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MkIV Would Of's and Should Of's
Well... the deposit has been placed and the kit is on order. I've already ordered numerous parts for upgrades or modifications I'd like (many thanks to all of the 'pioneers' on the forum). With such a wealth of information at my finger tips, I have to ask - 'What are the would of's and should of's that come to mind?' Looking for a brief list to bookmark and return to - and hopefully capture before making the same mistakes!!
One I really liked was a Wareaglescott's when he went back over some of the issues he experienced a few months after completing his build. I am sure there an numerous others, but his comes to mind easily.
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PLATNUM Supporting Member
I will starting my 5th MK4 build next month. P/S and P/B are 2 items that IMO make the car much easier and fun to drive. Quiet pipes also make cruising easier on the ears as well, IMO. Just my 2 cents worth.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
1. The Drop Trunk Sheet Metal Kit!
2. Ford Cobra Front Brakes & I May Still Add Them!
3. I wish I wouldn't have installed the stereo even though it looks nice in the car.
4. I may ditch my home-made passenger side heater since it just doesn't get that cold down here near New Orleans.
.....Note:.. I built it for Mrs. Go-Dad so it will likely stay.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=982
https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs
Last edited by GoDadGo; 02-15-2019 at 07:38 AM.
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Senior Member
A liberal use of nutserts instead of rivets for any aluminum panels that may be removed for maintenance. Making the transmission tunnel completely removable. Also the dash removable/dropped is a must IMO. I have Cobra (Mustang) brakes and will upgrade to Hawk pads. I rerouted my defroster plumbing to run two heater vents to the foot wells. This and heated seats work well for colder days in the Pacific NW. I would now entertain power brakes and power/electric assisted steering. Quieter pipes will preserve what little hearing I have...
After 5 upper back/neck surgeries, I definitely would go with the new Mustang IRS.
Good luck and enjoy the building journey. All the Forum friends are here for you.
Chris
Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.
MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.
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I don't really have any "Should haves", but a lot of "I'm Glad I did!"
Glad I did:
Hidden Cruise
Hidden Cup holders
Hidden USBs
Seat Coolers
Kirkey Vintage Seat (on my side)
Wrapped the sidepipes
Drop trunk mod
Rectangle Tail lights
15" Wheels
Power Steering
Power Brakes
Hidden Trunk Battery
Remote Charge Terminals in Trunk with Disconnect Switch
Removable Trans Cover
Enlarged my DS footbox on both sides and dropped the floor 3/4"
Enlarged PS Footbox
Competition Dash layout
Clock on Dash
Added Heater
Firewall Forward 2 inches
Windshield post Mirrors
Turn Signal Module
DS Footbox Access panel (Mk3.1 didn't have these from FFR)
Removable Steering Wheel
Floor High Beam Dimmer Switch
Wiring Diagrams
Main Power Disconnect Switch
Fuse block with lights to indicate which fuse blew
EFI
Stock 302 with E303
Alum radiator with shroud
Hood Hinge Set
Sound deadener
Truck bed liner on underside of body
Snapless tonneau cover - quick and easy
2" strap - cam lock - 5 point harness
Edwardb's grab handle on dash for passenger
Pictures - Pictures - Pictures!
(*whew!* That's a lot)
ALL of these have come into play or have been an important part of the positive experience! And I have really been happy that I did each one.
The only thing that I think I didn't really need to do, and don't really find practical for me, is the Cabin Cubby. Sort of wish I didn't do that.
Things I still have to add:
Trunk lid prop
Dual pusher fans (cosmetic)
Sun visors
Over riders
If you take the time to make the car how YOU want it, you'll be very happy with your build!
Last edited by DadofThree; 02-15-2019 at 11:03 AM.
Dave
Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
Greenhorn and doing the best I can
My photos are at:
My Flickr acct
Videos are at:
YouTube Videos
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David aka Ducky2009
RT turn signals, seat heaters (and depending on where you live, FFR heater too). PS & PB. Hi-back Kirkey seats. Drop trunk. I did add a radio and enjoy it. Glove box. Trunk lid support. Radiator fan shroud. One pc headers (vs. J pipes). I don’t have it but removable steering wheel would have been nice. Not sure it and RT turn signals work together. Competition dash. Rear view mirror mounted on top of windshield (vs onto dash). Roll bars on both sides.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
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Senior Member
I should have started with an oil pan that would support the demands of autocross. I just didn't know that one could destroy an engine by oil starvation in just a couple of runs. Fortunately, I found out from a buddy before I did any damage to my car. So...if you plan to learn how to drive your car at a track event - any track event - get the appropriate pan!
John
P.S. I've got Gordon Levy's race pan on order, but I'll be working under the car rather than out in the open!
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
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Senior Member
Here is what I retrofitted.
Trunk floor drop mod. I retrofitted it as soon as I discovered that a helmet won't fit.
Quieter pipes. I have a 500hp 347 with a fairly nasty cam. That equates to loud. I changed to Flowmaster slimlines, which are unfortunately no longer made.
