Nice! I like your bracket idea - simple yet effective - and I'm sure the angle helps.
As small as that heater is it really puts into scale how little room there is under the dash - how little space there is in this car in general!
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Nice! I like your bracket idea - simple yet effective - and I'm sure the angle helps.
As small as that heater is it really puts into scale how little room there is under the dash - how little space there is in this car in general!
Gotta love triangles It's certainly very strong now, but we'll see if/how the pop rivets fatigue after 1000 miles of vibration. I may swap for rivnuts instead.
Yeah, I have no idea how people work with coyote computers and AC.. I feel like I have so much room, and I probably have a cubic foot left
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
We ended up buying the same heater and will be installing it this weekend. We will be using Rivnuts and also we sourced all our fittings from Racetronix, www.racetronix.com, which have all the fittings including bulkhead and rubber hose adapters to AN. I ended making the decision to go to rubber braided hose as well for all the heater hose. Will post pics once done, will be plagiarizing your bracket system, really like that especially for wiring.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
I was lucky to finish work early today and since I have a deck project waiting for me tomorrow I grabbed some time in the garage.
I finished the heat shield/mounting bracket for the heater valve (controls the temperature) and then managed to get one of the bulkhead fittings drilled. Got another hole to drill level for the other bulkhead fitting and I'll bolt the heatshield to the firewall with some right angle aluminum inside it - or I may just use another four screws to attach the valve to firewall.
heater-valve1.jpeg heater-valve2.jpeg heater-valve3.jpeg
heater-hose1.jpeg heater-hose2.jpeg
I'm happy with the way it went together, looking forward to finishing and getting hoses on soon
Last edited by RoadRacer; 03-23-2018 at 06:25 PM.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
As expected, my new deck took almost all my time, but I wanted to make some progress so I got the inside hoses on
topheaterhose1.jpeg topheaterhose2.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Changed the plug leads - probably my first unnecessary splurge. The motor came with yellow good ones, but I hated the color on my black on black car, so I found a nice black braided set that match my DUI ignition https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-c9051bk
This is my first under header set, and they worked out perfectly. Perfect length, and now almost completely hidden. I'm so stoked! haha
Compare before and after.. still have to tie them up from headers.
32grill-front.jpeg
blackwire1.jpeg blackwire2.jpeg blackwire3.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Lots of rework this weekend.. same times you just gotta bite the bullet. All comes from fitting the heater. That meant I should revisit my decision to put the fan thermostat in the intake manifold, because the heater needs that spot. And although I made that decision on purpose, in hindsight I've changed my mind. Why keep the fan running until the engine cools off naturally? Seems silly. So I moved the thermostat into bottom of rad, where at least the temp is relevant and somewhat affected by the fan running.
So that meant removing rad, and undoing all the pretty wiring I'd done, because I needed the alternate thermostat wire. Got that, re wrapped and heat shrunk and all back together nicely. While the radiator was off I made some simple bottom brackets for the radiator, so it now uses one at top and bottom. I didn't like it attaching just at top and swinging in the breeze. But a very light weight bracket that will be sacrificial if I nudge something. I'll round it off a little and pretty it up.
bottom-rad-mount.jpeg
I also did some prep and paint on my heater valve mount/shield, but I decided to order some 120deg fittings rather than 90, so I'll update all those photos of heater fitting once I'm done.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Engine finally running again after adding heater, moving fan thermostat and final fixing of radiator/grill.
https://youtu.be/OtUZKhfbN-A
Here are the final heater photos, showing the hoses from intake and water pump, up to servo heater valve then through firewall. I made this cover from my .125 aluminum since I'm going no-hood, no-side so this cover looks nicer and helps protect the servo a little from heat and road debris. Third image shows without the cover..
engine-restart-outside.jpeg heater-hoses.jpeg heater-valve-nocover.jpeg heater-valve-cover.jpeg heater-valve-cover2.jpeg heater-hose-side.jpeg
At some point I'll create some simple aluminum brackets to attach hoses to chassis tubes
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Following on from my earlier post, I've used a mechanical pump on my SBC and it works great; cheap, parts-store-replaceable etc.
