Tampa33Build

[FF33rod]

The google link worked, sounds amazing. Makes me want to sit down and blip the throttle a few times!

Really like the steel braided hoses you used for heater and A/C, would you mind passing along the source?

thx, Steve

[Tampa33Build]

Steve,

I used "SSL0.75SV - Flexo SS XC - High Coverage Stainless Steel Expandable Sleeving - 3/4"" and "SSL0.38SV - Flexo SS XC - High Coverage Stainless Steel Expandable Sleeving - 3/8"" from WireCare.com. I sealed each end with Dual-Wall 3:1 Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing.

Neil

[Mrallsport32]

Neil, very nice build. I’m building chassis #1121 right now. I was wondering if you could tell me what water pump you have. Short or long? I see you spaced the engine back 1/2”. I want to place my alternator low in front of the head like you did. I’m also using a sbc 400 with 700R 4.
Thanks.
And again your attention to the details in your build look fantastic.

[Tampa33Build]

Mrallsport32,

Thank you,
It came installed on the BluePrint 400 SBC engine. It is a March performance P112 short, reverse rotation water pump. The complete package is a March performance 21100.

[DS9941]

Looks great

[colsen23153]

Added spacer to the motor mounts to move the Blueprint 400 SBC back 1/2" to clear the steering rack. Attachment 87262 Attachment 87264

I did not like the FFR provided round spacers for the 700R4 transmission mount, so I milled out a new mount from an aluminum bar to raise the transmission the same spacing with mounting bolts to the transmission mount and transmission bracket.
Attachment 87265 Attachment 87266

FFR shipped the wrong driveshaft with the kit, contacted Dan and had the correct driveshaft for the IRS in two days. Great service!

I am getting the 383 from BluePrint and I didn't ask at build school what size spacer I should use. Thanks for the info. Looks good.
Cliff

[Tampa33Build]

Completed drivers door power windows today utilized T Collins frame instructions/drawings. Modified the top slightly.

power window1.jpg

power window.jpg

Installed side vents

2YearPoint.jpg

SideVent.jpg

Split Engine side cover to allow removal leaving headlights attached. Fiber-glassed aluminum angles with riv-nuts into the cut line. Reinforced the headlight section with additional fiberglass. Installed brass bushings to mount the headlights, the headlights are bolted in with original hardware and two split washers on the back side. This allows removal with connector attached. Loosen the headlight bolt, slip washers off wires, remove headlight, bushings and wires with connector.

[Tampa33Build]

Have not posted for a while, researching and looking for reputable body shop and an operation. Decided to go with "The Rod Shop" and been waiting for spot to open. Will be picked up Tuesday.

Since I had some time I ditch the RF wiring mess and installed the Infinity Box with InReserve, great decision what a clean solution to the RF mess. Have to add that Infinity Box's support has been outstanding. Would have been much easier to have gone this route, removing RF wiring and adding the Infinity Box with the body installed did create some challenges and add additional time. I drew out the complete wiring schematic in OrCAD for the system and can provide it in PDF format to anyone interested. It covers the Holley Sniper, Vintage AC, Lights, and Ignition system.

Should note I have the Whitby master cylinder and modified the FFR brake cylinder brackets for the install

Infinity Box Trunk.jpg

Infinity Box Front_2.jpg

Infinity Box Front PowerCell.jpg

[cob427sc]

Not really understanding the whole electrical stuff (yea, I know its just like pipes with water - heard that alot), it is the weakest of my abilities. Just what does the Infinity system do and why is it superior to a standard wiring harness?

[FF33rod]

Not really understanding the whole electrical stuff (yea, I know its just like pipes with water - heard that alot), it is the weakest of my abilities. Just what does the Infinity system do and why is it superior to a standard wiring harness?

It's a totally different approach to wiring, more computer like with a communication system between "cells". Cells have different functionality from basic inputs (switches go to these) and output (these drive what the switches or relays normally would) to fancy stuff like alarms, remote locks, etc.... Take a look at their web site, the explanations are pretty straight forward at a high level. They have a decent fan club for sure and if I were to start a car from scratch with no wire harness it's probably the way I'd go. IMO though, unless you're adding to or wanting to modify a lot of the RF harness, it's easier to stick with it. But as I said, it's just my opinion

Steve

[Salty Chief 35]

I really like your build. Looks like everything is coming along. I’m just up the road in Brooksville. I hope to do a 33 or 35 truck some day (still couple years away). I do have the motor already though. Let me know if you need a extra hand.
Respectfully,
Jeremie

[Tampa33Build]

Jeremie,

Thank you, it is scheduled to go to the body shop Tuesday. Hopefully when it is done the virus will have subsided.

