Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: 5,000 Mile Report

[David Williamson]

I would not weld on the stud, it will affect the ductility and it might break. Can you get a section of hex bar stock drilled and tapped with the 2 sizes?
David W

[edwardb]

I would not weld on the stud, it will affect the ductility and it might break. Can you get a section of hex bar stock drilled and tapped with the 2 sizes?

David W

Guess I wasn't clear. The idea isn't to weld on the stud, but rather the spacer directly onto the existing bolt. Which I have and show in the picture (along with the wrong sized bearing cap bolt w/stud I received). So rather than being threaded onto the bearing cap bolt the spacer is permanently attached. Then mount the oil pan pickup tube on the other end per normal.

[TheBabyBadger]

Nice Paul! Just started working on that same issue in my Coupe, and went about it about the same exact way!

Quick Question. In the below picture, did you ADD the closeout over the "X" above the trans tunnel (left of your FPR and below fuse box). I thought it got shorted in my kit, but no one else seems to have it either. Did you make this piece or am I actually missing it? Thanks!

EdwardsEngineBay.jpg

[edwardb]

Nice Paul! Just started working on that same issue in my Coupe, and went about it about the same exact way!

Quick Question. In the below picture, did you ADD the closeout over the "X" above the trans tunnel (left of your FPR and below fuse box). I thought it got shorted in my kit, but no one else seems to have it either. Did you make this piece or am I actually missing it? Thanks!

The kit doesn't include that part. I fabbed it out of a piece of .040 aluminum. I saw something similar in another build while I was gathering ideas for my build, so used the idea in mine. I like how it makes the engine bay a little more finished looking.

[Dlirium]

SNIP

With that done, flipped the engine over and started working on the Moroso oil pan installation and pickup modification. First thing was to check the fit of the oil pan gasket/windage tray and the Moroso pan. The OE pan for the Gen 3 Coyote is the plastic (composite…) pan I pictured previously with the integral oil pickup and gasket/windage tray. I picked up a Gen 2 gasket/windage tray (part number BR3Z-6710-A) and confirmed it fit fine along with the Moroso pan. All the sealing surfaces are exactly the same and the bolt holes all line up perfectly. Started preliminary work on the pickup mod. First was to confirm the 8491A761 bushing, 1" ID, 1-1/4" OD, 1-1/2" long, that I got from McMaster fit the oil pump inlet. It does. Perfectly. Nice slip fit into the rubber gasket. The ID fits the OD of the Moroso oil pickup tube. So we’re off and running. Tomorrow I plan to get this completely figured out and fixtured for welding. This is the new gasket and you can see the bushing pushed into the oil pump in the lower LH corner of the pic.

FYI, a fabricator friend of mine has done the same thing with the MMR / Moroso pickup, here are a few pictures (since I couldn't figure out how to email them) for reference...

ron1.jpgron2.jpg

[edwardb]

FYI, a fabricator friend of mine has done the same thing with the MMR / Moroso pickup, here are a few pictures (since I couldn't figure out how to email them) for reference...

ron1.jpgron2.jpg

Interesting approach. Basically duplicated the integral pickup tube in the stock pan. Thanks for posting. We were gone for three weeks, then took a few days to get settled once back. I've been able to get back on the build the last couple days, mainly trying to wrap up power wiring. Plan to get back on my oil pan pickup mod this week as well. I'll post an update when there's something more to see.

[edwardb]

It’s been a while, but I’m finally back. We were in Oregon and Idaho visiting family for three weeks. Great seeing everyone and had an awesome time. But good to be back home, like always. We ran into snow in Minneapolis on the flights home, and it caught up with Michigan the next day. The ground has been white since. I guess that means driving season is officially over. Always a little sad. But back to the build after catching up with home duties for several days.

Main focus of the last several days has been to finish the main power wiring. Obviously it needs to get done, but also to wrap up the engine compartment so the Coyote can go in for good. I used the same main power scheme as on #8674 and similar to #7750, just without the Coyote. I used the Breeze front battery mounts in the Roadsters. For the Coupe, the front mount location is standard. I get a lot of questions about this, so here is the scheme I use:

• +12V main power #2 gauge cable from battery positive to post on Ron Francis MS-1 master disconnect accessible from inside the cockpit.
• On the same post (+12V, unswitched), #4 gauge cable to the Coyote 250 amp fuse (provided in controls pack) and then to the front post on the Coyote PDB.
• On the other side of the master disconnect (+12V, switched), #4 gauge cable back to the large post on the starter solenoid.
• Also on the switched side is a cable to a Blue Sea Systems #2307 150A bus bar in the cockpit. The Ron Francis harness power connections will be made there.
• Main ground #2 gauge cable from battery negative to spot on the frame. Powder coat removed under the lug and attached with 3/8-16 flange head screw into tapped hole.
• Also stacked at this frame ground location are the (1) main ground from the Coyote PDB, and (2) #4 gauge ground wire to engine. I’ll add a second engine ground from one of the starter bolts to another location on the frame, probably near the motor mount. I’ve always done two engine grounds, and will on this build as well.

This wiring approach gives full time power to the Coyote PDB, as outlined in the Ford Performance instructions, and switches the Ron Francis harness. With the switch off, the Coyote won't start since there would be no ignition sense voltage to the Coyote pigtail and also no battery voltage to the starter. Additionally (although I haven't tried it) the Coyote should stop if the switch were turned off since again the ignition sense voltage would be cut off. I know many install a master disconnect. But also many don't. I can see it either way. But this arrangement works for me to have a switch plus a gathering point for the various main power connections.

I used #2 cable from West Marine. It’s sold by the foot. Not cheap, but high quality marine grade. The conductors are small diameter, so it’s pretty flexible similar to welding cable. The kit comes with #4 battery cable, which is probably adequate. But many have upgraded to #2 (or larger...) and it's not a bad idea. I've never had a starting issue, hot or cold. I used Fusion battery terminals, which have pre-measured solder and flux and I like how they work. The rest of the #2 and #4 lugs are heavy duty crimp style. The terminals, HD lugs, and shrink sleeving are all from DelCity.net. The smaller gauge terminals are from West Marine. They have a nice selection. I used regular convolute and then spiral wrapped with non-adhesive vinyl harness tape. Same treatment Ford uses on the Coyote harness. Looks a little better than the plain convolute, is easier to keep clean, and perhaps provides a little more protection.

