Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: 5,000 Mile Report

[edwardb]

Hi,
Thank you for the detailed build story. I'm nearing the finish of my Gen 3 build. You mentioned and pictured a few updated aluminium panels like the ones for the front wheel wells and the small pieces for rear upper wheel wells. Are there any more panel updates that are available and did FFR just ship them to you?
Thanks in advance,
Lou

You're welcome. I have fun with these build threads and appreciate the feedback. You're testing my memory here... What I remember is revised panels in the area of the front wheel wells and around the headers. They no longer have a fill over the header area. There were also new upper (attach inside the cowl) and lower (attach to the pontoons) splash guards for the front, and the filler pieces for the rear upper wheel wells. There were also new longer hatch hinge pieces. Pretty sure that's it. I didn't have to request. They assembled update kits for all sales to date some months ago when this was happening. Somewhere around 100, but don't quote me on that. I did call to expedite the shipment on mine since I was ready for the parts. But chalk that up to my impatience. Not Factory Five customer service. I don't know when the affected parts were incorporated into the kit. If in doubt, just call and find out.

Congrats on your Gen 3 Coupe build! More details and pics please. We love build threads.

[Lou95gts]

Thank you for the info. Funny you mentioned the rear hatch hinges. I had to cut and lengthen mine to fit. I guess the new ones will fit without mods.
I've sent FFR an email asking for the parts.
Lou

[edwardb]

This is probably my most trivial update to date. But finished the initial fabrication of the door cards and door bins, so will post to close that out. The doors on the Coupe are thick and have a good-sized opening. Since there’s no roll down windows () the area is free space. So decided to put it to use. Fabricated an aluminum bin for each door that’s 3-1/2 inches deep and basically the size of the opening. They’re held in place with 10-32 screws into nut plates bonded on the inside of the door. Nylon spacers hold them out to where they will be flush with the inside of the door cards. Then cut openings in my hardboard door cards that are nearly flush at the top and leave material along the bottom to hold stuff in. The shape of the openings are the same theme as the glovebox, so hopefully look like they belong. The inside of the bins will be lined with vinyl and carpet on the bottom. I also wanted to add door pulls. After looking at several options, realized I had the pulls right in front of me with the openings to the bins. But pulling on the door cards directly is probably not the best idea. So added strips of 1/2 x 3/16 steel that are also attached to the doors with spacers and nut plates and will be tight against the inside of the door cards and just below the bottom edge of the openings. Turned out nice and solid and I think will work great. The door cards will get 1/8-inch foam and then vinyl covered. The upper part will be plain vinyl, the lower part the C-F style vinyl in the seats and elsewhere, with red stitching on the line visible in the pictures. The door cards will be held in place with the door openers at the top (also going into nut plates) and strips of 3M Dual Lock reclosable fastener material. That’s what I have holding the door cards on #8674 and they've been rock solid.

Passenger side bin and door pull. Drivers side looks the same. The white material is white powder coated scraps left over from #8674 that I recycled for this project.



Passenger side done except for covering.



Same for the drivers side.



Another item I’ll mention. Many have told me that the Coupe doesn’t have great vision out the back through the hatch glass. I’ve had a couple recommendations for a full-time back-up camera. Not a bad idea, but didn’t go there. One idea I saw – and Factory Five offers them on their website – is the 14-inch Longacre Racing wide angle rear view mirror. Thought I would give one a try. Ordered from Summit since Factory Five was showing out of stock. Plus the Summit free shipping thing. Received yesterday and took it for a 0 mph test drive. One word IMO. Fail. First, they’re designed to be mounted on the roll bar versus the windshield. They come in 1-1/2 and 1-3/4 bracket sizes. The roll bar behind the windshield measures 1-5/8. Since Factory Five has the 1-3/4-inch version on their website, that’s the one I ordered. And, no surprise I guess, the brackets only go to slightly under 1-3/4 so don’t clamp tightly. Could modify the brackets, but before I did that, confirmed where the mirror would sit and what the view looked like. Not good in either case. Due to the design of the brackets and attachment to the mirror, plus the location of the roll bar, ends up very close to you. Almost in your face. Plus, the angle has to be really wonky to see out the back and I didn’t see where it added that much. Compared to the more OE style windshield mount mirror included with the kit, very little difference. Not because of the mirrors so much as there’s just so much space available to see out the back. So the Longacre mirror goes back and I’ll be going traditional on the center rear view mirror attaching to the windshield. Fortunately, the BRE side mirrors I have on each side give a good view. So I think I’ll be OK.

