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I ordered 2 sets of boots from Subaru and then cut them in order to splice them back together, only longer than stock. I used some rubber cement to rejoin the two modified halves, yielding longer boots that fit on both ends. Don’t order aftermarket boots, as they are more like plastic and do not lend themselves to alterations. Hope this helps.
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Hi everybody I completed my bumpsteer. I raised the rack 15/16 of an inch.shorten up the outer tie rod ends.shortened up the inner tie rod ends and machined 2.75” rack extenders. The ride height was set to 5.125”.
The front end alignment done camber .875, caster 5.125, toe 1/16”
Bumpsteer before was bad driving.
extending was up to .395 “ toe out at 1” and
compression was .430” toe in at 2”
After these adjustments I have
Extending .009” out @1”
Ride height 0.00
Compression .025 [email protected]”
Longer boots were found at speed way here are some pictures
I did not drive yet once I get the front back on I’ll test drive
32D8CABE-9D32-4DFA-BB64-5AC77F5D493A.jpeg
5C431EC0-E7A4-4587-89B5-E4B40A2DFF12.jpeg
6548B422-BCD5-4B24-A044-7CEE30CEADA9.jpeg
E0916F05-5BC5-4ECF-B385-E929354E01F3.jpeg
Last edited by DMC7492; 09-14-2019 at 01:37 PM.
Reason: Added photo
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DSR-3 thanked for this post
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Senior Member
Is that an awic reservoir?
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Awic??
Originally Posted by
metros
Is that an awic reservoir?
Not needed it is a 12 gallon fuel tank.
the intercooler runs a little over ambient with the thin 1" AWIC radiator since it sucks air off the road surface it is higher than air temp. tuned for that is not a problem
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Senior Member
Bumping this thread for the benefit of those who don't know.
I would add to the previous "100% required on R"- "100% required on S" also.
I had over 1,000 miles on the car, and had gotten used to it's "sensitive" sometimes even twitchy behavior. No on else had ever driven the car, and I had to wonder who I would trust driving it- certainly not my novice driver son. Getting back to working on (finishing?) the car as the weather got colder I was all set to order separate parts & materials, and make it a project. Then I came back to the ease and speed of ordering the Baer kit from Summit... Next day it was installed! Based on other's notes here, I maxed out the spacers/washers (keeping safely through the nylock nut). Of course, rather than dig out my bump-steer gauge rig (and do more work), I went for a test drive. Wow! It normalized the the car so much, and it is so much better to drive. Most roads around me are garbage, and this car get's thrown around. Now I can deal with these upsets without the car doing it's own thing. Even on what are considered good roads the difference is obvious.
Possibly the best $180 adder to the car, and worth every penny.
818S #332, EZ30R H6, California licensed 01/2019
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Originally Posted by
DMC7492
I cannot wait for an update on this! Looks like a great solution. I have not like how twitchy mine drives on less than perfect roads although I have gotten used to it.
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Update will be next summer possibly, the front end is getting a inner wheel well overhaul.
One other big problem it the slop in the grommet the lower end of the steering column goes through. I had 3/8" slop in the hole for the grommet so off to the lathe to machine a sleeve to weld into the opening that fits the grommet OD. When hitting bumps the bump steer would shock the steering wheel and it would move up down and all around!! BAD!!make one of these and weld into place. my column is from a 2005 WRX.
sleeve.jpg
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Hi everybody, after many hours in the shop. Finishing my front inner wheel wells and intercooler radiator, I was able to take the 818S on the street on the hottest day 94 Fahrenheit.
Testing the Bump steer upgrade from almost four years ago.
The results are spectacular! Hitting some serious bumps and bad roads. All the changes to the ride height and steering rack eliminated the steering wheel from ripping your hands.
I was impressed with the smoothness of bumps but even more impressed when I got it on a smooth new asphalt road and could get into the gas without thinking about the steering!!
What a game changer. Bottom line is if you have bump steer get it corrected and your driving experience will be a great adventure.
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So awesome that you followed up. I hate to see a thread that should answer my questions and it just died. You get 10 internet points today.
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Very nice. As you no doubt concluded, the geometry of the rack and lower arm is all wrong. After a string alignment, I made a jig to measure bumpsteer and used a Baer kit to adjust it. I was able to reduce but not entirely eliminate bumpsteer at all compressions. I did all this during the build and so don't know how it would have driven, but I find it to be very predictable. It tracks well in hard corners with bumps and at high speeds. Your solution is much more comprehensive for sure. Getting the pivot points to line up eliminates most of the BS without the bandaids that I put on it.
Ed