Head rests added to the seats. Requested by my wife for longer trips. Not a fan of roll bar head rests myself. I did the same as John, here - https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...at-thread.html
Premium soft top. keeps me out of the Florida sun, which gets to be no fun on a long hot day. It has also kept me out of the rain more times than I can count.
Lumbar support to the seats. I did this when I installed the headreasts. I used memory foam from a pillow.
What I wouldn't do without:
Power steering
Wilwood brakes.
Heater - yes, even in Florida.
Heated seats - yep.
Wipers. I don't get why someone would not put these on a street car. See soft top comment above
Russ Thompson turn signal and gas pedal
Glove box. I made my own.
Boig coolant hard hoses.
Removable (riv-nuts) on elephant ears and nose aluminum. I personally don't get the need for a removable transmission tunnel. There is nothing up there to get to besides the shifter, and you can get to that under the shift boot.
Cup holders. I did mine in the typical tunnel location.
Under dash panel. I like a simple, clean dash. My under dash panel has all kinds of extra switches and ports. Garage door openers, radar detector controls, gauge cal, USB ports, Power port, O2 sensor power, emergency flashers, and seat heater controls. All easy to reach and out of site.
Sun visors and wind wings. They make a huge difference in the wind turbulence.
As mentioned - Gordon Levy road race pan. I autocross.
What would I not do next time.
Polish the engine bay panels. HUGE amount of labor and you can hardly see them.
I used AL fuel line from the pump to the carb. I cracked a flare one time at the pump and then 10,000 miles later, got a pinhole up near the carb. I will NEVER use AL fuel line again.
I read to not cut the defroster vent holes until after I painted so they would line up better with the stripes. So I didn't. 20K miles later I still haven't taken a saw to the paint.
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Chris, We easily can fix your rear suspension for a nice compliant ride with the 3-link Handling Pack:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...handling-pack/
"Ban the Bones"
www.breezeautomotive.com 2005 FFR Mk3 Roadster, 302/340hp, MassFlo EFI, Breeze Pulleys, T5, Aluminum Flywheel, 3-link rear with Torsen Diff and 3.27:1 gears, Power Steering, Breeze Front Sway Bar, SN-95 Spindles with outboard SAI Mod, Breeze Battery Mount, QA1 Externally Adjustable Shocks, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Vintage Race seats, GM Arctic White, Sky Blue Scoop, Hidden Hinges, Billet Aluminum Side-view Mirrors, 2,183lbs wet. 1967 Mustang Fastback, Dark Moss Green, black interior, '67 14" styled steel wheels, 2000 Explorer 302 w 5.0 Cam, Quickfuel 450 CFM, 289 Hi-Po Dual exhaust, C4, lowering springs w Shelby drop.
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Senior Member
Bumper grommets front and rear from finish line accessories
mechanical throttle linkage from forte
Lower radiator mount, radiator fan shroud, radiator cowl cover from breeze
Overriders
Good luck
Rick
Last edited by Itchief; 02-15-2019 at 09:35 PM.
#8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater
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Wallace, thanks for the response. I have seen numerous supporters of P/S - and I plan on installing as well. Haven't seen too much on P/B. Are there any kits on the market for the brakes? Everything I've seen uses a previously used booster.
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GoDadGo, why do you recommend the drop trunk kit? Looking at the 'juice worth the squeeze' aspect - do you really use the extra space in the trunk that often? I started looking at it, but didn't think I'd use it since the car is meant to be 'cruiser'.
I currently have the Wilwood brake upgrade, so think I am good there. Ford Cobra vs. Wilwood - thoughts?
As for the stereo, why not? I've considered it, but haven't made a final determination.
I think the seat heaters are a must in Northern Virginia - especially to keep my passengers (the lovely Mrs.) happy!
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Gundermann, what size nutserts did/would you use? Same size as the rivets (1/8'' I think)?
I've been torn on the heater - given it is open top I didn't see too much use. However, it would be nice on the feet. The alternative I was going to invest in is WWII era bomber jackets. Figure it would be a neat touch.
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Dof3, Tybee is really beautiful isn't it? Lived in Savannah about a decade ago... now back to business - I plan to pursue a few of the same options you've listed (hidden USB, power steering, windshield post mirrors, truck liner underbody, and overriders). One thing definitely coming off your list is the floor switch dimmer. I was literally researching the best solution for switching high beams yesterday and totally forgot about a floor switch option. I loved 'em in older vehicles, especially the old Broncos. Which brings up quite possibly the most important question - why don't we use those anymore??
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Ducky, why the removable steering wheel? Also, why roll bars on both sides? I get the safety for the passenger, but figured with such a low center of gravity it would be almost impossible to roll it.
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Fogg, I'm not too far away from you - we currently live in Lorton. Might have to link up when you have time. As for engine options, I'm putting the Coyote in and have followed suit with the Moroso Oil Pan. Not sure if that is the appropriate one/type, but seems to work for the group by and large. Thanks for the input - definitely a money saver!
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Avalanche, I am starting to notice a trend - trunk floor drop mod. I didn't realize the trunk was so small (being unable to fit a helmet).
Does anyone know of any slimline alternatives for the exhaust?
Did you use the FFR heater or did you use something else?
