Hello all. Trying to get a clear vision of how to finish the aluminum panels in particular those in the engine bay. What have others done? Anyone willing the share pictures/ advice would be terrific
Thanks
Nick
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Hello all. Trying to get a clear vision of how to finish the aluminum panels in particular those in the engine bay. What have others done? Anyone willing the share pictures/ advice would be terrific
Thanks
Nick
Nick,
I'm sure you'll get lots of responses with what others have done and what they like. I'll tell you what I did, and what I'd do if I were doing it again. I wanted a durable finish that would be low maintenance. I also wanted to do it myself to save some money. I ended up prepping my panels and spraying a Rustoleum bed liner on them. I was pretty pleased with the look, but here are the problems with this choice. First, the finish chips/scratches much easier than I would have expected it to. It is nowhere near as durable as a professionally sprayed bed liner like Line-X. Second, the textured finish makes it difficult to remove dirt from. There is just enough texture that any cloth or paper towels leave lint behind.
So, if I had it to do over, I would have just left the aluminum raw and used Shark Hide to prevent it from oxidizing or corroding. If I really wanted color on the panels, I would have paid the money to have them powder coated.
I hope this helps give you some info to help you decide what to do with yours.
Dave
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
Did bed liner. With the Coyote very little of the alloy actually shows, not worth the effort to me to polish it. Bed liner mends easy with a quick spray. Footboxes & Firewall are ThermoTec
Over the course of the build use xylene, toluene, acetone & alcohol to clean the panels. All did a good job all were used outside. Then went with a aluminum etching rattle can primer finally the bedliner. Panels including the underside of the car are all in good shape with 10K+ miles.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 01-22-2019 at 10:25 PM.
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15
I put a clear matt powdercoat on.Engine.jpg
FFR Complete MKIV Kit (#8271)
Ordered: Jan 21, 14, Registered: Aug 19, 15
408 Keith Craft Engine (512 hp, 534 ftlb), Tremec TKO600, Fast EFI, 8.8 Solid 3.55:1 Rear End, FFR Replica Halibrands (9 & 10-1/2"),
Dual Chrome Roll Bars/Bumpers/Polished Exhaust, Guardsman Blue with Wimbledon White Stripes
Nick, I used POR15 rattle can with the full degreaser and metal prep. That was before I saw the "powder coating light". Over all its OK but not nearly as durable as powder coat. Half way into my build I'm not going to go back and redo but if I had to do over definitely would powder coat.
Mark
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
Finished 10.jpgIMG_0275.jpg
Goals; bare aluminum (no coatings), hide scratches, low maintenance, inexpensive, dress it up a little.
Finish; "swirled" aircraft aluminum, automotive paste wax.
Result; 1 year in and still looks like the day I installed it. Cleans easily, inevitable scratches are hard to spot and can be "erased" with some careful spot buffing.
MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands
Thank you very much for that info. Another pre build decision made, thats the second one today... Did you do anything other than clean with solvent prior to powder coating? Also, thinking it might be smart to powder coat even before drilling, to protect from scratches from an early stage?? Thoughts?
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
Yes, drill prior to powder coating. You will have to "chase" some of the holes after powder coating however. I cleaned the aluminum with a solvent, sanded with 120 gritt paper and then all the way to 400 gritt, and then I but a slight finish in the aluminum with a fine scotch brite in one direction.
FFR Complete MKIV Kit (#8271)
Ordered: Jan 21, 14, Registered: Aug 19, 15
408 Keith Craft Engine (512 hp, 534 ftlb), Tremec TKO600, Fast EFI, 8.8 Solid 3.55:1 Rear End, FFR Replica Halibrands (9 & 10-1/2"),
Dual Chrome Roll Bars/Bumpers/Polished Exhaust, Guardsman Blue with Wimbledon White Stripes
I guess i'll experiment a bit with sanding/ scotch brite to see how it looks like. I powder coat myself, so that won't be a problem, except maybe the larger panels. Still a long way from building, but it is nice to get those questions that suddenly pop into my head answered.
IMG_1070.JPG I used a silver powder coat and it turned out great.
If you powder coat yourself I think that would be your answer. I powder coated most of the panels myself, the only ones I didn't do was the firewall and driver foot box. And that was only because they wouldn't fit in my home oven and could of modified it to fit if I really wanted. You really don't need to powder coat all the aluminum panels. The ones that faced the bottom of the car or faced the outside I used Raptor liner. The kit is $99 and you can do all the panels with the kit. On the interior panels and trunk panels I sprayed Lizard skin. Most of the panels that will be seen can be powder coated by you. I did get good powder I think that makes a difference, the Eastwood and Harbor Freight powders are not that great in my opinion. I bought Prismatic powders that are two part base and clear coat. The clear makes it really durable. I think they have really good powders and a large selection. Powder coat and you will never say I wish I would of done anything else. All these panels in the pic I did myself and the rivets also.
.
Last edited by Paul2STL; 01-23-2019 at 10:48 PM.
MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +,First Start 4/7/18, First Go-Cart 4/22/18, In gelcoat, licensed and driving 8/11/18. Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Halibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Cobra front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering. Paint Jeff Miller Da Bat, Lexus Spectra Blue Mica W/Toyota Silver Sky Metallic strips. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Paul2STL-Build
Powder coat defiantly, super durable and if you shop around can be done for a reasonable price. Gloss colors especially black don’t hide scratches well so my vote is on a mat or semi gloss is lighter colors like silver or white. Although black can be done just be careful on the handling not to mar the finish to badly that you can see the flaw. I did gloss black and if I did it again I may do a semi gloss silver.
Mk4, Moser M88 rear end, Eaton truetrak, Craft Racing 461 Windsor, MMR pro trans, Glenn’s 1,000 hp cobra fuel system and lots of other parts.