Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

[mikeb75]

Mike club. That's some dubious fame right there! At least you can keep your engine Frank.

Platinum Mike club membership requires you to leave engine parts on the highway

Even though it's a PITA for you, I'm enjoying the tear down.

[Frank818]

Nah I'm just a bronze member and so far what I get in return satisfies me in a way I don't think I'll pay to upgrade my membership! loll

[redfogo]

Are you sure you just don't need new valve steam seals on the the leaking valves?

[Frank818]

No I'm not. It's well possible the issue are only the valves, although I did notice an unusual amount of air leaking through the crankcase, but something else might explain that, I don't know. I still need to remove the head to check on internals before I know for sure.

However the engine is already at its max streetable power for reliability. If I keep the rings and pistons like this, one day I will need to change them. If I do it now, it'll cost me a few 1000s more, but the timing is absolutely perfect, during the winter, and one time only. Which means this Spring I start fresh with a new engine capable of supporting 800hp, which I'll stay far of anyway. Since I don't use the car much, the pistons and rings will last forever, no need to get the engine out again.

I will also get the crank polished, superfinished and balanced. Then again no need to remove the block after this winter, if I take care of the car properly throughout time.

[Frank818]

Ok I removed my axles and totally dismantled them. Up to the last smallest clip or bearing inside. Cleaned up all the grease (what a mess!!) and will re-assemble them.

Why I did that? My clicking noise on the rear right and also to prove myself this setup is actually working (or not). I took a bunch of AWESOME close-up pix (tnx to my AWESOME Google Pixel 2) and sent them to Tad Neal at DSS. The best axle guy in the world I tell ya, A1 customer service and he knows what he's doing. Everything on the axles and CVs is totally normal. Not even over worn for the small mileage I did. All marks are where they should be.

This means these CVs can take up the crazy angle I have.

The only thing I need to improve is the inner CV boots wear out WAY too fast (they are compressed due to the angle) and a lot of grainy rubber falls on the lateral links, diffuser and inside the CV boot. Although inside the boot, it stays on the shaft side and does not blend with grease. But I don't want to keep that as is.

2 solutions are possible, maybe 3 actually. Tad is looking into it.

As for my clicking noise... we don't know. I now suspect a wheel bearing. That's gonna be much harder to look into as I need the car to roll at a certain speed, more than what I can push, and it seems to need torque on the wheel to make the noise. I'll think about that one. Maybe going through the hassle of a changing a bearing for the 5th time and crossing fingers I won't do it for nothing.



Good news is now I can dismantle CVs and (hopefully) re-assemble them. loll Another thing to add to my list of new stuff I can do on a car.

[Frank818]

HAPPY TNXGIVING'S EVE to all US buds on this forum!

Fill up that gut with good beer!

[Frank818]

Well I think I found my wheel/axle clicking noise issue.

While I was bolting my wheels back on I mistakenly rotated my passenger's wheel, the side where I have that clicking noise. Guess what, it clicked, like 2-3 times per wheel turn for many turns I spinned. That never happened before when car is jacked or pushing the car.



So I played around with it and it was clearly audible. And then it stopped. I was pissed off. lolll Cuz I had the stub in the hub, which means I could not determine for sure if the problem was wheel bearing or the stub hitting on something, like inside the hub, the splines or whatever. Removing the stub, spinning the wheel and hearing the noise again would tell me it's wheel bearing. I tried everything throughout the day and the noise never came back. Oh well, good news is it's NOT CV, 100% convinced. Which means even though I have crazy axle angles, they take it no problem.



2017-11-26 07.05.26.jpg

Now I gotta decide if I replace again (4th or 5th time) the wheel bearing or if I wait this spring after swapping my CVs side-to-side and testing it (to make sure it's not the stub).
However hearing the sound really sounds like bearings... couldn't tell at first if CV bearing or wheel, but now that the CVs are off, well... ya know.

So far looks promising for this Spring, driving this car finally, damn it.

[Frank818]

This following part will interest Mr longislandwrx who showed interest the 1st time I posted pix of "sort of internal CV boots".

2017-12-04 12.48.40.jpg

They are my new inner CV boots. Called High Speed Aero boots. May have other names too.

The boot is not accordeon-shaped, but straight conical. Therefore even you fold the middle (where the shaft goes in) to the max the rubber just... folds. Instead of squeezing 2 accordeon folds together, touching and wearing out faster than any 100k miles car on the market within less than 100 miles.