I mentioned this is my last build, but will here again. Several years ago another forum member recommended a hydraulic crimper for this heavy duty cable work. Part number YQK70. It’s a common tool available from a number of sources. I got mine off eBay, but they're available elsewhere. Typically less than $40, which seems a little crazy. I wouldn’t call it Snap-On quality. But does the job very well. I found their recommendations for die sizes and specific AWG cable to be off. But then maybe that was because I was using mostly heavy duty lugs. But a little experimentation finds the right size to use. Comes with plenty of dies and they’re easy to change. Looks like this:



Pictures of the installation. Battery connections to power harness through engine compartment.



Down the frame rail. I measured the starter connection locations and lengths during the mockup, duplicated here. The smaller wire is the blue start wire from the Coyote controls pack. I took enough measurements and pictures during mockup to know everything here easily clears.



Firewall with Coyote PDB and related. Main power wires go to master disconnect behind this center panel.



Master disconnect behind the center panel viewed from inside cockpit with top transmission tunnel piece removed. Note I will have both this upper and lower tunnel piece removable. Also visible here is the connection to the bus bar for power connection to the RF harness.



Another view of the master disconnect inside the cockpit on the passenger side. Looked at a lot of potential locations for the switch and ended up here. Just too much congestion on the driver’s side, plus the cables routed the best here. It will end up just slightly tucked under the dash.



That’s it for wiring in the engine compartment. I’m going to get the hydraulic line for the clutch installed, and then then everything will be ready to drop the engine in.

[edwardb]

Also this week I worked on the famous oil pan pickup tube for the Gen 3 Coyote. First up was to get the proper main bearing cap bolt with stud, not installed on the Gen 3 as discussed previously. Was able to get what I needed. The part numbers are: BR3Z-6345-A stud, N806180-S2 spacer, and N605904-S bolt. These are the parts next to the main bearing cap bolt they replace:



Then very carefully torqued the new bolt into position. Per Ford specs, 50 ft-lbs, then 90 degrees. Used my shiny new digital angle gauge, pictured previously. But would have been pretty simple without in this case. Used some blue Loctite on the spacer. Now it looks like a Gen 2 Coyote in that location.



So finally it was time to try to marry the Moroso pickup with the Modular Motorsports oil pump connector. Discussed at length earlier, so won’t go into detail again. Had plenty of time to think about this while I was gone. Last night I fabricated a connector from a piece of 4130 steel round tube, McMaster part number 89955K969. Then I tapped four 1/4-20 locations on each end for set screws. After a lot of studying, measuring, (and soul searching…) took the hacksaw to the Moroso and Modular Motorsports parts and joined them with the connector. Success! It lines up perfectly and seats properly into the oil pump. Clears the pan and windage tray just fine. Checked the pickup depth in the pan with some plumber’s putty, and all good. I have the set screws pretty tight, so nothing should move when I take it to my buddy for welding. Once welded, will take out the set screws and have him weld those shut too. I think this little saga is about over. I hope so. Once this is done, the engine will come off the stand and I’ll get the whole thing assembled. Flywheel, clutch, bell, HRB and trans. Then into the chassis.



One last item to share. On a beautiful fall day in early October (already seems like a long time ago) took #8674 out for some pictures, including on the street in our neighborhood just down from our place. Got some nice shots, so submitted one of them for the Picture of the Month (POM). Was pleased and surprised to win the October POM contest. Cool! And the $250 Factory Five gift certificate wasn’t bad either. Wasn’t planning to, but took the opportunity to splurge on the billet door handles they offer, replacing the nearly identical plastic ones provided in the kit. Also updated some of my Factory Five swag. Sweatshirt, hat, etc. These are going to look nice in the Coupe. The handles that is.

[Mark Eaton]

The rest of the #2 and #4 lugs are heavy duty crimp style.

Paul, after you crimp on those heavy duty lugs do you also solder or just heat shrink tubing and call it good?

Thanks,

Mark

[edwardb]

The rest of the #2 and #4 lugs are heavy duty crimp style.

Paul, after you crimp on those heavy duty lugs do you also solder or just heat shrink tubing and call it good?

Thanks,

Mark

Just crimped. The hydraulic crimper I showed puts a full 360 degree crimp around the conductors. Not just a single dent or flat spot. I've done some practice crimps and then did pull tests and also cut several apart. The section is basically solid copper. Very solid. The heat shrink I use for those lugs is triple wall that includes an adhesive. Mainly meant to seal things up, but adds some strength as well. They're not going anywhere.

[edwardb]

Very productive last couple of days getting the Gen 3 Coyote assembled and ready to put into the chassis. Just a couple more details to wrap up on both. Then with a little help hope to get installed. A few little challenges along the way, but I think it’s good to go.

First up was the oil pan pickup tube. That chapter is now officially closed. Had the grafted together pickup tube welded. Still lined up perfectly. I cleaned up the rubber gasket and all mating surfaces and installed using some Permatex Ultra Black at the oil pump inlet. Probably not necessary but made me feel better. That plus how the windage tray engages one side, as shown previously, I’m confident it's sealed and won’t come out. Picture of the now completed pickup tube installed, and the other picture I’ve been waiting for. The Moroso pan bolted down for the final time.

Update: A proper Gen 3 pickup is now available from Moroso. No longer necessary to make a custom pickup as shown here.