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Mark Reynolds
Thanks Mark, I thought I knew all of your products...missed that one.
Chris
Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.
MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
flip1216
Fogg, I'm not too far away from you - we currently live in Lorton. Might have to link up when you have time. As for engine options, I'm putting the Coyote in and have followed suit with the Moroso Oil Pan. Not sure if that is the appropriate one/type, but seems to work for the group by and large. Thanks for the input - definitely a money saver!
I drove through Lorton yesterday (got in 50+ miles)! I'm in Fairfax Station, so PM whenever you'd like to meet.
Regarding riv-nuts, I standardized on #10-32 throughout my car. The fuel & brake lines are secured with #10-32; the splash guards, the pedal box access panel, and the under dash panel too. I even swapped the #10-24 screws at the filler cap with #10-32. There's nothing magic about the size; just use fine thread when you tap into the thicker frame pieces (4" tube & 2" square).
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
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Senior Member
Classic instruments. Have a custom set now to replace the base FFR instruments but have not installed them yet. Happy with everything else.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 02-16-2019 at 12:04 PM.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Itchief
Bumper grommets front and rear from finish line accessories
Rick
Yes yes yes on the fronts. Especially if you are doing nudge bars. Rears optional from my experience.
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On a roll
Originally Posted by
flip1216
GoDadGo, why do you recommend the drop trunk kit? Looking at the 'juice worth the squeeze' aspect - do you really use the extra space in the trunk that often? I started looking at it, but didn't think I'd use it since the car is meant to be 'cruiser'.
I currently have the Wilwood brake upgrade, so think I am good there. Ford Cobra vs. Wilwood - thoughts?
As for the stereo, why not? I've considered it, but haven't made a final determination.
I think the seat heaters are a must in Northern Virginia - especially to keep my passengers (the lovely Mrs.) happy!
I'll only comment on the stereo. I, too, was a proponent of installing a stereo system of some sort. I got A LOT of feedback on that. My suggestion: don't spend money on one. Your side pipes are your stereo. (you probably wouldn't hear the music anyway) Just my 2 cents.
Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount
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Senior Member
I get that some people don't like the looks of a stereo in one of these cars, but I love having my tunes. When you're just out cruising by yourself and taking it easy, you can definitely hear the music. That's what the volume is for. you can still hear the rumble of the pipes and sometimes the combo of the music and the engine combine for the perfect time. Also I've used my music when I'm parked or with some friends. I guess it depends on how much you like music and do you want it along for the ride. For me I'll be incorporating it in somehow. Either a hidden stereo or traditional on the new build.
Other things,
Dropped trunk - on long cruises you need stuff in case of breakdowns, or just picking up a load of supplies at Sam's Club. (Yes a guy took a pick of my grocery getter to prove the usefulness of the car.)
Hidden cup holders
A snapless tonneau covers - I got one for my old cobra and it was used daily when I drove to work. Real quick install and kept out prying eyes and other debris
Good brakes - Depends on how fast you want to go. Being able to stop all that horsepower is more important the faster you want to go
FFR #4402 MKII Supercharged 308 445 RWHP Sterling Grey W/ Black Sapphire Stripes, Purchase 8/22/2008 Sold 12/04/2018
FFR #8249 MK IV "Milano" Kit purchased 10/5/2018 - In-Process with 3.27 IRS, Multiport, Fuel Injected Supercharged 347 Big bore with Coil On Plug running Holley HP engine management, 576 RWHP, 510 Torque
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29980 Milano thread
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David aka Ducky2009
Originally Posted by
flip1216
Ducky, why the removable steering wheel? Also, why roll bars on both sides? I get the safety for the passenger, but figured with such a low center of gravity it would be almost impossible to roll it.
Removable steering wheel makes it easier to get in and out. You can't pull on the windshield to get out (you'll break it). Sit on the floor with you legs straight out, back against a wall. Have your wife hold a pie pan (pretend it's the steering wheel) and try to stand up without anything to grab on to (don't run into the steering wheel). AND, you can NOT swing your legs out the door to stand.... you'll burn them on the side pipes. You'll learn how to get in and out.
Rollbars... safety.
Some other comments
Nutrivets - I used 10-24, made of Steel. Aluminum nutrivets are not the best, IMO. They can bind-up easily if you remove the bolt to many times.
Power Brakes - FFR sells Wilewood. Have never heard anything bad about them. For less cost, you can also use Ford calipers and Vacuum assist power brakes from Whitby. Whitby has the vacuum booster, master cylinder, remote reservoirs, etc. Depending on the footbox you use, $400-$500. With the Wilwood footbox, you'll need the $100 replacement pedal. The Mustang footbox would need modified too, if that's what you have.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
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Senior Member
Here's my .02 worth
Russ Thompsons turn signal setup - elegantly simple solution to add "traditional" turn signals
Russ Thomson's dropped trunk - easy way to gain space from wasted air
Rivnuts/Nutserts - absolutely. Not terribly expensive for a kit, and will make life much easier. (6,8,10-32 & 1/4-20)
Breeze radiator shroud - no brainer. Improves cooling and looks much nicer than the plumbing strap
John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs
1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021