Sorry for the cross-post. I put this in my build thread but I'm pretty stumped so I thought I'd post it as a separate question. I've been working on the Wilwood pedal box today, and I've run into a bit of a surprise that I'd love some input on. The clutch pedal appears to be hitting the 3/4" tube and not able to extend fully to the back of the footbox. I'd read about this issue in many older build threads but was under the impression that this issue had been resolved on the newer frames, so I'm a bit surprised to run into this. I don't see how I can adjust anything (or have installed anything incorrectly to have caused this), so I'm a bit confused at the moment. The clutch pedal, when fully depressed to the point that it's hitting the 3/4" frame member, is still ~9/16" away from the footbox back. Is that "close enough" or do I need to do something here to resolve this issue?
Thanks,
John
The footbox sheetmetal is tight to the thick plate behind it:
Both support brackets are in position properly, per the instructions:
Here you can see where the pedal is hitting the 3/4" tube:
Here you can see how far the pedal is from the footbox wall:
MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.
I have an older mkiv and I had to use a large c-clamp to egg the 3/4 tube so that the clutch pedal would clear the tube
I think that it would be better for the pedal to go all the way down without hitting the 3/4 tube because it is going to stop the pedal travel every time you use the clutch and may cause damage to the clutch pedal mechanism
Rick
#8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater
I read that older chassis' had such an issue that the pedal (or frame) needed a major notch to achieve full travel. Not sure why your's has interference.
I have MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17 and didn't have this problem. (Was told the chassis was modified late 2016 to resolve this issue).
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
I have 9026 and I believe it would hit the frame before it got to the footbox front, like yours, but I still had to build a pedal stop as the clutch didn’t have that much travel.
What clutch setup are you using? Looking at your pics I’m assuming hydraulic. I have Fortes’s hydraulic setup.
Either way I wouldn’t worry, I think the pedal will have more than enough travel to release the clutch before it hits the frame, and you’ll probably want to make some kind of pedal stop so you don’t over extend the slave cylinder, not sure on cable systems, if they need a stop or not?
You definitely don't need the clutch pedal to go all the way to the foot box wall. I actually had to adjust my pedal back to align with the brake pedal and still have plenty of travel.
OK, well... not that I don't trust all of you but being the OCD sort that I am I couldn't leave this unaddressed. I also figured that I'd much rather deal with it now than later when I've got panels and whatnot in the way. The interference didn't look *too* bad, so I decided that clearancing the pedal was the easiest way to deal with the issue. It turns out that I didn't have to remove as much material as I'd feared... just a little haircut on the webbing on the one side with the angle grinder and a carbide bit, and now the pedal goes all the way to the back wall with no issue. I'll throw some POR15 on there next time I have the can open, and call it good enough. The comments on not wanting the pedal go that far back and installing a pedal stop are all appreciated and I will definitely plan to install a pedal stop. I just didn't want the 3/4" tube to be the pedal stop.
Thanks,
John
MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.
If you're doing a clutch pedal stop, here's my clutch pedal stop/throttle pedal stop assembly. The carriage bolt for the throttle rests on the pedal arm, but the carriage bolt for the clutch rests on the back side of the actual pedal.
Last edited by boat737; 05-19-2019 at 11:29 PM.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it. Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch. Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.