As far as the tease from my last update, continue to stay tuned. Should have more news on that in the very near future. That opens up a whole bunch of progress on other fronts.

[wareaglescott]

Great innovation on the door cards Paul!

What do you need a rear view mirror for? Everyone will be we'll behind you and unable to keep up anyways! haha

[David Williamson]

I have the Longacre mirror from FFR and from the short test runs I did last Fall i found it worked well. Maybe my seat possition is different with the Kirkey seats?
David W

[edwardb]

I have the Longacre mirror from FFR and from the short test runs I did last Fall i found it worked well. Maybe my seat possition is different with the Kirkey seats?
David W

Thanks for the comment. Appreciated. Good to hear you made yours work and are happy with it. I checked one more time just to be sure, including looking at max forward angles the brackets could be positioned. Bottom line is I can't get the mirror much further forward than the roll bar frame behind the windshield, and for me anyway that's just too close. But even with it there, as I mentioned in my post, when I hold the kit provided regular mirror at the windshield, the field of vision isn't that different so doesn't feel like a good trade-off. I already feel a little closed in and that everything is kind of close while sitting in the Coupe, even though dimensionally there's just as much or more space as the Roadster. Probably too much seat time with the open top. My seats may be slightly forward of their max rear location, but I don't think that's a big difference. Like so many things, maybe a matter of expectations and personal taste.

[jdavis500]

Looking forward to learning more about your side pipes? It must be hard to stay quiet about them. I am working on the nose locator studs and I have a couple of questions. Since I am shamelessly copying many of your details, did you end up placing bolts thru the fiberglass to mount the stud locators in the pontoons or did you feel that HSRF was adequate? Also, I see a rubber washer in one shot. Is this for proper spacing?

[edwardb]

Looking forward to learning more about your side pipes? It must be hard to stay quiet about them. I am working on the nose locator studs and I have a couple of questions. Since I am shamelessly copying many of your details, did you end up placing bolts thru the fiberglass to mount the stud locators in the pontoons or did you feel that HSRF was adequate? Also, I see a rubber washer in one shot. Is this for proper spacing?

Hopefully next week... For the pins, I have the studs in a steel plate that's roughed up and installed with lots of HSRF. Plenty of contact area to the glass and it's not going anywhere. Yes, I made some spacers out of neoprene to hold the gap even. One thing I've noticed FWIW. Now that I have the cowl positioned and it's been there for awhile, it now drops right into place without a lot of coercing. Wasn't the case at first while trying to get everything lined up. I had to push it to get it back onto the pins. Clearly the fiberglass takes a set and fits itself to the opening.

[jdavis500]

Nice. It seems to take a lot of massaging, but body and hood are slowly finding there way. Mine looks good, but I hope no one looks at it with a straight edge and tape measure. The car doesn't look too bad either.

[edwardb]

Another somewhat trivial update. Expecting some more significant ones very soon. There’s a common theme to this update. Couple of the ideas are from other build threads. That’s the beauty of this community. Lots of shared creativity which I watch closely and pick and choose (and sometimes change a little…) for my builds.

