A bit about me. My first car was a ’34 Vicky. with a small block Chevy, about 60years ago. I wanted a hot rod but what I could afford was a Jalopy, with mechanical brakes.
A few years later I ordered my first new car a 1965 Mustang convertible with a high performance 289, four speed; dark green with biscuit leather interior, etc; I left for Marine Corps boot camp the next day secure in the knowledge I would have my dream ride when I returned six months later. Upon my return my car had not come in and the only Mustang available in northern California that day was a red covert. with a six and a 3 speed. I took it. The ladies loved it so it was OK. kinda. This build is something I have been looking for ever since
the build
’35 gen 2 kit, full dress, 18” wire wheels; 347 BluePrint engine, with 5 speed, Maser rear end, Wliewood brakes
The rear end and brakes arrived first, mounted the rear brakes and inventoried my tools as I waited,
the big day arrived along with Hurricane Dorian, we escaped untouched but our delivery truck had to go around the storm and couldn’t make a delivery to the affected area.
Our kit arrived in 30 boxes plus chasses and body parts. did a cursory inventory and separated all bare metal for powder coating and body parts for prepping
Fitted the firewall and marked up for drilling. The two lower pieces don’t seem to fit into place but they do go WITHOUT forcing, its just a real tricky maneuver.
Got coated parts back; and along with chassis put everything in spray booth and gave everything a coat of Awlgrip clear with just a tad of green pearl added
My not-so-silent partner, son-in-law has a yacht refinishing business, so he is getting all the body, fenders etc blocked and primed to be ready when needed.
Floor pan today: tipped frame on side for easy access to bottom floor pans drilled all holes, will install tomorrow if paint is dry. Careful drilling holes -
must be VERY close to leading and trailing edges for both ends to fit. Looks like this is a good time to fit gas tank and fuel lines and brake lines; not clear on line routing ??. Wondering what other chores might be accomplished while frame is on its side
Here we are about six weeks into the build and hope to have a roller tomorrow. Finished the floor pan, while frame still on side did break and fuel lines, installed fuel tank steering and pedal box.
Balance of suspension parts arrived this week, got everything painted and ready for a big build tomorrow, hope to have her sitting on 4 wheels this week end.
Meanwhile my build space landlord, a commercial boat fabricator, used the furnished firewall as a pattern to build a stainless steel (mirror finished) firewall. Its still wearing the protective protective coating but I think it will be spectacular. It was a lot more work to install than I bargained for. If you have never worked with this material you should know it is very hard and heat sensitive. I know more about drill bits and drill speed than I did a week ago.
I have everything photographed and will post pictures soon as I figure that out
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Good weekend got all suspension parts attached - We have a roller
Great family day son, son-in-law and grandson all pitched in for a really great build day
Rear end install - put 2 jack stands at balance point, allowing easy up/down frame movement; rolled rear end under frame on floor jack (tires attached) and just jiggled every thing a bit to get all of the bolts. A slight negative clearance on most fittings make for a challenging assembly and a very precise finish.
Front end went together as expected except lower bolt holes will not work for lower control arm - bolt doesn't clear frame
Do I have to move everything else to the upper mount position?
I hope not. For the intended use as a daily driver, I wanted max ground clearance
Wow a step backwards today. Read in the forum where a button head screw would solve the lower control arm confilct with frame - button head screw still restricted control arm, bottoming out on frame. Hope solution doesn't mean moving all suspension to upper hole and losing the ground clearance. Any solutions out there? Help
Home office told me not to use upper holes for lower control arms, only. I suggested bushing assembly with longer ear to move bolt away from frameIMG_1390.jpg
Home office told me not to use upper holes for lower control arms, only. I suggested bushing assembly with longer ear to move bolt away from frameIMG_1390.jpg
Then what did they say about the bolt hitting? Did they give any guidance? Whats everyone supposed to do?
Home office told me not to use upper holes for lower control arms, only. I suggested bushing assembly with longer ear to move bolt away from frameIMG_1390.jpg
I measured mine from as it sits now and then jacking up till the arms drop enough for the bolt to hit. I need to raise 2.5" inches before they touch the frame. Anyone have any input on if the 2.5" is enough travel so as not to worry? It seams it would have to take a pretty serious bounce to bounce the front end up 2.5" ?