Next up I decided to tackle the Speedhut water temp and oil pressure sending units. Couple of bumps, but now complete. First the easy one. The water temp sender goes into a 3/4-inch NPT fitting in the block by the oil filter. Same as before. The FF Coyote installation kit includes an adapter. The instructions say to thread the 1/2-inch NPT adapter that comes with the gauges into this adapter. Unfortunately, the adapter included with the gauges is 3/8-inch NPT. Had this exact issue with #8674. So ordered up the same Edelmann 210926 3/4-inch NPT to 3/8-inch NPT adapter used on #8674, and installed the sender. For the oil pressure sender, the Gen 3 Coyote has some differences from previous Coyotes. I pointed this out earlier. There are two wired devices by the oil filter, not just the single oil pressure sender. Similar as it turns out to what’s on the F-150 version of the Coyote. Seen here:



Through my contact at Ford, I was able to find out that “A” is a traditional oil pressure sender. “B” is an oil control valve that decreases oil pressure at low rpm to promote fuel economy. Interesting because some of the reviews I’ve read about the Gen 3 Coyote people who’ve had previous Coyotes have commented that the oil pressure reads lower than before. Clearly Ford is looking for every possible way to increase economy. But the rest of the story is my Ford contact confirmed that neither are used by the crate motor control pack PCM program. Also upon further review I found the inlet on the oil pressure sender is a metric O-ring fitting and I was unable to find any kind of adapter to fit it. So took the bull by the horns and removed the oil filter/sender assembly from the engine (4 bolts and has an O-ring gasket, so easy) and tapped the hole to 1/4-inch NPT. No way I was going to drill and tap the hole with the piece still on the engine. Would have been nearly impossible to keep chips and such out of there. With the hole tapped, used the gauge package provided 1/4-inch NPT adapter, installed the Speedhut oil pressure sender, and it’s done. I’m leaving the oil control valve in place, even though it doesn’t do anything. Doesn’t hurt a thing and saves finding something to plug the hole. Tied the other unused lead out of the way.

Update March 2020: Information above is not correct. The OE oil pressure sender is required for the Gen 3 Coyote. Discussed later in the build thread.



With that done, time to wrap up the final driveline pieces to the engine. I had previously installed the M-7600-C pilot bearing. Set the QuickTime block plate in place, and bolted on the M-6375-M50 billet steel flywheel using a M-6379-C bolt kit. The bolts are torqued to 177 in-lbs then turned another 60 degrees in a star pattern. Sounds light, but at 60 degrees very tight. Note the addition of the pilot bearing and flywheel are necessary because the Gen 3 Coyote has the unusable (for me anyway) dual mass flywheel and no pilot bearing in the end of the crank, as discussed several times already. Previous Coyotes had a nodular flywheel, which seems to work fine. This billet steel version is 9 pounds lighter and is SFI certified. Used the same one on #8674. Nice piece.



No pictures, but next up I installed the Quicktime RM-8080 bell housing and dial indicated the opening. Because of the way the two indexing dowels on a Coyote bell housing have mounting bolts through the center, the traditional methods of adjusting with offset dowels is challenging. But still good practice to take this step and confirm where you’re at. Tremec apparently specifically says their warranty doesn’t apply unless the bell housing is indexed and in spec. Interesting. Anyway, initial measurements weren’t great. Borderline to spec and certainly not my experience with previous QuickTime bell housings. Took it back apart trying to talk myself into it being close enough. Upon disassembly, I noticed how a foil/plastic heat shield around the crank sensor was being trapped between the block plate/bell and the block. There are several of these on the Gen 3 Coyote, including the two oil sensor pieces discussed previously. Also different than before. Looking further at the available clearance and the thickness of the shield, looked like this could be a problem. Removed the heat shield, bolted everything back together, and dial indicated the opening again. Surprise! Within .002 to .003 all around. Well within spec and similar to what I’ve seen before. This picture shows the shield removed next to where it was. Obviously, there’s a reason Ford added those. But haven’t used them before so leaving them off.

[edwardb]

Next up was the clutch. Using the same M-7560-T46 clutch as #8674. It’s actually a dual friction Centerforce part, sold by Ford Performance. It chattered a bit in the first couple hundred miles in #8674 (not unusual) but once broken in I’ve been real happy with it. Nice quality piece. Installed with a M-6397-B46 bolt and dowel kit. The bolts are torqued to 46 ft-lbs then turned another 60 degrees in a star pattern. Sounds a little heavy, compared to the flywheel, but they turned the full 60 degrees without feeling like I was forcing anything. Here’s the clutch installed, also showing a stop piece I made instead of trying to hold the front crankshaft bolt like I’ve done before. Also used it when torqueing the flywheel using one of the pressure plate bolt holes.



Then on with the bell housing. Used some blue Loctite and torqued to 50 ft/lbs.



As mentioned before, using a Tilton 60-6104 Hydraulic Release Bearing (HRB) instead of the traditional clutch arm and Ford throw-out bearing. First time for me on this, so we’ll see how it works and holds up. The installation is pretty simple. Just followed the directions. The inside sleeve is threaded and you set to end up 1/8-inch away from the clutch pressure plate fingers when fully retracted. In use, it will move out against the fingers and according to the instructions is self-adjusting. Similar to a disk brake caliper. The HRB includes an anti-rotation pin that goes into a threaded hole already in the T-56. I also removed the installed clutch arm pivot. But I'll save it. I’m using the HRB along with a Wilwood 260-10373 13/16 inch MC in the pedal box. That’s the size recommended by Tilton for this installation. The instructions are also very insistent that it have a pedal stop. So I’ll deal with that when it’s installed, bled, and checked out.





Then on the with T-56, which once lined up slid right into place. Can’t tell too much yet, but with the trans in gear the output yoke turns without any unusual drag or noises. I guess that’s good.





That's a chunk right there. My body feels it from dragging everything around for a day or two. Next step, into the chassis. But first some turkey and football, and some time spent being thankful which I truly am. For so many things. Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

[GT Trooper]

Nice work sir and Happy Thanksgiving to you.

[edwardb]

Big day today. With some help from a neighbor and fellow builder (Challenge Car) the Gen 3 Coyote + T-56 and related are installed into the Coupe chassis. In general, went pretty well. Took just over an hour and that was with a couple surprises. First some pictures of the installation, and then some observations and suggestions.

Used my H-F 2-ton shop crane, H-F leveler, and TD Motion Coyote lift brackets. I tried several different chain configurations, and wasn’t able to get the engine assembly to tilt down in the back as much as I would have liked and still be level side-to-side. Nothing wrong with anything, just a function of where the lift brackets attach to the engine. I used the same method as I have on previous installations though, and worked OK. I put a lift strap on the back of the trans, down under the chassis, and attached to the shop crane. Cranking this in pulls the tailshaft down and really helps make things easier to install. The other thing I did was rather than trying to move the engine stand around during the installation (not easy to move, causes the engine to start swinging) I put vehicle dollies on the four corners and move the chassis instead. Moves and controls easily. I know some guys lift the back wheels up, and that works too. But this process works for me. So, ready for the installation. Just standing there looking at it, doesn't seem like there's any way it will fit.



