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Thread: Turbo, Supercharger or NA 302

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  1. #10
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    I'm sure you've heard the old saw -- buy cheap / buy twice. Most folks look at first cost and not the whole system. They don't think about the fact that anytime you make more HP you add heat and stress to the engine (remember, to get more power requires burning more fuel which adds stress not only to the engine but the cooling system too).

    You can bolt on a lot of cheap HP to an OEM engine but without a good foundation (think forged rotating assembly at minimum) you will have to take a conservative approach or you may likely see the limit of what your bottom end can take. Engines designed to run boost typically have forged rotating assemblies, pistons & rings are designed for the additional heat and stress, the ring gaps are wider than a N/A engine, and even the style spark plugs are spec'd to shed heat faster than a typical projected tip plug.

    Want more power? There's no substitute for cubic inches except cubic money. Turn that little engine into a bigger engine if you think you need more power. But you may be surprised how peppy that light car is with 300 WHP. Back in the muscle car days of the late 60's 300 flywheel HP in a 3500 lb car was considered fast. I was a Ford mechanic back when the big power Mustangs were popular and thought they were so fast. Today my lighter FFR machine with a moderate power small black is way faster than those machines from back in the day -- it's all power to weight.
    Last edited by David Hodgkins; 01-23-2019 at 01:34 PM. Reason: fixed auto mask
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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