Self inflicted issues

[EZ$]

So, I was trying to finish the plumbing before I started with the engine compartment wiring, and I needed a port for a barbed hose fitting to connect from the intake manifold to the heater. So I located a plug that wasn't being used for anything else, and proceeded to attempt to remove it.
IMAG1261 by Rick Paul, on Flickr
All the other plugs that I needed to remove came out with a minor fight, but they came out clean, no problem. The one that is circled in red in the photo was another story. Would not budge using a 5/16" allen wrench, so I scraped off any sealer that was around the edges of the threads, and saturated it with PB Blaster, and left it overnight. Applied some more today, and figured I'd get a 5/16" socket with an allen wrench, (not sure what they are called), so that I could get more leverage. Mounted it in a breaker bar, and proceeded to try to loosen it. All I managed to do was to screw up the allen socket in the plug, so that the wrench is useless at this point.
So now I need to figure what I can do to remove this buggered up plug. Do I need to drill through, and use an easy out, or...?
All suggestions will help. I'm in unknown territory.

Thanks

[SSNK4US]

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8...gateway&sr=8-3

Try something like that with your “Allen wrench socket” on it. It’s amazing how it will loosen stuff up.
If your Allen is 100% gone try a “torx wrench socket” (one you can trash) a hair bigger and tap it in. Just keep in mind when your hitting the tool with your hammer you have to program your mind not to use enough force to break your manifold. Lol I’ve had my tool since I was about 20 (a really long time ago!!!) and it’s gotten me out of a LOT of tough jams.

Kurt

[EZ$]

Will heat help or hinder the removal. I'll check out the torx bits and see if I can get it to bite without damaging the intake manifold. Just really frustrating. Thanks for the suggestions.

[lance corsi]

Easy-outs should be called "no way outs"! I've never had luck with them. They can & will break off in the hole if you get too rowdy with them. Then you've got a door stop. The main problem with easy outs is that they tend to expand the problem broken bolt/screw as you increase the torque. This is counterproductive to removing a captive object.
If all else fails, remove manifold and weld a nut onto the exposed face of the pipe plug, remove while still hot. It works.

[BadAsp427]

While it wont help you with the current issue, I'm confused as to why you are trying to pull that plug. For your heater you should have two ports all ready part of the engine. One coming off of the water pump and another somewhere just above that coming off of the intake. Just above the thermostat housing typically. Do you not have these? If so, those are the ports for your heater that are typically used.

Heater Ports.jpg

[CraigS]

Leave it and follow BadAsp's idea. Those are where my heater connects.

[EZ$]

OK, so there's the port just above the thermostat, but that one is holding the coolant temperature sensor for the Fuel injection system. The other one that Bad Asp has highlighted, not the water pump port, I had the water gauge thermostat. I tried putting a tee into that one so that I could have the gauge thermostat, and a fitting for the heater hose, but the tee won't go on because of interference from the front right throttle body. I wasn't sure if the heater hose could be connected via a tee into the thermostat fitting. I think I could get the tee to spin on to that port, but again, I wasn't sure that was a good location. But I do like the idea of bailing on that plug to try a different option.

[Papa]

OK, so there's the port just above the thermostat, but that one is holding the coolant temperature sensor for the Fuel injection system. The other one that Bad Asp has highlighted, not the water pump port, I had the water gauge thermostat. I tried putting a tee into that one so that I could have the gauge thermostat, and a fitting for the heater hose, but the tee won't go on because of interference from the front right throttle body. I wasn't sure if the heater hose could be connected via a tee into the thermostat fitting. I think I could get the tee to spin on to that port, but again, I wasn't sure that was a good location. But I do like the idea of bailing on that plug to try a different option.

Try something like this from Breeze: https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...cw-water-pump/

The kit is designed as a heater bypass, but the parts you need are there, too. Just connect your heater hose instead of the bypass hose.

Dave

[EZ$]

Dave, That looks as if it would thread into the port where I currently only have my water temp gauge sender. I could connect the heater hose and the gauge sender with the right bushings. Thanks for that find! I won't be able to call Mark until Friday, because of work, but I'll call and talk to him just to make sure. Thanks again.

[dwheeler]

You can hammer a 12 point / triple square into it. That usually grabs well enough to get it out.

[EZ$]

Dwheeler, that's one of my options if the Breeze part won't work.

[AC Bill]

A lot of fellows disposed of the steel OEM heater pipes, when using a donor 5.0, but they actually were the best option if adding a heater. They had a location already tapped for the sensor.

[rich grsc]

A lot of fellows disposed of the steel OEM heater pipes, when using a donor 5.0, but they actually were the best option if adding a heater. They had a location already tapped for the sensor.

Not on many after market intakes, and defiantly not on a stack intake.

[EZ$]

Bill, I'm glad Rich jumped in here, cause I wasn't sure what you were talking about! I'm still not sure, but that just shows my lack of knowledge. Anyhow, for those who were looking for a more complete picture of the engine, here you go.

P4060118 by Rick Paul, on Flickr

[AC Bill]

The stock 5.0 had steel pipes that ran along the intake manifold, back towards the heater core. The EFI manifold was tapped for the threaded end of one pipe, and also had a port for the sensor. Although some performance manifolds had them, as Rich mentions, some aftermarket manifolds didn't have that hole tapped to allow for the stock pipe to be attached.

[EZ$]

Bill, sounds like it would have made my life a bit simpler.

[AC Bill]

Well, hopefully the Breeze unit will do the trick for you.

You could also use threaded brass fittings, and make up your own T, similar to that Breeze one. You need to find a part shop that has a good selection if brass. Need a brass block with three threaded female outlets, a double male nipple fitting for the manifold, to T block, male threaded barbed fitting for the heater hose, and a male/female step adapter fitting, for the sensor to thread into.

[rich grsc]

Not the easiest to see on a finished car, and sorry that this site turns all my pictures sideways.
The first shows both the temp gauge and the computer temp gauge, in the location you're trying to use.
heaterhose2.jpg
The next one is the top of the intake, I used a straight barbed fitting and a bent hose, about 120*, this feeds the heater.
heater hose 1.jpg
The last shows the hose to the heater and the return to the pump, again not the easiest to see.
heaterhose3.jpg

[EZ$]

Rich, thanks for the pictures. I had to really stare at them to see exactly the parts you mentioned, (my eyesight is so bad, even with my reading glasses). I just got off the phone with Mark at Breeze, and he has the exact part that I need to fit in the port that I already have open that I can use for the heater hose barbed fitting, and the water temp gauge sensor. It's a hex piece that at it largest diameter will clear the throttle body. I have to thank Dave, (Papa), for that find. This will hopefully allow me to finish the heater connections, and the balance of the cooling system hoses.
I want to thank everyone for all their help.

[rich grsc]

Click on the pictures, they will expand.