I added some furniture blankets all around the opening before moving the engine in. Little over an hour later, looked like this. I’ve posted similar pics during mockup. But this one’s different. This is the complete engine and trans and it’s not coming out again.



One of the things discovered during mockup was that the QuickTime bell housing extended 1-1/2 inches or so below the bottom of the frame. When it was back out after mockup, trimmed the overhang and painted the cut off edge. Affected a couple of the bolts around the circle. But didn’t open it up or expose anything. Still have more beef and bolts than the non-SFI QuickTime in #8674. For my purposes, it’s more than robust enough.



Now for some observations and suggestions. First for the installation itself.

- Leave the alternator off during the installation. I had unhooked the steering column and had it (I thought) out of the way, like can be done on then Roadster. It wasn’t. We had to lift the engine back up a little and completely remove the steering column. Because of the frame configuration, one or the other can’t be installed when the engine is dropped in. When completed, the steering shaft is over the alternator. Related to this, the driver's side header can’t be installed with the alternator in place. Again because of frame members all around the area. So, leave the alternator off when dropping in the engine. Then install the header. Then the alternator.

- Remove the shifter from the transmission. Way easier to install without that in the way. Because it’s bigger, even more the case with the T-56 compared to the TKO.

- Much was written earlier in this build thread about clearance for the Direct Injection (DI) pump on the passenger side head of the Gen 3 Coyote. In summary, it fits fine once the engine is in. But it’s definitely in the way when dropping the engine down. I removed it. Not hard. Two nuts, an electrical connection, and two hoses. Also remove the outer mounting stud. It too interferes, as we found during mid-installation. Looks like this after the dust clears. I'm a little surprised to see how scratched up the powder coat looks in this picture. This area will be covered with an access panel, and looks worse in the picture than it does in person. Doesn't look nice though.



- Related to this we also had a little trouble with the curve on the TD motion lift bracket hitting the chassis side rail on the driver’s side. Somewhat because of the DI pump situation on the passenger side. But even without that, the head was tight on the passenger side and the lift bracket hit the driver's side about 1/4-inch strong. I loosened it up, and was able to get it to drop though (with some furniture blanket padding). The bracket should either have less curve out (not easy) or maybe using fewer spacers behind it on the mounts would be enough. Something to look at.

Couple other general observations:

- Best I can tell, it wouldn’t be that hard to drop the transmission out the bottom of the tunnel if needed. The tunnel is much wider and is basically open from the bell housing to the tailshaft. The bell housing bolts are all accessible. The Gen 3 Coupe uses a mounting plate for the transmission rather than an A-frame mount like the Roadster. Plus the tailshaft isn't over top of a major chassis member like the Roadster. Hopefully won’t have to try, but nice to know since taking that Coyote in and out isn’t the most fun job.

- All 16 header bolts are reasonably accessible. Nothing like the Roadster. Especially the back few on the driver’s side which are nearly impossible on the Roadster. Was happy to see that.

- Already mentioned the driver’s side header won’t go in with the alternator installed. Sort of related, the starter motor won’t go in with the passenger side header installed. So kind of the opposite. There isn't room to put it in from the bottom. And the top access is blocked by the header and footbox. In both cases, related to the chassis design and the various frame members passing through the area.

That’s it for now. Next up, after a few more details, will be to plumb and check out the Tilton HRB. I’m confident it will be fine. But just want to confirm it’s working OK before going too far on anything else. Just in case.

Next week will be the one year anniversary of the kit landing in my garage shop. Slow compared to some builders. But feel like I’ve made good progress for my building pace plus trying and doing some different things. With the engine installed, next major milestone will be to complete the cockpit wiring and then first start.

[Jimtmich]

Congratulations and thanks for the update.

[edwardb]

With the engine/trans installed in the chassis, working through all the details. It’s been good to bolt stuff in for the last time. At least I hope so. Shifter put back on the transmission. Driveshaft and driveshaft loop installed. Filled the engine oil with the oil drained out of the engine when received. Filled to the line on the dipstick, which surprised me. But found the oil capacity on the 2018 Mustang GT is 10 quarts versus the previous 8 quarts. So, makes sense. Filled the T-56 with 4 quarts of DEXRON-III per the Tremec instructions. Different than previous T-5 and TKO experience. Tremec recently released their own transmission fluid -- TREMEC HP-MTF High Performance Transmission Fluid – that is supposed to be good stuff and usable for all their transmission. But at $20+ per quart, stuck with the gallon jug of Valvoline DEXRON-III. $14 at Wallyworld. Works for me. Also installed two 4-gauge engine grounds. One from the battery chassis ground location to the block under one of the motor mount bolts. Another from under one of the starter bolts to the chassis. With those in place, and oil in the engine, put +12V on the starter solenoid and very briefly bumped the starter a couple times. Good news, it works. Turns the engine over. No grinding or clashing sounds.

The one thing I was anxious about was getting the Tilton HRB plumbed, bled and working. It’s done and I’m happy to report seems to be working exactly as it’s supposed to. Tilton makes multiple references in their instructions about not pushing the HRB beyond its rated throw (.70 inch) and to install a clutch pedal stop to make sure. I checked very carefully and found that with the clutch pedal hard against the back wall of the footbox, with my setup I'm 1/8 to 3/16-inch less than that. So, no point in adding an additional stop. With the pedal full down, the clutch is completely disengaged. I can easily spin the transmission output yoke with the trans in gear. I can feel it engaging and dragging as the pedal is slowly released and then full grab. Short of driving, I’m confident it’s working correctly. Hard to say about the effort. I went back and forth between #8674 with the Forte hydraulic slave setup and the exact clutch and then the new Tilton setup in the Coupe. I would say the Tilton setup is “maybe” a bit lighter. But it’s not night and day. Both work really well, so no complaints. I’m happy with how easy it was to set up and it’s quite a bit cheaper. Time will tell how it works in the real world and holds up.

