Well...my kit is supposed to be shipped in 2 weeks so I thought I'd go ahead and open my build thread. I've already received the rear end from Moser and the aluminum differential cover. First task will be to replace the stock chrome cover. I agree with everyone else, the aluminum cover looks so much better.
My complete kit includes:
PC chassis
302 coated headers
Power steering
3-link suspension and Moser rear end
Stainless steel bumper kit
Stainless steel side pipes
Driver and passenger side roll bars with grommets
Performance brakes
Assembled side louvers
17" Halibrand style wheels
Low back vintage racing seats
Blueprint 306 EFI / TKO-600
CNC Triple reservoir
Hydraulic clutch (still deciding which implementation)
Battery cut off
Breeze front battery box kit
Breeze cockpit storage cubby
Cast aluminum differential cover
Derale fluid cooler for power steering
Metco drive loop
Breeze cockpit cubby
Breeze fan shroud and radiator mounting kits
I'm sure that there will be a few more items added over time but these are the ones that percolated to the top after lurking for several months on the forum and gleaming tidbits from the veteran builders.
I'm looking forward to getting started in a few weeks and sharing the experience. Thanks in advance for all of the pointers, encouragement, and lessons learned that I know will be coming my way.
And so it begins!
Last edited by jeffhelms56; 03-18-2019 at 09:45 AM.
CVOBill
MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater
I have no experience with Sharkhide but have read several build threads of folks who have used it. I'd appreciate the group's thoughts on where to use it and any tips, tricks, or traps on how to apply it. My first potential application is the cast aluminum differential cover.
Thanks
Last edited by jeffhelms56; 02-25-2019 at 02:04 PM.
You asked about shark hide... I used it on ALL bare aluminum. ALL. Much of my aluminum I sanded with 320 grit to get a nice even, brushed look and some is just bare.... either way, all of my bare aluminum has it on it.... and I did two coats. It pretty much dries in a couple minutes so it was not too big of deal to do the two. Careful with the fumes, it is pretty wicked stuff.
With SharkHide: IMG_3419.jpg
As for the differential housing, I actually use a clear enamel spray paint... and I think I had about 5 thin/building coats on it. IMG_0251.jpg
There is so much about what you are going to do that is enjoyable. There are great people on the forum, and they are very encouraging. You'll also enjoy making the milestones--from getting the suspension done and the chassis on wheels and on the ground to the brake lines and fuel lines. Each phase completed is reason to smile.
There is so much about what you are going to do that is enjoyable. There are great people on the forum, and they are very encouraging. You'll also enjoy making the milestones--from getting the suspension done and the chassis on wheels and on the ground to the brake lines and fuel lines. Each phase completed is reason to smile.
Thanks John. I’m eager to dig in and start the build in earnest. When they were growing up, I always encouraged my girls to “eat the elephant, one bite at a time” when faced with a daunting task or situation. I look at my build in the same light. Getting through the build milestones will be a major source of satisfaction I’m sure.
You asked about shark hide... I used it on ALL bare aluminum. ALL. Much of my aluminum I sanded with 320 grit to get a nice even, brushed look and some is just bare.... either way, all of my bare aluminum has it on it.... and I did two coats. It pretty much dries in a couple minutes so it was not too big of deal to do the two. Careful with the fumes, it is pretty wicked stuff.
With SharkHide: IMG_3419.jpg
As for the differential housing, I actually use a clear enamel spray paint... and I think I had about 5 thin/building coats on it. IMG_0251.jpg
Thanks for the great info. I’ll probably PC the panels and use the Sharkhide on the smaller parts. I think Papa mentioned using it on suspension components. I assume that you would want to keep this stuff off of threads.
I used the SharkHide on my bare alum panels. I wish I had used it in more places. Some of the hardware that has flash coating like zinc or others will oxidize quickly with time. I think Shark Hide will maintain the new look. I think I put it on my alum bell housing, maybe the trans case, some of the alum on the engine, etc. I cannot remember it all. Do a search on the axle cover. It seems I read or saw where there was interference with some combinations. When you get started, let me know. I have some left over stuff you might be able to use.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
Do a search on the axle cover. It seems I read or saw where there was interference with some combinations. When you get started, let me know. I have some left over stuff you might be able to use.
Thanks Joe...I'll do some searching on the cover installation. Also, I'm definitely interested in what you have for extra parts. Please PM me when you get a chance and let me know what you have.
