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Puma's 818 Build
My name is Eric, but my close friends call me Puma. In college I studied architecture then went back to school for engineering. At one point I used to own a speed shop, and I am fairly handy when it comes to fabrication and custom work. I have a turbo forester, a single cab short bed silverado, and a built G8GT. I am a cobb certified tuner, and have been tuning and building cars for about 20 years. I was always interested in 818's, but just never seemed to be in a good place to take on a build of that magnitude. I also used to have another turbo forester...... which is how I got into this predicament. My wife was driving the "beater" forester and a teenager pulled out right in front of her. She ate up his bumper and the car was deemed a total loss even though it was a fairly easy fix. The forester had such a low blue book value that I contemplated not even reporting it to the insurance, and just fixing it myself. I was hunting parts to fix it when a friend sent me a post of someone selling a partially built 818. They had lost interest and had too many projects going. The forester made for a decent donor and I already owned it so everything seemed pretty straight forward...... I negotiated a price that included delivery and here we go on this crazy ride, as I learn how to build a kit car.
Eric Rue
Last edited by e-rue; 01-11-2019 at 12:04 AM.
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Things that make this build different from the others:
1. This car is built from a forester donor rather than a wrx donor.
2. We are attempting to use a 32bit SAVCS forester wiring harness and ECU.
3. The transmission and TCU will be from a BAJA along with the sport shifter with "tap up tap down" shifting. We will also be attempting to use the JDM paddle shifters behind the forester steering wheel.
4. We will be attempting to retain power brakes, but keep them from being overly sensitive, by using a JDM Miata brake booster.
5. We will be attempting to retain the ABS from the forester.
I will backtrack and update this post as the build progresses.
this is the good forester (my daily)
this is the donor forester (my beater) I dont have many good photos of it, but heres a drone photo from our last get together (it's the silver one in the woods)
Last edited by e-rue; 01-22-2019 at 03:59 PM.
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Eric,
Welcome to the 818 Family. I used a 04 FXT SAVCS as a donor. I have a 05fxt donor parts pile for my second 818 (project on hold).
Here is a link to my schematics, if your interested:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AjxmxU-yAwK9hXLhEcMjnYyAQ39k
Bob
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It might seem like I have a huge headstart given that my car is already a roller...... I am realizing now that given fab work and changes required to use the forester and the automatic trans are putting me WAY behind time wise.
So I took off the transmission tail housing after looking at another video an 818 owner posted. I put it in the vice and cut the back of it off using a sawzall. I then mounted it in the Bridgeport and machined a nice flat surface to mount a block off plate to. Another obstacle was cutting off the output shaft. The modification to the case was a considerable amount of work, and I later found out that subaru made a fwd transmission that I could have robbed the tail housing off of, and would have saved me a bunch of time. Oh well live and learn.....
Last edited by e-rue; 01-10-2019 at 11:19 PM.
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Your attatchment's won't open.......
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Welcome !
With your shop and background I don't see anything that will stop you from doing your car any way you like...
I don't always follow the rules myself - check
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...rt-s-818-build
The more you change the more fun you have.
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As Art said, with your shop and skills you'll be able to do anything you like. This will be fun to watch so please keep posting.
Your attachments won't open so check out this tread about photos. After you use a gallery a few times it becomes easy:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tures-in-posts
Last edited by AZPete; 11-25-2018 at 11:19 AM.
Reason: added link
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
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Awesome. Ill be following this
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That's a really different approach.
Man, some of you guys are so talented. Including our new friend, Puma. I feel like a hack.
What did you do with the other guys donor stuff? Between his donor, and your Forester, you've got parts for days.
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Originally Posted by
Ipassgas
That's a really different approach.
Man, some of you guys are so talented. Including our new friend, Puma. I feel like a hack.
Oh, YOU feel like a hack, huh? I should really share more of my photos with you, lol.
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Well to be honest I was pretty frustrated at how non-user friendly the forum was for hosting photos and I almost gave up. I came back a month later with more patience and learned how to use the gallery, and I resized all my photos and corrected all my links. I also added a few more photos and descriptions as well as a few videos. I also just learned that I can't have more than one video in a post the hard way (UGGGG!) I have a ton of new updates to the build and hope to have time to post them soon!
