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Looks like you are about ready to go-kart!
MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car
I don't want to discourage you, but I can't see how those seats can work unless you're 5' 6" or shorter. Looks like the base of the seat is about 6" thick, which means you lose about 6" of headroom over the FFR seats. Also, I'm guessing your legs are going to be wedged up against the dash with the front of the seat so high and thick. The dash extends well below the chassis tube and steering column.
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts
72442conv,
I got the switches from Automotive Buttons Pty Ltd in Australia, they arrive in about 5 days. Here is a like to their site: www.billetautomotivebuttons.com
Thanks Shane, I am not quite that short but not tall either. Not sure How think they are but will set them back into the car and check. I still have the FFR seats and as you say may have to end up using them or maybe mounting the other seats directly on the floor (removing the slider and mount, but again thanks for the heads up something I need to check out for sure.
Beeman, I would love to take it our for a drive but the weather here...… well take a look, don't think I can even get it up the hill out of the shop !! Instead I get to drive something different to move the snow around, and in fact have to do it again tomorrow.
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Tested the remaining wiring, lights, turn signals, emergency flashers and all went well all working as planned. Still need to add clutch neutral safety switch bit have wires pulled and working to make the car start. Need the body go back on the frame and continue working on the interior.
https://youtu.be/2tCcvWpm_Co
Here is the video of the lights working, I have one led hooked to front low beams, one led hooked to high beams, the two led that are amber are the front turn signals, two of the back lights are hooked up one for each side so you can see all lighting, turn and 4 way flasher working.
Cleaning up the wiring, have most of it tied in place now and believe it or not everything is still working, it is good to have a little luck from time to time !! Pictures of engine bay and nose with wiring heat insulated and tied in place.
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Very clean, very nice!
What is the RPM limit switch relay for?
MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car
Beeman,
The RPM Window Switch (the technical name) is used to monitor and shut down the air conditioner compressor when the engine RPM's exceed a set limit to keep from over speeding the compressor under hard acceleration. I purchased mine form JEGS, got the information from Shane (VRaptor) on the switch. The relay shuts down the compressor when RPM limit is exceeded by tripping the relay. Here is a picture of the RPM Window Switch installed in cockpit. You can set the number of cylinders and the RPM you want the switch to trip the relay. The switch is the little black box just right of the steering wheel in the aluminum mount to the 1 1/2" frame tube.
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Those are the only relays in the car, the 4 shown in the picture 1 for the A/C unit, 1 for the RPM Window Switch (turns it off at a set high rpm number and back on below low limit number) and the 2 for the electric fans. I have an aftermarket fan shroud with 2 3000 cfm Spal fans one low and one high speed. They are controlled by a Dakota Digital Fan Controller (not the ECU as my stand alone ECU only had one speed running both fans all the time), that I can set the temperature for each fan to come on and turn off again.
Very cool James. I like seeing how other are attacking simple things like cutting the AC at certain RPM to not over load the compressor, but also not rob you of power when you go for maximum acceleration under higher engine loads.
For my setup, I'll be controlling this through my AEM EMS computer. It has tons of functionality including many safe modes that I can program in like low oil pressure = limp mode.
Well since I have a size 8 1/2 foot (like small size-short and wide) I decided to raise the foot well so it was not as far from the floor to the peddles. The reason for raising the floor was to get peddles closer it really changed the look in the cab on both the driver and passengers side and think it is a lot cleaner. Got part of the body seam sealed and am not getting ready to put body on and set seat in interior. Below are some picture of each side with floor raised.
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Work taking up more time now so progress is slowing but still plugging along when I can...……
Thought I would share with everyone, did not get to work on car today, had to dig us out from underneath a massive snow fall. That took all afternoon when temperatures warmed up to a whole 6 degrees. Tonight drop to -17 degrees with the high tomorrow of only 2 degrees. I figure I have about 2 to 3 months before I can even think about taken it out as go kart, but will continue on body and interior...….
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And it is still snowing over 12" now and climbing !!
Just 35 miles east we only got 4"
I’m glad I don’t have to deal with that white fluffy crap falling from the sky in S FL
Got the drivers seat installed using the seats designed for a fox body mustang. The racing seats are smaller than the standard racing seat and I was almost certain they would fit without or with very little modification. They are sitting on adjustable seat tracks, as I am short compared to some others that are pushing 6’, at 5’ 8” I can slide the seat back as far as it can go before it hits the tunnel and just barely reach the pedals (short inseam only 27”- 28”) and need to slide the seat forward to be able to push clutch to the stop.
