-
Senior Member
25th Anniversary Build
Figured I'd start a build thread now to document the build and ask questions since my car should be arriving tomorrow afternoon sometime. Although from what I'm reading, the delivery will be a little light, lots and lots of back-ordered parts.....
So far Stewart Transportation has been great to work with. Was a flat fee of $1500 for them to deliver to GA.
I ordered the 25th Anniversary Roadster the day it was announced on Facebook. I wasn't planning on ordering a car so soon but it was hard to pass up, especially since the week before my wife and I had driven down and met wareaglescott and took a ride in his car. I asked for the build date to be delayed a little bit since I wasn't quite ready so soon. Not sure if that'll affect what # I get.
I went with the 18" Halibrand Wheels instead of the bronze wheels. I might regret that, but I just couldn't picture the bronze and chrome together.
I turn 40 in 14 months, my goal is to be driving it then.
I have no experience in building a car, so we'll see if I can make that timeline. Worked at a service station for a few years during high school, doing light duty stuff like tires/brakes, oil changes, and driving a tow truck. But haven't done much wrenching on cars since.
So I'll have lots of question.
25th Kit:
Bronze Chassis
Satin black powder-coated aluminum footbox panels
Special Edition Anniversary GPS Gauges
Full set of Special Edition Wilwood brakes
Vintage Halibrand Replica Wheels, 18” X 9” Front and 18” X 11” Rear
Special upholstered Anniversary leather seats with stitched logo and door panels
Special edition side badges and steering wheel center section
Independent Rear Suspension standard with front and rear sway bars
KONI double-adjustable shocks standard
Assembled side louvers
Chrome roll bar
Roll bar grommets
Stainless steel side exhaust
Stainless steel bumper set - front & rear hoops and overriders
All-new carbon fiber dash with glovebox
Sun visors and wind wings
Trunk gas strut kit
All-new Mk4 Roadster dedicated body mold with rectangular 427 tail lights and body cut-outs
Extras from FFR:
5.0L Coyote power steering kit
Headers 5.0L Coyote Stainless Steel 4 Port with Ball Collector
Passenger Side Chrome Roll-Bar
Roll Bar Grommets
Battery Cutoff Switch
Brake Duct Wire Mesh, preformed
EFI In-Tank Fuel System
2018 Mustang IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, and Hubs
Engine:
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 with Mid-shift
Supplied by Forte.
Tires:
Michelin Pilot Sport PS2
315/30R18
265/35R18
Body and Paint:
Plan on bringing it to Jeff Kleiner to do that.
I change my mind every other day on the color....
Few aftermarket items I either purchased or am looking at buying:
Russ Thompson Turn Signal
********** – Seat Belt Bezel
Under Dash Filler Panel – Replica Parts
FF Metal transmission Top
FF Metal Firewall
Billet Custom Button
2L1Z-4022-BA -- Vent Valve Rear End
FR3Z-4A058-A -- Vent Tube
Breeze Dead Pedal
Breeze Radiator Cowl Cover
Breeze Battery kit
Breeze Radiator Shroud
CNC Triple Reservoir Kit – Forte
Transmission Spacer – Forte
CobraHeat Seat Heaters
I'll be saving every receipt from the build too, so we'll see what the total is gonna be
Couple of pics to test out posting pics in here....
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 3 Likes
-
Senior Member
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Nice start and space. Congratulations!
-
Senior Member
He had to have dropped yours off right after mine. Here's a picture I took of yours while still on the truck.Ben Graf.jpg
FFR MKIV ordered 12 July 2019. IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Wheels w/MT tires, power steering, EFI, Heat. 347 Dart w/TKO-600 by Mike Forte, Holley FI, MSD coil and CD box. All new, no donor build.
-
Senior Member
Congrats!
I'm in ATL if you have any questions.
-
Senior Member
Originally Posted by
RBachman
He had to have dropped yours off right after mine. Here's a picture I took of yours while still on the truck.
Ben Graf.jpg
He did say he came from South Carolina. He was suppose to drop one off in northern GA in the morning but that person wasn't around and didn't answer their phone. So he came to my house, had to move all of the other persons stuff out of the way to get to mine.
