# 1002, SVTFreaks build.

[Svtfreak]

Thanks!

[Svtfreak]

Piddled with fuel system more today. Waiting on 4 little fittings and a filler tube. I did get one pump wired up until I decide how to run second pump, and fuel gauge sender wired and gauge reprogrammed. No pics of any interest. Can I say, those aeromotive stealth 340 pumps are QUIET!

Curious if you ever got back to fitting the tail lights

Steve

Steve, I worked on taillights a bit and am cautiously optimistic. See the preview photo below. It ain't as flush as it looks but I think I'm on the right path. Other than an hours work to finish up fuel, I'll be tackling this next week, and once I'm sure it works, I'll post what I did.

[Svtfreak]

Made up my fuel filler neck today and got it and cap installed. After hours of looking at options, I like the ffr supplied one the best. I'll countersink it so it's flush (and add some support to the back) and take it apart and chrome the parts you see for final assembly.


Installed. Had to move it slightly from originally planned spot.


Tomorrow, I'll be trying to finish up the passenger side taillight. If it works as planned, I'll document the drivers side over the next couple days and show how I did it.

[FF33rod]

That's where I want to put my filler as well, not a problem really with the Boyd tank.

Look forward to the tail light details

Steve

[Svtfreak]

Getting the right angles to get to the boyd inlet is kinda funky. Im not completely satisfied with this neck. I may remake it using a mandrel bent 90 and cut a slice out to get the last little bend to the cap. Dunno yet.

[FF33rod]

I'm using this 90 degree hose from http://www.replicaparts.com/Hot%20Ro...ose%20page.htm
If you leave it long going into the tank it will come out to the stock location (in the trunk fill) or cutting it off brings the fill location up to the shoulder where you you have it...

[Svtfreak]

Thanks, Steve. But since I also moved it out toward the body edge, now I have another angle to make. I tried that same 90* hose.

Taillight content!

As yall may know, I am using hagan 9" teardrop flush mounts. But they are really designed for steel. So it took some thinking how to make them work in glass. I talked to a few more knowledgeable and experienced builders before trying a blend of their advice. Mr Tim provided a ton of guidance.

First thing I did (after cutting the holes, see previous post for that) was figure where the box would go and glue in the studs for that. I used a Devon product that we use at work that's works rally well for applications like this. I roughed up thr plates and smeared it in good, applied it while the box was located and moved it around a bit to get good adherence. Then, since the box would go straight in and out on the bottom due to wheel well, I slotted the bottom slot to the end and now it goes down from the top, then goes on top stud and bolts in.

[Svtfreak]

Next, the big issue I had was the red lens part wasn't thick enough to go through the glass. So I trimmed the lens to have a lip all the way around then I thinned the body around the cutout so the lens sat down in it. This allowed the red lens do stick up just enough.




Next, I cut a piece of lexan just slightly larger than the box. The idea is the lexan, then the box is installed, will push the lens and hold it tight


Once all bolted in, it looks like this!



It sits up just enough that I think when I do my paint, it'll be very close and require very little sanding and fitting. Then the cut and buff will make it exact. I'm doing it then because I don't want it flush now then recessed once the paint thickness is there. The tip top and very bottom, I think I'm gonna also add a dab of the epoxy putty on final assembly, just to add a little extra support since those spots are rhe farthest from the box edges. Then it'll be easily ground out right at the edge should I need to remove the lens ever.

Anyway, the concept worked! Just FYI, the other plan, which Mr Tim used, was to add another layer of the red and use the glue that hagan uses and not recess the lens. If you want an idea of another path that would work also.

Now, I'll be fixing the edges in a few spots I got too aggressive and took too much off, then moving on to drivers side. Once I get them wired up and working, I'll post some pics.

[Svtfreak]

Well, that didn't take long at all. Edges fixed up, all installed and wired up. They work great!
Off


Running lights


Brake lights


They go bright/dim or bright/off for blinkers. Exactly like the ffr lights. They come with a bright/dim module you add if needed. I thought about adding a short led strip at bottom for turn signal but I think this will work just fine. I am very pleased. (They look a little less bright than the photo on driving lights and actually a little more bright in brakes. Maybe the photo angle)

[FF33rod]

Looks excellent! gotta be pleased with that... thanks for the details.

[Svtfreak]

Looks excellent! gotta be pleased with that... thanks for the details.

