Here are a few shots hope they help. First is of the door templates. Second is of the door opening trim and triangle with front upright. Last shot is of the rear corner of cab where the pointed pieces go. Also the two pieces sitting on the floor aluminum go under the radiator and cowl I believe.
Last edited by Marv; 07-22-2018 at 03:13 PM.
2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
Deep Impact Blue
2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.
Thanks for this. I see how the front pieces go in now. However, I don't have the pieces behind the seats. Time to e-mail FFR
Originally Posted by Marv
Here are a few shots hope they help. First is of the door templates. Second is of the door opening trim and triangle with front upright. Last shot is of the rear corner of cab where the pointed pieces go. Also the two pieces sitting on the floor aluminum go under the radiator and cowl I believe.
Today was a big day! After getting all the aluminum attached it was time to clean everything up, make final connections for the trans cooler, and TCM for the trans and clear out the floorpans I had been using as tool storage. It was go-kart day.
My experience - in my first-time-builder brain I was going to add some gas, attached the positive terminal of the batter cable and fire it up. That's not how any of this works. First we found that the fuel system leaked out of the fuel pressure regulator in 4 out of 4 holes. After tightening and sealing, the lovely fuel leak right over the headers was gone.
Next, we fired it up and nothing happened. We had no spark. We had oil pressure, fuel pressure, air but no spark. We found out our problem by googling the wiring diagram for the MSD distributor. We were missing a power cable (the orange one from the harness labeled "EFI or Coil") to the positive side of the coil. After my 1 year old's nap was over it was time to start it up!
It was super rewarding to get things going under their own power. Now - it was not without issues.
1. The auto trans needs to run for a while for the fluid to get everywhere - meaning I didn't have reverse yet. TBD on getting that resolved though I think it just needs more fluid with the torque converter and trans cooler needed to get their fluid.
2. The lower radiator hose is a total PITA and FFR doesn't send you the right stuff. So the bottom of the radiator is 1.5" OD and the metal tube is 1.75" OD and so you need a reducer. It was here that I lost my radiator hose and lost all my coolant - so back to the garage i went. I have it fixed but this is just a total cluster getting this to work with the old 33 parts and the new 35 radiator. ::rant over::
3. You have to get the coolant to cycle through the radiator. It ran hot a couple times but that's just because of air in the system. I'll get there.
Now - today was an awesome day. But I really could use the manual as I am on to chapter 4 and this is where the 33 doesn't line up with the 35 at all. Hopefully that comes soon!
While FFR gets their final bench seat design and approved for production (6-8 weeks out), i bought a pair of roadster seats. They look great in the truck. Probably won't be the forever solution, but will let me go-kart much more safely.
After a couple weeks of travel and messing around with the all the heat/sound insulation on the inside, we got the body on.
A couple notes - the heat/sound insulation kit doesn't cover everything in the truck, so I ended up buying 2 rolls of dynamat and 3 rolls of dynaliner. Glad I have extra so I can ensure everything is covered.
Also, I made a rookie mistake - I didn't like the red brake line from the master cylinder to the firewall so I used black fuel line. My line is now weeping brake fluid. Now on the hunt from more wilwood lines - which is way harder than it should be.
Now on to pictures - got the body on. I had to notch out the bottom of the body near where the A pillar goes all the way down to the bottom frame rail. I also had to square up the inside of the lip that transitions from the bed to the cab in back. Relatively easy with help. I'm now post go-kart, and doing the body steps in the beta manual. Time to step up the pace on progress as my goal is a fall-colors drive. Which is October in MN.
I worry about these exposed brake fluid reservoirs on painted firewalls. Any spills or leaks and you have peeling paint. I have used DOT 5 in the past in some cars to avoid this problem. I know there is a great debate in using the silicone based fluid, especially from racers, but in some cases it makes sense. I have not decided yet which way to go.
Rallph
Great idea on the shrink wrap. Going to 100% steal that one.
A leak can happen no matter where it is mounted. Honestly, I would rather have it leak on the outside where I can clean/re-paint more easily than have it leak on the pedal box, wires and everything behind the dash. But - the inside mount is a much cleaner look, I can't deny that.