The rubber is pretty thick too I don't see how these will wear out in a "too quick" manner.

[Frank818]

"Let's talk about engine, yo. Hit it, Pedro!"


Couple of weeks ago I was where Mike was months ago (and still am). That guy's always a step ahead of me...

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Not so good...

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The High Speed boots are designed for racing. They have 2 small protrusions on the tip of the boot which act as a pinhole when inserted onto the shaft. This is to relieve pressure when the grease gets real hot. Obviously if that happens on the street you either have a problem or are driving like crazy non-stop (and you have a problem anyway). These boots are not supposed to wear out.

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Yes, the towing guy broke my splitter. I was so mad I thought of killing him with my bare hands. But I restrained myself and killed him with a bazooka. You know when you spent 3300h building a car you cannot, simply just CANNOT accept any one breaking your car, nor even soiling it. I was also very mad at my friend mechanic when after just one week at his shop my front end and doors were more soiled than they ever got in 3.5 years.

Back on the splitter, fortunately it's only the resin, I can fix it. But for that I need to remove the splitter. The whole purpose of keeping it on was cuz I had no reason to remove anything at the front as I'm working only at the back and wanted to save me the HASSLE of removing this thing. Now I have to pay for my stupid stupidity, cuz not only I have to remove it, but I have to fix it in a way that it will never be as perfect as it was... in the end when you're building a car or going somewhere with it, never trust other people... on the other hand, I think I'll scrape that splitter many times next summer, cuz I need to learn how low it is. At least I'll be the one breaking it, not someone else!

2017-12-16 07.56.39_1.jpg


25.5yo crank! This thing weighs 46lbs! Shipped it to Bill Schimmel in PA for polishing and superfinishing. As you can see the bearings are worn out. These, along with rod's and thrust's, will be swapped for Calico coated ones. Much much better.

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Failing rings on still excellent OEM pistons. Off to retirement on them too. Will I increase displacement? There's no replacement for displacement, right? Pictures will determine that this winter.

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[Frank818]

While I was at the shop, I found this thing:

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And this is my new wall in my garage. I'm just missing my dyno charts later this summer.

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[Frank818]

While waiting for my engine parts I did some improvements.

3 of them would probably give you guys great ideas to solve the same issues.


There is an area in the front wheel well, behind the shock, where no alu covers the area which may cause dirt and rocks (and water maybe I don't know) to go through.
I fabed my own alu cover using scrap FFR alu.

Then there is that huge area over the wheel and inside for which a lot of rocks go through. FormaCar built a special alu part you can buy for $180 and fit it no problem. EXCEPT, when you have fender louvers. Which I have. I could have bought their part and modifiy it, ending up with unknown results and 180 bucks down. Or buy for $0 my left over FFR scrap alu sheets and fab my own, adjusting the end result to fit.
My design is different, I wanted to strenghten the hood at the same time, which it did. I believe my middle L-shape support can be removed for good but I need to test first.
There still is one area left open close to the windshield. Not sure it's an important area, I have to drive to test it. But I know what to do if I need to block it.

While I was there I also covered the fiberglass so no rocks would hit or break it. I used left over parts of the yoga matt I bought to cover entirely the fiberglass in the wheel well area (THANKS A DAMN LOT AZPETE!!!! ). Silicon sealant glues PERFECT.

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And the last imporovement that may interest you is the area around the air filter which may well suck up hot and very hot air when car is stopped or rolling slowly. Tamra covered this with a different product and design but I think mine will work. Maybe not 100% but surely a great improvement. Yes I still need to make the hole for the 4" filter pipe but that's not a problem. That sheet is velcro fitted, which means removeable easily.

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If you want to reduce engine vibrations all across the power band, reduce wear, increase longevity and hp-torque (maybe 3 to 7hp-tq), Fluidmapr harmonic damper seems the way to go. I bought one for my VR6 and I've seen a guy's VR6 dyno on youtube, he gained 5whp and 7wtq, something like that. But I bought it solely to reduce vibrations and wear. This part exists for Imprezas.


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Now just for fun, a while back I was at a restaurant with a friend and a guy outside was rolling some weed. lolll Not legal yet in Canada but very soon! loll

2018-01-19 12.08.42_1.jpg

[Shawn818c]

I have a whole bunch of VR6 parts if you're ever in need. Block, head, connecting rods, intake, TB etc.