Jeff
You asked about shark hide... I used it on ALL bare aluminum. ALL. Much of my aluminum I sanded with 320 grit to get a nice even, brushed look and some is just bare.... either way, all of my bare aluminum has it on it.... and I did two coats. It pretty much dries in a couple minutes so it was not too big of deal to do the two. Careful with the fumes, it is pretty wicked stuff.
With SharkHide: IMG_3419.jpg
As for the differential housing, I actually use a clear enamel spray paint... and I think I had about 5 thin/building coats on it. IMG_0251.jpg
Glad to have you on board! Welcome!
I'll echo BadAsp's good comments on the shark hide. It works really well and dries very quickly - but, yeah, man o man, the fumes are something serious. I ended up buying a little gas mask type thing to wear when i use it.
Congratulations on the delivery! Pretty exciting day, right?
Good luck as you get started on the build with Earnest (Oh, you said in earnest, sorry)! I apologize, it was just sitting there, so I had to...
i look forward to following along with your build. And, feel free to post any questions or problems here. This is a most amazing place, filled with great selfless people who are willing to share their experiences and expertise with anyone who asks; and sometimes spend their money. I can\t tell you how many times I have been helped by the people here! It's truly extraordinary.
MK4 #11012 picked up 04/16/24
351W, 3 link, single roll bar
MK4 #10616 picked up 4/10/23
302w, 4 link, 17's, dual roll bar SOLD
MK4 #9759 picked up on 4/3/19
351C, 3 link, 17's, dual roll bars SOLD
Finished up the inventory this week and ready to start marking / removing panels. The forum has been a big help during the preparation. Little things like getting the front coil over installed so that the lettering on the springs is correctly oriented! I also took a short road trip to visit Railroad (Joe) last week and look over his build. Lots of good info during that visit too.
Last edited by jeffhelms56; 03-14-2019 at 10:06 AM.
Well...first full weekend of work on the car. After getting through the requisite honey-do list I was able to finish the inventory, get the panels marked and removed, and drill/cleco the F panels. Looking forward to starting the front suspension in the next day or so.
A question for the group...can the F panels be installed after the front suspension is in place? I need to get the panels PC'd and wanted to go ahead and start the suspension in the meantime.
Yes, Go ahead and install them using clecos and you can take them on and off. I wont use real rivets on mine until final assembly after paint. But you might want to go ahead and drill them now so the control arm is not in the way of your drill.
Yes, Go ahead and install them using clecos and you can take them on and off. I wont use real rivets on mine until final assembly after paint. But you might want to go ahead and drill them now so the control arm is not in the way of your drill.
Received my Derale Fluid Cooler for the power steering system today. I'm planning on street-use only but I took the advice of others and will install the fluid cooler during the build. I figured that $30 was pretty cheap insurance. Looking for suggestions on where to mount.
A question for the group...can the F panels be installed after the front suspension is in place? I need to get the panels PC'd and wanted to go ahead and start the suspension in the meantime.
Yes with one caveat. Be careful with your rivet placement. Don't locate rivets where they aren't accessible because of the suspension components. Otherwise you'll be taking suspension pieces back off or leaving rivet holes open.
Originally Posted by jeffhelms56
Received my Derale Fluid Cooler for the power steering system today. I'm planning on street-use only but I took the advice of others and will install the fluid cooler during the build. I figured that $30 was pretty cheap insurance. Looking for suggestions on where to mount.
Not super critical IMO. Ideally where it's in the open and with some airflow. But just its existence, for a street driver, should give you the added margin. Mount it where it makes sense for the routing of the PS return line. I put mine on the edge of the radiator cooling shroud. Worked well there and hoses routed neatly. You are planning a cooling shroud, right? Another good add.
Last edited by edwardb; 03-18-2019 at 08:25 AM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Yes with one caveat. Be careful with your rivet placement. Don't locate rivets where they aren't accessible because of the suspension components. Otherwise you'll be taking suspension pieces back off or leaving rivet holes open.
Not super critical IMO. Ideally where it's in the open and with some airflow. But just its existence, for a street driver, should give you the added margin. Mount it where it makes sense for the routing of the PS return line. I put mine on the edge of the radiator cooling shroud. Worked well there and hoses routed neatly. You are planning a cooling shroud, right? Another good add.
Paul...thanks for the input and yes, I have the Breeze fan shroud. Would you please PM me a pic of your install?
