I just realized how difficult it will be to access the windshield bracket once the body is on. With my layout, will I or my body/paint guy (ken Pike) be able to access this driver side location. My brake line and electrical is in this area.
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I just realized how difficult it will be to access the windshield bracket once the body is on. With my layout, will I or my body/paint guy (ken Pike) be able to access this driver side location. My brake line and electrical is in this area.
build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-USRRC-vspeeds
Build School: July 14-16, 2017
Kit purchased: July 25, 2017
Kit delivered: September 13, 2017
First Start: December 22, 2018
Body painted and kit completed and drivable: July 2019 (but still not done)
CA SB100 Registration: January 2020
Mk4 - 289 USRRC Roadster kit, Roush 427SR with Schneider Racing custom camshaft, Fitech EFI, TKO600 (.64-5th gear), 15" wheels, stock brake calipers, under car exhaust with Spintech 7000 muffler, no roll bar, Russ Thompson turn signal, removable steering wheel, and many other small upgrades and modifications
Should be ok. BTW, every car I build get the windshield frame drilled and tapped rather then through bolted. Makes installation much easier. never had one strip, but if it did you could just throw the nut on it. I tap them 1/2-13 and use the supplied bolts.
Mike
Looks like most do with the Wilwood box and RF harness. Although it's still no walk in the park dropping the fuse panel helps tremendously. It won't be Ken's first rodeo
Jeff
Vspeed,
Thanks, for posting this thread because I was test fitting the windshield this past weekend.
It's posts like these that help us all.
Mike,
Your installation Tidbit is Huge even though I've got pretty easy access.
I think I'll pick up a tap this evening plus that way I can sort of double nut them as well.
Thanks From The Dark Dart Side!
Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-05-2018 at 06:24 AM.
I first ran into the tap idea helping PileasFogg w/ his. If you don't want to buy a drill and tap for this pretty much one-time use, plain nuts works too. Throw out the lock nuts FFR provides and get a double set of plain nuts. You can thread them on/off my hand during the dozen or so test fits. Use a wrench for just the last turn or so. When the install is final run the extra nut on each bolt as a jam nut.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
Drill & tap is definitely the way to go. Drill a 27/64" hole for a 1/2"-13 tap. I got the idea from one of the countless build threads I've read.
When it comes to installation, the windshield posts will run on the outside of the mounting plates. You're probably going to need spacers between the plate and post. It's easiest to put the spacers on the right side because you've got more room in which to work. But if your windshield is like mine, you're going to need a spacer or two on the left side as well. I scotch taped the washers to the windshield posts to keep them in place rather than try to fight them into place from below.
To get the bolt into place, I run my hand up under the dash and over the 2" frame, just like your vent pull is currently running. Be sure to disconnect your battery (both terminals) so that you don't have to be bashful getting your hand close to the fuse box. Plus you don't have to worry about shorting anything out when you drop the washer (which you will, at least once).
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
Thanks. Your words put me at ease. I just had one of those sinking feelings that I did something wrong. Good to know about drill and tap and spacers.
build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-USRRC-vspeeds
Build School: July 14-16, 2017
Kit purchased: July 25, 2017
Kit delivered: September 13, 2017
First Start: December 22, 2018
Body painted and kit completed and drivable: July 2019 (but still not done)
CA SB100 Registration: January 2020
Mk4 - 289 USRRC Roadster kit, Roush 427SR with Schneider Racing custom camshaft, Fitech EFI, TKO600 (.64-5th gear), 15" wheels, stock brake calipers, under car exhaust with Spintech 7000 muffler, no roll bar, Russ Thompson turn signal, removable steering wheel, and many other small upgrades and modifications
[QUOTE=GoDadGo;345401]Vspeed,
Thanks, for posting this thread because I was test fitting the windshield this past weekend.
It's posts like these that help us all.
GoDadGo
We're all in this together. I'm just thankful that I have the opportunity to be able to build this toy. This is all new to me so Im glad I'm able to help others.
Eddie
build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-USRRC-vspeeds
Build School: July 14-16, 2017
Kit purchased: July 25, 2017
Kit delivered: September 13, 2017
First Start: December 22, 2018
Body painted and kit completed and drivable: July 2019 (but still not done)
CA SB100 Registration: January 2020
Mk4 - 289 USRRC Roadster kit, Roush 427SR with Schneider Racing custom camshaft, Fitech EFI, TKO600 (.64-5th gear), 15" wheels, stock brake calipers, under car exhaust with Spintech 7000 muffler, no roll bar, Russ Thompson turn signal, removable steering wheel, and many other small upgrades and modifications
Great timing on this post. Something coming up shortly is mounting the body and windshield. I was trying to figure out how to fab up a floating nut plate. Stupid engineers (me)! forgot the obviously easier answer of drill and tap, and I already have a 27/64 drill and 1/2-13 tap.
Thanks!
Confidence: The feeling you have before you truly understand the situation. FFR 7652 Mk IV Base Kit w/IRS: ordered 10/19/2011; Arrived 11/19/2011. Coyote, Trans & headers Installed 9/11/17. First Start 12/19/17, First Go-cart 3/2/18. Aligned and go-karting. Working the interior now. Happy customer of FFR, North RaceCars, Forte's, and Breeze.
Chris Lewis
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
I unbolted the fuse panel and let it hang to the side and could reach the DS windshield bolts from under the dash (with the body on). As several people said, drill and tap the windshield braces. Makes it easier to install. I did add the nuts too.
ALSO: As I tightened the bolts, the windshield raised up in the middle (bowing the windshield), to the point that there was a gap between the body and windshield rubber. I had to add shims between the brackets and the frame mounts. Ended up with 1/8" on one side and 3/16" shim on the other. I made plates with both holes in them (about 2" wide and 6-7" long). Made it easy to install and align... no juggling washers. Best way is to try it before the body is on and you can see how much shim you need.
Last edited by Ducky2009; 11-05-2018 at 09:43 PM.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
Get several of these at O'Reillys Auto - Windshield Shim Install Photos - Remember the GLUE
Click Here
Last edited by DadofThree; 11-05-2018 at 09:52 PM.
Dave
Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
Greenhorn and doing the best I can
My photos are at: My Flickr acct
Videos are at: YouTube Videos
Hey Eddie, I mounted the windshield in my 289 FIA a couple of weeks ago. The space is a little tighter than the Mk. IV but still there is ample room. The passenger side is a piece of cake. The driver's side is a little trickier but moving the fuse panel temporarily out of the way provided enough access space even on the 289. As many others have mentioned, I drilled and tapped the windshield. I used 7/16-20 bolts which gave me a little wiggle room for adjustment. Ken is also painting my car and wants me to leave the windshield in when I deliver it to him. Joel
Installing these bolts and shims are not that bad. Make sure you tap your windshield legs to fit the bolts and use open fender washers. You use an extension and a socket to install the and tighten the bolts from inside the foot box. Then install the nuts and use a wratcheting wrench to tighten them from between the chassis and body. I did not find this that bad of a job to do. It’s easier if you have someone holding a light so you can see what your doing.
Mk4, Moser M88 rear end, Eaton truetrak, Craft Racing 461 Windsor, MMR pro trans, Glenn’s 1,000 hp cobra fuel system and lots of other parts.
Very helpful information from all.
Spacers are important as it has been theorized that not installing enough of them has led to the cracked windshield problem.
Doug
FFR 7995
347 SBF Prestige Mototsports, Moser 8.8 (3.31) 3 Link, TKO 600, Nitto 555s, 17" Halibrands, PS, AC, Heat, Color Redfire Pearl, with Wimbledon White Stripes