[Doug @ Forma]

I'm not certain that our liners would interfere with your louvers, but I'm not certain that they won't. I'd need some dimensions on where they're located to be sure. For future reference, it'd be good to have those dims if you have a chance.

[Frank818]

I'm not certain that our liners would interfere with your louvers, but I'm not certain that they won't. I'd need some dimensions on where they're located to be sure. For future reference, it'd be good to have those dims if you have a chance.

On your parts thread there was 1-2 measurements you provided and I figured the risk was too high for me. I think very little people have those louvers, therefore your parts are awesome for the vast majority cuz they fit well and work very well, it's been proven. I didn't want to alter that and make it potentially worse, hence not worth for me trying at this point.

The louvers can be fit in various places. I fitted mines there, but they could be a few inches anywhere around.
Oops, just realized I didn't take the measurement from the fender's furthest point near the windshield and down to the front of the louver. If you need that one let me know! Otherwise the below don't tell where they are fitted on the louvers, but with the suspension a-arm pictured in the background it gives a rough idea.

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[Frank818]

I have a whole bunch of VR6 parts if you're ever in need. Block, head, connecting rods, intake, TB etc.

I'm taking note, Shawn!

Are your parts OEM?
My only parts left as OEM are the block (without pan, pump and coolant pipe/housing), alternator and coilpack. loll
We never know when we might need OEM parts, though. A few of those are modified OEM parts, like the head which now features oversized valves and bigger ports.

[Doug @ Forma]

Thanks Frank, I think those will do. To your point, folks who have them can install them in a variety of locations. It might be best for us to provide some more information as to how far they extend under the fenders. That will give foilks the info they need to see if they'll work with their louver set up, or give them guidelines as to how to position their louvers to clear the liners. I'll add that to my (long) list of things to address. :-P

[Frank818]

I agree Doug, tnx.
Yes our to-do list is always very long on these builds. loll


For everyone's pleasure, this is a car that knows how to accelerate! The g-forces must be a lot of fun!!!
So sad an 818 will probably never do that (traction!!!!).

[flynntuna]

Frank, were are you ? We haven't heard from you in awhile. The forum is very quiet here with out you.��

[Frank818]

Good question!

I'm at home, sitting by the window, waiting for my engine parts to come in since Dec 20. In order not to starve to death, I have beer, wine, scotch, gin, rhum, and more to survive.

Ordered 12 parts on Dec 20 to rebuild my engine, one of which was cancelled recently (guy didn't work on the part for 3 months!) and I bought from another place, got it within a week. Out of the 11 parts left bought at one place, I only got 4 on Feb 14th. Still waiting on the other 7, like rods, ARP studs, coated bearings, double-coated pistons, head, etc... I have had something like 20 issues with that order since Dec. It's a nightmare to manage, actually it's harder and more stressful than building and registering my 818!

I missed a Car Show I was invinted at, on Apr 27-28-29 in Quebec City. Hopefully I won't miss other events this year.

I guess in the coming weeks I should get all those parts and rebuild the engine.

I did work on many small updates on the car this winter, the most important I posted pix already. Once I put everything back together I will post a few of the other improvements I did.
I wanted to work on a polycabonate/lexan rear window to prevent exhaust smell but I need Harley's opinion 1st on whether 1/4 or 5/16" thick should be used, as he seemed to say his was wobbling at high speed.

[redfogo]

Woo Frank is back! The man who brings life back to the community! Hope you get everything you need soon! I know the feeling all to well i needed an old engine to be machined a few years ago it took them 6months to bore and hone a block and shave down my crank shaft... keep us updated

[Frank818]

6 months??? Wow that sucks. On the other end I'm happy to see these things did not only happen to me, meaning it's not specific to me or my order. Helps to know that, but sucks to know it sucked for others too. lol

[Frank818]

FINALLY!!!

Got more parts, still missing big valve head and high flow billet alu water pump, but I have everything to START the rebuild and close the block. My vendor delivered me the pistons and rods in person Saturday at 4PM. He did a 2.5h drive for that and gave me $USD700 worth of parts as moral damages for all the nonsense delays.