First up, headlight covers. The kit comes with acrylic headlight covers (very last POL item for me) that need to be trimmed slightly to fit the openings. I’m going to wait for that until after paint just to make sure they fit exactly. They are attached with kit provided right angle SS pieces. Another builder posted a suggestion to use 10-32 SS rod end bolts from McMaster instead. Decided to go that way. These: https://www.mcmaster.com/2434k54. Require a couple of minor modifications. The 3/16-inch holes are unthreaded. I threaded them to 12-24, which is a somewhat unusual size. But 12-24 taps into them with any additional drilling, so that’s what I used along with 12-24 button head SS screws. Also used a 10-32 die to extend the threads all the way to the top. The shank will get cut off and probably need a spacer under the rod end. But have them ready for the next step when it’s time to install the covers. Makes for a nice clean look. Note that Peter Brock sells a somewhat similar setup on his website (bre2.net) so that’s another option. About the same cost.



Next up, worked on the quarter windows. First was fitting the formed acrylic scoops. They're provided significantly oversized. Fit both sides to the outline on the body. Like the headlight covers, I’ll wait until paint is completed to confirm the exact fit, then drill and mount. BTW, fit each side individually. They’re slightly different.



When the side windows are installed and running heat or A/C, in most cases you would not want this scoop to be drawing in outside air. So, the windows kit comes with an acrylic panel that’s intended to be placed into the opening for times like that. Couple of issues there. It’s intended to be held in with screws, which isn’t very handy since it’s likely to be taken in and out frequently. Plus the seatbacks are somewhat in the way for accessing the screws. Also, there’s a 1+ inch gap between the back of the window and the edge of the panel if placed on the inside of the body. I had made a note of how Erik Treves (the famous Hawk Coupe) addressed this on his build, so went back and reviewed that. He even posted a very informative video: https://youtu.be/Vj6pKvciQZI. These seal plus slide in and out without any mounting screws. Looks great to me, so unceremoniously stole this idea for my build.

First up though, found the kit provided acrylic panels were a little small to be set up this way. Plus it appears they were cut using a laser cutter, and the edges were burned in several places causing the liner material to be melted into the panels. Only around the edges and still could have been used. But picked up a couple 12 x 12 x 1/8 coated acrylic panels and cut new ones after making carboard patterns. Bent some aluminum angles for the corners, made a couple of pieces for the windows to slide into out of 16-gauge steel, and added some cushion and bulb seal. Sounds easy enough but does take some trial and error to get it all just right. I’m going to get the metal pieces powder coated and will hold the angles on the acrylic the same way the side windows are assembled with 10-32 SS button head screws. Very happy with how this turned out, and thanks to Erik for the inspiration.











Finally, this is the first time I’ve worked with acrylic. I found numerous references that care must be taken when drilling holes as it’s possible to chip and/or crack the material, especially when drilling close to an edge. Learned that there are drill bits made just for this material, so Amazon to the rescue. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Never a bad excuse for new tools. Only drilled the eight holes in these windows so far and seemed to work very well. Plus did a bunch of test drilling in scraps. Will use again for real for the scoops and the headlight covers. As the directions state, the right drill bit plus the right speed are important. If you don’t want to buy these, it is possible to drill with regular bits. But work up very slowly on the size with multiple bits, plus keep the speed down so they’re cutting and not melting.

After a week or so of very hot weather, which kept me out of the shop starting around noon every day, it’s cooled back off to our usual very nice Michigan summer weather. Have been able to get in lots of driving in the Roadster, in addition to the build.

[Erik W. Treves]

Those look great! Very well executed Sir

[edwardb]

Today was a big day. With my prototype headers and sidepipes installed (more later), drove the Coupe for the first time in my neighborhood. Started the Coyote after not running for quite a few months and it fired right up. Had a bit of a scare. Wasn’t getting any alternator voltage on the gauge. The alternator had to be out to get the headers on and off. So yesterday while reinstalling it, I forget the master switch was on and managed to touch the alternator power lead to ground. Sparked good as expected but didn’t see any damage so kept going. With the switch off of course. Now today no alternator output. Was afraid I fried something in the alternator (ugh) but then I remembered the alternator mega fuse I normally install. Sure enough it was burned and open. Did its job! Put in a new fuse and all good. With yet another lesson learned.