BUT my carb bowls are empty every single time I go to start.. presumably a symptom of modern gas evaporating after engine shutoff. With a mechanical pump that means a lot of cranking and accelerator pumping.
Looking on forums like HAMB, many there add a cheap electric primer pump by the tank to prime the carb before starting. Flick the switch, wait a few seconds (if it's like my GT40, you do this until pump noise changes as pressure goes up to 6psi) and then start the engine without looking like a dumbass. Saves your battery and starter motor too. Then after start I'll turn off the pump (although might be a nice backup for high speed runs)
So I'm getting a summit pump and looking at the ron francis wiring I ignored before. Found the pump end wiring, but at the other end.. nothing of course. I need to add the switch. On first glance it looks like the light brown wire, so I'll trace that down and cut into it. I may even add the switch between the seats, where my battery cutoff switch is too, rather than the dash.
UPDATE: After getting to know all the wiring, relay, inertia switch etc I decided to add my new switch into the ground wire of the inertia switch, i.e. before the relay. I could have used a low amperage switch, but I have 20A switches anyway so I could have broken into the power wire but in the end wanted it in dash next to ignition key.
Last edited by RoadRacer; 04-29-2018 at 05:58 PM.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
After wiring in the switch for electric fuel pump I finally fitted the battery cutoff switch between the seats, and the remote battery jumper posts in the trunk in the middle next to the fuel tank. Although you can't see final fit in this photo, you can see how it all went together.
The battery cutoff won't be used when car running, just as a safety when working on car..
battery-cables.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Had the fuel tank out today and added my new summit fuel pump and moved the fuel filter. All back together now and wired up so I started the car hopefully for the last time using starter fluid - next time I'm hoping the pump will prime the carb and the car will start straight up.
Time will tell..
fuelpumpback.jpeg fuelpumpfront.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
More on the fuel system.. I've added a fuel pressure gauge and regulator just for peace of mind more than anything; I didn't like not knowing the data! Without the regulator my electric primer pump was showing 11psi (it's a 4-7psi pump!) and my mechanical was showing crazy madness between 3-11psi.. mechanical are I guess "pulsing' pumps so the gauge was unreadable. So with the regulator OOTB it's supposed to be set for 6.5psi, and that's exactly what it reads on the mechanical. so that's good.
I made up a little bracket from aluminum to attach the regulator to the intake manifold.
regulator1.jpeg regulator2.jpeg regulator3.jpeg
As far as the original problem I was trying to solve - engine wouldn't start for 30s after being left for a day or two - this all did the trick, with one slight twist. I'm not sure why, but the weird carb I got with the engine (an edelbrock/weber mech secondary) needs choke to start, even in 90+deg weather!
Yep, I tried everything to start this, but unlike a holley there are no (visible) accelerator pump squirters when you pump the gas on a full carb. So, it just won't start with just pumping and turning. But pull out the (now mechanical) choke and it starts within 2 seconds every time... and you can (must) push in the choke immediately. Idles and runs perfectly once started.
So I don't know why the choke thing, but whatever, doesn't matter to me. It's super reliable and fast to start now.
Next, I bled the brakes.. man I wish I'd done this earlier. Seems many put this off like I did, and guess which was the only joint to leak.. the 3 way block under the front shocks which is almost impossible to get at. I managed to get at it just enough from under the car.
The bleeding I did with the vacuum trick I read here, sucking fluid through to the caliper, then did the traditional dad/son bleeding to finish it off. The rears were surprisingly easy and had little air, but the front took a good pint through before going solid. I measured the MC rods and they move about .370 from relaxed to full-on and the pedal (with currently centered balance bar) moves about 1.5" until firm, with another 1" or so if you really get on it. Don't have a driveway here so I'll have to trailer it somewhere to set the brakes up further.