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Ceramic dome, teflon skirts, 355.7 grams each balanced. Only 0.5 gram between lightest and heaviest, JE's are really good, although they cling-cling-cling on cold startup, I've heard. The wrist pins are superfinished, 122.5 grams. 0.1 gram tolerance, those are awesome.


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Rifle drilled rods (but my Calico coated bearings are not, darn), 636 grams each about.


The rod bolts are rare (and expensive) ARP 625+ which sustain even more tensile strength than common ARP 2000s. They have a high weight tolerance though, up to 2.3 grams between the lightest and heaviest. And they weigh about 27 grams. Was puzzling to balance the rods with those.


In the end I couldn't. You absolutely need a rod balancer or a SECURE way to support the rod ends while weighing. I tried but a slight angle movement and you're off. Couldn't get weights stable so I decided to weigh as a whole. I know it's not good but it's still better than OEM! No I cannot buy a rod balancer, I have to bring those parts Monday morning (tomorrow!) at the shop, I had only ONE day to do everything and it was a Sunday. I am 2.5 months behind schedule, which is killer in QC cuz warm weather doesn't last long.


The rods also have a high weight tolerance, up to +/- 6 grams! Which means 12 grams between lightest and heaviest. That is really bad!!! I could've bought rods with +/- 1 gram. I shaved down to 6.5 (+/- 3.25), didn't want to go further for unknown structural effects.



This engine will be overkill for the 818. 550-600hp is ridicule on this car, especially without traction control and small 265 tires (Adam you rock on 305s!). But I wanted something that will last forever, with low friction, high exhaust velocity/heat and best balancing as possible.



I don't think this car will be ready to be driven "normally" (i.e.: flooring it) before Sept 1st. Lost 75% of my summer and many possible events.

[Frank818]

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[Frank818]

2018-04-02 11.14.18_1.jpg

Polished and balanced crank from Utah.



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Injector Dynamics (US made, right?) ID1050x running at 1260cc.

Looks like most of my parts are made in America! Trump would be so proud, exporting as much as possible and importing nothing.

[Frank818]

Tabarnak, finally got all my parts now.

This big head (+1mm valves, bigger bore, 8500rpm but don't think it's safe over 8200) is advertised as a 2-3week lead time. Took 27 weeks!!! And the guy uses abrasive paste to bore the runners so overall it's a less than 10h job! So pissed off but anyway.

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There is a little bit of pitting in 2 places but that's nothing, the gasket will completely cover that. Maybe the previous owner had a coolant leak and it rusted, apparently it's common on the 12V.

Just before I got the head, my vendor turned around and ordered a big head from Germany because the supplier from PA (Bill Schimmel) was unable to build his and was lying to my vendor as to when the head was ready (he was trying to buy time). He did build it in 1 day later on. I should receive the 2nd head this week. For free... my vendor (INA Engineering-Issam Abed) is GIVING me a 2nd head! That's worth like $1500 to $2000US.


This is the high flow water pump.

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My mech told me he should rebuild everything by end of Aug. Since I lost my slot this winter it's harder to fit me between other clients as he was booked from winter to late summer.
I pushed back my vacations 1 month, to end of Aug, so I can use all of them (for the 5th summer in a row) reassembling the car, tuning the engine and break-in it in. Hopefully I can drive it before winter.


Should I sell everything and buy one of those (yellow or red far back in garage)? Sorry for the zoom on the phone.

2018-06-25 16.09.43.jpg

Or maybe this:

2018-06-08 11.50.32.jpg

[Frank818]

Crap 3 months without looking at the forum, a record in 5 years. It seems the unread posts have reset at some point as many posts prior to Sept show as read but I've never read them so now I totally lost it. At least I was able to find Andrew818's thread and respond to his car accident.


Well after waiting and stressing out 7 months (2 months delay for parts and cuz of that, 5 more months delay from my mech cuz I lost my slot), my mech will FINALLY start rebuilding the engine on Monday 24th. About a week of work, then I get the car back at home, replug everything, design/install my new catch can solution, re-align wheels, fix a few things for which I need the engine installed and then ready for a first start. I should be able to start it in Oct, I should be able to drive it in the driveway in Oct but I don't know if I'll be able to drive it on the street in 2018. Depends if the fuel tuning goes quickly.

Lost a year, totally. Oh well.

In the meantime I got my FREE thick aluminum oil pan from INA Engineering. Solely for longitudinal VR6. Weighs 8lbs.

