Well last year I had some engine issue where the car would not stay running. I did a complete reset of the Fast EZ hand held and then cleaned the spark plugs and O2 sensor. Once I started it up I adjusted the adjustment screw to allow for more air to come in. Then she idled good.
Last night I wanted to see how the lights work in the dark so started it up and it was idling at 2,000RPM. Got the Allan wrench out and adjusted once more to get back to about 1,000RPM.
engine was running nicely for a while so I got in, put it in reverse and backed out of the garage.
Halfway the drive way it just stalled out of no where again.:frown2:
Let it cool down, pulled all the plugs, cleaned them and put them back in.
Adjusted the adjustment screw to allow more air again and she started up so I could get it back in the garage (it's now after 10pm)
This morning it started up again without issue so I pulled it outside to let it idle for a good long while. After adjusting a little more she ran nicely at 1,000RPM at idle.
Still the exhaust is very black and is leaving a mark on the driveway.
As I was filming that to get opinions from you guys I wanted to rev it a bit but you can hear it just stalls out again. Now the car had been idling for probably a good 30 min no problem.
Then when trying to re-start the car just doesn't want to catch. You can also see smoke coming from the breather cap while trying to start.
Then when you pull a spark plug they look like the attached pic.
Does the FAST-EFI System hold it's flash (program) should the power source get disrupted?
If it doesn't then did you disconnect the battery lately or could this possibly a bad constant hot and/or grounding issue?
I'd contact the manufacturer if you can't locate a forum member who is an expert on your system.
Good Luck & Hope You Get The Answers You're Looking For!
Where exactly do you have the 02 sensor installed? I ask because I had the exact same symptoms as you are having and it all came down to where the sensor was located.
With it running that rich you might want to watch out that you are not diluting the engine oil. raw gas will leak past the rings and reduce the engine oil lubrication... Ask me how I know.. ok don't I'll tell you. One of my very early home garage engine rebuilds included a used improperly rebuilt carb. after shutdown it dripped just a couple of drops of fuel from the boosters.. well over a short time all that gas diluted the oil and spun a bearing.
Bottom line get that mixture fixed before it causes other problems.
My FAST acted the same way to the point of fouling several plugs. I fought with it and after getting nowhere, BPE sent me a Holley Sniper to swap it out with. I'm very happy with the Sniper, and never found out what the issue was with the FAST XFI Street.
Where exactly do you have the 02 sensor installed? I ask because I had the exact same symptoms as you are having and it all came down to where the sensor was located.
John that is a poor location for the O2 sensor. It needs to be with the bottom of the sensor facing between 9 and 3. That is with 12 being straight up. Also check if the sensor data is correct. I had the same problem and it ended up being a bad o2 sensor telling the computer the engine was lean when it was really over rich. Good luck.
Does the FAST-EFI System hold it's flash (program) should the power source get disrupted?
If it doesn't then did you disconnect the battery lately or could this possibly a bad constant hot and/or grounding issue?
I'd contact the manufacturer if you can't locate a forum member who is an expert on your system.
Good Luck & Hope You Get The Answers You're Looking For!
Steve
Steve,
I assume it would. As I was working on the car I tended to remove the negative from the battery to save it. Then when I want/need to run the car I'll re-connect the battery.
Lately I've been keeping it in place and just keep the trickle charger on it. I know I need a new battery but once it runs it should stay running no problem.
I agree it dumps too much fuel but not sure how to adjust/regulate that.
John that is a poor location for the O2 sensor. It needs to be with the bottom of the sensor facing between 9 and 3. That is with 12 being straight up. Also check if the sensor data is correct. I had the same problem and it ended up being a bad o2 sensor telling the computer the engine was lean when it was really over rich. Good luck.
It is located on the down side of the 2 in 1 collector. So it seems that it is between 9 and 3, but I think what your saying is that it should be on top?
I'm just going to get anew O2 sensor because the unit says its good, but what does it know!!
With it running that rich you might want to watch out that you are not diluting the engine oil. raw gas will leak past the rings and reduce the engine oil lubrication... Ask me how I know.. ok don't I'll tell you. One of my very early home garage engine rebuilds included a used improperly rebuilt carb. after shutdown it dripped just a couple of drops of fuel from the boosters.. well over a short time all that gas diluted the oil and spun a bearing.
Bottom line get that mixture fixed before it causes other problems.
your not going to want to hear this but I agree with Wallace18 in that you have the 02 sensor in a bad spot. If you can somehow locate the sensor to sample 4 cylinders instead of 2, all the better. I found one pic on your photo bucket that shows right where you have your bung which is marginal at best. Your sampling 2 cylinders (partially).