I just provided FFR some feedback on the beta manual. I'll post that feedback here too. It is mostly around the doors - as that I what I am doing now. Also, those hinges are some serious material. Have multiples of the drill bits you need and multiple hacksaw blades.
Feedback (I know it's a beta manual so I am not complaining. Just sharing my learnings for later builders):
Page 300:
You call out that you have to flip the template but it just wasn’t obvious enough for me. And the picture on page 303 only shows 1 set of hinges. That critical step would be more obvious if the picture on 303 showed both hinges. Side note - those hinges are tough!
Page 322 - Door Latch Prep
The clevises needed to be pressed in a vice for the bolt to fit. The ones sent weren’t pinched together and that might need to be in the instructions.
Page 323 - Door Frame Assembly
First thing it says to do is put the frame in the door. This is wrong. The frame won’t go in the door assembled, so I had to take it apart, put both pieces in and then re-assemble it.
Page 325 - Door Hinge Nut Plate
You call out this part but it’s nowhere on the packing list and I just used bolts, washers and nuts. Either include it or change the manual (maybe you are doing this on later trucks
Since I am still waiting for shock threaded sleeves, I have not gotten as far as you have, but have been looking as small things I can work on.
One change I noticed relates to the e-brake handle and mounting brackets. On page 80 of the Beta it shows the new long "L" shaped bracket that attaches to the frame. The new "toothed" part is shorter than the one supplied with the kit. Also, the picture below that one still shows the two holed bracket you are to attach to the frame for the cables to run through. As I understand, this bracket is no longer used, as the cables are to run through a two holed plate that is welded to the lower rear bulkhead tube, and run bare up to the brake handle. I am curious as to why this change was made.
I just provided FFR some feedback on the beta manual. I'll post that feedback here too. It is mostly around the doors - as that I what I am doing now. Also, those hinges are some serious material. Have multiples of the drill bits you need and multiple hacksaw blades.
Feedback (I know it's a beta manual so I am not complaining. Just sharing my learnings for later builders):
Page 300:
You call out that you have to flip the template but it just wasn’t obvious enough for me. And the picture on page 303 only shows 1 set of hinges. That critical step would be more obvious if the picture on 303 showed both hinges. Side note - those hinges are tough!
Page 322 - Door Latch Prep
The clevises needed to be pressed in a vice for the bolt to fit. The ones sent weren’t pinched together and that might need to be in the instructions.
Page 323 - Door Frame Assembly
First thing it says to do is put the frame in the door. This is wrong. The frame won’t go in the door assembled, so I had to take it apart, put both pieces in and then re-assemble it.
Page 325 - Door Hinge Nut Plate
You call out this part but it’s nowhere on the packing list and I just used bolts, washers and nuts. Either include it or change the manual (maybe you are doing this on later trucks
Good Stuff, I think perhaps that this should be a top thread in the 35 Pickup forums. Can you please start one with a label like "35 Pickup Beta Manual Changes" please?
If anyone finds anything else we'll have one location to check. I'm hoping Tom Wallace will have some enlightenment in this area as well.
Just thought I owed everyone an update. I got the body on and the the door hinges are really stumping me. The bolts that came in the kit don't want to fit and there seems to be too much interference with the body and the bolts. I have e-mail FFR and will let you know what I learn. If anyone knows what's going on, please let me know. Tom? Erik?
I have started my layout for the dash and got the gauge cluster in and the Heat/AC controls in too. Mounted it in the truck and there are no clearance issues with the gauges and the AC condenser. Good News!
The instructions call for cutting 6 holes in the dash and then getting it to match up. I thought that was wrought with alignment issues so I cut one big hole with 'tabs' left for button head screws. Then I can take the whole cluster out with 1 unit, rather than those thumb screws holding down the bridges on the the autometer gauges. See the cardboard template I made out of a diaper box that shows what gets removed.
Sounds good. Posted some hinge pictures on my thread hope they help
Last edited by Marv; 09-20-2018 at 09:23 AM.