[Tampa33Build]

Almost ready for paint.
Have to finish the side window frame pillars first. Designing a frame around them as a one piece with rails. CAD being done today, then have inside and outside water jetted from 1/4" steel. The two pieces will be welded together for the channel felt. If all goes as planned it will be chromed and a great improvement, if not back to drawing board.

Front Driver Sanded.jpg Driver rear Sanded.jpg Front Pass Sanded.jpg Hood Driver Sanded.jpg Hood Pass sanded.jpg PAS Rear Sanded.jpg

[Tampa33Build]

Dynamat in trunk

Trunk DinoMat (1).jpg

Side window frames completed, hopefully get then test fitted over the next couple days then take them back out to be chrome plated

Window Frames.jpg

[Tampa33Build]

Door window frames almost completed. Frame is removable
Window9.jpg Window8.jpg Window3.jpg Window4.jpg

Made the inside panel removable for easy access to chrome felt strips
window6.jpg Window5.jpg window1.jpg

[RoadRacer]

Door window frames almost completed. Frame is removable
Window9.jpg Window8.jpg Window3.jpg Window4.jpg

Made the inside panel removable for easy access to chrome felt strips
window6.jpg Window5.jpg window1.jpg

Dang, that looks great. Nice work.

[1932]

I like that!

[Tampa33Build]

Dash almost completed

2020-10-22 Dash.jpg

Starting on center console

2020-10-22 Console.jpg

Door gaps even

2020-10-22 Door Gap.jpg

[FF33rod]

Dash looks fantastic!

Steve

[Tampa33Build]

Looking for suggestions on the best way to seal the gap between hinged top side of door and hardtop (shown with red box)?

Maybe halfmoon rubber like used on the trunk, not sure if it will hold up to the sideways motion of opening and closing the door.

2020-10-22 Door_hardtop gap2.jpg 2020-10-22 Door_hardtop gap1.jpg

[Tampa33Build]

Steve,
Thanks,
Still need to decide where to put the e-steer LED, light switch, ignition switch, and E-Stopp Button

Neil

[RoadRacer]

Steve,
Thanks,
Still need to decide where to put the e-steer LED, light switch, ignition switch, and E-Stopp Button

Neil

Looks amazing! I'm putting my light switch to left side of wheel, but your dash is way too pretty. Perhaps up and under the lip?

[FF33rod]

I don't think there is any reason to have the e-steer LED out in the open, it's more of a diagnostics thing. I've mounted it on the fuse panel (facing downward obviously) so I only need to glance up under the dash to see if it's on or has a fault or whatever...
E-Stopp button I'd look for a place on the console...

Steve

[TxMike64]

Dash almost completed
2020-10-22 Dash.jpg

That dash is AWESOME! Did you form it yourself or start with a pre-formed piece? I was thinking of trying something along these lines, starting with a fiberglass dash from Speedway: speedwaymotors.com/1933-34-Ford-Roadster-Dash

[Tampa33Build]

Mike,

Started with the speedway dash in your link and fabricated. Five screws hold it in. Extended the steering wheel column down about an inch, was undecided on making a half moon in dash or extending it. Also had to mold the AC vents in to angle them towards the driver/passenger. Liked the placement in the vertical vs. horizontal.
If all goes well it will flow into the Camaro center console.
20201023_Dash.jpg 20201023_Dash_Right.jpg

Neil

[JOP33]

Awesome job on the dash mods!

[sread]

some guys have all the talent - looks great!

[TxMike64]

Mike,

Started with the speedway dash in your link and fabricated. Five screws hold it in. Extended the steering wheel column down about an inch, was undecided on making a half moon in dash or extending it. Also had to mold the AC vents in to angle them towards the driver/passenger. Liked the placement in the vertical vs. horizontal.
If all goes well it will flow into the Camaro center console.
20201023_Dash.jpg 20201023_Dash_Right.jpg

Neil

Looks great! Was it the correct width?

[Tampa33Build]

TxMike64

Not really a good fit, just a starting point
Wish I could take all the credit. I'm very fortunate to have a high end hot rod shop close by that the owner allows me use of his shop and tools to work on the 33. He has several great 2nd/3rd generation body/paint specialists one that previously restored antiques for a museum. Great bunch of guys, enjoy working with them. He normally has 5-8 projects going and is rapidly building a reputation. Nothing leaves his shop without his approval. My 33 has been there since March and is getting close to the paint stage. Granted it sat several several months waiting on parts to be chromed.

