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Thread: Meindl Mk IV Build - Graduation

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  1. #11
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteMeindl View Post
    - Although all the backlit gauges go out when we turn off the headlights, the odometer within the speedometer is still lit up. The backlight of the speedometer goes out but the odometer stays on. The voltage gauge, while not backlit, still seems to show a reading other than the needle pointing to the far left, even with the headlights off. This is also the one gauge that doesn't get backlit when we turn on the headlights.
    With Speedhut gauges, the needles seem to wander around randomly when powered off. Then when powered on, typically sweep to zero and then to the appropriate setting, e.g. voltage, temp, pressure, etc. I've not noticed any kind of special sequence is necessary for power up or down. Having not installed Autometer gauges like yours, can't verify whether they do the same thing or not. But one of the big differences is that the Speedhut gauges come with daisy chains with connectors for the gauge lighting and power. So it's pretty simple to clip them all together and then have a single connection to the RF harness for power, lighting, and ground. Once complete, they either all work or none work. For your Autometer gauges, however, you have to do all the individual gauge hook-ups. If your ignition switch is wired wrong or defective, all are going to act the same way. Along with anything else on a defective ACC or IGN circuit. The fact that you have individual issues (speedo trip odometer stays on, voltage gauge stays on, single gauge lighting doesn't work) I'm guessing you have some mis-connections in your dash wiring. That's where I'd be looking once you've eliminated the ignition switch. I'm assuming you followed the RF Chassis Wiring Instructions for the Autometer gauges. There it shows making your own daisy chains and hooking up the individual gauges. Somewhere in there you may have some errors.

    Quote Originally Posted by PeteMeindl View Post
    - The headlight switch shaft doesn't seem to be gripping correctly. I think i'm not supposed to be able to pull the shaft out without pushing the release button on the headlight control housing. But it just comes right out if you pull it. I cant seem to get it to lock in there.
    Typically that triangular shaft clicks into place when you push it in. Maybe twist it to make sure it's oriented properly. The fact that you didn't know it was on is a little strange though. It should have been sticking out and obvious that it wasn't off. I've actually found that shaft is typically a little too long, and even when pushed all the way in it still sticks out a bit. Which I normally adjust by removing the knob and shortening it a bit. So if you're pushing it all the way in without any resistance or locking, it's possible you have a defective switch. But obviously no way to confirm that. You're right though. The button is normally only used to remove it. You pull the knob out to the second (headlight) position where it should stop. Then hold the button down. It should pull all the way out.
    Last edited by edwardb; 10-22-2019 at 04:32 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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