Alright, giving this a shot. I figure posting the progress will hopefully help me dodge some bullets and maybe even help others through my mistakes and success.
Now just need to figure out why I cannot attach photos.
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Alright, giving this a shot. I figure posting the progress will hopefully help me dodge some bullets and maybe even help others through my mistakes and success.
Now just need to figure out why I cannot attach photos.
Bring it on, we are looking forward to seeing what you do
What are your plans Rich? You may need a few posts before getting all the rights, e.g. photos..
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Referring and asking questions will be very useful on this post. The one thing yo remember is to ASK and not let your own pride in the way. Even today I realized I screwed up the first thing I installed which is the firewall. I thought I had it in right but soon realized today after 5 months it's off by 1/4" on one side, could have avoided that if I asked early on.
One suggestion I would make is do your inventory. leave stuff in the boxes, mark the pages and boxes with the box or page number for easy finds. Your car # is close to mine I'm 1028. Have fun!
I've also redone a few things on my '33 more times than I wish to admit after seeing other posts here.
At the moment I'm relocating the mufflers for the second time so the rear exhaust pipes won't hit the frame. The manual isn't too clear on the rear exiting exhaust pipes.
My car is #1047 pretty close to you guys.
I think you need 20 posts before you can attach pics, just keep asking questions and you'll be at 20 before you know it.
Several years down the building path I am still redoing things
But what motor, trans, "look" are you going for? Always fun to see the variety here..
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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This is the look I like. I am going for a classic black and chrome with purple highlights.
The engine is a 383 stroker with 700R4 transmission.
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James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Roadracer, I have been looking at the same headers you are using and wonder if they will work for me. I had to flip my motor mounts to get the clearance needed to install the motor.
One lesson learned is the junk on the front of the engine affects the placement and clearance. I am attaching a few pictures to give visualization to what I am trying to say.
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I am ready to get the exhaust in to know where to place other things but don't really want to order and then return a bunch of manifolds until I find one that fits.
With your best guess do you or any others have an opinion that wont involve me stripping the front end off of the engine?
I'm going for the same classic look as you reckerd, full fenders and running boards.
I'm using an LS3 with a 4L65e tranny.
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I'm comparing yours to mine and I think you'll be fine. Your motor mounts are all forward of mine, on both sides, and that gives you more clearance with those headers. My motor mounts are roughly level with center exhaust ports - yours look more forward than that. I put a shorty water pump just to give more bottom pulley clearance, but I'm really low budget compared to your billet serpentine stuff
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Of course, pushing the motor back like this will mean something on exhaust system will have to be changed.. and transmission mount, driveshaft.. you're also going to need to recess the firewall - i only have .75" gap between my HEI and firewall.
Last edited by RoadRacer; 05-22-2018 at 06:15 PM.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Looks great JimLev! Looking forward to watching yours as it completes.
RoadRacer, I did have to get a shorter drive shaft. Fortunately FF had one that was perfect and they swapped it for me. (Thanks again FF, your customer service it outstanding)
I had to buy a different distributor, one that had a small head with a separate coil instead of the all in one I had on it. You are also correct on the firewall. I had to modify it a bit so the transmission would not hit.
The next two items to figure out are the exhaust and the fuel. There seems to be so many different opinions on stock fuel tank to Boyd, internal fuel pump to external, modified tank to bolt and roll. Since this is all new to me I find myself reading more than doing with a touch of information paralyzation.
yeah fuel tank is tricky. I'm buying the latest version, with central fuel inlet, rather than going with boyd. For the longest time I was sticking to stock, but it's just such a risk, and hard to change later. You'll hear of leaks and poor filling - both caused by bad design - and I want my car to be a DD so reliability is key. In the end, I'll spend some more budget on a system that has the bugs designed out of it, while still being "factory supported". I already had carb and external pump, so no biggie
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Ok, next trick.
How can you adapt a heater assembly to a water pump that doesn't have a port? I have not see this before and would rather not replace the water pump if possible.
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