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Jdav
Congrats!
I'm in ATL if you have any questions.
Thanks, I'm sure I will.
I'm just south of Atlanta in Newnan, GA.
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Senior Member
Congrats on your new build. When I first started my 20th Ann build 4 years ago I found it very helpful to go through each box, checking off each part as I went against the inventory log. Given the number there were a few missing but also made me aware of where everything was. I also bought a some large clear container bins and moved the parts into those. I found there was lots of moving around, opening, looking inside etc, those bins held up well over the 4 years. Read through the manual front to back a few times before starting which also helped. Biggest help however was this online forum, so many ideas and solutions to all the problems you may come across. Highly recommend edwardb 20th Ann build log, helped me a lot during my build. Best of luck and enjoy the journey, it's a lot of fun. Cheers
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Originally Posted by
delta0014
The car is here!
That's A Great Looking Pit Crew!
.What a great car to teach them how to drive a stick!
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 2 Likes
-
Senior Member
Installed most of the front suspension, don't have any shocks yet. Haven't torqued them down yet either, waiting on the shocks to do it all.
Cleaned up the rear diff and painted it with POR15. Worked well.
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Senior Member
Now, Question time...
I pulled out the power steering rack while waiting for the rear diff to dry.
Here is the rack and hardware I was given. The bushings were installed already when I got it, although they are not lined up or pushed in all the way. I cannot get them to budge at all. Not even a little bit.
And the spacer piece does not fit into metal part in the bushings, not even with some love taps. The bolt is very loose in those bushing without it.
Am I missing something? How do I get this to work?
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Not a waxer
The bushings that are presently in the rack need to come out and will be replaced by (4) rubber/poly inserts supplied by Factory Five which will then get the sleeve that is shown in your photo inserted through them.
You realize that the upper ball joint on the passenger side is not fully threaded in and seated in the control arm, right?
Jeff
-
Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Jeff Kleiner
The bushings that are presently in the rack need to come out and will be replaced by (4) rubber/poly inserts supplied by Factory Five which will then get the sleeve that is shown in your photo inserted through them.
You realize that the upper ball joint on the passenger side is not fully threaded in and seated in the control arm, right?
Jeff
Ok, that makes sense. I have the bushings on the POL list, but the rack came with those already in them, so I figured something was up.... Gonna be a pain to get those out, they are tight... Wonder why they are in there?
Now that you point it out I do....
That's why I'm gonna post pics of everything, hopefully someone will correct all my mistakes. Which I'm sure that won't be the last by a long shot.
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Since your using the Breeze front battery mount, I would skip the battery shutoff switch. you will just have to run longer cables to put it anywhere useful. somebody makes battery disconnects that go right on he battery. Personally I never use them unless the battery is really hard to get to.
Mike
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Senior Member
25th Anniversary gauges.
Just got a shipping email for my brakes too.
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Originally Posted by
delta0014
25th Anniversary gauges.
Just got a shipping email for my brakes too.
It's cool that they dumped the clock in favor of an oil temp gauge! Very nice.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Senior Member
Nice progress already. Congrats on delivery.
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
-
Nice to see the water temp gauge is finally in F.
Mike
-
Senior Member
Are those also buttons on the speedo and tach? I guess eliminating the remote button to cycle through the options?
-
Senior Member
Daughter helped me out on the firewall.
A riot gun is almost mandatory for this build, works great.
Helps having a TV in the garage with Youtube, even though those videos are a little old. The pedal box took me awhile, still not confident the clutch part is right, but I'll go back over it.
Got 3 out of the 4 rear end bolts in.... Cannot get that last one to line up. Had to take a break from it.
Pedal box, brake cylinders and some steering brackets loosely attached. Missing most of the steering stuff so can't do anymore.
The 25th came with a lot of the aluminum panels powder coated, so they were not attached to the car, just loaded in a box.
Starting on the passenger footbox, but it takes awhile to sort out all the panels.