I am not familiar enough with the coupe to advise where to locate the sensor but I highly suggest moving the sensor to the far most aft location beyond the collector. I had the very same issues as you are having with my sensor located in the header tube (albeit not laterally aligned such as yours) on my Roadster. Car ran like dirt! I ended up (on advice from FiTech) to move the sensor to the side pipe after the collector. It was a major pain in the butt to do but the payoff was a smooth running engine that doesn't run rich. Night and day difference. Your motor is running "scary rich" and I would not run it again until you rectify the issue. As Wallace18 advises, look at the sensor data first to see if your O2 sensor is ok or not. And I know your EZ is different than my FiTech but the concept is the same. Your sensor needs to send back information to the ECU as accurately as possible. I suspect your simply not reading enough cylinders OR your reading back pressure from one cylinder while trying to sample the other. Move the bung 2 more inches closer to the side pipe from where you have your bung and you would have a solid 2 cylinder sample. 4 is optimal.
If these symptoms sound familiar, zone in on the 02 sensor:
1. Engine initially fired right up on base tune.
2. Idles rich (black smoke from side pipes, either one or both)
3. Advancing/retarding timing makes no difference.
4. Engine runs at idle then stalls, with no ability to restart.
5. EZ is getting fuel
6. EZ is sending spark
7. Reverting back to a base tune repeats all the symptoms above. One step forward, two steps back.
Had to recam my Ford long block to make my FAST system work in my 33HR to little vacuum for the system to work with the 303e ? Cam. Plugs looked just like yours. Switched to a Holley sniper on my 35 truck and it’s better but not great. Idle surge issue but not fouling plugs.
2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
Deep Impact Blue
2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.
Well I moved the O2 sensor and got a brand new sensor too just in case ($185 later...).
Started the engine and it ran really nice, just too high in RPM again. No black smoke from any of the pipes. Started down adjusting and she ran nice at 1000RPM. Then when revving stalled again.
No re-start possible.
Cleaned all plugs, charged the new battery up a little more. Started again and now all pipes but the top driver are clean. That one though is blowing white smoke. Engine runs raspy too when revving. Just ran it enough to get it back into the garage.
I don't understand why it ran so nice and then reverted back to crap!
Ok, so your Messing with the idle adjustment. I’m going to assume you have your idle RPM set yet it’s still idles higher than what you prefer when the car is warm. Yes?
Had to recam my Ford long block to make my FAST system work in my 33HR to little vacuum for the system to work with the 303e ? Cam. Plugs looked just like yours. Switched to a Holley sniper on my 35 truck and it’s better but not great. Idle surge issue but not fouling plugs.
I have an Edelbrock top end kit with a different cam. Not sure though if the vacuum is enough with that one
Correct
idling at 2,000RPM, So I turn it down to 1,000 and it start to bog. In the unit its set for 900.
Should I increase that?
How long are you giving it to wam up (it will idle high naturally for a bit) before it settles back to your set idle RPM. Sometimes forcing these things to run how you want them too right out of the gate only complicates matters. They do best by learning on their own to be honest. I do think you have resolved your rich run problem though. Do you happen to have fuel gauge inline with the EZ? Could you simply be starving for fuel at this point. Also make sure you have your vacuum lines where they are supposed to go. And 900 rpm is a solid place to be at this point.
I’ll also mention. There was a recent thread where EFI users were having issues with ignition signal interference. Even states that in the FAST EZ installation instructions.
I did a cigar smoke vacuum leak test on mine using a harbor freight hand held transfer pump. In my case, it revealed a crack in the underside of my plastic intake manifold.
I did a cigar smoke vacuum leak test on mine using a harbor freight hand held transfer pump. In my case, it revealed a crack in the underside of my plastic intake manifold.
New plugs, new battery, new tune and she started right up settled fairly quickly to 900-1000 RPM too. NO SMOKE, yahoo!
Back her out of the garage to keep the exhaust outside. Then I hear this sucking noise under the hood. When revving you hear popping from the engine/exhaust and then it died again
For full disclosure the timing has not been set properly for this engine.
New plugs, new battery, new tune and she started right up settled fairly quickly to 900-1000 RPM too. NO SMOKE, yahoo!
Back her out of the garage to keep the exhaust outside. Then I hear this sucking noise under the hood. When revving you hear popping from the engine/exhaust and then it died again
For full disclosure the timing has not been set properly for this engine.
No vacuum leak.. As it appears its the closing of the butterfly inside the throttle body.
Idles really nice but if you want to rev it, it starts to pop and wants to stall. Which happened as I was trying to get it back into the garage so now I have to wait for cool down again.
Fast EZ tech said idle adjustment was to far open causing the sucking sound.
Have a few thing to look at for values to see if we can get within range
Your close John. Stick with it and it will settle in. Mucking with the idle adjustment screw...... well …... screws things up. Bogging when under revved throttle can be resolved by adding/removing fuel. In Fitech world, its under ACEL/DECEL settings. But like I said before, these things want to build their own fuel map based on learning. And the only way to do that is to allow it to learn.
Back to running fairly clean at idle but still bogs and eventually stalls. Does that mean its not getting enough fuel then? There is a set point to influence the fuel to air mixture I believe.
just seems your getting TOO MUCH fuel when the FAST is asking for it. OR, it doesn't know what to do with it. Do you have a return line and is the pump in the tank?
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by RickP