(Btw, I'm using stock brakes from kit and GT rear, with the stock .62 rear, .75 front MC)
Here's the son doing the grunt work on the pedal
bleeding.jpeg
Last edited by RoadRacer; 05-19-2018 at 05:38 PM.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Are the fuel bowls still empty after it sets and you have to have the pump prime to refill? They either are evaporating out the bowl vents or leaking out the bottom. You don't want that fuel running down a port and washing off the lubrication on one cylinder all the time. The choke was helping you vacuum fill the bowls? Might want to check how rich it idles.
With this carb it's hard to tell if the bowls are empty.. but I'm assuming they are evaporating empty. When I prime with pump it takes a few seconds to go from 0-6 psi. Before I did the priming, I couldn't get it to start for 30+s seconds (the mechanical pump). I'll check mixture, thanks..
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Been a while.. vacation in UK and Italy, then came back to find I'd been laid off! So, back on the job hunt again, but have some interviews lined up next week.
I don't have much to do until I can buy transmission package from Forte, or stage 2 from FFR, and those are on hold until new job is found, but I did want to do a rough front-end alignment, so I did that this morning.. very rough
Centered the steering ball joints, then wound in/out the steering arms, and adjusted the rear LCA to get rough camber. Haven't touched the front LCA cos I'm not sure what to use that for - caster perhaps, but not convinced. Anyway, camber and toe are now close enough for go-kart.
rough-alignment.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
That sucks... best of luck on the job search!
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
I hope they were better than one of the last companies I worked for. I was 4 hours into a two week vacation when I got a phone call that all the photographers had been let go. I was then told that they were not paying my vacation time either. I had saved all my vacation time to take this trip and they left me with nothing.
Thanks Mike, Tim, the job search is already going well luckily - I make sure to keep a big network of connections I (basically) manage software developers so it's quite a small world.
They didn't give me any warning - in fact the new CTO said he was very happy with what I was doing right up until the day they let me go haha!. And the next day his long-time friend joined in my place.. shocker
I was lucky to get severance this time, so that certainly removed some stress. Being left with no pay while you search sucks - been there too.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Funny, I used to be in here every day - now it's once a week on Saturday morning as a treat!
New job, fast-running startup, lots to do at work - and nothing to do in the garage. Stage 1 is done, although I did order the updated fuel tank so I'll have something quick to do to swap that out when it comes. But then I'm waiting on stage 2, and I doubt I'll even order that until 2019. sigh
But before even stage 2 I need to order transmission to make it go-kart. You either have loads of time or loads of money, but right now I have neither! BRB
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
ADMIN EDIT: Commercial post removed.
Last edited by David Hodgkins; 08-11-2018 at 01:35 PM.
Got my new-style fuel tank. Here are pics comparing old (mine was Mar 17) to the new (I think they came out around Feb-Mar 18?)
Top fill now, so faster to fill, and won't keep shutting off the pump flow. Also the sender is integrated into pickup, on top. The old one was below fuel level and could leak. I ordered this "retro fit 33 tank" from FFR, and it comes with pickup/sender and new aluminum vertical panel. You reuse the vent fittings and all hoses from original kit
newtank1.jpeg newtank2.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Yeah, I don't think I got a special deal - my order form shows it as "part #34197, 33 FUEL TANK RETROFIT". Cost was $260 + $52.42 freight to San Antonio, Texas.
As I said, it came with everything you need to replace the old tank. New aluminum, new fuel pickup and fuel level sensor, gasket to use fuel filler (now screws direct to tank). Direct bolt-in replacement - even the attachment holes lined up. I had to shorten the fuel line a few inches, that's it.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Do you also have to modify the aluminum panel that sits behind the fuel tank to accommodate the fuel fill extension?