In the pictures below the seat is all the way back against the tunnel and you can see the clearances with the center water fall and how it sits in the cockpit. It is almost centered with the steering wheel and being able to slide the seat back helps getting in and out of the car.
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This is how the seat is mounted to the floor just off the floor in the back and attached to the lip of the metal pan in the front.
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Here is the clearance on the top of the seat, I can raise it straight up with very little clearance but it does not touch the frame bar. I may modify the top section of the seat but think it will work as is with no modifications.
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I reposted the picture from above showing the seats in the car in relationship to the steering wheel and tunnel. Hopefully they are not sideways this time.
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Hopefully the passengers side will not be issue as don't have to match up with everything on drivers side. The seats will be recovered to match my interior so they are not staying the cloth red and black they are now.
Well finally got back out in the shop and finished the seat belt harness mounts installed. I have a 4 point harness going in on both sides and these are the brackets for the lap portion, will have to install two more at a later date for the shoulder harness after more of the interior is installed and the seats along with the harness bar are installed for proper placement.
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Also fitted the ARP wing onto the weld in steel wing mount designed by Shane at VRaptor Speedworks. I would like to thank Shane again for the great design work he puts in on the aftermarket parts for the GTM. Wanted to make sure I did not need to change anything before the body goes on, and as designed and fabricated by Shane it when on without any issues and look really on the complete frame support system he designed.
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I also deign and have installed temporary for now kick panels for both the drivers and passengers side foot well to enclose the tube frame and I will be relocating some of the electronics down to the kick panel on the foot wells for access after the body is installed o the car. The currently are sitting on to of the mounts for Shane for eh Infinity Box CAN-bus system on both the drivers side and passengers side. They were mount there temporary to finish wiring, finish checkout of electrical system and programing of the Dakota Digital modules. They will be moved to the kick panels so they can be accessed later if needed.
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Dang....you're making some good progress!! Looks great!
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts
Thought I would post another update not that I have the kick panels finished, dead pedal modified and installed and the electronics I had on top of the Infinity Box system on the mounts supplied by Shane. Was getting ready to put the body on and in looking at the position of the electronics I discovered (should have seen it sooner) that I would not be able to get to or service the electronics if I needed to due to placement the body would cover them up behind the dash and it would almost impossible if not totally impossible to get to the modules if I needed to remove one of the Dakota Digital modules or the controller for the escort 9500ci. I can control the Dakota Digital from my phone or pad through blue tooth but as we all know anything can go wrong and may need to get to the modules. So to that end I relocated the modules down to the kick panels I made to enclose the foot wells and cover the exposed tubing making a smooth wall.
This is the drivers and passengers side location of the modules prior to relocation sitting on the mounts for eh Infinity Box system.
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This what the back side of the Infinity Box mounts look like now with modules relocated
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This is the foot wells finished with the modules relocated and the modified dead pedal installed. The trim on the outer tube of the footwells installed this will be covered allowing a good clean edge at the transitions piece to the kick panels. I will cover these with the same material I am using on the main tunnel and try to make a additional matching piece to cover the electronics on each kick panel that hopefully will look good and be functional at hiding the modules mounted on the panels.
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Think I will go back now and cover the floor etc. with the thermal and sound barrier material before I put the body on. It will be easier and I can cover at least up to the seat area prior to putting the body on and attaching the back wall.
Got a chance to do some more work on the GTM between cleaning up snow that seems to fall every two days and work. After I built the kick panels and moved the electronics I decided to build a mold to make a fiberglass cover to hide the electronics moved to kick panel. The picture below is my cardboard mold that I covered with blue tape prior to fiber glassing.
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This is what the fiberglass cover looks like when finished, this one fits the passengers side and hides the fan controller and control module for the escort 9500ci.
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Here is the kick panel with the fiberglass cover installed on the panel that now has the dead pedal installed and I have covered it with sand able foam in preparation for covering. I still have some wiring to finish tying up under the dash as well but it is starting to get there. I have also started installing the sound / thermo mat in the drivers foot well. I hoe to get the foot well done with barrier and carpet before I fit the body on as it seem it will be harder to get to after the body is on the frame.
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You have to be careful with the seats when the body is not installed. if you are short and need to move the drivers seat forward, if the upper bolster goes into the door area it may hit the door, I know as I am also vertically challenged. One thing I found out is that the seat has to be as close to the inside tunnel as possible or the upper side bolsters will hit the door. If the bolsters on that seat are wider than on the seat provided by FFR it will probably hit the door when you move it forward.
