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I haven't yet - but they will probably go somewhere around where the steering shaft comes out of the firewall. There's lots of space over there.
I also will be installing the wood bed soon. My dad did the work but it will have black core-trax and the lip of the gas filler is recessed in the wood. My design goal was to have a cardboard box slide around the bed without snagging on anything.
IMG_6645.JPG
Originally Posted by
rponfick
Thanks for the comments. Where did you put your horns?
We have been missing you.
Ralph
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The Radiator sandwich
Here is how I have the radiator and AC condenser mounted. I will admit it was a total PITA when I did it.
The sandwich goes like this
Rivnut
Grill tab
Spacer
AC condenser bracket
spacer
Radiator Tab
Machine screw to the rivnut
IMG_6686.jpg
IMG_6687.jpg
Last edited by Stillwater35; 11-20-2018 at 08:40 AM.
Reason: My awesome spelling
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Senior Member
2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
Deep Impact Blue
2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.
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That certainly moves the radiator back a bit from the grill. Looks good.
Let the improvision continue.
PS: I noticed on your first start video you are running the side exhaust option. Do you think you will stay with that. I just mocked mine up and they are really low to the ground. I guess I could have a different pipe bent that may work, as I like the side option.
I am also playing with the pipes they provide that dump in front of the rear axle, but they are so close to crossmembers that I don't think you can prevent rattles. And, blowing dust all over everything is not a pleasant picture.
Ralph
Last edited by rponfick; 11-22-2018 at 01:44 PM.
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The bed is in
My dad came up and we got to work on putting the wood bed with Core Trax as slats in place.
Step 1:
Map out where the frame is under the metal bed panel. You need to know this later when you're drilling holes for the slats.
IMG_6750.jpg
Step 2:
Lay everything out and make sure your fuel filler hole is lined up. Then start marking the center line of the slats. The bolts are 1/4" wide and we left 1/4" gap on either side for expansion and contraction. That's a total of 3/4" between each board. Once we had that we could mark where the holes were to be drilled, noting which holes we are going to skip because of frame interference:
IMG_6774.jpg
IMG_6775.jpg
IMG_6776.jpg
Step 3:
We lifted the metal up on 2x4s over the frame. This allowed us to tighten everything, including the bolts that are over the fuel tank. We are going to bolt through the bulkhead at the front of the bed and panel bond the bed to the frame when we're all the way done.
IMG_6777.jpg
IMG_6778.jpg
IMG_6781.jpg
Step 4:
Run bolts through the trax and in to the steel. Then use the tie downs and and rope to lift the whole unit up and down in to place. Also we routed the opening for the fuel filler so the filler sat flush. The design goal here was I could slide a cardboard box across the bed floor without getting snagged on anything
IMG_6782.jpg
Step 5:
Dream of summer cruises with a cooler full of ice cold beverages. HEre's a pic of my dad (Tom) who should get all the credit for the woodwork and angle bracket engineering!
IMG_6784.jpg
Last edited by Stillwater35; 12-09-2018 at 07:56 AM.
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Looks very nice.
I have a couple of lengths of track that I plan on using also.
Thanks for posting the process.
Less thinking I have to do!
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PLATNUM Supporting Member
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Senior Member
2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
Deep Impact Blue
2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.
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Jeff , your White Oak floor looks great . The Core Trax is a great idea.
Now that you have done it, would you recommend the combination to another builder ?
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To every single one. I am really excited about the prospect of being able to secure things in the back for car shows and road trips. There isn't a lot of storage options in the cab. I am also biased, as you can imagine.
Also, welcome to the forum.
Originally Posted by
HotRod~Al
Jeff , your White Oak floor looks great . The Core Trax is a great idea.
Now that you have done it, would you recommend the combination to another builder ?
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Jeff,
We have a special reason to be interested in your build. My wife and I sold your dad Tom the White Oak lumber.
30 years ago I had a 1923 T Bucket , but sold it and got married and started our Sawmill business.
Sence then we have not had time , space, or money for a toy. March of 18 we bought a 71 C10 to ease back into the sport.
When your dad showed up and told us FF had a truck and you were building one, that got us thinking.
While talking to your dad, he mentioned that a particular shop was going to help you with the body work and paint.
Is that still the plan ?
We would like to see the truck if possible.
For some reason I do not get Email notification for this thread.
So I’ll have to just check back for your reply.
Al
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Just sent you a PM. Thanks for reaching out!
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Like many here - I got my seat installed. it wasn't easy and the fit was really tight. I would take out the trans tunnel piece to line up your holes in to the frame. Also, pad the back of the seat or the lower supports of the roll bar to protect the back of your seat. I have some repairs to do to the back of the seat. I also made a cut in the seat frame that made life 100% easier for installs. I e-mailed Tony and he said that it shouldn't matter and I agreed. So out came the hacksaw.
I also needed longer lag bolts in to the frame for mounting. So I got 5/16" x 3" grade 8 bolts. Work like a champ.