This picture shows the now completed driver’s side foobox, including all the RF and Coyote wiring. Even though it's a lot in a small space, I think it turned out pretty well. For the HRB plumbing, I used a 24-inch PTFE-lined stainless hose with a 90-degree end out of the Wilwood 260-10373 13/16 inch MC. You can see the hose going across the top of the footbox, out the same hole as the rear brake line and rear harness, and then attaches to the hose out of the bell housing from the HRB. I tie-wrapped the bleed hose to the supply hose. To bleed, I’ll clip the tie-wraps and bleed from underneath. Very straightforward.



So today I played around with the Gen 3 engine cover and I think have decided how this is going to go. Most don’t care for the new cover. Outside of the Mustang, where it’s designed to fit into the available space, it does look a little “different.” The bigger issue is that with the added complexity of the Direct Injection (DI) in the Gen 3, Ford has clearly given up with the previously used coil covers. Now the only covering for the top of the heads is this wide, flat cover.

To recap, here’s the uncovered engine as it sits today:



Here with the stock unmodified cover added. Note this is for reference only. I’ve already determined it won’t fit under the Coupe cowl. The ends of the “wings” interfere.



My first idea was to cut down the mounts on the cover and bend down the wings to improve the appearance and also allow it to fit. I cut about 3/4-inch off the mounting bosses under the cover and pulled it down with some Gorilla tape just to see what it looked like. Looks a little better maybe, but the difference is pretty subtle. There are multiple places that it interferes underneath preventing it from being bent down any further. I didn’t bother to see if it cleared the cowl.





Not being happy with that minor mod, bit the bullet and cut the wings off. This is what I’ve had in my mind since the beginning. I just ran it through the band saw and still need to clean up and round it a bit. Would look a little more finished. But this is how it looks cut down.





Need to get used to this new look, but I think I like it. I definitely like it better than any of the other options. Assuming I go this way, will do some type of custom paint on the cover like on #8674, again matching the body color. Interested in feedback from others. But be kind. BTW, just for grins set the Gen 2 cover on the engine from #8674. It would have to be heavily modified to fit. Even then might not make it. But if it did, then it would look just like a .... Gen 2. Not going there. Too much work getting this Gen 3 on hand and installed. It's going to keep it's own identity.

[cgundermann]

It looks much better Paul (especially when cleaned up and custom painted). The valve covers/coil-on-plugs look busy and bland. Maybe custom matching covers fabed up or something to bling them...

Just my 2 cents...

Chris

[CVOBill]

Paul, I've been wondering what you can do to make it look better since we spoke at the Detroit Autorama earlier this year. I have to agree with you, the way you cut it and add body color will let it keep it's own identity and look much better than not running a cover or trying to bend it.

[JoeAIII]

In my opinion the modified cover covers the only part of the gen 3 that doesn't need dressing up... The plumbing, wiring, and coils on the heads looks atrocious while the intake manifold is simple and "not unattractive"

I would definitely encourage you to make up something to dress them up if possible, no matter what you do with the stock cover.

That being said, the body may help hide them somewhat as well...

[Jimtmich]

In my opinion the modified cover covers the only part of the gen 3 that doesn't need dressing up... The plumbing, wiring, and coils on the heads looks atrocious while the intake manifold is simple and "not unattractive"

I would definitely encourage you to make up something to dress them up if possible, no matter what you do with the stock cover.

That being said, the body may help hide them somewhat as well...

I agree.

Paul, the engine bay looks very clean. Coming along great!

[wareaglescott]

In my opinion the modified cover covers the only part of the gen 3 that doesn't need dressing up... The plumbing, wiring, and coils on the heads looks atrocious while the intake manifold is simple and "not unattractive"

I would definitely encourage you to make up something to dress them up if possible, no matter what you do with the stock cover.

That being said, the body may help hide them somewhat as well...

While Joe has a point there is a lot to be said for your painted cover drawing the eye to it and away from the unattractive parts he mentions. Kind of like hiding the ugly in plain sight.
With 3D printing technology it sure would be cool if someone had the know how to make something up for the sides that could then be painted to match your top piece like we did on the Gen 2 motor. If someone could come up with it I think it would be quite easy to market and sell and recoup any costs.

You are an innovator with this stuff Paul. I am laying down the challenge! haha

[edwardb]

No surprise. Lots of opinions, and I appreciate all the feedback. The engine cover (or should I say what's left of it) isn't permanent. It snaps on and off and could just as easily be left off if it doesn't look good. If you all think this underhood looks busy now, still missing: Radiator hoses, heater hoses and control valve, A-C hoses and receiver/dryer/trinary switch assembly, PCV hoses, power steering hoses and cooler (those mostly somewhat hidden), wires from the dash (senders, alternator, etc.), and the rest of the Coyote control pack harness. It's a busy place under there with the Coyote and then all the added options. No way any of that or even most of it will be covered up. Some comes over the top of the engine, so the cover does help. But unlike the Roadster, and others, with the tip-up cowl on the Coupe, what's remaining is open to view when tipped up. My build goal is to keep it all as neat, clean and orderly as possible. It might be possible cover up those busy cylinder heads. But we'll see how prominent they really are with everything installed.

[Straversi]

Dave Smith said the Gen II 33 Hot Rod (Blue with red wheels) had a Gen 3 Coyote in it. Only one photo of the engine in the gallery. Sorry, don't know how to cut and paste from the website. Hard to tell since they replaced the stock manifold with the Holly Sniper Hi-Rise but you can see how they fabricated some sheet metal panels to camouflage (not cover) the hoses and coil packs. Dave said he was not entirely satisfied with the results. I imagine people will try variations of this type of cover.

Or, just leave it alone and wow people with the performance. Your Coupe will be a show stopper, no matter what.
-Steve

[Jim1855]

Maybe a Nomex blanket that just snaps to the engine compartment corners and covers everything. Could screen print it to look like a 289 & Webbers.

I don't have a real appreciation for the new EFI motors. But then I'm old and ornery.

Paul, the car and build look great, the motor not so much.

Jim

[P100DHG]

Paul,

The whole world is watching one man solve what an entire corporation with hundreds of engineers couldn’t. Good luck and don’t let us down. LOL!!!!

It comical how Ford let that engine roll off the line and expect customers to solve this problem.

