Insert Unigue Build Name Here

[Jeff Kleiner]

Was prepping the shocks although I am waiting on a lost box from FFR with a lot of my IRS components but I do have everything for the fronts. The manual states that the front shocks are shorted then the rear by 2.5" It appears that all my shocks are the same length.

The front shocks are different length than the rear if you are using a solid axle (I think the manual makes this distinction but haven't looked). You have IRS. Be sure to note that the springs are different front to rear. Also, before installing springs on the shocks check the rebound adjustment on the shocks---they are supposed to leave the factory set to full soft but a few times over the years I've found that isn't always the case (Just happened again when I was putting coilovers together for a Gen3 Coupe a couple weeks ago and discovered that 3 were set correctly and one was not).

Good to hear that the ball joints went in without issues!

Carry on and good luck!

Jeff

[Texas Driver]

For some reason I have always disliked drilling holes. Maybe I had to do it to many times in cabinets tweaked in odd positions at work growing up. Funny thing is, this is kinda addicting in a way to drill and cleco the panels. Wife didn't get to help tonight cause the kiddo has a test tomorrow and homework from his soccer coach to right a very short report on his favorite player. She was bummed since she loves the cleco's for some reason.

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I am thinking this color for the visible panels under the hood.
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[John Dol]

My struggle is if I want to go with all gloss metallic black or do everything in a satin metallic black finish.

Here's some food for thought. I blacked out all my outside accessories too and they are satin. If you like the look you got your answer
, if you don't you do too!

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HTH,


John

[Texas Driver]

Chuggin on along. F panels on and front control arms on and torqued. Painted the shock spacers with Rust-Olium Pro paint to keep from rusting. I plan to take several items to my buddy to do the powder coating next week like the E-brake hardware.
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On to more drilling....and more drilling.....and more drilling.....Hope to have all panels drilled by this weekend.
I do have a question. I did not see in the manual to drill and attach the bottom of the foot boxes to the round frame that surrounds the foot box. I think I am going to attach the lower panel to that as well with rivets unless anyone has a reason I should not. Pic attached with circle around where I am talking about.
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[DadofThree]

I do have a question. I did not see in the manual to drill and attach the bottom of the foot boxes to the round frame that surrounds the foot box. I think I am going to attach the lower panel to that as well with rivets unless anyone has a reason I should not. Pic attached with circle around where I am talking about.
Floor.jpg

Looking Great!

You can rivet to the bottom round if you wish, but remember to get the drill bit centered on the crown of that tube. Moving the drill bit to one side or the other of the crown puts the drill bit in a "I will break on you" position if not careful. (ask me how I know) I have a few rivets in that bottom tube myself.

What I found to be important was to lay that bottom alum floor panel on the 90* tabs of the footbox side walls. This helped support the bottom floor piece to help the strength of the floor panel.

[Texas Driver]

Hard to get much done when I only have a little time here and a little there to wrench.
Was able to get the trunk panels drilled and ready. I still need to get more of the Interior panels drilled and fit. Seems every time you look, more spots need to be drilled and cleco'd.
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Steering rack went on pretty well after I drilled out the PS front mount a little more. I was not lined up very well at all and I couldn't even slide the bolt through both holes with no rack on it. Ordered the Moog ES2150RL tie rod ends that Paul suggested in his build. Crazy the cost difference in some places. I was going to grab them from O'Reilly for $53 each then searched Amazon and they were $19 each. They were advertised as Moog so we will see if they actually are when they get here. I've been using bright orange tape on items that need to be completed such as the castle nut for the upper ball joint. I needed a hardened washer to allow the castle nut to line up with the carter pen hole.
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I think I am missing the proper bolt for the pedal box clutch assembly. Instructions say I should be using a 1.25" long hex bolt but the only one in the bag the sent with the other pedal box hardware was 2" long. I'll be running by the hardware store to grab one and finish this part up. Who has painted or powder coated the metal brackets for the pedal box?
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[Boydster]

I had all my pedal box parts powdercoated black. No issues with assembly.

[dbo_texas]

Just found your build thread - looks like your build plan is very similar to mine. I'm also planning to do the blacked out look similar to the Backdraft RT3B series. I have similar questions regarding gloss black vs. satin/matte on all the accessories & trim. I know the pipes will be satin since that is what the high temp black coating looks like. But not sure about the other items. I'll see what you do on yours and then make a decision Good luck on your build - I'll be keeping track along the way.