Ryan
33 Hot Rod
350 SBC with TKO 500, 3 link rear
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Good pic and need to ask,,,,,, I will be going SBC W/ TKO600 in my 33' ( Due to me very soon ) also and it looks like you have plenty of room to run the factory style Dist with built in coil. Am I seeing that right???? I will use the small base dist with remote coil if I have too but I want to TRY Not to hang a lot of extras on engine and firewall. Nice job.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Yeah Jim, I was lucky that way.. already had two external pumps.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Ha! Found a deal for a hardtop and power window kit that I couldn't resist, so put that on a credit card as my Christmas present. Still waiting for money for stage 2, but just having a roof makes it look better. Man, it already feels smaller inside the cab!!
roof1.jpeg roof2.jpeg roof3.jpeg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Hey Guys, I’m back
It’s been a while since I’ve been here - doing the startup thing and have spent 18 months working hard and not getting paid for it(!) so the hotrod had to be paused. But finally I found some money and just got my new TKO600 and associated parts from Mike Forte so I can get this thing finally driving. Driving without stage 2.. but at least driving round the neighborhood!
I also fitted my fave carb, 650dp, to replace the weird edelbrock that came on my motor and never really worked well.
I wouldn’t be surprised if you all are different people after 18 months, but I’ll start catching up on what’s been going on around here. Good to be back!
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Welcome back!!
33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.
Thanks! Good to see some familiar faces still here!
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Worked on the transmission today and had the usual fun issues. Got the flywheel on ok, then clutch, but one of the lockwashers kept getting caught on one bolt and splayed out befoe hitting the torque. Never seen this before - the lock washer ended straightening out. It was catching on a burr under the bolt. After going through three washers, I replaced with a flat washer and loctite instead.
Then I hit a snag where the 5/8 thread in the Forte-modified fork needed cleaning up but I didn't have a tap that size. Dozens of taps and no 5/8! Local stores didn't help, so off to Amazon and one will be here tomorrow. Fitted the transmission mount and dug out a few more parts I need to do before I can gokart - e.g. accelerator.
Still not sure what shifter I'll want, or which position to choose - leaving it as rear-most position for now.
2020-02-15 16.48.19.jpg
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Oh what fun car building is
So.. next step was bellhousing and fork installation. But the fork needed re-tapping so I did that first. The threw it all together and immediately notice a problem - the clutch was literally depressed just by installing the bellhousing. No air gap. The fork was jammed up against the bellhousing opening, and the release bearing was depressing the clutch. Shorter pivot needed perhaps? Yes, maybe, except it's only 1.75" long now, and I need perhaps an inch shorter. Then there would be other issues with that.
Just as bad, installing all this kit on the 33 means I lose foot room. I have to cut the floor to go around all the brackets and fork. I want to make MORE room with my aluminum trans tunnel, not less!
2020-02-17 09.05.04.jpg 2020-02-17 09.27.19.jpg
Another thing.. running the clutch cable to the fork is a minefield of hot things. The oil filter gets in the way of the optimum cable run. I'd have probably have to wrap the cable in insulation. The whole thing is becoming a mess. I chose cable to keep the build cheap, but this is crazy. And I spent money on cable, optional quadrant pedal, firewall adjuster, forte kit.. I bet I haven't saved any money LOL.
I called Mike Forte and he has no problem taking the brackets, fork, etc back, so I'll do that and undo all my work to this point and install hydraulic. Lesson learned!
What is the preferred hydraulic solution? On my last car I had an internal mccloud, and I'd prefer internal to save on foot room. But I see some have external cylinders on cobras. I suppose they're easier to replace if needed, but is that worth it?
FFR have an SBC manual that suggests "Keisler Hydraulic clutch actuator kit: CAG-HWSRTKO" - at least my 2017 version says that. Any other suggestions? Who's build thread goes through their hydraulic clutch install? I have some spare brake master cylinders, will one of those work? I'll have to disassemble the quadrant pedal and see what I'm missing, and plus the hole in the firewall.
"Kit cars are easy" lol
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
I used modern driveline slave cylinder kit. I originally had installed the cable with clutch fork and the foot pressure was way too much for my liking. ending up keeping the fork and throwout to use this style kit.
https://www.moderndriveline.com/prod...rs/ford-slave/
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100