I'm 5'9" with a 30" inseam and I am happy with the seat placement. That's just a point of reference for everyone.
image1.jpeg
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Jeff, I see you are fitting the 5 point belts that came with the kit. What is your opinion on how they will work.
I see Wallace has opted to go with the optional 3 point. I would like to use the 5 point, which is certainly not as convenient as a 3 point, but decisions, decisions. I have lived with the 5 point for 7 years now on my roadster.
Thanks, Ralph
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It's ok. The length you get out of the lap belts doesn't feel like enough really. Maybe I'm just routing it wrong through the seats. I'm not a big guy, and it works, but there isn't a lot of extra. I have my 6 year old who will ride with me, so she will be getting a booster and a 5-point. I feel real good about how safe that is, and so does her mother.
I have considered running both honestly. Not at the same time, but have them both bolted in and go in-between.
Originally Posted by
rponfick
Jeff, I see you are fitting the 5 point belts that came with the kit. What is your opinion on how they will work.
I see Wallace has opted to go with the optional 3 point. I would like to use the 5 point, which is certainly not as convenient as a 3 point, but decisions, decisions. I have lived with the 5 point for 7 years now on my roadster.
Thanks, Ralph
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It’s been a while since my last update. Lots of progress to report. It is finally warming up here in Minnesota.
I made the decision to drive it in gelcoat this season. I want to get all the bugs figured out and meter out when I spend $10k on body/paint.
I installed the power windows. The gap you need to cut is at minimum .7 inches all the way around. Also, I think the corners will need to get a wider gap as the trim bunches up there and causes too much friction with the window. I mounted the switches on either side of the hvac controls above the gauges.
The seatbelts/seat install was a chore. I want to feed the belts through the seats for a clean install. That means you have to have the seat in the truck, while you bolt in the belts. Maybe there is a better way, but kinda tough.
Also, make sure you install the ebrake boot before the seat. I think I need to loosen my seat again to finish that.
The order I would follow is
Carpet, brake boot, seat half way in, seatbelts, seat all the way in.
Check out the pics.
5DAE5B0B-C2FA-4768-B9C8-614E18BAA289.jpeg
62666580-04FA-4C81-BCF7-48E7D2A97F3A.jpeg
7F6D22EC-09B5-41A5-A8EF-EC3CBB13DE50.jpeg
896E62DC-FCA2-4549-B275-B538D78A6D64.jpeg
https://twitter.com/vizmills/status/...251478528?s=21
Last edited by Stillwater35; 05-18-2019 at 01:26 PM.
Reason: Embedded video
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You should see some of this in the video on twitter, but the wire loom stuff from summit is awesome at cleaning everything up.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...yABEgI8JPD_BwE
10/10 would use again
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Senior Member
Very cool, that kid looks like a hot rodder in the making.
2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
Deep Impact Blue
2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.
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Well I think I owe people some updates:
1. I have my inspection scheduled with the State of Minnesota for June 5th. I have to drive 90 minutes out of the way to do it. Otherwise to get it done in St. Paul, MN it was going to be October at the earliest
2. My water pump started leaking. BluePrint Engines stood behind their warranty and sent me a whole new pump and gaskets. I took this opportunity to buy the Boig cool tube. That should arrive this week.
IMG_0766.jpg . IMG_5729.jpg
3. Got the glass installed - had a mobile glass installer come to my house. Took them under 1 hour and I'm glad it's done.
IMG_7367.jpg IMG_7733.jpg IMG_9868.jpg
4. My kit was an early kit so it had the 33 exhaust. When they sent me the turn-down exhaust I didn't get the hangers. I also didn't like the idea of the length of those hangers, so I bought these - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stw-th902-5bc
I cut them to be flush to the frame, drill/tapped the holes and they work awesome to keep the exhaust from rattling against the frame (which it was doing).
IMG_0868.jpg IMG_0209.jpg
5. Got the windows and door panels done. Please put on your side mirror before your window glass is in. Ask me how I know!
IMG_2043.jpg
I just need to finish the water pump swap, run new coolant through it and trailer it up to St. Cloud. Getting closer with Chassis #8
Here it is sounding pretty nice
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05-19-2019, 02:51 PM
#100
Did the glass guy fab up any type of rubber grommet, or just use an adhesive? You want a neat job if just adhesive.
Thanks, Ralph.
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05-19-2019, 03:41 PM
#101
They put a 1/3” foam-ish gasket on the back of the glass. Makes it a nice appearance.
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05-19-2019, 04:34 PM
#102
Senior Member
Great job !!!! No biggie on the glass it will need to come back out to paint anyway the final fit is the important one. Good luck on your inspection. Did you install wipers ? I’m in Illinois idk if I have to have them or not for when the time comes. I really don’t want them or plan on using them. Rob
FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600
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05-19-2019, 06:14 PM
#103
I am going no wipers. My understanding of MN process is that this is NOT a safety inspection (they say this right on the form) but it is a "did you buy the major components of your car and can you prove ownership inspection. I have all that lined up from Kit, Engine, Trans, Rearend, and Wheels/tires.
