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Front tires rubbing when turning
I am using a 07 wagon donor but replaced the LCAs with aluminum. The control arms were mounted to the inner holes and the tires rubbed when turning hard. I moved the control arms to the outer holes and no rub but then there is not enough tie rod left to secure them. Any suggestions?
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Super Moderator
Are there longer tie rods available? That seems like the easiest and quickest solution.
Ray
I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....
“Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
-- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Tamarack18
I am using a 07 wagon donor but replaced the LCAs with aluminum. The control arms were mounted to the inner holes and the tires rubbed when turning hard. I moved the control arms to the outer holes and no rub but then there is not enough tie rod left to secure them. Any suggestions?
Tamarak18.
I did the same a couple of years ago. The Baer bump steer kit make the tie rod ends longer. Depending on your front tire width and ride height, you might rub the fenders during body roll.
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 07-29-2018 at 10:04 AM.
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The only way to make certain you will not rub or actually crack the body fender during turning / compression is to raise the fender 1.25 inches. This is on the Gen I 818 front. Perhaps FFR raised it up on the Gen II. Here is a picture:
Presentation1.jpg
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The wagon's were slightly narrower than the sedans, assuming the aluminum LCAs were for a sedan and might be the cause for running out of threads on the tie-rods.
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Originally Posted by
Bob_n_Cincy
The Bear bump steer kit make the tie rod ends longer.
Is this the kit you are referring to?
https://www.jegs.com/i/Baer-Brake/13...660+4294828659
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
DND
Baer bump steer kit from Summit is #BAE-3851001
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post239655
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Senior Member
You can also piece together a bump steer kit from speedway for cheaper. I believe there’s a list somewhere here on the forums, I also show all the part numbers in one of my videos.
Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____
YouTube Channel
818 SRX - #91
Arrived 01/02/2014
First Start 10/31/2016
First Drive 05/22/2017
Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818
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Adam I got all the part numbers from your video.
I am finally getting around to doing this now that I've fixed my lower control arm locations and semi-corrected the ride height of the car.
But from all the different threads on this topic I'm still a little unclear on one thing, do the Pinto tapers fit or not fit? And did you just drill things out and use a straight bolt instead?
Does even the Baer kit require modification to use?
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I have just installed the Bauer kit and it requires no modifications.
Simply install it.
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Originally Posted by
DND
Adam I got all the part numbers from your video.
I am finally getting around to doing this now that I've fixed my lower control arm locations and semi-corrected the ride height of the car.
But from all the different threads on this topic I'm still a little unclear on one thing, do the Pinto tapers fit or not fit? And did you just drill things out and use a straight bolt instead?
Does even the Baer kit require modification to use?
The Pinto tapers do not fit. The Baer kit fits, but I found that I needed longer pins to completely correct the bump steer. This may not be the case for all cars. I ended up having the Pinto tapers turned to the correct taper. Drilling and using a straight bolt should also work.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
DND
Adam I got all the part numbers from your video.
I am finally getting around to doing this now that I've fixed my lower control arm locations and semi-corrected the ride height of the car.
But from all the different threads on this topic I'm still a little unclear on one thing, do the Pinto tapers fit or not fit? And did you just drill things out and use a straight bolt instead?
Does even the Baer kit require modification to use?
Didn’t drill anything, the taper doesn’t quite fit all the way but it’s not going anywhere.
Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____
YouTube Channel
818 SRX - #91
Arrived 01/02/2014
First Start 10/31/2016
First Drive 05/22/2017
Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Canadian818
Didn’t drill anything, the taper doesn’t quite fit all the way but it’s not going anywhere.
Ditto. Got same kit as Adam, actually I sent him the parts that I bought double!
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021