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[AZPete]

It's good to have you back, Frank! It hasn't been as much fun without you, so please don't leave again.
That's an amazing oil pan!!

[Canadian818]

That pan is sweet! Welcome back, I don’t frequent the forums very often anymore but I did notice your absence.

[Frank818]

That's super sweet guys. But hold on...

My mech called me this morning and told me the pistons PLUS rods are wrong. Yup, you heard that, I waited 5 months for him to tell me that. I told him to start the rebuild earlier in case something big would happen but back in May he said he was confident all would be ok and he didn't want to make another client wait 1-2 days in order to validate what he just validated now.

Now there is no chance this crap can run before May 2019.

Pistons are 88mm, no VR6 can take more than 84mm and that's stretchy aftermarket! Turbo VR6 maybe 82.5mm. I ordered OEM 81mm, that's 7mm!
Rods are too small on the crank diameter. They may fit R32 24 valves VR6 but I got a VR6 AAA first get 12 valves.

New set of rods will come in tomorrow, I will validate the fit on Friday morning.

As for the pistons, they are the most complicated part to get I've ever seen. Took a full 6 months in 2018. So I don't know how that will end up...

I don't deserve any of this crap, I don't understand why it all happened but something doesn't want me to run this car.

I hope RetroRacing reads this, when I told him I knew how he felt about his multiple engines.

[STiPWRD]

But look on the bright side, you can take the next 6 months to learn about engine building and ditch the mechanic. I didn't know I could do it until I tried it for myself. You're right, you don't deserve this crap, I certainly wouldn't put up with these sort of delays.

Another thought is to have an engine shop machine you the larger pistons based on the ones you have, a shop that is knowledgeable about the required finish, heat treatments, etc.

[AZPete]

Frank, I think STiPWRD makes a good point. I've just looked back at your long build thread and found that you've learned a lot - suspension, braking, e-brake, tranny, mods to frame and panels, CV joints, wiring, and lots more, plus welding. You've got smarts, persistence and endurance, as shown with the licensing maze you figured out. I'm confident that you could DIY your engine to save a bundle of time and money. Plus, it would be rewarding. I've just finished engine work and, like STiPWRD wrote, "I didn't know I could do it until I tried it myself."

[aquillen]

I guess you know if it were me, I'd go for doing the engine work myself too - at least anything I could learn/figure out - afford tool wise. Education and just more fun. Yah I think headaches are fun too.

[Sgt.Gator]

That really barfs!

[Frank818]

Yes I have been thinking of doing it myself for 1 year now. but the most important thing to me is to get this job done as QUICKLY as possible, which is not good when you want to learn how to build an engine. But I'll see what I can do. My only energy left at the moment is to reconnect coolant-wiring and then run the car. Maybe in a month I'll have enough energy to deep dive into the engine myself, who knows.

Funny part is I got the right set of rods the day after I contacted my vendor. Pistons, I decided to increase bore in order to get IN STOCK pistons instead of custom-wait-longer pistons. But they need coating at JE so they are there now and I have to wait. That's the longest part, the stupid coating. And once I get them, I need to bring them along with the block to a boring shop (not affiliated with The Boring Company) and bore to 82mm.

Then the rebuild, whoever will do it, will start for good.

[turbomacncheese]

This engine is definitely not one to get impatient with. Having done my own rebuild, I wish I could go back and budget a few more cases of beer for this one.

[Frank818]

1+ year after ordering my pistons I still didn’t get them!
You have no idea all the issues I went through, recently my vendor’s driver not picking up the part at his depot for 2 weeks in a row and then the pistons had skirts coating but no dome coating, sent back to JE, etc…

However on Dec 17^th I got refunded by my 1^st vendor., even though at first there has been an issue during the process (of course). I got lucky on that, who would refund 1 year later…
And then pior to that on Dec 3^rd after discussing with a 5^th vendor (some said they were prepping an invoice and I never got it) I ordered my 4^th set of pistons for this year. 2 of them I never got, one was totally out of specs and the 4^th one has JUST been shipped from JE to my 5^th vendor. Exactly 3 weeks like the guy said.

I also ordered a set of ARP625+ which my 1^st vendor couldn’t deliver and refunded as well. Overall it cost me $245 (US185) more with my 5^th vendor than my 1^st. That’s nothing!!! If I had known before I would have done this last March!