You are right - I didn't have them go hog wild on the windshield so that they can cut it out later without destroying it. I'm planning on solely gel-coat miles this year, paint over the winter and then being all done!
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05-26-2019, 01:24 PM
#104
I re did my cooling hoses. Everyone should buy the cool tube from Bob at Boig. Really nice and way better than what you get in the kit.
Next I found a gates hose that let me get the filler higher than the radiator and as handled then job from the SBF filler to the radiator. Ive posted photos below.
185B81B8-4E7C-4F12-9DCE-3FEC8B4FABE8.jpeg
8546B6A2-2886-43E2-8CEE-9720A8422643.jpeg
03684F71-BA6A-4981-A860-6AA171B907D3.jpeg
6F6361BC-6EC5-4B92-975D-3D3094815BD2.jpeg
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05-26-2019, 01:29 PM
#105
Here’s a cut diagram from the one hose! Comments on my penmanship are summarily agreed with.
E932A35E-FD45-4EAB-B745-9EC06C37C934.jpeg
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06-05-2019, 05:48 AM
#106
Today is DMV day. Wish me luck! I’ll report back on the process and the result.
8711DCCB-890B-45CD-B6C7-88EEEDB53E5D.jpeg
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06-07-2019, 07:14 AM
#107
I’m legal!
98D51F60-04B3-4F79-98C0-CE99056241E5.jpeg
AE6F9893-6A6C-4E9B-AA8A-3B3378698DDF.jpeg
78C35D2C-5BE1-4323-9367-037A84A2CDD3.jpeg
I’m legal! I will be making a separate thread about the whole MN registration process
Now I can check my drive line angles, have a bit of transmission vibration at 60. Had never gone that fast before.
I can also take the truck in for an alignment too, it’s too twitchy and needs one!
I got insurance through State Farm on their classics/antique policy at $19/month with the same coverage levels as my normal cars, no mileage limits and a set agreed upon replacement value.
370 days from nothing to legal. Bodywork happens this winter. But now we roll!
Last edited by Stillwater35; 06-07-2019 at 07:39 AM.
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06-07-2019, 07:21 AM
#108
Senior Member
FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600
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06-07-2019, 09:08 AM
#109
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06-07-2019, 09:29 AM
#110
PLATNUM Supporting Member
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06-07-2019, 05:33 PM
#111
Senior Member
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06-07-2019, 08:46 PM
#112
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06-18-2019, 09:03 AM
#113
Just a little update:
I went on vacation to NYC and came home to a title from the Minnesota DMV. I was super surprised at 2 things - that it came so quickly and that they accepted it because the woman at the local DMV tried to register it as a 1935.
Here's a quick drive by that gives potential builders a look at some details.
Then here is the title. I got my desired plate of "HMBLT35"
IMG_7695.jpg
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06-19-2019, 09:36 AM
#114
Getting my alignment done and couldn't help but park with the other trucks.
IMG_7702.jpg
Yes - it is lower than the window sill of a stock Ram1500
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06-19-2019, 10:20 AM
#115
Looks like you have pretty good clearance at bottom of grill. What do you think your clearance is Did you adjust your springs up a lot, tire size, or to what do you attribute?
My shocks are up as far as I can get with weight off, and turning adjuster by hand. It appears impossible to get an adjuster wrench on the shocks if mounted downward as FFR suggests, which I did. I would not relish taking the whole front end off to turn them upside down.
Great job. Ralph
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06-19-2019, 10:45 AM
#116
The front of my frame is 4.5" and the rear is 5" off the floor. I measured this morning. I used my fingernail to count that I'm 15 threads up the sleeve on the coil over.
I was also thinking of cranking up the shocks a little bit. Have you tried a spring compressor and then spin the hats after the springs are shorter?
And yes, a Koni coilover wrench is an impossibility. Assume you can get it on, you can't move them almost at all...
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06-21-2019, 01:42 PM
#117
I just noticed the latest pdf version (April, 2019)of the assembly manual shows adding grease on the washer that the adjuster nut sits on. Also, indicates that different length shocks are now used front to rear, possibly due to frame redesign after ours.
Ralph
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06-25-2019, 09:48 AM
#118
This morning I put on 60 miles in a single drive. I've now got over 115 miles on after becoming legal.
It turns 1700rpm at 60.
The Trans Cooler is working great as it just stays pegged at 160 no matter what I did to it.
I lowered the tire pressure to 25 all around and it makes a world of difference. Just nice and smooth.
I finally got the secondaries opened up and man does it haul. Because it's so loud, you have to readjust your opinion of what fast sounds like.
Here is a pic of me loaded up for Crusin' on St. Croix which is a bi-weekly car meet up in Minnesota. http://cruisinonthecroix.com/
IMG_7758.jpg
IMG_7757.jpg
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06-26-2019, 01:18 AM
#119
awesome. i cant wait to get to that point Your tie down rails worked out great Good luck and post pictures!
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07-01-2019, 04:59 PM
#120
I used the website Fiverr and had someone build me a logo. What do you all think?
Raspberry Ridge Speed Shop 2.png