I like the 3D printer idea, I was thinking bead rolled or punched sheet metal painted to match body would be nice and do away with top cover and paint the intake aswell. Thanks for letting us give our input spending your money and time.

-Danny

[Jeff Kleiner]

Dave Smith said the Gen II 33 Hot Rod (Blue with red wheels) had a Gen 3 Coyote in it...Dave said he was not entirely satisfied with the results....

Yeah, I drove it. There are issues...

Jeff

[P100DHG]

CAM22034-1.jpg

Not to hijack this thread by any means but just for relevance to the previous posts. I like the sheet metal work. Looks like they painted the heads blue also.

[q4stix]

That picture looks like a really good solution. It still looks mechanical with the exposed metal but covers up most of the extra wires and tubes of the Gen 3

[edwardb]

Thanks everyone for your feedback and comments. Well, except Jim's snide remark about the Nomex cover with a picture of a 289. After I gave you that nice ride at London you don't appreciate how the modern EFI engines run? Thought I won you over, but obviously I didn't... Just pulling your chain.

Appreciate the link and picture of what FF did with the Hot Rod. Don't know that I would do exactly the same thing (I'm not changing the intake for example) but definitely shows what could be done with some fabrication over the heads. Bottom line for me today is I don't have to decide now, and in fact am going to wait until everything else is in like I already mentioned. Plus having have the body mounted so I can be really sure about what clearance I have. Speaking of that, this morning I got to worrying whether even the modified cover would fit. So set the cowl on the chassis and blocked it up as close as I could to where I expect it to sit. Actually kind of nice to see it that way. Gives a hint at what's ahead.



Then measured and took pics of the clearance. Did something similar when I had the engine mocked up. But not with the whole engine/trans package. Found there's no issue with the CAI clearing, which I was worried about before. The corners of the engine cover are 1/2-inch from the cowl on each side. Tight, but workable should I go that way. Gives me a reference to think about other possibilities.





Also spent a little time last night starting to install the PCM in the mounting I fabricated in front of the passenger side footbox. To be honest, it's closer to the headers than I expected. The similar location frequently used on the Roadster is 4-inches from the nearest edge of the PCM to the headers in the vicinity. Bunch of them have been built this way (including #8674) so don't think it's an issue. As I've said before, those things are made for the underhood environment. But can't do anything stupid either. Where I have it mounted on this build, the bottom edge is about half that distance to the closest header tube. I'm going to work on it some more and raise the PCM more if I can. Looked again at alternate locations and orientations. Just don't see anything, especially when combined with other decisions I've made regarding the wiring and component placing. Worst case is I may need to add a heat shield. But I'll wait until it's running and probably driving and take some heat measurements.

[jdavis500]

Shaker Hood!!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Shaker Hood!!

Hmmmm....I've done this on a roadster so yeah, that might be a possibility for the Coupe



Jeff

[kehenline]

paul, I would appreciate a copy of your list if this is convenient for you to get. thanks

[shark92651]

The one thing I was anxious about was getting the Tilton HRB plumbed, bled and working. It’s done and I’m happy to report seems to be working exactly as it’s supposed to. Tilton makes multiple references in their instructions about not pushing the HRB beyond its rated throw (.70 inch) and to install a clutch pedal stop to make sure. I checked very carefully and found that with the clutch pedal hard against the back wall of the footbox, with my setup I'm 1/8 to 3/16-inch less than that. So, no point in adding an additional stop. With the pedal full down, the clutch is completely disengaged. I can easily spin the transmission output yoke with the trans in gear. I can feel it engaging and dragging as the pedal is slowly released and then full grab. Short of driving, I’m confident it’s working correctly. Hard to say about the effort. I went back and forth between #8674 with the Forte hydraulic slave setup and the exact clutch and then the new Tilton setup in the Coupe. I would say the Tilton setup is “maybe” a bit lighter. But it’s not night and day. Both work really well, so no complaints. I’m happy with how easy it was to set up and it’s quite a bit cheaper. Time will tell how it works in the real world and holds up.

Paul I'm sure you will be more careful than I was, but a word of caution on the Tilton HRB and the clutch stop. I set mine to what they recommended, push pedal until the clutch disengages the transmission + .25" and set the stop. When I went on my first go cart it was grinding a bit putting it into Reverse so I backed the clutch stop out a bit more to address that. I went on my first go cart ride and all was good. Next weekend I took my daughter out on a go cart ride a couple miles around my neighborhood and I had a problem where the clutch would not engage. I would release the pedal with the car in gear and the HRB would not retract, it wouldn't go. Eventually it retracted and I was able to get it back home and in my drive. Once parked, I could not get it to disengage again and had to push it into the garage. After my Thanksgiving trip I was able to take a look. It was hard to get a good measure, but it looked like the HRB was extended about 5/8" but I guess that was too much for the clutch spring to push it back in. I used a long screwdriver and pried it just a bit and it retracted. I re-bled the system, there are no leaks and the pedal feels fine so I assume it just extended a bit too much. I am going to re-set my clutch stop again and be more careful and hopefully I can get it to where it goes into Reverse without grinding, but not so much that it cannot retract. I was very careful when I initially set it up for the 1/8" gap so I don't think that is the issue. Just a heads up!

[shark92651]

You have received plenty of input on the engine cover, but I had a thought. What if you used some aluminum bar and attached it to the underside of whats left of the cover front and rear, bent down the ends to fit nicely, and sort of made a frame that you can cover with aluminum and/or some metal mesh, or combination of, and make your own coil covers that are attached to the engine cover?

[edwardb]

Paul I'm sure you will be more careful than I was, but a word of caution on the Tilton HRB and the clutch stop. I set mine to what they recommended, push pedal until the clutch disengages the transmission + .25" and set the stop. When I went on my first go cart it was grinding a bit putting it into Reverse so I backed the clutch stop out a bit more to address that. I went on my first go cart ride and all was good. Next weekend I took my daughter out on a go cart ride a couple miles around my neighborhood and I had a problem where the clutch would not engage. I would release the pedal with the car in gear and the HRB would not retract, it wouldn't go. Eventually it retracted and I was able to get it back home and in my drive. Once parked, I could not get it to disengage again and had to push it into the garage. After my Thanksgiving trip I was able to take a look. It was hard to get a good measure, but it looked like the HRB was extended about 5/8" but I guess that was too much for the clutch spring to push it back in. I used a long screwdriver and pried it just a bit and it retracted. I re-bled the system, there are no leaks and the pedal feels fine so I assume it just extended a bit too much. I am going to re-set my clutch stop again and be more careful and hopefully I can get it to where it goes into Reverse without grinding, but not so much that it cannot retract. I was very careful when I initially set it up for the 1/8" gap so I don't think that is the issue. Just a heads up!