First impressions driving are all good. The Tilton HRB and clutch feel great. Smooth easy release. Really nice. The Wilwood brakes even though not bedded yet seemed strong. Power steering felt fine. T-56 shifts great and reverse lockout works with the car in motion. Initially didn’t have a speedo indication, but I just had the GPS antenna temporarily draped under the dash. Put it up on top and that’s working too. Need to find a permanent location. Radiator fan kicked on when it should have (around 190 F) and shut back off when it dropped back down. Interesting that Ford Performance went back to a more normal temperature curve on the cooling fan program with the Gen 3. I did throw a couple codes related to oil pressure. The pressure is fine (I kept a close eye on the gauge) but apparently the one sensor I removed (at Ford Performance agreement) is still active. Will dig into that. Tried the heater and it poured out hot air. Don’t have the A-C charged yet, so no test there. Checked everything over back in the shop, and no leaks or drips. The Gen 3 Coyote runs good, but still could improve some I think. Not sure if it’s still learning. Or likely will need a custom tune at some point. Kind of expect that. In general things are a little loud without any carpet or weather-stripping on the doors and hatch and windshield just taped in place. And since the splash guards aren’t coated yet, lots of pinging from dirt and gravel on the road. But it’s very driveable now. Only did 25-30 MPH in my neighborhood and found 3rd once. Bottom line, all good.

But the real news here is the headers and sidepipes. Now that I have a working setup, will finally give more details. Most know the stock Factory Five sidepipes are loud, a little on the rough side (at least mine were), unfinished, and the transition is maybe less than ideal. I considered a couple of options, but really wanted to stay with the dual pipe traditional look of the Daytona Coupe. Due to the uncertainty, I purposely didn’t order headers with my kit and figured I would address the header/sidepipe situation later. So fast forward some months into my build, and I was pleasantly surprised that Georgie from Gas-N contacted me and asked if I would work with him to develop a header/sidepipe setup for the Gen 3 Coupe. Would I? You bet. I’ve used Gas-N side pipes on each of my Roadster builds and they’re perfect. Look great, sound great, and last. The prospect of that same quality on my Coupe build was something I didn’t have to think about very long.

There have been a number of steps to the process, and I won’t go through all of them. Georgie developed a twin pipe design and I received the prototypes several weeks ago. Note these are stainless, just like the Roadster pipes. But for this stage, not polished. Then we used “Frankenstein headers” to determine the proper configuration of the headers with the side pipes in their intended location. Once locked down, those were sent back to Georgie to use as patterns for the prototype headers. Couple of weeks later, these arrived.



Now installed. And by the way, for those who have busted knuckles and said words Mom said not to use while putting in Roadster headers, the Gen 3 Coupe isn't too bad. The driver side is still tight, but all are reachable. The passenger side is mostly a piece of cake. All but a couple can be reached with a ratchet, extension, and universal joint. I used RemFlex gaskets and high-temp RTV silicone (Permatex 81878) on the bolts. This combination has been rock solid in #8674.









Note these are the first prototypes. Now that they been checked out, Georgie will make a new pair with his legendary stainless steel polished finish. No huge rush because these are fully functional. Did my first drives today with them. Note I don’t have the side hangars on yet, so there’s a little movement of the pipes that will be reduced when those are added. Check out the videos. They're short. But really happened and you get the idea.

https://youtu.be/24kZChAlKeI

https://youtu.be/boH-3-BD52g

https://youtu.be/QCdUdj6n3eM

https://youtu.be/mFHHqadaREs

If interested, you can check with Georgie on price and availability of this new option for the Gen 3 Coupe with a Coyote. Next up, visit the paint shop for my estimate (oh boy…) and scheduling. This will also be the first time I try to fit it into my 14-foot SE. We’ll see how that goes.

[jdavis500]

Love those sidepipes. I think this header/sidepipe combo is the way to go. I jumped the gun on headers from elsewhere, but I already talked to Georgie and I think he can make it happen for me.