Thanks for the heads up on the seats, I think they will fit and I am modifying the door panel so should clear there. If the shoulder bolsters are to wide I have looked at modifying them to decrease the total length across the bolsters. Have not had the body on yet but getting ready to and will check them before I send seats to be recovered. Both sides are as close to the tunnel as I can get them now and yes you are right I get in the care and have to slide it forward to driving position.
I have been away for a couple of weeks at NASCAR race in Vegas and am in Phoenix now, it was so cold in Wyoming we decided to go to Phoenix they have race here this weekend then go home and hope its is warmer has been -5 day and -17 at night so since we are down south were it has been 80 decided to stay an extra week.
Well back home and getting to work on the GTM again. Continuing where I left off, I have been working on the foot well kick panels to cover the exposed square tubing and to hid the modules I moved from on top of the Infinity Box mounts (supplied by Shane at VRaptor) and down to the upper foot well for access after the body is mounted to the frame. I have made is so that after the body is on and should the need to remove one of the modules arise I can remove the covers, unplug the module and remove from the GTM with relative ease, have to get into the foot well somewhat but can be reached with no problem. As the process was going along I decided I would try my hand at the upholstery and cover the kick panels. I covered the wood form with 1/4" foam and the removable cover with 1/8" foam, then covered the large panel portion with one of my interior colors an reinstalled the completed panel with the electronic modules attached, connected all wiring and installed the cover over the connected modules. Have no made the covers for the curved module cover but will attempt to sew these myself and cover with the same color. I took some time to figure out ho best to cover them and this is my first attempt and upholstery work but I wanted to do as much of the work as I can myself, then hand it off for the finishing touches. Hopefully I can figure out most of the interior but seats going to shop to be recovered and modified is needed. Below is some pictures of the finished kick panel.
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Sorry guys don't know what happened here, not sure how it posted the pictures twice, did not mean to clutter up the post.
If that's your first upholstery job, you killed it! Looks great!
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts
Thanks Shane, it was my first try at it, always had someone do it for me but figure after watching them I could figure this out as well. Got the passenger side done now and starting on the foot wells tunnel walls and front end carpet are next on my list to tackle. Once this is completed the body will go on to finish the fire wall etc. Still think is will be easier to work on the interior this way with the body off so I can fit my older self under the dash parts and reach everything without having to go through the door opening. At over 60 I just don't bend like I used to...….
Think I might try to do most of the upholstery myself, looking for a good sewing machine now to French stitch what I need to sew for the interior. We shall see if this old dog can learn a new trick....
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We do all of the interior that we can with the body off for that very reason. All carpet and tunnel suede installed, tank covers, waterfall, rear window panel, seats, seat belts.....everything except the 3 main dash pieces.
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts
That looks amazing James, keep up the great work.
Took some time to figure it out but got the glove box or Shane's storage compartment door done, completely covered both front and back and still have the hinge operate being covered with the door. The door is smaller as I had to cut the size down to fit over the top of the lines I had mounted in the tunnel and show in a earlier post. It came out better than I had expected so into the passages side tunnel now to see how it will all go together.
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Got my sewing machine ordered so now a new learning curve as it will attempt to do the complete interior myself. Used to sew but been a long time with raising kids and work so if I can remember the right way to get the job done it might even come out right. Thought about using leather but since I haven't done it for over 30 years think I will go with a heavier than supplied vinyl (faux leather) so if I have to may mistakes it wont break the bank like buying leather. Will post my progress on this new adventure and hope it goes well, but if nothing else might all get a good laugh at the way some of it might come out the first time !!
Been continuing the work on the interior, got the storage compartment door mounted with the switch plate on the passengers side along with getting the foam on tunnel (really smooths out the hard lines of the panel bends) and due to the foot well kick panels had to modify the next panel that goes below the door opening. I closed up the large hole in the panel for the corvette style retractable seat belts (I am using 4 point harness) then made templet and test fit for some box pieces that will close of the area between the harness mount and the body as I intend to upholster the panel below the door instead of carpet and wanted it to look clean instead of having the large hole where you can see the body. This interior work sure is taking a long time, but think it will be worth it in the end to have it customized (my way) in lieu of the plain black interior. Know it may not add any value to the GTM but hope it will look good and stand out to those who look at the GTM. Kind of crazy I know but..... since its for me guess I can modify it the I think it will look best......one of the perks of building your own car !!
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