Thanks for the feedback. I don't think mine was extending quite that far, but still shouldn't be a problem if not exceeding the .70 limit Tilton describes. I'll be watching it very closely when the time comes.

You have received plenty of input on the engine cover, but I had a thought. What if you used some aluminum bar and attached it to the underside of whats left of the cover front and rear, bent down the ends to fit nicely, and sort of made a frame that you can cover with aluminum and/or some metal mesh, or combination of, and make your own coil covers that are attached to the engine cover?

OK, that's scary. Because as of right now, I'm thinking exactly along those lines. Adding aluminum along the trimmed edge and fabricating some type of extension out over the heads. Lower and angled down. I don't expect to make it wide enough to cover the complete heads. Too many obstacles. But would definitely look more finished and cover up the majority of the wiring and hoses (more of which still to be added) that run along the upper edge of the heads.

[edwardb]

This week of the build I’ve been jumping from one thing to the next, and seemingly not making a lot of progress. But in hindsight I guess (hopefully) I have. Focusing on trying to get everything in the engine compartment done. Completed the connection from the fuel regulator to the engine. But radiator hoses, heater hoses, A/C hoses, PS hoses, PCV hoses, and the last of the Coyote wiring still remain. To do it right, at least in my view, no one thing can be taken alone. Often they try to occupy the same space, which in some cases is limited. Also trying to do it as neat and orderly as possible of course.

The first thing was after getting the engine and headers installed, I started having second thoughts about the PCM location. Plain and simple, the headers were closer than I anticipated. After more sitting and staring, and comparing to where the PCM is mounted in #8674, decided to ask my contact at Ford about it. The response I got back wasn’t a surprise, but wasn’t what I wanted to hear. “Too close for comfort” was the official response. Including from some technical guys that were asked about it and shown pictures. I posted pictures earlier in the build thread, so won’t again. But basically it was mounted vertically in front of the passenger side footbox. With it up as high as it could go (limited by the cowl) the bottom edge of the PCM was less than 2 inches from the nearest header pipe. I could flip it over, with the wiring end down, and the PCM was probably an acceptable distance. But then the wire harness and connectors would be similarly close to the headers. Probably even more likely to be at risk. Played around with some ideas to make a heat shield, but finally concluded this orientation wasn’t going to work. I want to get this right the first time, and clearly the mounting I had before was a bad idea.

Short of tearing the engine harness apart, which I’ve said before I just don’t want to do, the large harness and connector coming off the engine to the PCM is the major factor determining the PCM location. So needed to figure out a new mounting in that same general area. The answer became pretty obvious that the PCM needed to be flat on top of the frame in front of the footbox. But it has to stay behind the front splash guards and also the gas strut that holds the cowl up when open. Turns out there’s just enough space in that location to mount it there. Means the heater and A/C hoses around the footbox will need to be re-routed a bit. But I can make it work. The guys at Ford liked my new location. It’s around 12 inches from the headers, much of the underside blocked by the frame, mounting, and footbox. And the heat sinks on the unit point up. Should like it there just fine. Actually further from the headers than the typical Roadster installation including #8674. This general area, with (obviously) the wiring routed and tied down when done:



So, designed and fabricated a mounting bracket from 3/16-inch thick aluminum. Actually, harvested from my #7750 Roadster build where the original owner thought the footboxes needed full 3/16-inch sheet floors. I removed and that material just keeps giving and giving. The mounting bracket is riveted to the frame, with 5/16-18 threads tapped into the bracket and frame on one side and the bracket and a second layer of 3/16-inch thick aluminum on the other side. Added some high-temp silicone rubber sheet pads under the PCM mounting ears, and I think it’s all set. It would be real easy to add a heat shield under the PCM. But unless it turns out to be a problem (I doubt it) thinking it's more important for it to have free airspace. So won't for now.

Installed bracket looks like this:



With the PCM attached looks like this:



The heater control valve doesn’t move, but the hoses from the inside unit will need to come out from the side instead of the top. The A/C hoses from the inside unit will also need to be slightly re-routed, including replacing that #10 hose connection (top one LH side) from a 90-degree fitting to a 45-degree fitting. It’s on the way. I’m also in the process of re-wrapping that large cable from the engine. Just the visible part from the top corner of the head to the PCM using convolute and harness wrap like all the other wiring. That should clean things up a bit. I’m planning to add extensions to the engine cover to hide more of what’s visible from there back.

With that finally done, now to finalize the other two connections to the PCM. The leg from the PDB I had already reworked and it’s fine. The third connection is for the O2 sensors. Interesting. The Gen 1 Coyote had the O2 wires built into the main control pack harness. The Gen 2 Coyote Ford moved them to the stock engine harness. For the Gen 3 they’re back off the engine harness and now have their own dedicated harness connection to the PCM. With a couple challenges. The harness has four O2 sensor connections, duplicating the OE setup with upstream UEGO connectors in the exhaust collectors (the ones we use) and a second set of downstream connectors that are after the cats which we don’t typically install. A call to Ford early in the game said downstream connectors aren’t active in the crate motor program so clip the legs off or tie out of the way. Upon further review now that the PCM is located, found the required connections for the two upstream sensors aren’t remotely close to the right configuration or length. The RH side is way too long, the LH is way too short, all on the end of large single leg. Not very usable IMO. If you want to see what the supplied harness looks like, it’s on page 10 of the Gen 3 control pack instructions. https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...-6017-M50B.PDF

So, to make it a clean sweep, since I’ve re-worked all the other harnesses, stripped off all the harness wrap and convolute. There’s only one wire (power) that’s common to all the connections. The rest are discrete right to the PCM connector. So, clipped off the downstream wires at the connector and they’re both gone. Then, shortened the RH upstream side and while I was at it lengthened the LH upstream side. Note I could have used a standard 24-inch extension for the LH side and it would have worked fine. But figured since I had it all apart anyway, just hard wire the added length and be done with it. Then joined the common power wires and wrapped it back up. Now looks like this. Just a little different.