[GoDadGo]

What A Way To Spend Retirement!
You Really Missed Your Calling!
Great Job As Always!

[David Williamson]

Well done, you kept the look and got a reasonable sound level. I have Boig single pipes on mine, similar sound level but different look.
Wish I was following you in my build not ahead like I am, so many great ideas.
David W

[edwardb]

Brief update after the crazy last couple of days. Today I tried the Coupe in my 14 foot Serpent Express (SE) trailer to see if it will fit. Short answer. Not really. Probably not a surprise but not exactly for the reason I expected. After driving it in and stopping short of the cover frame in the front, found a pretty major issue. The door wouldn’t open. Doesn’t clear the side escape hatch. Kind of hard to get out and back in that way. So drove it all the way against the front. Like this:



Now the door clears. Just barely:



Sticks out the back as I expected. This I had figured out previously with a tape measure. Found the covering is flexible enough that it will still zip closed.



Conclusion: Ok to use the trailer for transport before it’s painted. After it’s painted? No way. Can’t have the paint touching anything, specifically in the front. But stopping short, can’t get in/out of the door. Winch is an option, but still the interior (e-brake, shifter) will be inaccessible unless the DS window is off. Even then it’s still sticking out the back. I had resigned myself that at best I would have to tie the door up above the hatch spoiler area and tow it with it hanging out. Still affords reasonable protection. But not so much security. Bottom line: Ok temporarily, but not for the long term. Looking at options.

On a happier note, while I had it out and running, took my wife for a short spin around the block. Still rough and noisy, but she really liked it. Likes the seats, the added footbox space, the 4-point seat belts with pushbutton latches, the roof over her head without wind (think hair...), and the prospect of heat for those cold drives. A/C is a bonus. I think we have a winner. Officially have two miles on the odometer.

[Automan]

Congratulations!!!! She looks beautiful

I can hardly wait to start mine up. Currently waiting on Specialty Power wiper motor kit WWk-2. Getting there lololol.

Nelson

[David Williamson]

I had mine a normal enclosed car trailer and even with the Coupe over to the right as far as I could get it, entry exit was not easy. I am 5 -10 and 175 lbs so fairly slim and I just fit. The trailer did not have a left side door, might have made it easier.
David W

[Lougarvin]

Hello Paul,

IÂ’m a rookie coupe builder following your every move. Putting together the front suspension I used the Howe ball joints in the UCA and now trying to install the Energy Suspension dust covers. Not sure which one to use. The big one or the small one?

Thanks,

Lou

[edwardb]

Hello Paul,

IÂ’m a rookie coupe builder following your every move. Putting together the front suspension I used the Howe ball joints in the UCA and now trying to install the Energy Suspension dust covers. Not sure which one to use. The big one or the small one?

Thanks,

Lou

The smaller (shorter) ones. There's really nothing to the installation. Just slide them over the tapered shaft and up against the mounted ball joint before installing into the spindle. Good luck with your build!

[Lougarvin]

Thanks Paul. If I have a choice and it’s fifty fifty I always choose the wrong one. More exercise taking it apart but getting it right is what I want.

Have good weekend.

Lou

[edwardb]

Last week was a big one. Had a complete exhaust system, first drives including wife ride, trailer trial fit, then a visit to the paint shop on Friday. I’m supposed to have my paint quote and planned date sometime this week. They promised to support my plan to have it done in time for me to complete and display at the Detroit Autorama in February 2020. They loved the car. Hadn’t seen a Coupe before, let alone the newest version. A couple of things to address on the body, but in general they thought it wasn’t bad. We’ll see when I find out how many hours they estimate. After some discussion, they are going to paint it body ON. For sure the doors will come off after body work. Not sure about the hood (cowl). That one is easy either way.

