGIMG_7974.JPG
The alignment was not bad after i got the program right!
After that i saw that the fenders were off, had to lower the PS with spacer inside on fender brace, all good.
Getting ready to glass rear fenders and boards.IMG_7976.JPGIMG_7979.JPGIMG_7982.JPG
All glassted upIMG_7989.JPGIMG_7985.JPG now on to cleanup and finish. Need to make board frame to fit IMG_7986.JPG
Then on to bumper and fab mountsIMG_7984.JPG
Running boards turned out to be more work because of them being cupped, i have them flat and at 180 paper. The fenders have the first primer, will see how good they are tomorrow.IMG_7992.JPGIMG_7992.JPGIMG_7995.JPG
Put fenders and boards on and needed to cut the back and tuck it in to match fender not go around outside IMG_7996.JPGand on front of boards need to round or blend this IMG_7998.JPG
Other wise i am good.IMG_7999.JPGIMG_8000.JPG