I measured and ordered the PS hoses and connectors I need from Breeze. Should be here any day. Ordered and received a Mastercool 71550 A/C Hose Crimper. It’s the one recommended in the Factory Five instructions if you want to make the A/C hoses yourself. I do. Interesting tool and will be a new experience. Waiting for a few other parts to arrive early next week and should have everything I need to complete all the connections in the engine compartment.

Free unsolicited editorial comment: This all sounds a little complicated, and maybe it is. But if you’re experienced with stuff like this, probably you are completing in less time than I’m spending doing these updates. If you’re not experienced, probably it seems a little intimidating. Maybe especially the Coyote part. But between the Gen 3 Coupe and the Gen 3 Coyote, much of this is pretty new. I’m learning myself on some of this as I go. As the saying goes, just take it one bite at a time.

[freds]

[QUOTE=edwardb;349182]This week of the build I’ve been jumping from one thing to the next, and seemingly not making a lot of progress. But in hindsight I guess (hopefully) I have. Focusing on trying to get everything in the engine compartment done. Completed the connection from the fuel regulator to the engine. But radiator hoses, heater hoses, A/C hoses, PS hoses, PCV hoses, and the last of the Coyote wiring still remain. To do it right, at least in my view, no one thing can be taken alone. Often they try to occupy the same space, which in some cases is limited. Also trying to do it as neat and orderly as possible of course.

Hi Paul, I was reluctant to "dig deep" and do some serious modifications to the Ford engine harness. I chose to mount the PCM behind the engine. Had to loosen up the Ford harness a bit to get it to the PCM, but not much. I've been busy with the HVAC wiring and control valve, and realize that having a "clean slate" over and around the passenger foot box is an advantage.
Did you consider the location and orientation I have used, and if "yes" I'm curious to know what problems you foresaw.
Thanks
fred
PCM Location.jpg
Engine Harness.jpg

[edwardb]

Hi Paul, I was reluctant to "dig deep" and do some serious modifications to the Ford engine harness. I chose to mount the PCM behind the engine. Had to loosen up the Ford harness a bit to get it to the PCM, but not much. I've been busy with the HVAC wiring and control valve, and realize that having a "clean slate" over and around the passenger foot box is an advantage. Did you consider the location and orientation I have used, and if "yes" I'm curious to know what problems you foresaw.
Thanks
Fred

I assume the pictures of the Gen 2 installation is your build. If so, then you’ve already made your choice so it’s a little bit of an academic discussion. But happy to give some of my thoughts behind what I chose to do. First, I haven’t made any modifications to the engine harness and don’t plan to. The only thing I’m doing is to replace the loose fitting covering with tighter and cleaner convolute and harness wrap. Strictly for appearance where it shows. I did unwrap the PDB control pack harness to remove a couple unneeded wires and move the fan and start wires. Also heavily reconfigured the O2 sensor harness as shown in my last update, which is unique to the Gen 3. While those kind of changes maybe aren’t for everyone, they’re not particularly hard and probably more about my anal desire to keep things neat than true function.

But the full story of my rationale is more of a domino affect starting with the cockpit. One of my big goals for the build is to make the cockpit as finished and functional as possible. Starting with the A/C installation where I wanted more and relocated vents than how Factory Five shows them. Mocking that up, found the added ducts would nearly fill the space behind the dash. That plus what I decided to do with the gauges and switch panel meant for my build none of the Coyote components, e.g. PCM or PDB could not be on the cockpit side of the firewall where some guys put them. That meant the PDB had to either be on the firewall or over in the area of the driver’s side footbox. Since the passenger side is busy with heat and A/C stuff as you mentioned. It may have been possible to fit the PDB and the PCM in the firewall area. But (1) The Gen 3 PCM is bigger than the Gen 2 one and has three block connectors rather than two. So tight at best. Plus I’m keeping this build legal with windshield washers, and the pump/tank I’m expecting also on the firewall. (2) With the PCM on the firewall, the harness leg from the PDB to the PCM is now multiple feet too long. No way would I try to shorten it. I know some guys coil it up and put it under the upper transmission tunnel cover. Maybe that’s what you’re doing. But I just didn’t want to take that approach. (3) Most importantly, at least for me, I just didn’t want to modify the engine harness to reach back to the firewall. The Gen 3 has even more wires than before with the eight added direct injection (DI) connections. With the length that was there, I would have to free it from at least two cylinders and maybe a third. Just didn’t want to go there.

That left putting the PCM over in front of the PS footbox. Cable from the PDB fits there perfectly. Cable from the engine fits there perfectly. The engine cable from the control pack harness (alternator control, MAF) goes around the engine with just the right length. Leaves the firewall to do the power wiring config like I did on #8674 and am comfortable with plus room for the washer pump/tank. Other than my self-inflected error of initially mounting the PCM too close to the headers, the location meets my build criteria all around. I’ve mocked up the heat and A/C hoses that are in that area, and while they need to be re-routed just slightly, they fit without a lot of drama. I also had to relocate the drier/trinary a bit from where Factory Five shows it. But no big deal.

Those are my thoughts in less than 5,000 words. IMO this is more about personal preferences and the overall build plan than it is right or wrong. I'm showing what I did as what works best for me, and right or wrong do put a lot of thought into it. But may or may not be for everyone.

[freds]

Thank Paul, yes it is a Gen2 in my build, and I appreciate your complete chronicle.
1. Agreed... to not put anything in the cockpit that can possibly be elsewhere.
2. Also to save volume behind the dash I made a duct distribution system, I can add vents anywhere without the hose snakes. In the attached picture I have only defroster and Driver side side vent shown. Really clears up the behind-dash space.
HVAC Duct installed.jpg
3. I was very interested in case you noticed something I had overlooked about PCM location, and at this stage could/can easily move the PCM. So that's why I asked.
The goals and thought processes must be very similar to all builders I suppose.

[Paul G]

There are not a lot of good options for mounting computer, this is what I did, it is similar to where it is on the Mustang, etc on the Mustang it is cover with more wire and a fuse block.