I have to admit that I am very happy with the results. The driver side is almost done now also. The epoxy on the studs is curing then I'll final assemble it next shop day next week. Then on to trunk and hood stuff. I do have to mod tbe blower Inlet a touch.

You're very welcome, Steve. Hope it helps.

[Svtfreak]

Finished up the drivers side taillight today. Here is the whole back end.
Off


Running


I had no one to press brake for me today so that's all you get lol. I am very please with how they came out but I may add a secomd strip to each to make them overall brighter. Once it's mobile again, I'll take it out on the street at night and see how they look.

Now to mod my blower inlet a touch then move on to trying to finish up body work.

[Svtfreak]

Body work!

Front lower cone in place. Pain in the butt. Think it went in and out 30 times. I haven't decided final fastener yet. Either countersunk stainless or stainless rivets.


SON OF A B.....


Yep. Guess while upside down and on creeper, I drilled wrong place and too deep. Guess I need an aluminum welder before chrome time.

Used grommets to support hood sides. This will both set the gap and be bumpers for installation and removal. I was going to run the bolts through them but now I think I'd rather not have nuts so considering my options here. I know there are some rubber inserts with brass threaded nuts inside but I don't know what they are called to find them. Research time.


Hood side in place. Little fitting left and fasteners. Have to move my front brake like somewhere else.
Looking at this is like looking at a pic with a naked woman. Don't focus so much on the blower that you miss the reason I posted it. Or, just revel in the beauty of a twin screw. I dont blame you lol.


I don't think the hood is gonna fit like I wanted it to, sparky. Guess I gotta stay considering how to put a hump that fits the overall smooth appearance I'm after.

[FF33rod]

"Chin" looks great! how was the width? some complain it's a bit too wide and so they've split it to remove some material....

[Svtfreak]

"Chin" looks great! how was the width? some complain it's a bit too wide and so they've split it to remove some material....

It was Def too wide and also twisted some, but I was able to work it out. I did this by starting on one side and working my way around the bottom and up the other side, it straightened out the twist and I think it's all gonna line up right. When I set the drivers side hood side in place will be the final test.

[Svtfreak]

Last two weeks between doc appt and a work mates mother dying, I haven't had any shop time. Got out there today and got the passenger side hood mounted. Had the bottom held in with bolts from the top into well nuts and found out that that just ain't practical. So I started over. Put the well nuts in the hood sides and the bolts will go up from the bottom. When they are off, it'll leave a hole, I'll prolly get some little plugs to put in for those times painted body color. Otherwise, waiting for the epoxy to cure filling the holes in tbe bottom since they are too big now for the bolts. I am off all next week so hope to get quite a bit accomplished.

Hood side with well nut in it just so I have a photo. More details once mounting is all finalized so I can copy on drivers side.

[Svtfreak]

Worked on good side today. Got it mounted up and gap set. But I’m having a decision crisis. I had planned on having them optional but the head light mount makes it not so easy to install and remove. So now I’m thinking about making a trim piece in the front to hide the grill side and stuff and leave it open. Or make it removable around the headlight mount somehow, but i fear this will leave an unsightly body component. I need to choose quickly. I decided to move on to the hood and then I can pull it out and decide with the hood in place. It would be nice to see all the under hood finish work I’ll be doing, paint and hoses and such. But it goes against the very sleek slick look I am after.

Either way, the well nuts are trimmed to set the gap and side installed, bolts from bottom, so they are accessible.




And it in place after. Still some fine tuning to do but gonna wait till I decide how to proceed.

[FF33rod]

Looks great! I sympathize with the decision you're facing. I've seen build threads where the headlight mount was modified so it was separate from the side piece. I haven't got a bookmark for any though...

[AJT '33]

Ran into a similar issue/decision when I was setting up the front side panels and ended up making a reversible jig I could set into the side cover panel to allow the front portion that attaches to the grill to stay in place. Then I used 10/32 Rivnuts with washers on the backside of the glass on the body side so I could remove the side panel and leave just the rivnut showing with a machine screw in it painted burnt copper. Once all the primer and paint was applied the gap was less than 1mm. What to do on the front end where the headlight attaches was the hardest decision from the practical and aesthetic side of the car. Here's a couple pics of that area, maybe give you some ideas.
20180808_214745.jpg 20180806_113400.jpg 20180806_113346.jpg 20180811_122227.jpg
Good luck!!

[Svtfreak]

AJ, I’m actually thinking about doing something very similar right now.

But first, hood bump! Here you can see how far up the hood is before I did anything. It’s sitting on the supercharger


First thing I did was cut out the liner where it would hit.


This is how far it dropped just from that.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/Gt4DyVB.jpg[img]

Now to layout where i want the bump and how i want it shaped. I tried a couple shapes before settling on this one with some input from friends.


Cut it out, trimmed the edge to give what will be the final product some slope on the edges down to the hood, made a little bracket to hold the front at the right height. This actually makes it not a smooth slope front to back but keeps the front low and not up too high. Here it’s still sitting on the spacers sitting on the blower.


Here, we see daylight! I slid a piece of all thread across the back to give it some support. After I took it off, I also slid a 1/2x1 across to airport the middle. That’ll keep the shape right while I get enough glass in to keep the shape. I’ll touch up where those supports are after the first bit cures and I check fit again.

[1932]

Nice I know how it is to things to work--But look good in our minds.

[AJT '33]

Nicely done and worked out.

I actually bought the raised hood as I did not know if I would have a supercharger or something that might take up the space should I go in that direction. Are you OK in how to glass this together, techniques and tricks? Just dont think you need to do it all at once, glass is forgiving so do a section at a time, let it dry hard and it will make your life easier and if you decide to adjust anything you can without tearing the whole thing apart!

[Svtfreak]

Thanks AJ! I almost did but I really wanted to keep it smooth. I saw the supercharged 3V motor they did for FRPP. I was hoping the coyote would work but knew I would have to do otherwise if it didn’t.

Yessir, I intend to do exactly that. I’m gonna do the front of the slot and the front flat by itself then see how it lays down after I remove the bracing I have shoved in. Then I’ll go from there. I may have to find some creative bracing to keep it in place. I’m going to use foam insulation board to create the negative on the outside and lay the mat in from the under side. Hopefully, the resin will lay up fairly smooth against the foam (I’ll layer smooth clear tape over it to give a smooth finish). Then I’ll fill the corners as needed to shape it and bond it well. I hope. Lol. I’ve done some creative glass work before but never on something that the finished product I wanted to be mirror smooth.

[sethmark]

Looks great. Very subtle and aggressive.

[Svtfreak]

Thanks y’all!

Here we go! Made up some foam plugs the shape I want it to be to fill in the openings. Taped them on real well, flipped her over and layed in some glass. When this cures, I’ll remove the bracing and see how far what moves and how I’ll deal with that if I need to.


This is the underside ready to glass

Two layers of glass in. The rest of the layers will go on the outside and build up to shape the edges like I want.


Then I moved back to the side Panels. Decided that if I do even run the sides, I want them removable easily without messing with lights. So I cut and made the trim piece for the radiator side on pass side. I like the way it turned out. Still wanna curve the bottom a bit more. Now i have plenty time to decide weather to do the rest of the panels and make them meet up to these and make then easily removeable.

[AJT '33]

You can take some foam and cut it to fit between the top of the hood and the inside of the hood liner to fill the gap and also use it to get your base shape before glassing it all together.
Nice job!!

[Svtfreak]

You can take some foam and cut it to fit between the top of the hood and the inside of the hood liner to fill the gap and also use it to get your base shape before glassing it all together.
Nice job!!

Hey I didn’t think of that! Great idea. I’m gonna do exactly that and use it to give some shape to the edge also. Thanks, AJ!

[Svtfreak]

First thing this morning, I pulled off the other foam blocks and see what we got. Success i think! The basic shape is there and looks good.



Now, I roughed up the front and the back sides, broke the gel coat a bit farther and layed down 3 layers of glass mat on each side. This should start forming the radius at the bottom corner and give me enough thickness to grind out the radius at the top corner. Sorry for photo of top being vertical. Took them both after finished.



While it was curing enough to turn it over, I worked on the drivers trim panel. On the other side I noticed the angle of the panel don’t match the hood, so on this side I cut angled spacers for the headlight mounts to set the angle to match the slope of the car better. In second photo, you can see them. This was an after thought, so later I’ll remake them to be one piece with the spacer. Still have to fine tune the gap and where it meets the nose cone. That panel fit there is terrible. Not sure what I’m gonna do but prolly have to build up the nose cone top with glass.



And there went my whole week off lol. Not as much as I wanted to get done. But got a good start on the hood bump. Prolly work on sanding and shaping it this week on my day’s off

[Svtfreak]

Today I tackled glassing the outer skin to the inner skin. I cut and shaped foam to fill the gap and give a nice sloped edge. Wrapped it with clear tape and glued it in. That foam will be there permanently.


Then I laid down 2 layers of matting all the way around. This should get me close enough that filler will complete the shape of it. One more glass job to do hopefully tomorrow then it’ll be on to shaping and filling it to see how it’s gonna turn out. Can’t wait to put some primer on it to see how it’ll look.


I really need to take a day off and clean the shop. But my already limited time makes me not want to. I think I’m gonna get 2 days I counted in October? Between overtime, training, doc appts and kids field trips. I’m usually off 14 days a month and can work 10 of those. Ain’t been happening. Wish I could get back to that.

[Svtfreak]

After checking the tightest spot for amount of clearance (yay for baby girls pink play doh lol), I sanded down the fiberglass today and applied a good layer of filler. Since I’m using 3M platinum plus, it needs to cure awhile. I think I’m gonna take the rest of the day off. Well, after I fix an oops....

I still have some filler work to do on top, but the bottom is ready to start smoothing the entire surface



It dawned on me this morning, on the passenger side trim panel, I left a radius at the top and in driver side, I cut it straight up. While cutting the pass side would have been much easier, I decided to add the radius to the driver side. I cut the part off, beveled the edges good and cut increasingly wider glass strips to glue them back together. Most of the meat is in the back but I’ll do the front next and smooth it all out. To quote one of my guys at work “you are one of the stupidest smart guys I know”. Lol. Yeah, I don’t think I’m that smart, and sometimes I prove myself right.


Back to work tomorrow, and got a lot to do next couple weeks so prolly won’t get much done until early November.

[Svtfreak]

Skimmed the hood bump outside last week and took it down. Today, I roughed up the top and made me a filler squeegee out of lexan. The ruler gives it some support. Used that to skim the top and give it a good curve shape across it so it’s not pool table flat. After it cures, and I get more filler, I’ll sand it smooth and the. Touch up the imperfections. Used the excess to touch up the round bottom corners. After this, it should be really close to final. Since i have some overtime to work next couple weeks, I hope to maybe get this done next Monday on the outside then finish up the inside.

[Svtfreak]

Still more hood hump work. But I think it’s done on the top aide save for final skin coat and primer.

These photos after sanding and shooting a little rattle can enamel primer to see what it looked like.




What you can’t see well on top photos is that the edges are not straight and the radius of the bottom isn’t the same side to side. So I took some high spots down and filled some low areas and got them the same side to side. It also offset the typical FFR center-isn’t-the-center problems. Now, it looks centered.


Then i flipped her over, finished cleaning up the first coat of filler to smooth the bottom side and threw some more in to start skimming and filling small imperfections. Most of the bottom don’t have to be perfect since it’ll have insulation but the center area above the blower will be exposed to it needs to be slick.


This hood is almost ready to let me move on. Gotta finish fitting the nose cone, trim panels, and trunk. Finish building the blower inlet and get a tube, build my bench seat, console and door panels then it’s about time to take it apart for paint.

[Svtfreak]

It was too cold to open the shop and sand filler today. So took a break on the hood. I started building my seat frame. 1/2” x 12” thick wall tubing. After lots of thought and measure and more thought, and sitting on plywood with some foam, here is the basic frame for the seat bottoms. One is 1/2” too long on one leg. I’ll shorten it next week



This is in the car, but it’s too high and too far back. It’ll fall in front the seatbelt tabs



But I ran into a problem here. My goal was the back would drop in on hangers on the upper 2x2 cross tube, then bolt at the bottom and the bottom would slide under and bolt down. But there was no way to get to the bolts then where they would have to fall. So after lots of thought, I went over to a local upholstery shop to get some ideas. Dude is good, and his dad builds cars and did upholstery for years. He suggested I do the back exactly as planned but with a metal frame screwed to a wood form that the cushion and springs are on. Then the bottom frame would bolt in by itself. Then he showed me how to make a wood drop in using elastic webbing to provide the spring on bottoms and back. I’m really glad I went to see him. The ideas he gave me will allow me to shape it easier how I want and the metal frame will just provide support. So what I have will still work!

So, until I go get some plywood and find the elastic webbing, I started working on the waterfall. No real progress yet other than I found part of the reason it wasn’t shaping and laying in right. It was hitting the frame corners at the door hinges. Started fitting that up then came in to cook dinner for the wife.

Among all this, it was 23* this morning (way too cold for this coonass). And my shop was 45*. While not miserable, I don’t work well when cold. Plus, my welding hood died. Then I ran out of metal for the seat. So I was delayed a bit and had to run and get a heater (yay!), hood and metal. Next week, I have vacation (I actually leave Monday morning from work and don’t go back till like December 5th or so) and hope to get a whole lot done. I have steel, some wood to start first versions, and there’s always the hood sides, trunk and blower inlet to work on. I hope to tackle a lot of that.

Sorry for the ramble. I’m excited to be working on something with real, visible end value again!

[Svtfreak]

After lots of fitting, looking, mirrors and flashlight, I figured out that the problem with my waterfall was the radius of the curve on the drivers side wasn’t right. It was too curved on the fall. That was causing everything to pull out of whack. So I pie cut it, and glassed it back up. This made it fit a whole lot better. Got it bolted in with some rivnuts and pretty little bolts. That was a big source of frustration for me out of the way now.




Next, I worked on the seat back frame. The idea is to have it all one piece and it will slide down into brackets the bolt in at the bottom. Then the seat bottom frames bolt in, and the actual material and foam will drop in. This should make all fasteners nice and hidden.

Here’s the brackets that tabs will slide into


Got the basic seat back frame built and dropped into place. Nothing is bolted yet. I want to put the top on and sit in it first. Everything can be fine tuned with spacers for up and down and foam but it all has to be close. I think I’m gonna bring the frame up higher to support the seat back also.

[1932]

Looks good. For me head room with top on is not a problem, but being able to see the traffic lights or up is. So if you will be running the top, set seat so you can see out with top on.

[Svtfreak]

Thanks, 1932 (sorry, I am terrible at remember what real names go with user names lol). I played with it today and the seat height difference doesn’t make a whole lot of difference when it comes to red lights. I’m 6’2” so it’s gonna be hard no matter how low. So I went with driving comfort and picked it up just a touch. When the top is on, I’ll just stop way way way back lol!

Today, first thing I did was put the top on and mimick several different seating positions. Once I figured out what i liked, the top came off and I finished making and tacking up the seat frames. Decided to tie the back to the bottoms for support. The bottom frames will go in first l, following by the seat back (which will have the foam and material on it), then the center frame, then the 3 parts that make up the seating surface and “arm rest/center pad”. If it comes out like I am envisioning, I think it’ll look good and be real comfy. Tomorrow, I may try to start on the wood parts.

[Svtfreak]

Built the wood seat bottoms and back today. Inserts fit just great. Still have to set up the webbing but not while I’m in and out a lot. Got the drivers side filler for the back side done with plenty extra material. The interior guy can final shape that to kinda match the waterfall. I envision the front side seat back kinda following the curve also.

[Svtfreak]

Today, I made the filler part for passenger side then changed my mind. Took them both out. Gonna let the interior dude figure the best way to do it when the time comes.

I sat in the passenger side and marked where the tailbone fell. Cut out the area, radiused the edges well so it wouldn’t cut the web, and webbed it with 2” elastic webbing material. Used 2 flat bars and vice grips to pull it tight to staple it.
Layed our the first ones

Stapled them along one side and the top. Then pulled every other one up, layed the side down, then pulled tide down and the others up until all cross ones where tight and staples. Then pulled the long ways ones tight and stapled.



Once done, when finger tapped, it sounds like a drum.

Tested it out. Sat in the car and thought “wow, I can’t feel a difference. That kinda sucks”. But then I sat in the driver side to mark it and realized that it’s a huge difference.
Went ahead and cut out the driver side and seat back at pressure areas and radiused the edges. Had to call it a day to head to school for the kiddos thanksgiving lunch.

[Svtfreak]

Got the blower inlet finished today. Primed up the fuel system and set the pressure. Then I made a couple aluminum plates to protect the waterfall, whatever finish I decide to do on it, when putting the tabs in and sliding the seat back down. Also called power by the hour and got set up with an NGage device and Lund to do the tune for the blower. It should be ready to run and drive up and down the street again when it gets here.

[Svtfreak]

Cut patterns and then cut out the door panels. Typical ffr fashion, they are not mirror images side to side. The cut the patterns and started on the console. Trying to keep it as low a profile as possible just enough to hide the shifter parts. The boot will cover a large chunk of the chunky top section. The console front vertical oart will house the ac controls and center vents.
Patterns!



Parts!



Assembling the console and making cross braces. Now that the basic shape is done, it’s time to mount it to finish it up. But, that’s enough for today. My 3 weeks off netted good progress. I hope when i get back to work, things are normal and i can continue this next week.