2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
Deep Impact Blue
2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.
This past week I was off work and my Dad came up to help. We got both doors on now and the hinges work and the striker works and got the door handles on. Pretty happy with that. Once that work was done we NEEDED to run it again. That was real fun. Also, had to make sure I got what I paid for from Moser because I paid extra for a limited slip differential.
I also got the new style headlights with the horizontal bar for the DRL and Turn Signal. Took a little fiddling with the wires but I got them working too. I used a "jump pack" to test which wire did what at the front of the car. Had to derive my own wiring diagram really. Plus side is they look amazing! (photos still to come once I have it final wired)
I will be making a larger post about the doors and lessons learned.
So this is super cool - I installed the headlights. I asked for the more modern ones from the manual with the daytime running lights (DRL) and all LED construction. I'm glad I swapped them out.
A note on the wiring - I think this is an area where FFR is doing some changes so initially I followed the colors on the manual and my high beams / low beams were backwards. It was right on the dashboard light so I just needed to swap the wires. I may or may not do the cowl, so I made all the connectors removable in case I need to remove everything at any time.
Made some more progress this weekend. I connected the rear tail lights and got the dash backlighting for the Vintage Air to work.
I also got the hooks and chains and hardware to mount the tailgate. That was a pretty fun step. I also wanted to get some sleeves for the chain but didn't want to pay for it. So out come the leather tools and some thread. It looks ok and will loosen up over time but they work!
Does anyone know why my blinkers would work when I'm not on the brake pedal. But when I am on the brake pedal they don't work, the light just goes solid. This is the case for both the headlights and tail lights. Sorta vexed - but might search for a better ground for the flasher relays.
The turn signal switch (TSS) in the column is "at rest", it connects the brake light switch (feeding +12v) into both sides/wires leading back to the lamps.
When the TSS is thrown, it breaks the feed from the brake circuit, and inserts the +12v from the turn signal flasher circuit into the side you selected. The opposite side is still connected to the brake light circuit.
It sounds like your TSS in the column isn't breaking contact. Sometimes the little metal strips/fingers need a tweak so the cam in switch opens the contacts.
Made some more progress this weekend. I connected the rear tail lights and got the dash backlighting for the Vintage Air to work.
I also got the hooks and chains and hardware to mount the tailgate. That was a pretty fun step. I also wanted to get some sleeves for the chain but didn't want to pay for it. So out come the leather tools and some thread. It looks ok and will loosen up over time but they work!
Does anyone know why my blinkers would work when I'm not on the brake pedal. But when I am on the brake pedal they don't work, the light just goes solid. This is the case for both the headlights and tail lights. Sorta vexed - but might search for a better ground for the flasher relays.
Jeff, old question on when you mounted radiator to grill. Did the radiator fit flat on the grill? Mine hits the center brace of the grill and sits up about 1/4". I have been grinding grill brace and radiator sides, but do not want to go much further. I notice notches in the brace, but they do not fit radiator width.
Did you have the issue and how did you resolve. "
Thanks, Ralph
Ralph, my radiator is spaced about 3/4 of an inch above grill the grill mounts. I have A/C so the condenser is in front, buy some 1/4 inch ID spacers from a hardware store give yourself some clearance between the radiator and horizontal brace measure and cut.
2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
Deep Impact Blue
2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.
Marv, thanks. I got it fairly close by grinding the brace and radiator housing, and now everything fits flush without spacers.
After temporarily mounting the grill/radiator to the car, I see I will have to find another place for my horns. There is no way my lower radiator hose will attach, as the horns are right in front of the outlet. So much for the Beta Manual, as the alternate mount suggestion is evidently for the '33 Hot Rod frame.
The beta manual pictures also show the lower radiator connections from the 33 HR radiator that connects below the frame.
Jeff, just noticed your no. 43 post and experienced your lower radiator outlet issues. I have ordered Boig Motorsports lower hose and I hope it helps me with your experience. They had to change their design to resolve the size change for the outlet. Fun.