So, with all those steps completed, yesterday I started tearing it down. Next steps will be to get the balance of unfinished metal parts to the powder coater, get the interior parts to the interior shop for vinyl wrap, and undercoat the main body and cowl. I would do the vinyl wrap myself (have done it several times before) but since I’m adding red stitching to match the seats, need some help on that one. For the undercoat, leaning towards using U-POL Raptor. I’m planning to put a heavy coat of Lizard Skin ceramic insulation on the underside of the main body roof before the undercoat. Hoping it keeps the interior temperature down a bit. I’m not planning on using the kit supplied headliner. I’m hoping I can get the Raptor down smooth and clean enough to be the final finish. With the roll cage, the underside of the roof isn’t prominent. So, with a decent finish, hope to just stop there.

Have everything needed off and bagged and tagged. Today a buddy came over and helped me lift the main body and cowl off the frame. Just slightly different than the final pictures posted last week. But progress is being made here. Next time together hope it stays that way. We're taking our annual trip to the west coast soon, so will have two weeks out of the build schedule.

[Papa]

The car already looks amazing, Paul. I can't wait until the paint is done. By the way, my BMW has black leather with red stitching and it is a very good look in my opinion.

Dave

[David Williamson]

mine was painted body on with the doors and hood off. The painter figured it was easier to get it taped off and better access for paint that way.
David W

[edwardb]

The car already looks amazing, Paul. I can't wait until the paint is done. By the way, my BMW has black leather with red stitching and it is a very good look in my opinion.

Dave

mine was painted body on with the doors and hood off. The painter figured it was easier to get it taped off and better access for paint that way.
David W

Good feedback. Thanks guys. Regarding paint, that sounds like a similar discussion to the one we had Friday. Yours turned out great BTW. Congrats.

[GoDadGo]

Paul,

I'm sure that this will be yet.Another Autorama Winner.because like a fine wine your abilities just keep getting better and better with age. I'm not saying you are getting old, but I will state for the record that you are most certainly getting even wiser. If I had half your ability my car would be done and done well.

Also, you are going to love the U-Pol product because the texture is determined by your air pressure and distance to the target. If you want to roll it on, then you can do that too; however, their provided sprayer works pretty well as long as you have a good clean air supply.

Steve

NOTE:...While I don't have time to finish my car, I am having fun watching you finish your latest masterpiece.

[RHelweg]

Last week was a big one. Had a complete exhaust system, first drives including wife ride, trailer trial fit, then a visit to the paint shop on Friday. I’m supposed to have my paint quote and planned date sometime this week. They promised to support my plan to have it done in time for me to complete and display at the Detroit Autorama in February 2020. They loved the car. Hadn’t seen a Coupe before, let alone the newest version. A couple of things to address on the body, but in general they thought it wasn’t bad. We’ll see when I find out how many hours they estimate. After some discussion, they are going to paint it body ON. For sure the doors will come off after body work. Not sure about the hood (cowl). That one is easy either way.

So, with all those steps completed, yesterday I started tearing it down. Next steps will be to get the balance of unfinished metal parts to the powder coater, get the interior parts to the interior shop for vinyl wrap, and undercoat the main body and cowl. I would do the vinyl wrap myself (have done it several times before) but since I’m adding red stitching to match the seats, need some help on that one. For the undercoat, leaning towards using U-POL Raptor. I’m planning to put a heavy coat of Lizard Skin ceramic insulation on the underside of the main body roof before the undercoat. Hoping it keeps the interior temperature down a bit. I’m not planning on using the kit supplied headliner. I’m hoping I can get the Raptor down smooth and clean enough to be the final finish. With the roll cage, the underside of the roof isn’t prominent. So, with a decent finish, hope to just stop there.

Have everything needed off and bagged and tagged. Today a buddy came over and helped me lift the main body and cowl off the frame. Just slightly different than the final pictures posted last week. But progress is being made here. Next time together hope it stays that way. We're taking our annual trip to the west coast soon, so will have two weeks out of the build schedule.

I would recommend the Raptor product. I have used it on both my trucks for exterior protection. It also looks amazing when dry. The texture isn't crazy rugged so you can apply it to front bumpers and side steps like I have and they give you a great look, durability, and protection. Hopefully my attachments come up with this post. 1st time trying to upload photos.