Today I hope to cut the Corvette C6 seats in half, remove 2 inches and put them back together.

Neil

[Tampa33Build]

Corvette C6 power seats cut down the center, 2 inches removed, top lowered, and welded/epoxied back together.
Need to drop them off at an upholstery shop to finish once I decide on interior carpet and leather colors.
20201030_Seats_iOS.jpg

[Tampa33Build]

Getting closer to painting.
Found more cavities when blocking the fenders. This has been a common issue throughout the body preparation.
Fender cavities.png

Fender lip edges were different, one was wide, one ridge was narrow and wide. They now match and slick sand complete. Next is final blocking and K36 primer.
20201202_144325498_iOS.jpg 20201202_144322015_iOS.jpg

[Tampa33Build]

Final Assembly prior to painting. Discovered passengers side between door and hood is at a different angle than the drivers side. Hood was glassed and made symmetrical. The molding lined up with the doors when they were on last, so will have to take some glass off the left side and make it match the driver's side angle.
Need some additional work around the grill also. First time with grill has been on since it was polished.
20201211_204317149_iOS (2).jpg

20201211_204327607_iOS (2).jpg

20201211_204335362_iOS (2).jpg

20201211_204305158_iOS (3).jpg

ScreenHunter 184.png ScreenHunter 185.png

Last week noticed the round molding came to a round end on the front of the passenger side hood and the drivers side went all the way to the end. The passengers side now matches the drivers side.
ScreenHunter 186.png

[Tampa33Build]

Inside of doors and faux wood completed on door panels. Dash still needs a couple more coats of clear.
20210130_180507752_iOS.jpg 20210129_104515104_iOS.jpg 20210129_104427909_iOS.jpg 20210129_104527533_iOS.jpg

Fiber glassed metal inserts for hood left and right hood latch pins, attached pins and aligned to fit latches.
20210130_184120050_iOS.jpg

Removed the tunnel again for third time and fiber glassed indents for the electric seat rails. Thought there was enough room without modifying the tunnel. First time removing was a pain since I had used silicone sealant to seal it when bolting it down. Not so bad removing using Butyl rubber sealant vs. silicone to seal it.

[FF33rod]

Looking great. Looks like an interesting red, details?
Steve

[Tampa33Build]

Brandywine - the color really pops in the sun. This is color for the interior and top half of car, bottom half will be a brighter red. Bike fenders will be Brandywine.
Do not know what was harder choosing rims or color. I had many different test colors sprayed before making a decision. Fortunately where I have the hotrod they allow me to work on it with his techs or alone. The owner worked with me half a day teaching/practicing how to do the faux paint.
Now that the interior colors are done choosing leather color and carpet color is next. I purchased the FFR carpet kit but decided to go with a better quality carpet.

[Tampa33Build]

Received the hood props back from the machine shop, cut and threaded both ends. End on firewall is a quick disconnect. Wanted prop on each side to ensure setting at shows in Florida sun with hood up did not warp hood. Also did not want wind or to accidently hit prop and have hood come down.
20210206_200958966_iOS.jpg 20210206_201026520_iOS.jpg

Cut off ball studs from two 10MM ball mounting brackets, drilled and tapped to 10x32. Added a rivnut for each and attached to hood for storage. I did not like the flimsy clip that came with the kit.
20210206_201014213_iOS.jpg

[HotrodMike]

Dash almost completed

2020-10-22 Dash.jpg

Starting on center console

2020-10-22 Console.jpg

Door gaps even

2020-10-22 Door Gap.jpg

Your build looks fantastic, love the powder coated frame. Just one question if I may, where did you get your console? Thanks in advance for your time and consideration regarding this request.

[Tampa33Build]

HotRodMike,

It is a 1968 Camaro center console for a 4 speed manual transmission. It has been modified with a double DIN fiber glassed in.

https://www.oerparts.com/product/all...s/r316805.html

[Tampa33Build]

Inside of hood and trunk painted to match top half of 33s paint color
20210217_132808872_iOS (2).jpg 20210217_132804750_iOS (2).jpg

All remaining parts painted on edges, body taped up and ready to edge on Monday. Then assemble everything and paint the two colors as one piece.
20210220_143622070_iOS.jpg 20210220_143534929_iOS.jpg

20210220_143634361_iOS.jpg 20210220_143520944_iOS.jpg

[progmgr1]

Love the color! Is that HOK's Candy Brandywine?
Keith HR #894