E brake handle installed
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E brake handle installed
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tranny fill, Oil fill, coolant and rear end
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Wiring start
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For the 302 block the oil pressure sending unit needs an extension so it clears filter
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Learning to shift
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Missed the exhaust install
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Ok ready to roll
I have posted most of my steps for the last couple of months and probably missed some. Just happy to be making the progress I have and need to add that i am totaly enjoying this adventure.
So go carting time has come, i hit a lot of hurdles on this day but did end up getting them resolved.
started with electric fuel pump, i have never worked with one and assumed it should get to pressure and then shut of but the one I have for a carburetor engine does not shut off, apparently Ok but I will put a regulator with shut off down the road, any comments or ideas welcome.
Next was my incorrect wiring of the starter, I have changed a few in the past but always just removed and wired up as I took off. So from wiring diagram i assume i needed to ground this and was wrong, a bit of research cleared this up.
I had taken the distributor out to hook up coolant line fitting and now had this in wrong and had to redo, did have this figured but took time for a greenhorn like me.
All stressed i did get it fired up
I did a few small runs down the street.
Ended up setting timing and adjusting electric choke and idle screw.
Have an exhaust leak but left on vacation so can deal with that once back but should not be a big deal
My son went down the road and actually came back
Not sure whats up, I can see video from this site
Is there any way to post video without youtube
Body work started
set body in place and measured every way possible. ended up with different size spacers in wheel well to frame area, without this body was hitting door mount.
started with the trunk, curve of body and trunk don't match up so like others I put in some bracing. Pic showing original fit
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So I made a template and then cut plywood to fit shape
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I used plywood for stability and then made hardwood inserts where I will be bolting plywood to body
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I used rivnuts to bolt plywood to frame
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You can see the gap in pic below, I pulled the trunk into shape with ratchet straps
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used a caulking adhesive and bolted plywood to trunk
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happy with final fit and shape, trunk also lifts up a lot nicer with a more stable feel.
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Next up I will fiberglass these pieces
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No pics
All good
So I did fiberglass and onto mounting trunk, unmounted sits perfect where I want it. very tough to line up with hinges and latch.
Ran into trouble with drivers side hinge arm hitting gas tank, I have the FFR stock tank. NO room to move arm location (set mounting points welded) and tank only has 1 place to sit. I grinded the arm and I feel it will have sufficient strength, I will go back later and do the other side to match. For sure need a break from removing trunk lid again. Other unknown problem when trying to get to fit was when coming down trunk lid was hitting flange for weather striping, just grinded some away and was all good will do the entire opening for an even spacing.
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For the latch I needed to get FFR to send me a longer pin (same size as used for front hood). according to parts list and packaging the short one I received is for the trunk and the hood has a longer one so I used it and things worked. Latch is tough to line up and couldn't find anyone small enough to climb in to see what was happening when closing trunk LOL. not sure what others have done but after the fact was thinking maybe setting a live camera up to see would have worked better than the multiple open/close test
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33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.
Good advice
I think it was the back panel that I struggled to get inside the trunk with body on so I put all the aluminum in with body off. Thinking the access holes would work but struggled with access through them.
Slatwall
It comes in 4 * 8 sheets and and just screws to the wall, lots of different hooks available.
There are different brands around, in my trade we did use this product for retail stores to display their products.
Here is a link to a supplier in Canada, some lumber yards cab also get this product.
https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
installed windshield with some support to keep body shape and then later fit hardtop to body
I notched a piece of L-shape aluminum and bent it to fit shape of underside of windshield, epoxied this in place under the windshield using the windshield studs. Then i epoxied a piece of flat stock to the L-shape to hold the piece to fit the curve. Now when I remove the windshield the body remains in the same shape without flexing.
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Last edited by Bgardner; 01-06-2020 at 07:16 PM.
Doors done, faced similar problems as everyone else. Will be interesting when doing the power windows.
Fit hood and engine side panels, For this I kept the grill as far forward as brackets would allow to start and was OK to keep it there.
I did shave off all fiberglass as close as I could to the half round reveal on the engine side panels and was lucky enough not to need to cut these like others have.
Trouble with the striker pin clearing the rad aluminum so needed to file some and make things fit.
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Last edited by Bgardner; 01-06-2020 at 07:18 PM.
Not sure why some of my pics are showing and some are showing as attachments.
Will try and work on it in next day or so.
To fasten the engine side covers to the body I glued and fiber glassed some blocks inside and then bolted these to the firewall. now I will not need to have an exposed fastner when hood open.
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I made the engine side covers removable, so i cut panel and fiber glassed blocks on each piece to bolt together when covers in place.
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To keep the front part of the engine side cover in place I fit some notched aluminum blocks to slide onto lip of front grill, Once i slide it in place it gets mounted to the nose cone and also held in place with headlights. As per side engine panel to firewall I will also not have any exposed fasteners here.
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Pics of the engine side covers on and off
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Pic of possible vent to go on engine side covers, I have done short little runs up the street and find there is a lot of heat building up in engine compartment real quick. any feedback regarding must have ventilation or not.
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Like your rear fender cuts!
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
Thanks, not sure how many rocks/pebbles will be thrown but happy with the look of the shape.
it was fun to copy shape to other side, when done I found out everything is not perfectly balanced but without taking measurements no one will know
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As per previous pics I do have my hardtop on and bolted in place. I will be having a body shop do all my final fit and finish, for the hardtop I will get them to set the curve to fit the body. some of you guys have done a great job with this on your builds.
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I did cut back the window openings, scribed and trimmed. was surprised and happy to see this little clean up made the car look even better.
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With the hard top I did spin 1 of the rivnuts, very frustrating getting bolt removed. Got lucky but potential problems could cause a lot of damage. Figured out using a clamp to compress the rivnut tool works well and gives a good feel of control.
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Made a walnut wood dash for gauges. started with a flat 5/16 thick piece of walnut and cut it shape of dash with 1/2 inch inset. scribed dash to get shape for form to shape walnut too. the dash curves in and out along with different shape on top and bottom.
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Made a steamer that would allow dash to fit then steamed walnut and clamped in form
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Made some aluminum fasteners to mount dash. works well with no bolting from back and stays tight, easy to remove and replace.
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I mounted the dash out from fiberglass 1/4 inch and put LED lights on the back to reflect off the fiberglass dash (will be painted same colour as body). needed to source a LED strip light that was able to go around the curved shape.
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Very cool Bob, looks fantastic!! You're making full use of your wood working skills.
I gave up using that lame tool for the rivnuts and bought an Astro Pneumatic 1450 - makes the job so much easier...
Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition
Like the backlighting!
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/