IMG-2100.jpgIMG-2101.jpg

[shark92651]

Looking great, Paul. I like your idea for the roof. Are you using the same painter you used on your 20th Roadster and body on? Did you make a decision on color or are you going to keep us in suspense until you unveil some paint pics?

[edwardb]

Looking great, Paul. I like your idea for the roof. Are you using the same painter you used on your 20th Roadster and body on? Did you make a decision on color or are you going to keep us in suspense until you unveil some paint pics?

Thanks. Plan to do the roof insulation and Raptor spray in a few weeks when we're back from vacation. Outside before it gets cold. (Hard to believe thinking about that again already...). I had a decision on color and no surprise similar to the last Roadsters. My plan was to have the same shop paint the Coupe as the last two Roadsters. That's hit a major stumbling block however as new management seems to equal we don't want your business unless the price is over three times before. (Not kidding) Just starting to considering options, but needless to say this is a major disappointment and has me a bit derailed at the moment. On a happier note, sold the too small SE trailer to a local club member and have a new longer version on order. At least that challenge is resolved.

[shark92651]

Wow, tripling the price due to new management is ridiculous. Congrats on the new trailer though, perhaps you can put it to good use soon taking the car to a new painter that actually appreciates a loyal customer!

[David Williamson]

I can see the cost of the Coupe body/paint work being double easily. You have done most of the fibre glass work already so that should help.
In my case the Coupe paint was many times what I paid to the paint my Mkll done 15 years ago, (different shop) shop rates are now double and it is painted to a much higher standard. Oh and after they did my mkll the shop doubled their price.
David W

[edwardb]

Wow, tripling the price due to new management is ridiculous. Congrats on the new trailer though, perhaps you can put it to good use soon taking the car to a new painter that actually appreciates a loyal customer!

I can see the cost of the Coupe body/paint work being double easily. You have done most of the fibre glass work already so that should help.
In my case the Coupe paint was many times what I paid to the paint my Mkll done 15 years ago, (different shop) shop rates are now double and it is painted to a much higher standard. Oh and after they did my mkll the shop doubled their price.
David W

Thanks for the encouragement guys. Still talking but not sure it's going to work out. We'll see. The shop has had some bad experiences with Roadsters (that's all they've painted) and grossly underbid them. I know about several of the situations. But that hasn't been the case for the two they've done for me. I just seem to be getting the brunt of that. I full expected the Coupe to be pricey, and I want a first class paint job. But going from 150 hours estimated (my Roadsters) to now 350+ (with all the glass fitted and mounted in both cases) is off the charts. They're now saying they would only charge for the actual time, and it really is only an 'estimate.' But my trust is shaky at best.

[freds]

Thanks for the encouragement guys. Still talking but not sure it's going to work out. We'll see. The shop has had some bad experiences with Roadsters (that's all they've painted) and grossly underbid them. I know about several of the situations. But that hasn't been the case for the two they've done for me. I just seem to be getting the brunt of that. I full expected the Coupe to be pricey, and I want a first class paint job. But going from 150 hours estimated (my Roadsters) to now 350+ (with all the glass fitted and mounted in both cases) is off the charts. They're now saying they would only charge for the actual time, and it really is only an 'estimate.' But my trust is shaky at best.

Curious about how many dollars are being quoted.
fred

[David Williamson]

Based on the hours in my Coupe 350 hours does not sound out of line. I have lots more body shop time in mine than that but you did more of the fibre glass work than I did.
expensive it was but like they say "only money" and it does look great and yours will too when it is done.
David W

[edwardb]

Curious about how many dollars are being quoted.
fred

I don't really want to say any more than I already have. I'm still hoping for a mutual understanding and don't want to get too deep discussing it on social media. I've already stated the hours they quoted. Multiply that by your local shop rate (they vary) and add material costs. Pretty big variation in price there depending on brand, color, etc. That will get in you the ballpark. Even in the best case, not for the faint of heart.