Started installation of the front suspension yesterday afternoon. I found two of the issues that are talked about on forum right off the bat. The spacing on the LHS/forward LCA attachment was off (under) by a little over 1/8". I thought about spreading it but felt like that was to much to account for so I installed the LCA without a spacer. Even then, it was a very tight fit and required a great deal of coaxing to get it mounted and the hole lined up. All of the other attachments were suitable and able to accommodate spacers. The manual said to use spacers only on the rear mounts but the gap was the same as the forward mount on the RHS so I used a spacer. I don't think this is an issue but I'd appreciate feedback.
Second issue was with ball joints on UCA. Assembled one of the arms and, as anticipated, I could not get the ball joint screwed all the way into the UCA. I used the blue Locktite so hopefully I'll be able to get the ball joint out this evening and look at the other options discussed on the forum. I don't even want to try to mount the other ball joint for fear that both will be stuck in the UCA.
Visiting the powder coat shop today to discuss panel coating.
Last edited by jeffhelms56; 03-19-2019 at 08:49 AM.
I've mentioned this on both forums repeatedly---if you take the ball joint to a wire wheel and remove the heavy coating from the threads they will ordinarily screw in with little to no resistance.
RE: Frame tabs and spacers. The tabs are supposed to capture the steel inner sleeve and not the poly bushing. If the tabs are closed in on the polyurethane rather than the sleeve you need to spread them and use the spacer.
Thanks Jeff. I have seen discussions about the ball joints and the Howe Racing substitutes. Somehow I missed the wire wheel remedy. I'll give that a try.
Regarding the tabs/spacers. Would you please clarify? How can you tell if the tabs have captured the sleeves and are not resting on the bushing only? It appeared that the sleeve and bushing are flush.
Does anyone have a recommendation for touch-up paint that closely matches the chassis satin black powder coat? I have some areas that aren't covered fully by the powder coat and I want to address them before I get too far along. I'm sure I'll have some "hanger rash" to deal with also.
Thanks
Last edited by jeffhelms56; 03-21-2019 at 10:24 AM.
I've mentioned this on both forums repeatedly---if you take the ball joint to a wire wheel and remove the heavy coating from the threads they will ordinarily screw in with little to no resistance.
Jeff
Jeff...thanks again for the ball joint tip. Worked like a champ! Still not sure how I missed that with 6 months of lurking on the forum before I got my kit.
Decided to skip ahead a little bit and get the firewall and pedal boxes fitted and drilled before sending off for powder coat. Will pick back up on suspension build-up while parts are being coated.
If you haven't already, check out Edwardb's (Mr. Paul's) earlier MK-4 build thread.
His work is excellent and his his build thread supplements the heck out of the manual.
If you haven't already, check out Edwardb's (Mr. Paul's) earlier MK-4 build thread.
His work is excellent and his his build thread supplements the heck out of the manual.
I've printed his build thread for reference. Papa's thread has been a big help too...especially the pics.
Still just getting in a couple of hours of build time in the evening after work but retiring a week from today and looking forward to having more time to devote to the project. I'm loving it!
Does anyone know whether or not the Breeze seat tracks can be used with the low-back racing seats?
Give Mark Reynolds a call with your seat frame dimensions and he will easily be able to tell you. The Breeze mounts require you to drill through the seat frame to attach the seat to the upper mount. That's all you need to be concerned with. The rest is independent of the seat.
Didn't get a whole lot done this weekend. We had great weather in North Alabama and so the mower, hedge trimmer, and pole saw took priority over the drill, clecos, and rivet gun. I was able though to get the passenger and driver foot boxes fitted and drilled so that I could get the engine bay panels to powder coating this week. I'll work on front and rear suspension this week and hopefully be ready to start running brake lines this weekend. Will have to wait on complete brake install however as the rear brakes are on back order.
Had a helper for a while this weekend. Our property is a popular destination for these little guys. He was the first one I've seen this year and it was quite comfortable hanging out on the body while I worked.
Looking ahead, I want to start planning for my CNC Triple Reservoir install and incorporation of the hydraulic clutch. It seems to me that the hole in the driver's pedal box front is not large enough to accommodate both brake lines and the hydraulic clutch line. I'll be doing more research this week on that.
Passenger foot box. Looks like a porcupine with all of the clecos but I have found that it helps me visualize the whole install and whether or not I have missed drilling any holes.
Driver foot box.
Looking forward to getting started on suspension.
Last edited by jeffhelms56; 03-25-2019 at 08:39 AM.