IMO I don't think the lower control arm/button head screw conflict will be an issue when the truck is off the jack stands and resting with tires on the ground. Like bnelson said, we should have 2.5" clearance, but mine is still on jacks, so don't know first hand.
my concern, if you hit a bump at speed and totally unload the front wheel, the suspension will bottom out, I am going for a longer ear on the bushing housing, to move the bolt head way from the frame and let the shocks arrest the travel - not yet installed.
Engine is a 347 BluePrint with 5 speed trans; I really like the way it looks - Thanks Johnny and BluePrint team.
Test fit the engine yesterday, dropped right into the front mounts. Now Have to figure how the tranny bolts up, how to get the headers on, and if the oil filter can be changed once installed (looks very close to steering).
my concern, if you hit a bump at speed and totally unload the front wheel, the suspension will bottom out, I am going for a longer ear on the bushing housing, to move the bolt head way from the frame and let the shocks arrest the travel - not yet installed.
Engine is a 347 BluePrint with 5 speed trans; I really like the way it looks - Thanks Johnny and BluePrint team.
Test fit the engine yesterday, dropped right into the front mounts. Now Have to figure how the tranny bolts up, how to get the headers on, and if the oil filter can be changed once installed (looks very close to steering).
I have the same concerns over clearance and don't want the lower ride height. The upper and lower control arms can go in the upper mount position if clearance isn't a concern but the upper front shock shock mount positions will not clear the shock hat. I'll see what happens when the total weight is on the front end.
with the new lower control bushing shells and button head bolts(¼ x20), the lower control arm hangs about an inch below where the shocks have bottomed out; camber needs serious readjusting (¾ inch or more)
Had to vacate my build space today- a little sooner than I would have liked; sol I went for my first drive, out of the parking lot, a bit before we were ready - no plates (DMV issues) no lights, no windows the dash on the passenger seat etc; no shortage of power, need to bleed the brakes some more - usual stuff; but the steering seemed really imprecise - someone please tell me its just the (lack of proper) alignment. wandered all over the place - I actually stopped to see if anything had come loose? Made it home; now to find an "alignment guy" and a new work space - car port a bit cramped IMG_0143.jpg
Hey Mike, You've chosen the exact motor/trans combo I'm looking at. How's the drivability? Is it twitchy at all (other than the steering). I'm not worried about enough horsepower, I'm sure that will be plenty for me, but I don't want it to be a pain to drive. My plan is to make a daily driver / cruiser but with the power to hit some fun twisty roads up here in the Rockies.
Eaglecook, sorry for the slow reply, still dialing-in handling; so far so good, had a bad steering rack, (FFR replaced); good now. Easy to drive around neighborhood, straight line acceleration is attention getting, looking forward to a real road test. Engine install easiest part of build, so far, looks good, sounds great, In or rout of gas too fast could cause a bit of "twitchey" light weight weight and serious torque just need a little respect.
I hope to do do a Rockies road trip; used to do a lot of trails around Waterton Canyon on two wheels
IMG_0554.jpg The handling seems fine, following a loosen, retighten and adjust everything THEN got a professional alignment by a hot rod front end shop (who knew?), drove around a mostly deserted industrial park Saturday, drove really well; actually pretty exciting without the windshield.
The A/C and door window are working; Spent more time scratching and thinking than doing but enjoying the process. Welded the bed together; slide off the the copper rails and two people can lift it out to service underneath
Going to work on the interior while I log a few miles; then refit the fenders, running boards etc. then take it all apart for paint
Phase 2:
Got everything in place and working, made a list fall the things I wasn't satisfied with and have decided to go back to a go-cart and pull engine/trans.
Plans going forward: 1. Switch to hydraulic TO bearing - Cable stiffness caused problems switched to hydaulic; current homemade slave set-up didn't inspire confidence.(Blueprint Engines now ships 347/TKO 600 with Hydraulic TO bearing)
2. Wiring redo wiring thru firewall and eliminate unused, redundant wires (esp ground), add buss bar / post for ground, +12 and Accessory. 3. Finish drive tunnel, install sound proofing and upholstery, sound system. pictures to follow.
Last edited by VIRGIN MIKE; 01-15-2021 at 05:07 PM.