While I was waiting longer for the pistons, might as well add in some value. I paid an extra US122 to get upgraded H13 tool steel wrist pins. Thinnest possible walls for my application (.155) while keeping high strength. Less weight, that’s perfect to reach my goal of a frictionless and lighter (more optimal) engine. It cost me a year but anyway.

So unless CNC Motorsports in South Dakota runs into problems I should get the pistons at the start of new year, I'd says before the 11^th. In such a case around beg of March I would start up the engine in my garage and evacuate the fumes through the garage door in the cold, allowing me to at least tune the fueling start up, idle and RPM blips.

Then I fix leaks (there will be!), reinstall the body and when the first driving day comes, I will be able to tune on the road and go for a 1500km break-in period. It won't be funny cuz I need to watch my computer constantly and adjust fueling and stuff until I get something safe.

And then on to the dyno before the summer to fully tune and power tune for my 500wtq goal.


And then having some “real” fun.


I would like to thank the entire forum, people are so awesome, so helpful, so kind, it’s like having a second family. I got many help, support and words of encouragements from people here, on the forum but also outside the forum from people I got to know on the forum. Really helped me keeping up with the baddest year I’ve ever had in my life. When everything that can do wrong did go wrong, it’s hard to come back.

[Frank818]

Now it’s time for Holidays, the season’s upon us!





The season's upon us, it's that time of year
Brandy and eggnog, there's plenty of cheer
There's lights on the trees and there's wreaths to be hung
There's mischief and mayhem and songs to be sung


There's bells and there's holly, the kids are gung-ho
True love finds a kiss beneath fresh mistletoe
Some families are messed up while others are fine
If you think yours is crazy, well you should see mine


My sisters are wack jobs, I wish I had none
Their husbands are losers and so are their sons
My nephew's a horrible wise little twit
He once gave me a nice gift wrapped box full of ****


He likes to pelt carolers with icy snowballs
I'd like to take him out back and deck more than the halls
With family like this I would have to confess
I'd be better off lonely, distraught and depressed


The season's upon us, it's that time of year
Brandy and eggnog, there's plenty of cheer
There's lights on the trees and there's wreaths to be hung
There's mischief and mayhem and songs to be sung
They call this Christmas where I'm from


My mom likes to cook, push our buttons and prod
My brother just brought home another big broad
The eyes rollin' whispers come love from the kitchen
I'd come home more often if they'd only quit *****in'


Dad on the other hand's a selfish old sod
Drinks whiskey alone with my miserable dog
Who won't run off fetch sure he couldn't care less
He defiled my teddy bear and left me the mess


The season's upon us, it's that time of year
Brandy and eggnog, there's plenty of cheer
There's lights on the trees and there's wreaths to be hung
There's mischief and mayhem and songs to be sung
They call this Christmas where I'm from


The table's set, we raise a toast
The Father, Son, and the Holy Ghost
I'm so glad this day only comes once a year
You can keep your opinions, your presents, your 'Happy New Year'
They call this Christmas where I'm from
They call this Christmas where I'm from

[Scargo]

I can't fathom what you are going through. Pistons being made in South Dakota? A year to get parts! Yes, I've waited a month for custom JE pins.
Sounds like the Twilight Zone! I would change vendors and try to go mainstream.
I can't believe that being in CA makes that much difference!

[Mitch Wright]

Frank Merry Christmas and have a GREAT New Year. You deserve it.

[Frank818]

I can't fathom what you are going through. Pistons being made in South Dakota? A year to get parts! Yes, I've waited a month for custom JE pins.
Sounds like the Twilight Zone! I would change vendors and try to go mainstream.
I can't believe that being in CA makes that much difference!

I ordered from a place in Canada a year ago. He has US providers for JE pistons. He tried 3 of them, they all failed miserably.
On Dec 3 2018 I ordered from CNC Motorsports (great people so far!!!) and the guy told me "3 weeks", even though JE themselves told me they were BOed on the pistons until Jan 4th (I wanted to order from them directly). It took exactly 3 weeks and JE has shipped, Friday, the pistons to CNC. A few more business days and CNC will ship them to me.
Pistons are made at JE in CA.

Frank Merry Christmas and have a GREAT New Year. You deserve it.

Tnx Mitch u 2! After all these efforts I at least deserve to drive that car, yes. It seems I don't get to decide whether I drive it or not! Hopefully 2019 will put an end to that curse.