[sread]

Hey man. I am literally just around the corner from you.(I think - that looks like Foster High school in your unloading pics). I am in the process of buying an unfinished 33 Hotrod kit from a guy up near Chicago, but have to go up and drag it back home (if it ever thaws out). I always wanted a Cobra, but at 6' 4" with size 14's I decided it was just going to be too cramped.
Anyways, maybe we can meet up some time and compare notes.

[Texas Driver]

Hey man. I am literally just around the corner from you.(I think - that looks like Foster High school in your unloading pics). I am in the process of buying an unfinished 33 Hotrod kit from a guy up near Chicago, but have to go up and drag it back home (if it ever thaws out). I always wanted a Cobra, but at 6' 4" with size 14's I decided it was just going to be too cramped.
Anyways, maybe we can meet up some time and compare notes.

Hey Sread. That is Foster High School in the unload pics. PM me your number and ill shoot you a text some time. I am actually in the garage with a buddy tonight building.

[Texas Driver]

QUESTION:
On page 123 of the build manual it says to bolt on the clutch quadrant stop and it shows a switch. I do not have the switch but I do have the brackets. Is this to be used with the Coyote build? It didn't show to bolt it on in the first part of the quadrant assembly but after...….I am a bit stumped.
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[Texas Driver]

Not much done on the car lately. That seems to be my normal comment. I think I finally have the rest of the parts I need to get quite a ways on the car now with the exception of the panels. I should be picking them up Friday from the powder coater so I can move forward this weekend between my sons soccer games.
Still need to research and answer for the above question about the clutch switch stop. I decided not to paint or coat the pedal box brackets although I feel like I should have. I am how ever going to replace the black head bolts with stainless since I feel they may be seen and get quiet a bit of moisture on them when driving in the rain.
I ordered the CNC double brake reservoirs from Ebay.
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I was going to wait till my buddy could come over and help get the rear diff in but I couldn't wait. I used one of my favorite apparatuses to install it, The trusty bar stool. Stood the unit up on its end and lowered the lift down to it. Was able to lift it in with no problem at all. Was almost able to get all the rear suspension put together but it was date night time so the rear shocks will have to wait. Everything went in pretty easy once I spread most of the mounting points open. They closed right up when I torqued down the bolts. I might be missing the breather fitting for the rear diff. I do not mind buying one if someone has link to one. It may be around but I have looked around in my parts bens bit don't see it.
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I put the rear studs in the freezer over night to see if it would help getting them in but didn't seem to help much. I used someone's idea of putting a couple machine washers with a couple drops of oil to help pull the studs through. Seemed to help more then the last time I tried doing it on another car with just the single washer and no oil. Sorry I can not recall who did that to give credit but Thank You who ever it was. I also ground a little off the stud help with bearing seal clearance. Not sure if it was needed once I got them in but it can't hurt.

[Texas Driver]

HOT DIGITY DOG.....The Wilwoods came in. It really starts to look like a proper roller once the brakes get mounted. I haven't had a chance to do the rear yet but I at least of the safety wire done so it will hopefully go smoothly. F5 finally got the rest of the shock parts to me a couple weeks ago so I can mount those and finish up the rear suspension. Tires should be in this week, Falkon Azenis 245-40-18 and 315-30-18. I copied the tire brand and size from War Eagle Scott. I think the tire profile and stance on his car is pretty sharp. I need to hurry and get this rolling so I can remove it from the lift and get a race car ready in a couple weeks. I need two lifts I think.
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I took the DS foot box front panel that came on the car that wont be used and made my own firewall support bracket. Not as pretty as the bought units but saved me a few $$ so that's Bueno in my book
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[Fixit]

QUESTION:
On page 123 of the build manual it says to bolt on the clutch quadrant stop and it shows a switch. I do not have the switch but I do have the brackets. Is this to be used with the Coyote build? It didn't show to bolt it on in the first part of the quadrant assembly but after...….I am a bit stumped.

The switch should come with in the big "Ford Performance" box with the (mostly unused) air intake stuff. Here's a link to how I did mine on #9365
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Pt. 2

(Scroll down for a few other replies... one builder didn't drill another pivot pin hole and claims the bracket works fine.)

The newer Gen 2 installs do not need the other (black) upper travel switch, only the (gray) bottom travel switch. I installed the black switch anyway, but it's not connected to anything.

[Texas Driver]

I have read the FFR instructions on installing and modifying the Coyote gas Pedal to retrofit some of the components of the FFR pedal. Does anyone have a better solution for this other than butchering it up?
Glad to finally be back on the build after taking a little time off to work on other projects.