I'm missing so much stuff, that I'm basically just doing a few parts of each section while I wait on the POL list to get shipped.
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Senior Member
First I'm seeing the 25th Anniversary frame color. Interesting. Certainly different than what they put on the 20th like mine. I like the contrast between the frame and panels. Couple of hints. For the IRS diff, I recommend getting the two rear ones started first. Those are the ones that go into tapped holes in the rear diff cover. Just put them in far enough that the threads are started a few turns. Leave the rest out at first. Then add the front ones that go through the bushings and sleeves. Since they're not threaded, a little easier to get lined up and home. Once all are in, then tighten all of them. May not come to this for you, but I sanded tapers on two large bolts and use these to line things up. Then the bolts push right in. Works great.
One other thing. You may find you want to put some type of finish on those bare metal parts. Like the formed steel parts used on the footbox in the pictures you posted. Not easily visible, but those parts will rust. A quick shot with Duplicolor or Eastwood rattle can spray will keep them looking clean.
Last edited by edwardb; 10-10-2019 at 07:19 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
-
Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Papa
It's cool that they dumped the clock in favor of an oil temp gauge! Very nice.
Yup that is nice, I had to do that myself. I like the mode buttons integrated directly into the Speedo and Tach now as well.
-
Ed. Those brackets are now stainless steel.
Do yourself a favor down the road and move the steering bearing to the inside of the foot box. It gives you just a little more room to get the steering shaft all connected.
Mike
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Senior Member
Passenger footbox is drilled and cleco'd. Any reason I shouldn't silicone / rivot it now? Will it block any future assembly process?
Need to order more cleco's too.
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Senior Member
I don't see any reason why you couldn't silicone and rivet the toe box together although not having the floor of the toe box in place does make it easier to hang the exhaust bracket and run the fuel line. But I think about the panel's this way when a car is assembled on the assembly line all the sheet metal is in place on the frame of the unitized car which is a very similar situation to a factory five without the body on. And all the wiring and Plumbing are then put on the car and also the engine is put in place. But the more sheet metal that is in place just makes it a little more difficult to get everything in but not undoable
-
Those are beautiful gauges.
-
Love the color of the chassis! Good luck with the build!
-
Senior Member
I put the peel and stick heat shield on the inside of the footbox pieces before assembly. Made things a lot easier. When I went to install the carpet I found particularly in the drivers side footbox it would have been easier to preinstall some of those pieces as well before assembling them. In general I think the safest practice is to not rivet any panels in place until you really need to. You never know what ideas of mods might pop up or what task might be made easier by not having a panel permanently attached earlier than needed. Looks like you are making good progress!
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
-
2x on the steering bearing on the front of your foot box. I would suggest mounting it on the inside. From the photo, it almost looks like you sandwiched the foot box between the two halves of the bearing, that would be the wrong way if you did. All parts go either on the inside or the outside. The reason you would really like it on the inside is that when you are installing your steering shaft, that extra 3/16-1/4" will be handy, trust all who have gone before...
The build is looking good.....
-
Senior Member
I got some Dynamat ordered that should come tomorrow, I planned on sticking that on when I get it, never thought about the carpet though. I’ll have to look into that, sounds like a good idea. Thanks
Originally Posted by
wareaglescott
I put the peel and stick heat shield on the inside of the footbox pieces before assembly. Made things a lot easier. When I went to install the carpet I found particularly in the drivers side footbox it would have been easier to preinstall some of those pieces as well before assembling them. In general I think the safest practice is to not rivet any panels in place until you really need to. You never know what ideas of mods might pop up or what task might be made easier by not having a panel permanently attached earlier than needed. Looks like you are making good progress!
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
Senior Member
I’ll swap it around today. Thanks for the tips.
Originally Posted by
BadAsp427
2x on the steering bearing on the front of your foot box. I would suggest mounting it on the inside. From the photo, it almost looks like you sandwiched the foot box between the two halves of the bearing, that would be the wrong way if you did. All parts go either on the inside or the outside. The reason you would really like it on the inside is that when you are installing your steering shaft, that extra 3/16-1/4" will be handy, trust all who have gone before...
