I agree Pete - one of the most helpful 818 threads for sure! Sticky vote here too!
Since I am not signing up for engine rebuilding I have had my 2007 EJ255 engine upgraded by AndrewTech, arguably one of the finest Subaru shops. I haven't started a build thread yet, so let me pass on their sage advice that is not already very clear in this excellent thread (thanks LongIslandWRX!).
AndrewTech view an AOS or catch can setup as necessary for this engine. I went AOS as it requires less maintenance than catch cans, but they are equally effective.
The air pump system and TGVs need to go as they do very little in reality - easy Rasmus weight saving targets! As for the issue up there ^^^ and elsewhere of whether 06/07 air pump divers side pressure sensor needs to stay attached, AndrewTech said "no". I have an Accessport and, with all these deletes, you'll need one or another code delete solution in a state that uses the OBD2 for emissions testing (they do in MD).
AndrewTech said if I was driving the car in the winter in the DC area to keep the throttle body heat (AZPete can delete!). They also said to consider a lower opening temperature thermostat, but I will go OEM for now and swap out if needed since I am not planning on any serious racing and I've read that it can cause the engine never to get to optimum operating temp with street use. If you are building an R, that seems like a good mod to have.
I'll also be deleting the ugly header heat shields, wrapping them in titanium lava fiber, and seal with silicone spray. Better looking for sure. I'll also add the ZDM turbo heat shield.
Definitely some great info on here, I hadn't seen this thread before. The only thing I think should be mentioned as something to consider avoiding is that deleting the Evap stuff can cause a gas fumes issue in the cabin. A few people on this forum have had experience with this, so it's probably a good idea for most to keep the fuel evap solenoid and the charcoal canister (or similar setup) on their cars.
Ditto for the coolant lines to the throttle body in some cases, but I doubt most 818 owners drive in below freezing temperatures.
I use the former throttle body coolant hoses to feed coolant to my Tial MVR BOV. For street it's not needed but for road racing Tial strongly advises to use the coolant connections. The TB coolant hoses are perfect for that application. You just have to make the -4AN connections to the MVR.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
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818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
ill bring this one back from the dead. I would always keep that EGT probe in the up pipe. Its a very useful piece of info, and the sensor isn't very big. EGT is the poor mans AFR. Just from a tuning standpoint, that is always a PID when I have my tuning software open.
Would like to expand on the EGT thought. I have one*... on #4, four or so inches from the head. #4, which is supposed to run hotter (unless you've done Dom's cooling mod") and/or because some say it runs leaner (with stock fuel lines?).
I've read that this location is ideal as it's a closer reflection of the hottest temperature that could be dangerous, though assumptions or allowances could be made. That, and you "should" have one for every cylinder...
I typically run below 1,650°F there though I haven't started data logging it yet. However, in my last outing I think I saw 1,720 momentarily. I don't see that this has hurt me (yet). Might melt cheap headers but mine are modified Full Race (Schedule 40, 316 SS) and go into 321SS up pipes.
Thoughts?
* Omega, high-temperature 1/8" probe with sheathed high temp wire
Would like to expand on the EGT thought. I have one*... on #4, four or so inches from the head. #4, which is supposed to run hotter (unless you've done Dom's cooling mod") and/or because some say it runs leaner (with stock fuel lines?).
I've read that this location is ideal as it's a closer reflection of the hottest temperature that could be dangerous, though assumptions or allowances could be made. That, and you "should" have one for every cylinder...
I typically run below 1,650°F there though I haven't started data logging it yet. However, in my last outing I think I saw 1,720 momentarily. I don't see that this has hurt me (yet). Might melt cheap headers but mine are modified Full Race (Schedule 40, 316 SS) and go into 321SS up pipes.
Thoughts?
* Omega, high-temperature 1/8" probe with sheathed high temp wire
One per cylinder is ideal, and the closer the better for sure. 1720 is hot, but not unheard of. I read in an old tuning book about not wrapping headers, or as the author suggested to leave 1-2" off the flange, to allow the heat to get off the pipe and heads. Having one in the up pipe certainly isn't the best place, but I bet not many people have EGT probes in their headers. I always liked the fact Subaru had one there
Just going to bump this a little as i've started paring down my engine.
a few things i am doing that i didnt add to the original post was deleting the oil cooler/warmer which requires 3 subaru parts
21111AA250 the 2008+ WRX waterpump which has the 2 nipples instead of 3 or 21111AA065 which is more expensive but has a cast impeller
15018AA050 the oil filter union
11021AA121 the block plug to remove the one with the hose (use your handy transmission drain t70 to tighten)
this gets rid of the crusty pipe on the front of your block and probably about a half a pound.
Tom over at kartboy makes a single belt pulley, which gives you about an extra inch of clearance in the front of the engine. hopefully i can get him to engrave something stupid on it.
While this doesn't necessarily simplify things, has anyone done the cylinder 4 cooling mod? I reached out to Dominic Acia and he said this is how it would be hooked up with the deleted heater core. This adds an additional coolant line for flow near cylinder 4. Any thoughts?
This would require some welding/fabrication, but you could place a weldment "T" by adding a leg at the beginning of the crossover pipe. Let a hose go on down to the end of the head to the reducing fitting than Dom makes. (The ID of his fitting is the key to this flowing properly!) At the leg of the T route it to the heater core tube from the water pump. If you shorten that steel tube then there will be no "U turn" of the hose and water flow. It will just make a "90" as it comes into the "T's base" you've welded on. I can mark up a photo if this is not clear.
This would require some welding/fabrication, but you could place a weldment "T" by adding a leg at the beginning of the crossover pipe. Let a hose go on down to the end of the head to the reducing fitting than Dom makes. (The ID of his fitting is the key to this flowing properly!) At the leg of the T route it to the heater core tube from the water pump. If you shorten that steel tube then there will be no "U turn" of the hose and water flow. It will just make a "90" as it comes into the "T's base" you've welded on. I can mark up a photo if this is not clear.
exactly, one of these pipes unbolts from the crossover manifold near the back, so you could get that fitting brazed on and make it look like it was meant to be there.
but is the cyl 4 mod as important now that the engine is not in as much of a confined space?
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
I had forgotten that some have that bolt-on end. Mine do not, perhaps because they are all '07-'08 STI?
The thing of interest on mine, which I show in the picture, is that I notched the manifold so that I could use the port in the main oil gallery for monitoring oil pressure or temperature. The blue silicone hose eliminates a crossover piece of metal tubing from the water pump and let me position the coolant expansion tank wherever I want. crossover manifold.jpg
As to the necessity of the cooling mod, I absolutely feel like it is needed for a high performance engine. I've read all about it and I have had discussions with Dom about it, and many other things Subaru engine related. I think its value is proven. For someone who has worked on nuclear subs and built aircraft engine systems using Subaru engines, I have faith in what Dom says.
While this doesn't necessarily simplify things, has anyone done the cylinder 4 cooling mod? I reached out to Dominic Acia and he said this is how it would be hooked up with the deleted heater core. This adds an additional coolant line for flow near cylinder 4. Any thoughts?
I have it on my STI and 818. I bought Dom's original product direct from him, but now I use the OEM Subaru fitting, JDM Subaru Twin Turbo Legacy Plug-Water Bypass, 21170AA020. They are hard to find so I bought 10 of them a year ago from a JDM parts place in Japan. US dealers can't get them. A little more in this thread:https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...r-Versus-Water
I think it's a good idea. So far I haven't heard of any problems from running them and I haven't had any issues yet. . IAG sells Dom's kits now and 3 other companies have replicated Dom's idea with their own products.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer