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OK my bad
Tuning will be 8/7
Workin on side panels to clean up around turbos.IMG_8573.JPGIMG_8576.JPGIMG_8577.JPG
660 hp and all is running in the sweet spot. No turbo lag! If i want more will need to go E85 or race gas, but i want to drive anywear i want to go so will stay with 91 pump gas, i am in ca.IMG_8582.JPGIMG_8585.JPGIMG_8588.JPG
Working on getting the front parts and fitting and sanding some. Going to have it on the road next week.IMG_8592.JPGIMG_8593.JPGIMG_8594.JPG
What an amazing build! I'm in awe of your vision and skill to make the vision reality. Thank you for taking time to document your build, photograph the work, and share your thinking as you progress toward finishing the concept at hand.
Thanks
All done for this year. Waiting for throttle body then on the road![ATTACH=CIMG_8601.JPGIMG_8603.JPGCONFIG]112344[/ATTACH]IMG_8599.JPG
getting the chin to fit is no fun, had it ready long time before but had to do it again after some changes.
New throttle body but still have problem, if i move foot real slow it works but any more than that and i only have idle or wide open.
Any one ever had this?
Going to look at wires at foot pedal.
progmgr 1
I think the only way to get a stock bumper that fits our wider car is to cut it and add some in the middle, licence plate holder and such, or find two old one's and weld in then have it fitted to your taste.
As two the front bumper the stock one fit's with stock hardware. The mounts i made went on the fway bar from dan, then two fram.IMG_8074.JPGIMG_8075.JPGIMG_8077.JPGIMG_7682.JPG
I stayed with stock bumper that is short in back and made fenders wider. Did not have two old bumpers to cut and did not to cut my new one.IMG_8026.JPG
Last edited by 1932; 08-17-2019 at 09:43 PM.
I didn't realize you were using Dan's front sway bar. That answers the riddle of mounting the front bumper... Thanks for posting. Keith
Great looking build! What part of Sacramento are you in? I am in Antelope and also built a 33.
Their are a couple of us in the area and would be great to get everyone together at some local shows sometime.
I am just south of marysville, and would like to get together with the other 33 people. Still working out some bugs.
Still have not fixed throttle new throttle body and pedal, looking at wires. If any one has ideas on this let me know! Tuned and ready to go but no go.
Well it looks like the o2 sensor processor bank 1 is bad. That is P064D. That is where we-Ford performance and tuner got to. Must have not been careful one time when welding. So new PCM, that means the body must be up to get at pcm. Some of my work makes this more work but had to happen some time. Most of parts off, but getting the doors off with hinges is hard-how did FFR think we to get hinge bolts after car is done? Have parts but need to mod some things to make it easier next time.
Pulled body (not as bad as i thought) and will be modding some mods to make it easier. Now to check wires and PCM, put aproperit parts on then maybe a little test and put it together.IMG_8605.JPGIMG_8609.JPGIMG_8610.JPGIMG_8611.JPG
well no luck, after new PCM still has same problem ( slow pedal works but blip it and no throttle ). But the P064D code is no more. Will be with Ford Performance on tuesday. I am thinking it maybe could be something in tune, so will go down that path.
OK will not get in trouble this holiday!
We are out of ideas, it seems to be cutting fuel off when throttle is moved fast but works when done slow??
Tuner has been working on tune and it works! Just needs some fine work.
With the body off doing some fixing to make it easier next time. I did not get the window wipers to work right first time ( angle not right). It is more work to get shaft
close to right angel to window, using the under dash dual wipers. Pics tomorrow.
I will say this is getting to the performance hot rod i was looking for!
Body off changed clutch master from 3/4 to 7/8 works good. Tilton 6000 oil bearing.
By the time i made the wipers work i did not like them. Removed them and will go with a unit that fits with roll cage at top.
The driver side turbo was not draining to good, so had to put oil pump on turbo drains.IMG_8613.JPGIMG_8617.JPG
Works good. Now there is no room for any thing and i don't want any!
The pump i used is from Motion Raceworks--Turbowerx scavenge pump #Twx-200m-12v
What high back seats are people using? I have to build head rest or get high back seats.
The optional Kirkey seats that FFR sells with the kit work for me.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
I have car on the road, and it is the HOT ROD i had in mind! But i can't keep a alternator working, it is the one that comes with the engine and running backwards that should not make any difference. Talked to ford performance and do not use the gen wires in the control pack! Use it as one wire.
So if anyone has ideas let me know.
I have the high Kirkeys as I wanted the head support as well. D841D785-399E-4A59-8738-9FC9CD8C6251.jpeg this is mounted on some pretty tall mounts and sliders.
- Peterh226 #1134
'33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10
Looking at Kirkey 65 series, can any give me an idea how these are for driving. They look good but i will be driving my car and want to be pretty comfy.
The Kirkey seats are not what most would call "comfortable", at least not compared to bucket seats in most modern factory built cars. I wouldn't even compare them to something from the 60's as far as comfort goes. But they do provide support in a thin package and that's important for one of these small cars where it's difficult to find enough room to fit things.
You could play with seat angles, widths, and even custom formed padding and improve on the comfort but I doubt you can make any racing seat as comfortable for long drives as a more bulky factory style seat designed with comfort a priority over size and weight.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
My understanding is that running the stock part backwards IS the reason you keep burning up alternators. According to the FFR Coyote Installation Instructions, most alternators have an internal cooling fan with curved blades. When the Ford alternator is spun counter-clockwise these fan blades are very efficient at pulling cooling air in. When you spin the alt clockwise, these blades are very inefficient at pushing air through the alt, and is prone to overheating for that reason. The Honda alt that FFR recommends is designed to spin clockwise so it doesn't have that problem. If you need more juice than the Honda produces, you'll have to do some research to find another alternator that is designed to spin clockwise.
HTH,
Keith
If you want to stay with the current style alternator you might want to check out the Chevy Corvair alternator fan if you need reverse rotation. Perhaps another possibility is a fan (or alternator) designed for a reverse rotation marine engine. Or aircraft alternator fan for reverse direction but now were likely taking serious $$ unless you get a salvage fan to fit.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
I called two main companies about the alternator and got back that it is the fan , but no fans that would work my problem. Found some interesting alternators but not high amp or not high RPM or to big. So went back to the bench to see what i could be done to the one i had. The pulley side internal fan was making turbulent air so off with it, rear fan bent fines neutral angel to push air out. Then my son wired an outside regulator (old ford) up so as to get it away from alternator( as that is what has been going bad) Put it all back together and put over 100 miles on car and working good!
I am in LOVE, driving this car is just to much FUN! The first gas mileage check at 200 looks to be 13 .5, so will be good for 300 before looking for gas. That is every thing from spinning to 2k cruise.
With external regulator under car in wind, still going out! No problem with alternator . Any one know what would be causing this , one wire per ford performance with external regulator so not in heat.
Is the alt grounded well? Do you have a ground strap from the engine to the chassis?
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
Yes and yes.
Looks like whatever it is that the regulator is overloaded, so i am going to put two rege's together and see if they will last two times as long?
This is the bracket and two regulator setup. As of now it is working!IMG_8625.JPGIMG_8626.JPGIMG_8627.JPG
Been putting more miles on car, fixing some body cracks ( when you chop and cut & shape parts need to run them and see how things turn out). Dam fun !
On the same note has any one had problems with the gas cap leaking? I have welded on it so may have made the problem, but it leakes so will have to think and work on that.
Over three thousand miles on car and more!
When i have time to work on car i would rather go for a drive--so i do!