The build is looking good.....
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Senior Member
Been working on this dang bolt all morning it seems like. I finally got it to start threading, but it will thread about half ways then hit an absolute wall...
I'm guessing the thread is damaged in there? It threads fine for the first part, but I'm going to strip the bolt if I wrench on it any harder.
I hate to take the bolt all the way since it was such a pain to get it in. Maybe try to tap the threads from the other side? Open to suggestions....
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Senior Member
Got the tires mounted, they look good sitting next to the car. Rear tires are a beast.
$100 to have all 4 mounted and balanced...
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Senior Member
Got most of the panels drilled out. Don't plan on rivoting them any time soon.
Swapped around the steering bearing too that was recommended.
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Originally Posted by
delta0014
Been working on this dang bolt all morning it seems like. I finally got it to start threading, but it will thread about half ways then hit an absolute wall...
I'm guessing the thread is damaged in there? It threads fine for the first part, but I'm going to strip the bolt if I wrench on it any harder.
I hate to take the bolt all the way since it was such a pain to get it in. Maybe try to tap the threads from the other side? Open to suggestions....
You may want to run a tap in the hole if you think you have damaged threads.
Dave
-
Senior Member
Originally Posted by
delta0014
Been working on this dang bolt all morning it seems like. I finally got it to start threading, but it will thread about half ways then hit an absolute wall...
I'm guessing the thread is damaged in there? It threads fine for the first part, but I'm going to strip the bolt if I wrench on it any harder.
I hate to take the bolt all the way since it was such a pain to get it in. Maybe try to tap the threads from the other side? Open to suggestions....
If the threads are damaged, don't see how you're going to fix that without removing the bolt. Sounds like you're cranking on it pretty hard and I wouldn't push it any further. With that back cover made from aluminum, likely you'd damage something there before breaking the bolt. Not something you want to do. The picture gives the impression the bolt is angled. You might try backing the other side out some (still leaving threads engaged) and that might loosen the side you're having trouble with. Otherwise IMO remove it and see what's happening. Chase the threads if needed. Don't remember the exact size/pitch, but assume you know it's metric. When it's time to assemble again, I'd recommend putting some anti-seize on the threads. That might help.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
-
Senior Member
Success... Finally
Just to get the bolt in, I had to loosen all the others and remove the front bolt like edwardb suggested. Still took me awhile along with some choice words...
After running to Home Depot and Lowe's looking for a tap, neither had the right size, I ordered it on Amazon.
Then I decided to try it again.
I looked through the inventory sheet and found another bolt that was the same size, threaded it in from the back and it went in no problem up to the point where the other bolt got stuck.
I took a breaker bar and a socket, (probably wasn't a good idea), and turned it forward until it stopped then backed off. Kept going back and forth, probably 30 times, every time it went a little farther, even marked the bolt with a marker to see if it was making progress. Once the bolt turned about two times around, it started to get a lot easier and went all the way in.
I'm guessing I just damaged a couple of the threads while I was trying to line up the holes. Hope to god I don't have to take it out for any reason....
Now I'm kinda stuck, missing so many pieces I can't really do anything else. Gotta go back to work next week, so I won't have as much time anyways.
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Theres really no reason you cant install the floors, back wall ( all 3 pieces) and entire passenger foot box. I would leave the outside wall and both top pieces off of the driver side for ease of wiring pedals and insulation.
Mike
-
Ben-
Congratulations on the start of a great build! I love the photos with the kids; they look like they are very interested in the project, which will be awesome. I wish I could have started mine when my kids were that age!
You are making good progress in spite of the inventory challenges. Keep up the good work. Also, I love the works space you have; looks like you have most of what you need, and it is all nicely arranged.
Thanks for having us along for the build! Enjoy the project, and the time you get to spend working on it with the kids!
Regards,
Steve
-
Senior Member
Brakes showed up today. Got the front ones installed, still don't have any suspension parts for the rear so that'll have to wait.
25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
Gen 3 Coyote
TKO 600 mid-shift
Car
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 4 Likes