Based on the hours in my Coupe 350 hours does not sound out of line. I have lots more body shop time in mine than that but you did more of the fibre glass work than I did.
David W

Going to have to respectfully disagree there. I don't know specifics about yours so no opinion there. But mine is ready to start surface prep and prime. Zero glass work or fitting to do. Similar to the Roadsters I've had done three times. And I know exactly how many hours were spent on those. Yes there are differences, but once everything is fitted, hung, gapped (where most of the extra time required for the Coupe is spent) they should be more similar than different.

[mickent]

But for the love of building your own, the smart money would buy a new Vet.

[edwardb]

But for the love of building your own, the smart money would buy a new Vet.

I'm not sure what motivates anyone to make a post like this in a build thread where the decision has obviously already been made. But here's my rebuttal: (1) You're right, building your own is a huge deal. It's not just about the money. If that's not you, then you're right. But it is for me. The enjoyment of the planning, the build itself, and the satisfaction that once it's done are nothing like walking into a showroom and plunking down the cash. (2) "Smart money" is a matter of opinion. I fully expect this car will be worth what I have in it when done. Maybe more. There's no accounting for my labor hours. But I'm OK with that. It's a hobby that I enjoy. I don't do it expecting to be paid. At the very least, it will not depreciate nearly as fast as most production cars, including Vettes. (3) I go to a lot of car shows and cruise-ins. Vettes are a dime a dozen. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure when the C8's show up (which I like alot BTW) they'll get lots of attention. Just like the C7 did when it was first released. But for now, people walk right by lines of Vettes and go directly to my Roadster. I'm expecting that will be even more the case with the Daytona.

So no, I don't agree.

[delta0014]

But for the love of building your own, the smart money would buy a new Vet.

I'm not sure what motivates anyone to make a post like this in a build thread where the decision has obviously already been made. But here's my rebuttal: (1) You're right, building your own is a huge deal. It's not just about the money. If that's not you, then you're right. But it is for me. The enjoyment of the planning, the build itself, and the satisfaction that once it's done are nothing like walking into a showroom and plunking down the cash. (2) "Smart money" is a matter of opinion. I fully expect this car will be worth what I have in it when done. Maybe more. There's no accounting for my labor hours. But I'm OK with that. It's a hobby that I enjoy. I don't do it expecting to be paid. At the very least, it will not depreciate nearly as fast as most production cars, including Vettes. (3) I go to a lot of car shows and cruise-ins. Vettes are a dime a dozen. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure when the C8's show up (which I like alot BTW) they'll get lots of attention. Just like the C7 did when it was first released. But for now, people walk right by lines of Vettes and go directly to my Roadster. I'm expecting that will be even more the case with the Daytona.

So no, I don't agree.

Corvettes are awesome, but they are a dime a dozen. I see them every single day driving around.
That and I really want to build a car is why I'm paying as much to build a car then it would take to buy a Vette.

[P100DHG]

But for the love of building your own, the smart money would buy a new Vet.

Paul I'm afraid he's right. This Coupe was a giant mistake. You should have built the FFR GTM instead and junked a Corvette to build your own super car. LOL.

If it wasn’t for Paul and his absolutely amazing explanations, patience and skill, there would be a real absence in the community. So if Paul bought a Corvette instead of building, documenting and guiding us I can say I’d personally be stuck on several points in my build and if not stuck than certainly confused.

Thanks Paul and sorry about you paint prices I am sure it will get sorted out.

[Automan]

Hi, I was wondering if you had a picture of your under carriage, the way it currently sits. I would love to see where your seat bolts are coming out of.

Im using FFR aluminum low back seats with Speedway universal seat rails. Also used the Kirkland seat brackets for the seats. On the passenger side both my front bolts ended up coming out by bracing where putting a nut on will take some grinding lol. really tried to get the seat in the seat pan. I did the template like you did but was off alittle. longer bolts will fix the issue.

thanks
NelsonSeat 1.jpgseat 2.jpgseat 3.jpgseat 4.jpg