Puma
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The intake I want to use is the one on the left. Stock intake on the right. The NA intake has larger straighter runners as well as a larger plenum.
This manifold is not exactly a straight forward swap, as the mounting holes for the TGV's dont line up with the ones on the turbo cars. The center holes in the manifold will have to be slotted by hand, but for the outer holes it was easiest to slot the TGV's with Mr. Bridgeport.
Last edited by e-rue; 01-11-2019 at 10:53 AM.
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So the intake manifold is where I got grossly side tracked once again. If it wasn't for this intake I would probably already have the brakes and harness in the car. The intake is really cool, but it has a lot of casting imperfections and mounts or bosses on it that are not used in my application. I decided to remove them and finish up with a thick glossy powder coating.
In this video you can also see the finished TGV's are what is allowing me to bolt the intake to the mill table.
Last edited by e-rue; 01-11-2019 at 04:16 PM.
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Sorry this video is a little shaky its incredibly hard to hold the phone while operating the fordom. Hahahaha. Normally when I do this I get to use both hands.
Last edited by e-rue; 01-11-2019 at 05:52 PM.
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Do you use any type of lubricant when using the fordom and a bit with teeth that small? Mine seems to load up with chips in no time.
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Kurk,
I have seen different recommendations for lubricant, and given the sensitivity of our lungs for any of those products that off gas during high speed grinding........ I have never been comfortable using them given my respirator is particulate only. Over the years I have been successful in dry cutting at relatively low speed. I don't tend to have any issues with the cutters loading up with material. I frequently switch back and forth between single cut and cross cut, with the largest diameter single cut removing material the fastest and also the roughest. I go to a large cross cut to get a smoother finish and a small diameter cross cut to get it smoother still. After that, its sanding rolls. I really hate the fine dust that the sanding rolls create so I don't really like using them, but if you need that level of finish then its a necessary evil. Hope this helps you.
Eric
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I use a bar of soap on my aluminum burrs when grinding aluminum which works for me to keep them from clogging up. As mentioned above tool speed also has a lot to do with the burrs clogging.
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Lots of times I don't use lube, but in the last couple years I've started using this stuff, after seeing some comments on Little Machine Shop ( I think it was there ).
Incredible on everything from drilling, milling, motogrinding, etc. I've got on hand and also tried a number of things over many years, this is the best all around lube I've ever used. The paste is great for hand grinding work like you are showing above, brush a film on and you can go through a fair amount of cutting before you need more. I particular if you have soft aluminum clogging a drill bit or cutting tool, this ends that problem.
Liquid by my drill press:
Boelube Liquid, 4Oz
Soft paste wax consistency for hand tapping, mill, drilling and the rest:
BOELUBE Machining Lubricant - MFR : 70302-12 Container Size: 12 oz
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So I shaved as much of the extra material off the thick flange as I could with the mill, and I have been painstakingly manually grinding everything to the shape and finish that I want. I forgot to take a before and after photo of the flange, so i flipped it to the other side that's not finished yet for the before shot. Both sides are basically the same.
Before
After
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You have an amazing amount of patience Sir! Looks like was never there. Do you intend to powder coat or leave as is.
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So I think when I started this build I was just unwilling to admit that I didn't have enough time to put into building the car...... was working full time, went back to school for another degree, and had 2 kids from a previous marriage, and was getting married again...... so anyway I wasn't getting much done on the car other than in between semesters and on holidays. It has been a long time since I updated the thread here and thought tonight was a good time to do it.
Graduation should leave me a lot more time to tinker with this build!
Last edited by e-rue; 12-08-2019 at 09:39 PM.
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at first i wasn't sure what that LSA blower, was for until i saw the g8. welcome.
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So jumping back to the gas tank, I bought adapter fittings that convert the tank hard lines to -6AN. Unfortunately the garbage hanger unit that fits this gas tank changes size right in front of the end of the line so I had to machine a recess into the fitting to be able to use it. (slaps forehead)
Last edited by e-rue; 01-12-2020 at 09:26 PM.